Another Project...

Saw that one and wondered about it....

Cool

@Erik C Lindgren posted:

Cool

I hope so...and that it's not beyond my skill set.  

BTW, am a big fan of your work and enjoyed greatly your recent O Scale Convention video; especially liked seeing that young fellow at the controls of your layout...

Mark in Oregon

The only way to build your skill set is challenge it.  And ask questions.  Can't wait to see what you do.

Gene Anstine

@grfd59 posted:

The only way to build your skill set is challenge it.  And ask questions.  Can't wait to see what you do.

Gene Anstine

Thanks Gene.

Since I already have a "stock" B&O example, I'm planning on having some fun with this...

Mark in Oregon

This old thing arrived today.

Will post photos of the engine and tender later, but for now I wanted to show some snaps of the box it came in. A wood re-enforced cardboard box that's 20" long:

Here's the inside:

...and the "packing tape"(?), which gives a quick identity as to where it came from...

More fun stuff to play with...

Mark in Oregon

An overview of the rest of it...

This example has the 5/8" motor (the one in my other Ten Wheeler is the full 1"); after a quick cleaning, it runs nicely...

Needs lots of small parts (screws, etc.) so I'm afraid I'll be relying on some of you kind souls to help me out here...again.

Mark in Oregon

You really had me intrigued.  I thought you had captured the AN Mountain!

@bob2 posted:

You really had me intrigued.  I thought you had captured the AN Mountain!

Sorry...just another 4-6-0.  

Here's the one you supplied some critical parts for...

...speaking of which... ...

Mark in Oregon

@bob2 posted:

You really had me intrigued.  I thought you had captured the AN Mountain!

...email sent. Thanks Bob.

Mark in Oregon

Here's a question for you All Nation experts:

On my other Ten Wheeler, the motor is attached to the frame like so:

On this example, the slightly smaller (5/8" stack) motor is mounted this way:

You can see the (2) mounting brackets are in reverse order, with the L-shaped lower piece fore of the large upper piece. The motor is now 1/8" (the thickness of the upper bracket) closer to the front of the frame. It runs fine this way, but...

...now the boiler/cab can't seat itself down properly, as it comes into contact with the upper front of the motor!

I'm completely stumped; there's no other way for the motor to attach to the frame (and still keep the worm in alignment),  so what's a fellow to do?

I await your responses, comments and one-liners...

Mark in Oregon

You will have to show us why you think the worm won't stay in alignment.  If you move the worm on its shaft and shim the big brass bracket forward will it work?

Looks like a fun project.  I'll enjoy seeing the progress on it. 

Jonathan

Thanks; although I'm not sure how much "progress I'm gonna make on this one...

Bob2

There is 2 11/16" between where the (2) screws pass through the base plate, up through the frame and into the mounting brackets. The front hole is where the worm end of the bracket is tightened; the rear hole is for the screw that holds down the motor end. I don't see any way to adjust any of that...and theoretically, I shouldn't have to, right?  My other example (with a slightly larger 1" motor) worked as designed...and those (2) holes are in exactly the same place.

I actually tried to move the lower bracket back up against the motor (like in my other one), but then the holes didn't line up for the rear mounting screw to pass through the base plate and up into the bracket.

In spite of the fact that these models can run really well (as my other example does), I'm not a big fan of the way these things were designed, what with the very rigid motor/bracket/coupling. There's no "play" in any of it, so you're kinda stuck with how it's laid out; unless I'm missing something...and I'm all ears...

Mark in Oregon

PS: there's currently an example on eBay and it's had a can motor installed. If someone on this Forum buys it, I would LOVE to see how that was done...

There is nothing to stop you from moving the motor aft.  Longer screws and spacers are all it takes.  You may have to lengthen the shaft between motor and worm, but that too is fairly trivial.  If it is a rigid straight shot, then a sleeve, soldered in place, is a ten minute exercise.  If it is two piece, a longer hose . . .

I will get wheels, rods, and screws underway in the next couple days.

@bob2 posted:

1. There is nothing to stop you from moving the motor aft.  Longer screws and spacers are all it takes.  You may have to lengthen the shaft between motor and worm, but that too is fairly trivial.  If it is a rigid straight shot, then a sleeve, soldered in place, is a ten minute exercise.  If it is two piece, a longer hose . . .

2. I will get wheels, rods, and screws underway in the next couple days.

1. I tried that: it put up a helluva vibration, so I figured that wasn't an option...

2. Thanks! I appreciate all your help...as always.

Mark in Oregon

Okay...I took a deep breath, and tried it again.

I used some more slot car spacers, and these bought me the 3/16" I needed to be able to get the boiler/cab on correctly; thank you "bob2" for the words of wisdom.

This is in much worse condition then I originally thought; have had to repair a lot of stuff and re-tap quite a few holes as many of the original screws were missing.

Good thing I enjoy doing this kind of stuff.........

Mark in Oregon

Long before I became dangerous at the work bench I bagged the Atlantic variation of this by AN.  Noticed in a complete teardown was  VARNEY  cast into many of the zamac parts, hinting of its pedigree.  Without much revival work it returned to its stomping grounds on the Toronto Model Railroad Club layout.  They graciously gave it a successful test run on my request.  My initiation into 2 rail O and still in my hands.

Best of success with your revival progress.  Perhaps there's a post-war renaissance happinin' ?

Bruce

These things can be a springboard to enhanced knowledge.  Drilling and tapping is a skill that crosses over, and really aids my aircraft radio installations.

Wait 'till you graduate to Lobaugh, and learn about quartering, gear mesh, fitting side rods, re-gearing - opens up an entirely new world.