Another Project...

Saw that one and wondered about it....

Cool

@Erik C Lindgren posted:

Cool

I hope so...and that it's not beyond my skill set.  

BTW, am a big fan of your work and enjoyed greatly your recent O Scale Convention video; especially liked seeing that young fellow at the controls of your layout...

Mark in Oregon

The only way to build your skill set is challenge it.  And ask questions.  Can't wait to see what you do.

Gene Anstine

@grfd59 posted:

The only way to build your skill set is challenge it.  And ask questions.  Can't wait to see what you do.

Gene Anstine

Thanks Gene.

Since I already have a "stock" B&O example, I'm planning on having some fun with this...

Mark in Oregon

This old thing arrived today.

Will post photos of the engine and tender later, but for now I wanted to show some snaps of the box it came in. A wood re-enforced cardboard box that's 20" long:

Here's the inside:

...and the "packing tape"(?), which gives a quick identity as to where it came from...

More fun stuff to play with...

Mark in Oregon

An overview of the rest of it...

This example has the 5/8" motor (the one in my other Ten Wheeler is the full 1"); after a quick cleaning, it runs nicely...

Needs lots of small parts (screws, etc.) so I'm afraid I'll be relying on some of you kind souls to help me out here...again.

Mark in Oregon

You really had me intrigued.  I thought you had captured the AN Mountain!

@bob2 posted:

You really had me intrigued.  I thought you had captured the AN Mountain!

Sorry...just another 4-6-0.  

Here's the one you supplied some critical parts for...

...speaking of which... ...

Mark in Oregon

@bob2 posted:

You really had me intrigued.  I thought you had captured the AN Mountain!

...email sent. Thanks Bob.

Mark in Oregon

Here's a question for you All Nation experts:

On my other Ten Wheeler, the motor is attached to the frame like so:

On this example, the slightly smaller (5/8" stack) motor is mounted this way:

You can see the (2) mounting brackets are in reverse order, with the L-shaped lower piece fore of the large upper piece. The motor is now 1/8" (the thickness of the upper bracket) closer to the front of the frame. It runs fine this way, but...

...now the boiler/cab can't seat itself down properly, as it comes into contact with the upper front of the motor!

I'm completely stumped; there's no other way for the motor to attach to the frame (and still keep the worm in alignment),  so what's a fellow to do?

I await your responses, comments and one-liners...

Mark in Oregon

You will have to show us why you think the worm won't stay in alignment.  If you move the worm on its shaft and shim the big brass bracket forward will it work?

Looks like a fun project.  I'll enjoy seeing the progress on it. 

Jonathan

Thanks; although I'm not sure how much "progress I'm gonna make on this one...

Bob2

There is 2 11/16" between where the (2) screws pass through the base plate, up through the frame and into the mounting brackets. The front hole is where the worm end of the bracket is tightened; the rear hole is for the screw that holds down the motor end. I don't see any way to adjust any of that...and theoretically, I shouldn't have to, right?  My other example (with a slightly larger 1" motor) worked as designed...and those (2) holes are in exactly the same place.

I actually tried to move the lower bracket back up against the motor (like in my other one), but then the holes didn't line up for the rear mounting screw to pass through the base plate and up into the bracket.

In spite of the fact that these models can run really well (as my other example does), I'm not a big fan of the way these things were designed, what with the very rigid motor/bracket/coupling. There's no "play" in any of it, so you're kinda stuck with how it's laid out; unless I'm missing something...and I'm all ears...

Mark in Oregon

PS: there's currently an example on eBay and it's had a can motor installed. If someone on this Forum buys it, I would LOVE to see how that was done...

There is nothing to stop you from moving the motor aft.  Longer screws and spacers are all it takes.  You may have to lengthen the shaft between motor and worm, but that too is fairly trivial.  If it is a rigid straight shot, then a sleeve, soldered in place, is a ten minute exercise.  If it is two piece, a longer hose . . .

I will get wheels, rods, and screws underway in the next couple days.

@bob2 posted:

1. There is nothing to stop you from moving the motor aft.  Longer screws and spacers are all it takes.  You may have to lengthen the shaft between motor and worm, but that too is fairly trivial.  If it is a rigid straight shot, then a sleeve, soldered in place, is a ten minute exercise.  If it is two piece, a longer hose . . .

2. I will get wheels, rods, and screws underway in the next couple days.

1. I tried that: it put up a helluva vibration, so I figured that wasn't an option...

2. Thanks! I appreciate all your help...as always.

Mark in Oregon

Okay...I took a deep breath, and tried it again.

I used some more slot car spacers, and these bought me the 3/16" I needed to be able to get the boiler/cab on correctly; thank you "bob2" for the words of wisdom.

This is in much worse condition then I originally thought; have had to repair a lot of stuff and re-tap quite a few holes as many of the original screws were missing.

Good thing I enjoy doing this kind of stuff.........

Mark in Oregon

Long before I became dangerous at the work bench I bagged the Atlantic variation of this by AN.  Noticed in a complete teardown was  VARNEY  cast into many of the zamac parts, hinting of its pedigree.  Without much revival work it returned to its stomping grounds on the Toronto Model Railroad Club layout.  They graciously gave it a successful test run on my request.  My initiation into 2 rail O and still in my hands.

Best of success with your revival progress.  Perhaps there's a post-war renaissance happinin' ?

Bruce

These things can be a springboard to enhanced knowledge.  Drilling and tapping is a skill that crosses over, and really aids my aircraft radio installations.

Wait 'till you graduate to Lobaugh, and learn about quartering, gear mesh, fitting side rods, re-gearing - opens up an entirely new world.

Bruce

Photos, perhaps?

Bob2

I suspect I'm a long ways off from a Lobaugh.

I built many steam locos in HO over the years, but working in O is an entirely different animal. There's mass and weight involved that you don't experience in the smaller scales. Dunno if that's good or bad...

Mark in Oregon

Sure thing, Mark.

Here's shots during a repaint about 20 years ago.  Mods done by a previous owner, such as the shaved steam dome were kept as is.  Today she's all black and undecorated.

Bruce

Very, very nice Bruce.

Bet it runs well, too...

Mark in Oregon

@Strummer posted:

Jonathan

Thanks; although I'm not sure how much "progress I'm gonna make on this one...

Bob2

There is 2 11/16" between where the (2) screws pass through the base plate, up through the frame and into the mounting brackets. The front hole is where the worm end of the bracket is tightened; the rear hole is for the screw that holds down the motor end. I don't see any way to adjust any of that...and theoretically, I shouldn't have to, right?  My other example (with a slightly larger 1" motor) worked as designed...and those (2) holes are in exactly the same place.

I actually tried to move the lower bracket back up against the motor (like in my other one), but then the holes didn't line up for the rear mounting screw to pass through the base plate and up into the bracket.

In spite of the fact that these models can run really well (as my other example does), I'm not a big fan of the way these things were designed, what with the very rigid motor/bracket/coupling. There's no "play" in any of it, so you're kinda stuck with how it's laid out; unless I'm missing something...and I'm all ears...

Mark in Oregon

PS: there's currently an example on eBay and it's had a can motor installed. If someone on this Forum buys it, I would LOVE to see how that was done...

I bought it the 4-6-0 with the can motor and newer gearbox.  I'll post pictures when it arrives.

@Tom D. posted:

I bought it the 4-6-0 with the can motor and newer gearbox.  I'll post pictures when it arrives.

Terrific!! Can't wait to see how it was done...thanks!

I see the same seller has listed another one; mostly in pieces, but in pretty good condition...

Mark in Oregon

Another update...in case anyone's interested.

Thanks to a fellow Forum member, I now have some of the missing pieces to this puzzle.

As I mentioned previously, whoever built this originally used a very ham-fisted approach, as most screw holes are buggered up and are needing to be re-tapped for a larger size. Case in point: the main side rod, which has the hole for the screw to connect it to the rod that runs to the rear driver; these were originally tapped for a (I think) 0-80. I've had to re-tap these for a 2-56, which explains the large, rather unsightly screw you see here:

I will use some gun-blue on that screw to "tone it down" a bit. The good news is that, so far, it runs...at least up on blocks.

To be continued...

Mark (still) in Oregon

PS: This photo was taken by an automatic camera, on a nature trail not much more than a mile from my house...

You're really in for a challenge - hopefully you can make something good out of this. Lots of missing and broken parts...

By the way, I have some parts too. Not much, but maybe something that can help you out. Strangely, I have quite a few specific parts, but others I have none of - like 4 eccentric cranks, but no other drive gear parts. Send me an email if you still need anything.

While I am at it ( I am charging a car battery and have a couple minutes to kill) here are my smaller AN locomotives - or at least some of them:

This one doesn't run yet, and is still getting the "level" treatment.  I have since fixed the trailing truck, but no cab rivets yet.

Here is my ten-wheeler - take all of these with a grain of salt.  Quality around here runs from horrible to pretty darn good.

Yard crew cannot keep anything on the track.

@Johnbeere posted:

You're really in for a challenge - hopefully you can make something good out of this. Lots of missing and broken parts...

By the way, I have some parts too. Not much, but maybe something that can help you out. Strangely, I have quite a few specific parts, but others I have none of - like 4 eccentric cranks, but no other drive gear parts. Send me an email if you still need anything.

Thanks John

I will put together a list...

Very nice Bob. I like the spoke wheels on the Atlantic...

Mark in Oregon

And yet another update...are you getting bored yet?

Got the engineer's side together: the member who supplied the other needed parts didn't have the missing rear side rod piece...so he (any guesses?) made one out of brass!

After a bit more tweaking, filing, tapping, etc., here it is, running at about 5.5 volts:

The balance of the valve gear was so mangled that I'm just gonna run this as is for the time being.

Now back to the equally butchered boiler/cab; still a lot to do on it.

As I've said before; it's a good thing I like doing this kind of stuff. 

Mark in Oregon

Mark asked if I minded being identified.  I told him sure, if he cancelled the check he sent.

I believe in paying it forward.  So many folks have helped me along the way - when I have parts that I don't need I am delighted to give them away.

Not only that, but the Greek won't let me accept large payments for small stuff.

So Mark - write "void" on #15389.  And I have no problem with sending more if I have it laying around.

But it is the thought that counts - so thanks for being so generous!

Mark, nice work. Bob thanks for helping so many in the hobby.

Lee G.

Lee

Thanks. It's proving to be a challenging but fun project.

Bob

If not for your help, I would have 2 non- running Ten Wheelers. You are as generous as you are skilled. I thank you yet again.

Mark in Oregon

Just another update.

My dad was an antique dealer, so I have a long running fondness for all things "vintage". Stuff pre and post war was typically so well built that if not abused, will last seemingly forever. I have a few pieces he left behind: a Hamilton Beach milkshake machine, Royal typewriter, Western Electric telephone, etc. Easy to work on (if needed) and almost indestructible...

Have done some clean-up on the boiler/cab (still haven't gotten a headlight) and shot a quick coat of paint; for some reason, I decided on a satin finish instead of flat.

Took down the mechanism (again!) re-set the drivers and it's running better than it should, given the terrible condition it was in when I first got it:

I'm still "flying by the seat of my pants" when it comes to this kind of stuff, so I'm happy to have gotten this far. A shout out to "Johnbeere" for supplying a decent (useable) lead truck.

Tender next...

Mark (still) in Oregon

Definitely looks a lot better than it started out, glad you're taking the time to save it. The picture you posted is pretty small, maybe you could try posting a higher resolution one of it standing still?

Maybe you could use a Precision Scale headlight on it? It shouldn't be hard to find one that closely matches the original.

I also have a fondness for old stuff - I like how well built everything is and the stories they can tell. I've even completely went through a 1937 Underwood Noiseless typewriter that I inherited. It's a really impressive machine, at 42 pounds. What I've been told is that it was used by my great grandfather to help veterans fill out paperwork - I don't remember the specifics, but really interesting. Unfortunately, it had been through a basement flood, so it was really filthy inside and out - so I decided to take it apart, down to every little piece, clean everything, put it back together and get it working again. I'm certainly never doing that again - but I'm glad I saved it. It's still not 100% done, but it's very close.

I am going to hide this here - not a good photo.  I hate, hate, hate doing Diesel style handrails - but here is this evening’s feeble attempt:

Gee...I think that looks pretty good!

Mark in Oregon

@Johnbeere posted:

1. Definitely looks a lot better than it started out, glad you're taking the time to save it. The picture you posted is pretty small, maybe you could try posting a higher resolution one of it standing still?

2. Maybe you could use a Precision Scale headlight on it? It shouldn't be hard to find one that closely matches the original.

3. I also have a fondness for old stuff - I like how well built everything is and the stories they can tell. I've even completely went through a 1937 Underwood Noiseless typewriter that I inherited.

1: Thanks! I will try, but the camera in my phone sucks...

2. Just ordered one this afternoon...

3. Good on ya! That's pretty impressive.

Mark in Oregon

@bob2 posted:

I am going to hide this here - not a good photo.  I hate, hate, hate doing Diesel style handrails - but here is this evening’s feeble attempt:

Bob,

I share your feelings about diesel style hand rails. A job that is tedious and when complete they are fragile. On a different note would you please contact me back channel I have an AN Atlantic from Al Kamm’s collection and would like to get a set of drivers complete with the axle gear. Thanks

Lee Gustafson

Nice Lobaugh Mountain needing lots of work sold for $178.  Anybody here capture it?  Looks like a nice project (Ialready have four, so did not bid).

Saw that: not me...

Mark in Oregon

PS: what!?! You already have 4!?! I'm sure you've shown them here before, but "once is never enough..."

It needed new driver tires - right up my alley.  Time to let others have the goodies.

And yeah, ok - I would be feeling guilty about soaking up bandwith with repetitious photos, but then most OGR participants repeat photos routinely, often multiple times in the same thread! (ugh)

The Lobaugh Mountain is a prewar kit, available in SP or MoPac.  I have never seen the MoPac, but have heard that they exist.  Mine vary from the MT-1 configuration with cab over the firebox to the MT4 with cab behind the staybolts, and at least one has the very difficult to make "skyline casing."

This one is my first - very expensive.  Tender is a combo - Lobaugh sides and Adams castings.

This one from Art Haelig - Max Grey tender, and cab back behind the firebox stays. Color scheme from Bob Church's fine book.

Skyline casing and genuine Lobaugh tender.  Unpowered.  My paint.  Well, all of it is my work.

This one was a gift from Hal Sharkey - he had finished the front, and I needed to do the back - cab, running boards, etc.  Wood block tender (Yes, I have plenty of spare Adams tenders)

And finally, the latest from a very expensive kit - That is a scratch tender.  I think that since this photo, all piping has been added, along with handrails etc.

I mention the Adams tender - I find the casting sets in various conditions, and press my own sides.  Very pleased with the outcome.  They are close to 17/64 scale, while the Lobaugh variant is closer to 1/4" scale.

I have several other Mountain types - a Seaboard, several All Nation, one Max Gray, a Scalecraft, and a convertible ATSF, which is right now a 2-10-2, but can be converted back with three screws!  I have to have better photos of my Adams tenders, but this will have to do for now.

Let me sneak this in - I have three candidates for our MTJ process, and fear I have forgotten a few.  The process is semi-complex, because of a "bot" problem.  Remind me if you do not hear something by November.

Here is a much better shot of the Adams 160-C tender.  Guess which prototype for the locomotive?

All beautiful models...of course.

Hmm ..that last one is a puzzle: due to the tender, my first thought is Espee, but did they even have any Berkshire types?

Thank you for showing your work; it's always an inspiration. Approximately how many engines you reckon you have built?

Mark in Oregon

@bob2 posted:

And yeah, ok - I would be feeling guilty about soaking up bandwith with repetitious photos, but then most OGR participants repeat photos routinely, often multiple times in the same thread! (ugh)

The Lobaugh Mountain is a prewar kit, available in SP or MoPac.  I have never seen the MoPac, but have heard that they exist.  Mine vary from the MT-1 configuration with cab over the firebox to the MT4 with cab behind the staybolts, and at least one has the very difficult to make "skyline casing."

This one is my first - very expensive.  Tender is a combo - Lobaugh sides and Adams castings.

This one from Art Haelig - Max Grey tender, and cab back behind the firebox stays. Color scheme from Bob Church's fine book.

Skyline casing and genuine Lobaugh tender.  Unpowered.  My paint.  Well, all of it is my work.

This one was a gift from Hal Sharkey - he had finished the front, and I needed to do the back - cab, running boards, etc.  Wood block tender (Yes, I have plenty of spare Adams tenders)

And finally, the latest from a very expensive kit - That is a scratch tender.  I think that since this photo, all piping has been added, along with handrails etc.

Bob,

Impressive work. I always enjoy your photos and models. Thanks.

Lee Gustafson

@bob2 posted:

And yeah, ok - I would be feeling guilty about soaking up bandwith with repetitious photos, but then most OGR participants repeat photos routinely, often multiple times in the same thread! (ugh)

... ...

Mark in Oregon

FWIW:

I've always liked the look of high-mounted headlights, so I thought I'd try a PRR style on this decidedly non-PRR engine:

I think it makes this look like a "short line" engine; too bad it's not a 2-8-0...

...any thoughts/opinions?

Mark in (wet) Oregon