Skip to main content

John, check on back in the north country. Not too bad up here, full on spring. Snow was thankfully long gone by the time we arrived.

I am using good old 63/37 rosin core solder, which has always worked very well for me. Not sure what would be any better? And I have only been soldering stuff for close on to 60 years or so. 

Maybe a quick dab with TixFlux just before soldering might help, I may give that a try.

Rod

Rod, those cars look great.  

I have eight PCB's (third layout design) populated with components, tested, ready to go but who knows when I will get around to installing them.  I still have the PE disappearing hobo car to convert, concerned about light leakage around the movable hobo.  Was planning to convert my Lionel Lines Irvington cars next, but after seeing your cars above, maybe I need to do a non-silhouette set of cars instead.

GregM, I hear you, and thanks for the comments. I think cars with so called "detailed interiors" make the most sense, I don't think I'll bother with silhouette cars, but there's certainly nothing wrong with that. Time will tell. After the first car I think I'm down to under an hour per car, at least for standard cars. Definitely a dome car takes longer, as does an observation. The worst one was the vista dome car because I had to cut out the entire center section of the clear plastic dome window insert, to make space for the led strip to mount up against the underside of the top. I did this quickly with a dremel cutoff wheel, then it took forever to file all the rough edges down. But in the end it worked well.

A few more pix:

IMG_1868IMG_1869IMG_1876IMG_1877

Attachments

Images (4)
  • IMG_1868
  • IMG_1869
  • IMG_1876
  • IMG_1877

I did a set of IC silhouette cars and they looked great compared to the two bulbs that they came with. I have since only collected detailed interior cars and sold all the silhouette car sets. I have yet to do these cars which have incandescent stream lighting and really look pretty good without LEDs. But it would be nice to have constant power.

Rod Stewart posted:

After the first car I think I'm down to under an hour per car, at least for standard cars. Definitely a dome car takes longer, as does an observation. The worst one was the vista dome car because I had to cut out the entire center section of the clear plastic dome window insert, to make space for the led strip to mount up against the underside of the top. I did this quickly with a dremel cutoff wheel, then it took forever to file all the rough edges down. But in the end it worked well.

We're going to have to get you to step up your game.   I can whack out an MTH premier car in about 15 minutes, it takes me longer to seat all the passengers that it does to wire the LED lighting.  The MTH RailKing and Lionel cars actually take me longer, usually you have to deal with some extra wiring issues.  Here's a set I did recently for the RK MTH Crusader.

Passenger car LED lighting (Again)

You'll see the dome car and observation cars take some special handling as you indicated.  I didn't hack the top, I went with seat level lighting in the dome car.

All my small wiring is #30 wirewrap wire, works great and is easy to hide and route where you need it.

John, I am hoping I will be able to speed it up a bit after I get a few more under my belt (passenger cars that is! )

First impressions running though; great! No flickering and plenty of light. My passengers can now see what they are doing. They might be a little too bright, so I may crank them down a bit someday. And I need to add the marker light leds to the observation car, thanks for those ideas in the thread you pointed to John. I am also pleased to report that with the offshore parts I ordered after the first batch, and my bulk board order from AllPCB, my cost per board is now down to $1.03 all in. Well not including my time of course.

My wiring from the module to the led strips is very light, about 30 AWG I believe. I ordered a bunch of micro JST 2 pin male/female connectors referenced earlier in this topic; about 10 cents a pair. They are perfect. So far I have been able to adapt the wiring already in the car to supply power from the rollers to the board input, after clipping off the unneeded light wires. So that's kind of handy. Works just fine. All in all it has been a good experiment so far.

Rod

Here is a front/back pic of the bulk boards: The pads are pre-tinned; yahoo!

IMG_1885

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_1885
Last edited by Rod Stewart

That this thread is revived today is a little spooky.  This morning I dug out the PRR Baby Madison passenger cars I had started adding passengers to and converting to LED lighting last year. The observation car was the only car I had finished by the time the weather had become warm enough to start fishing, so the rest were packed away for another day.  Well another day finally came, lol.

Turns out I didn't have any pictures of the PCB with the PTC on the board.  I am working (very slowly, I will admit) on upgrading some cars so I just took the pictures below, they are straight from the camera, no editing.

Bare board - Component side.

PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 1

 

Bare Board - Solder Side  (CR1 & CR2 are the center roller connections)

PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 2

Components installed - view one

PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 3

Components installed - View two

PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 4

 

Board being installed

PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 5

 

Double sided tape - board hopefully will stick to roof out of sight

PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 6

Attachments

Images (6)
  • PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 1
  • PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 2
  • PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 3
  • PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 4
  • PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 5
  • PCB Ver 1.1 - Pic 6
Last edited by GregM

Here is a link to the board on OSH Park.

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/Ah9bQ5RM

 

This is just a quick BOM. 
This first section contains the actual parts I ordered from Digi-Key.
Digi-Key Part Number
Manufacturer Part Number
Manufacturer
Description
DF005M-ND
DF005M
ON Semiconductor
BRIDGE RECT 1PHASE 50V 1.5A 4DIP
 
‎LM317TGOS-ND‎
‎LM317TG‎
ON Semiconductor
IC REG LIN POS ADJ 1.5A TO220AB
 
P5168-ND‎
‎ECA-1VM471‎
Panasonic Electronic Components
CAP ALUM 470UF 20% 35V RADIAL
 
490-4808-1-ND‎
‎PTGL07BB220N0B52A0‎
Murata Electronics
PTC RESET FUSE 250V 130MA RADIAL
 
277-1722-ND‎
‎1984620‎
Phoenix Contact
TERM BLK 3POS SIDE ENT 3.5MM PCB
 
277-1721-ND‎
‎1984617‎
Phoenix Contact
TERM BLK 2POS SIDE ENT 3.5MM PCB
 
 
This section contains Digi-Key parts comparable to items I purchased from other sources, primarily Amazon.
Digi-Key Part Number
S27QCT-ND 
Manufacturer
Stackpole Electronics Inc
Manufacturer Part Number
CFM14JT27R0
Description
RES 27 OHM 1/4W 5% CF MINI

Digi-Key Part Number
3296W-201LF-ND 
Manufacturer
Bourns Inc.
Manufacturer Part Number
3296W-1-201LF
Description
TRIMMER 200 OHM 0.5W PC PIN TOP
 
Although there is a place for it on the PCB, I did not install the DCS choke (L1 on the PCB).  I believe an appropriate part number is listed somewhere in this multipage thread.
 
***ETA***  If I researched this correctly, here is an appropriate part for the DCS choke.
 
Digi-Key Part Number
535-14428-1-ND 
Manufacturer
Abracon LLC
Manufacturer Part Number
AICC-02-220K-T (5K/REEL)
Description
FIXED IND 22UH 285MA 1.35 OHM TH
 
Hope this helps.
Last edited by GregM

Add Reply

Post
OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
330-757-3020

www.ogaugerr.com
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×