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I received half a dozen Ameritown building fronts for Christmas. The intent is to connect them together for a city backdrop. However, when I cut them free of the shrinkwrap, I found 5 of them have a slight bow top to bottom. The top bows out. What is the best way to get them flat so they stay that way? It's not a lot, but it's noticeable to me.

Chris

LVHR

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In my opinion, here's what might work. Take a 1/4-inch square basswood strip cut to whatever length will not interfere with attachment of the side walls. Use styrene cement to glue it to the inside of the wall at a height above the upper level windows. Use weights or clamps to force the wall firmly into contact with the straight basswood strip. Protect the outside bricks with 1/16-inch or 1/8-inch wood strips if you use clamps. If you use weights, do this on a flat surface and make sure the assembly remains perfectly flat until the glue dries. Styrene cement (in a tube) forms a strong bond between styrene and basswood. Try this on one section first and see how it turns out.

MELGAR

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Chris:
If you intend on attaching sides - I normally attach 1 inch 3/16 thick hardboard with super glue -  the bow will disappear. If you are making a row of fronts simply cut an OGR blank wall into the strips for the two ends of the row (I use Plastruct Plastic Weld).

If not try Melgar's method - just make sure as Melgar says to clamp and leave over night and make sure the wood is thick enough so it stays straight and does not conform to the bow in the wall.

I just read an article in an old Model RR magazine in which the author wanted to deliberately curve a Magnuson wall (not sure if it is the same kind of plastic as OGR). He did so by placing the wall in a pot of hot water - just short of boiling and forming by hand. You can try the opposite by placing the part of the OGR wall with the bow in the water then put it on a flat surface and place a brick or barbell weight on top of it.

Joe

I have this same problem.  I bought #443 furniture factory.  After joining the wall sections together with a polystyrene joiner plate and a piece of H stock to stiffen it, I was ready to join the sides to the ends.  I did a temporary join with masking tape and found that the walls were 1/8" wider than the roof panel, so it just falls through.  Investigation found that both end panels were warped from top to bottom causing them to spread at the top (or the bottom).  I tried heating the panels but it only helped a little bit.  Unfortunately all of the panels have been prepainted and lights added.  After removing the lights it is very likely that dropping them in hot water will damage the paint - so I wasted 3 weeks.  Further, I assumed that the stops on the back of the wall panels would line up the side panels with the end panel - they don't.  The stops keep the side panel about 1/32" too far out.  I will have to cut them back so that the sides fit correctly.

This was a lot of work, so I am disappointed that upon reaching the final assembly stage the parts do not fit correctly and I have to return to square one.  At the same time I bought the #504 dry goods store.  It is a lot smaller and, based on what I know now, I will test fit everything using hot glue before doing any kind of decorating.

The best way to fix this unusual situation is with a little bit of heat, a straight edge and some clamps.

  1. Clamp the warped piece to a straight edge of some kind (wood or steel) to remove the bend.
  2. Place the warped piece in a flat cooking pan.
  3. Pour hot water (160 - 170 degrees) into the pan deep enough to completely cover the plastic.
  4. The heat will allow the plastic to "relax" and naturally straighten out.
  5. Leave the plastic in the hot water for about 10 minutes so it gets completely heat-soaked.
  6. Remove it from the water and remove the clamps.
  7. It should remain straight on its' own now.
@Rich Melvin posted:

Jim, when did this happen?

Rich, bought them last year. One of everything, some had a 1" bow on each end. I ended up make fronts out of most of the warped ones. Bought the hotel and it was the worst of the bunch, I just had to get creative with it. Nothing is perfect.  Just disappointing and tons of extra work. If you want to discuss it more I can email you. Don't was to dis Ameritowne on the forum. Thanks for asking.

Last edited by MONON_JIM

Rich:
I did a lot of transfer molding of microelectronic packages during my engineering career. This stuff is probably injection molded but the concept should be the same. For warp as bad as what some are saying above it sounds like the parts were separated from the mold while they were still too hot (ie soft) and/or allowed to cool too rapidly. I never encountered a 1 inch warp. All warp pieces I have worked with always were straightened out with clamps and glue.

Dan:
From your email it sounds like you taped the walls together and noticed the warp. I have had this issue too but if I clamp (takes the warp out)  and glue the walls together and let them sit over night the glue keeps them straight. I use Plastruct Plastic Weld.

As Melgar stated using a 1/4 inch thick square wood rod and clamping overnight should take out the warp. Don't use plastic rods. My experience has been when taken out of the clamp the rod conforms to the bend in the wall.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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