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I really enjoy your threads Pat.  

Between all thats going on these days, and the this don't work, that don't work, Mth is closing etc etc on the forum.

Its nice to hear someone say. No worries, we can fix that and its gonna be better than ever. Can't wait for the finish product videos. Interesting and positive, can't beat it.

On top of that.  Its also nice change from, what are you preordering? and whats the best type of grease to use? etc threads.

Last edited by RickO

Excellent Thread'... I have the original very heavy Williams Hudson, from the 80's.  I researched all the competitors , and after a couple of years, I finally found one on the Bay at a fair price.  It sat in a glass case in a LHS for many years.  The traction tires were rotted away.  Too difficult for me to change them, so I removed them completely.  Polished her up a bit a little oil, etc.

She pulls 15 heavies plus, on  3 and 4% grades with ease.  Minimal slippage at very slow speeds.

It's a matter of beauty verses power.  I prefer the power'...

Last edited by Quarter Gauger 48
@harmonyards posted:

You’ll be pushing it to its limits on a grade....my biggest issue with these stock is how much heat is generated pulling 6 heavyweights for any sustained time....and I run on the water level, so my track is level, no grades...and it was run on generous O81 & 090 ....after 30 minutes of run time, the quirky problems begin to show themselves....not acceptable to me....my run sessions can last for hours on end, and I don’t want jerky action.....watching 6 heavyweights bang together, jump back & forth is no fun for me...I’d be curious how your Kline does on that 2.5 grade after an hour of running with a real train behind it...10-12 heavyweights is the norm for all my Hudsons/ Pacifics....for many hours on end....my train room is on the main level of my house, so I can run trains all day long.....my other Pittman powered Hudsons by Lionel & MTH have no problems with very long trains, 6,7 or even 8 hour trips...I build 90% of my locomotives, so I build them for low amp draws, plenty of power, and strong drivetrains....I have ERR equipped ex-Pulmor Mohawks with thousands of hours logged....so well built, service intervals are 500 hours...and when Oct- Jan rolls around it doesn’t take long to get those hours racked up...I can entertain guests, and run trains, I can cook, and enjoy the trains, I can be anywhere in my house, and enjoy the trains,...I’m the exception, not the norm.....

Pat

I guess I must have a rare good one then.... My 5344 will pull 7 k-line heavyweights  and two rea cars for a couple hours around the club layout at a reasonable pace without breaking a sweat.  She stays pretty cool to the touch most of the time.  I keep her very well maintained and lubricated on all moving parts. Only issue she ever had was a bad cherry switch.

Last edited by Brian DeFazio

I guess I must have a rare good one then.... My 5344 will pull 7 k-line heavyweights  and two rea cars for a couple hours around the club layout at a reasonable pace without breaking a sweat.  She stays pretty cool to the touch most of the time.  I keep her very well maintained and lubricated on all moving parts. Only issue she ever had was a bad cherry switch.

You must have, most suffer from anemic performance on home layouts, with 5-6 heavyweights, heating up and doing quirky things....it’s a known fact these Hudsons have a very tiny motor, and are problematic when they heat soak.......it’s a 50/50 thing...some are satisfied, others not...just out of curiosity, what’s your club’s radius on the curves?...

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

You must have, most suffer from anemic performance on home layouts, with 5-6 heavyweights, heating up and doing quirky things....it’s a known fact these Hudsons have a very tiny motor, and are problematic when they heat soak.......it’s a 50/50 thing...some are satisfied, others not...just out of curiosity, what’s your club’s radius on the curves?...

Pat

Our tightest curves are O72, but I usually run her on the outside main that is O96 i think.

Updated progress on Larry’s Kline Hudson...the last report saw the completion of the marrying of the chassis to the boiler shell......we were just in the beginning stages of mock up.....now that things are falling into place like I want them, we’ve begun coloring, and chemically blackening the necessary parts...we’ve stripped the paint off the MTH drivers, and treated them to some black oxide as well as the frame sections that were trimmed in the fitment process...I’ve left the new mounting screws in their zinc finish, so y’all can see where I mounted the MTH chassis to the new stub plate under the boiler casting....we stripped and painted to match the grey MTH steamchest, and added the correct valve and rod gear that Larry & I discussed recently.....we knocked that out of the park!...we completed the snifter valve install with detachable plumbing, making it easier for Larry to service if the need arises....parts from the MTH pilot are combined with the Kline pilot to make the best looking pilot assembly......now we can really see what things are shaping up to look like....fit & finish are looking over the top...next order of business is to modify the front pilot truck with more scale sized wheels, and add the rear truck...that’ll complete the rolling chassis ....once we have a smooth rolling chassis, it’s on to the inside......

PatA248D116-EF58-447A-8A4A-AEA21084ABAA2CDF983B-F4E8-42B4-92D7-04B6D2F155655916B2C8-0D4E-4110-8D80-8C7B10D62201DB8A2880-49CE-40F0-9CDF-68FC53683D0854760436-9061-485D-B8C1-E4C3E6B483C1

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  • A248D116-EF58-447A-8A4A-AEA21084ABAA
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  • 5916B2C8-0D4E-4110-8D80-8C7B10D62201
  • DB8A2880-49CE-40F0-9CDF-68FC53683D08
  • 54760436-9061-485D-B8C1-E4C3E6B483C1

Here’s some more updated progress on Larry’s Kline Hudson....

I haven’t had much time in the RR shop due to work, but I did manage to get done some work tonight....here’s Larry’s Hudson in full roller status....we’ve fitted the Kline rear truck to the MTH chassis, and built a front truck with much more appropriately sized pilot wheels....front truck parts are MTH frame, Lionel wheels, and Kline brake detail...

Larry’s pretty much out of the woods as heavy fab work is concerned, so now we’ll turn our attention to power and electronics.....beautiful model so far....we’ll add some cool minor details, like a better headlight lens, reflector and bulb as we go along....but now it’s time to begin work on the inside.....

PatCBBA5585-5402-4D42-B232-F6F4EF2C6E1F7C686B4D-7520-4DFD-886A-E0F41C5D52948A805C09-EA3A-4187-8D09-F00043E0A4A1

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Images (3)
  • CBBA5585-5402-4D42-B232-F6F4EF2C6E1F
  • 7C686B4D-7520-4DFD-886A-E0F41C5D5294
  • 8A805C09-EA3A-4187-8D09-F00043E0A4A1

Pat

Looks great!  What product do you use to chemically blacken the rods and rims?

Thanks,

Mike

Mike, the rods remained the chrome finish, after Larry & I discussed what the final product should look like....the drivers and drive block were treated to a bath in Caswell’s cold black oxide solution .....great product, easy to use, and affordable .....they have a wide range of black oxide products, for different metals. This is the product for steel, but it works great for zinc, brass, and other metals....except stainless, but they have a special oxide that does that.....take a look at their website, it’s easy to navigate, and you can purchase directly from them, no minimum orders....

Pat

Pat,

To blacken the drive wheel rims, do they need to be removed or can they be left on?  What is your process for this?

No....no need to remove wheels.....process is quite simple, if you plan ahead, and prepare the chassis.....the chemical is a water base, so you’ll want to remove everything from the chassis, but the drivers.....the chassis MUST be spot on clean!..no grease, no oils no nothing.....all the grease must be removed from the gear well.......I use parts washer solvent first, and remove all the grease and oils...then I’ll use compressed air to blow the chassis dry and look for grease spots or oil....repeat till free...blow dry, then give the chassis a bath in dawn soap with a tooth brush, this is to get it past water break, while in the soapy water, I’ll use a scotchbrite pad to lightly scuff the shiny rim flange, this prepares the shiny chrome surface to accept its fate and turn black.....after you’ve dunked it for a couple minutes, pull the chassis out, rinse, and wipe the rim area to check and see if the acid has “bit” ....repeat till desired darkness...then rinse with hot water, blow dry, and soak the chassis with a penetrating oil, like WD40 or similar..this does two things, it’ll displace any remaining moisture, and it’ll soak in to where the acid began the blackening process.....and give your work piece a good blackened luster....

Pat

Pat, Wow, it’s looking fantastic, I’m so happy. When you add all the detail parts, deck plate, curtains, the ERR systems, the Gunrunner Johns smoke Chuffer System with the MTH smoke unit, Awesome.... This is Exciting. Thank you for doing such a thorough job on making this a world class Hudson. Harmonyards, a great place to make your dreams come through. Happy Railroading Everyone, it’s a fun time in the hobby of model trains. Thank You Pat.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
330-757-3020

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