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As has been noted by others on the Forum, notably GRJ and Vernon, Lionchief engines have a particular problem with sounds stopping or cutting out due to a poor wiring/drawbar/tether design which can allow a wire to become disconnected or unsoldered after repeated use and the sounds suddenly stop working, even though the train runs and otherwise works flawlessly.

Unfortunately, the disconnected wire is typically covered by factory shrink wrap or insulation so that you can't see it and figure out the issue, which can lead to an incorrect diagnosis of a board failure or similar situation.

Sure enough, the sounds on the Frozen II train I bought for my grandaughter last year suddenly stopped working last week but, thanks to the Forum, I was able to cut some of the insulation away and there was a disconnected wire (the nearest black wire) which I soldered back in place and put some black electrical tape over.

Needless to say, the Forum is a great resource.

FROZEN TETHER

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I personally use marine grade heatshrink with hot glue on the inside. The logic behind this is, the glue helps strain relief the wires, but more importantly, is possible to remove later- just in case the wire does fail or a repair is needed. A drop of alcohol does not dissolve the hot glue, but does break the bond between it and anything else. My concern with more permanent solutions, they pretty much are a one and done- the next repair now you have to replace the entire thing.

And, again, my concern is, the design and strain relief- the likelyhood of a related but different failure of the wire is semi-likely in the long term life of the loco- especially if it keeps going around the small loop or oval of track. That straight, then curve, then straight, then curve just beats these to death over the lifetime of the loco.

It's not high strand count flex rated wire, it's not a properly designed joint for flexing, and even when we do these repairs and make the mods, the stress is still there- just moved a few mm down the wire at most.

My experience with dried liquid electrical tape is that it's fairly easy to scrape off should another wire fail and I have to go back and make a similar repair again, but the hot glue and shrink wrap also works.

You're right, of course, about the repair itself. We're merely treating the symptoms that show up as a result of poor design and the underlying root cause remains.   

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