Does anyone know if the Polar Express 0-6-0T Set ( 2022090) have a special sound set with Polar Express announcements?
@gunrunnerjohn posted:As near as I can see, this may not be a flaw with the engine. There's a lack of continuity of that inside rail on the "out" path of the switch, and the little wheel is dropping into that hole.
I decided to sacrifice another fuse to get a good video of my LC+2.0 BEDT Docksider derailing while attempting to negotiate the curved route of my brand new Atlas O-54 switch. As you can see, the lead outside driver jumps the track at the frog!
This sweet little engine performs perfectly in every other way... both electro-couplers work smoothly, smokes great, sounds are good, and has no other tracking problems.
Since a lot of us use Atlas O track, I’m back to my original question: Is this problem just with my engine or do all of the new Dockside Switchers derail when approaching an Atlas O switch from the direction shown in my video?
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@VThokie Steam Fan posted:Does anyone know if the Polar Express 0-6-0T Set ( 2022090) have a special sound set with Polar Express announcements?
At 8:45, there is crew talk.
keep in mind this is just a LC engine not 2.0
Smokes differently from 2.0 0-6-0. appears to have a puffer smoke unit
Sorry forgot to add YT link
All the LC (not plus) had puffer smoke units.
I just received my pennsy switcher today, everything seems to be working like it should, i am pleased with it so far. i was nervous reading all the negative experiences. The only thing i can complain about was two little paint knicks on the front.
The only set Lionel listed the pulling power of the engine http://www.lionel.com/products...t-steam-set-6-30183/ The paper catalog lists it pulling power at ten cars, and that is probably with light wight, none scale cars. My own testing says yes, with one industrial rail gondola on the way to ten. More cars than ten and it strains, and nine is already pushing it. I have recommended to Lionel they list the pulling power of their engines, so they last longer. Most Original Lionchief Plus engines are sugested for about 40 cars, with the NW2 being about 20, I discovered that in a demonstration and sales video years ago.
The small 0-6-0 should probably pull fewer than the max 10 listed of the set above given it has an even smaller motor. I have the original, with revision one motor, the hobby shop cleaned the board, and it went back to working fully. The 0-6-0 really is only a 4-6 normal size car engine, and that is cars with lubricated or lightweight with needle point axles, much like the starter sets its predecessors sold in.
I was thinking of getting the Rio Grande one, glad I picked up the old convention NYC one.
Once running the engine with tmcc, is there anyway to shut the engine down without turning the power off to the tracks. I am still new to using the tmcc system.
AUX1 / "5" is the shutdown sequence.
Thank you GRJ, there are so many things you can do with the remote, It’s hard remembering everything haha
I've had my BEDT for over a week now and ran it for a few minutes every day. I love this little steam switcher. Great price, appearance and very good performance pulling light loads using either the Universal remote or the LC App. It could pull heavier and longer consists, but I don't want to risk over-stressing and burning out its tiny motor.
Arnold
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Something amazing has happened with my BEDT. It has already more than paid for itself!
My BEDT has been selling scrap metal on my railroad, offering hot chocolate to all its customers:
(Lionel Premium Hot Chocolate Smoke Fluid)
Such a sweet little switcher. LOL, Arnold
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Mine has definitely been on switching duty on the test layout. It fulfills the roll of breaking down and assembling trains very well.
I unpacked my Lionel LC+ 2.0 0-6-0T switcher locomotive (BEDT #15). Although it looks fine and has no flaws in the paint or details, in my opinion, it doesn’t run well on my layouts with Atlas O track and switches.
Based on comments in this thread, the first thing I did was to measure the distance between the insides of the wheels (1-3/32 inches) on the new engine and compare it to the same dimension on my older conventional version (1-1/16 inches). The wheel tread and gauge are about 1/32 inches (0.031 inches) larger than on my conventional version, which runs without any problems on my layouts.
First, I ran the engine on my 12’-by-8’ layout with Atlas O-72 switches and curves. There was no problem running through the straight path of the switches, but the engine was not mechanically smooth, and there was a noticeable pounding noise on the curves that lessened on the straights.
Then, I ran the engine through the curved paths of the Atlas O-54 switches on my 10’-by-5’ layout. The engine “jumped” as it crossed the switches and, on the third circuit, jumped so badly that it almost derailed. At that point, I concluded that this engine could not be operated reliably on the O-54 layout, where I had planned to run it.
I haven’t decided whether to return the engine to the dealer or contact Lionel for some sort of a repair, although I’m not sure they have identified the source of the issues that I see. Right now, I have an engine that I would run only on the O-72 outer loop of one of my layouts and only straight through the switches. Not really acceptable to me.
MELGAR
Melgar, what is the distance between the outside of the flanges where the metal tire meets the flange? It needs to less than 1.25”.
Pete
@Norton posted:Melgar, what is the distance between the outside of the flanges where the metal tire meets the flange? It needs to less than 1.5”.
Pete
Pete,
I'll try to check it with a caliper but I don't have the number right now. I took the inside measurement because it was easier to make a direct comparison with the conventional engine.
MELGAR
FWIW, I skywired power to my main loop on my yet to be completed layout and ran both of my LC+ 2.0 Dockside switchers around the whole shebang. They have to go through a number of switches, both in the thru and out positions to make the trip. The only issue they had was losing power on the double-slip switch, and that's a known issue if you don't have the relay switching working on the extra rails, it's not indicative of an issue with these units.
@Norton posted:Melgar, what is the distance between the outside of the flanges where the metal tire meets the flange? It needs to less than 1.25”.
Wheel tread at intersection of tire and flange measured with micrometer at front driving wheels:
LC+ 2.0 engine = 1.282 inches
Older engine = 1.245 inches
Difference = 0.037 inches
I think that due to the rail cross section, the Atlas O solid track is more sensitive to inaccuracies of wheel gauge than tubular track, but the problem on the switches may be due to the design of the frog.
MELGAR
There's the problem. O scale track gauge, not P48, is 5 scale feet. Thats 1.25" in 1/48. Those wheels are set wider than the track. These wheelsets can removed fairly easily. Remove all the rods then the bottom plate that holds them in place. Then just press them together with a press, vise, or C clamps. 1.24 - 1.245" is a good number.
Pete
@MELGAR posted:I unpacked my Lionel LC+ 2.0 0-6-0T switcher locomotive (BEDT #15). Although it looks fine and has no flaws in the paint or details, in my opinion, it doesn’t run well on my layouts with Atlas O track and switches.
Based on comments in this thread, the first thing I did was to measure the distance between the insides of the wheels (1-3/32 inches) on the new engine and compare it to the same dimension on my older conventional version (1-1/16 inches). The wheel tread and gauge are about 1/32 inches (0.031 inches) larger than on my conventional version, which runs without any problems on my layouts.
First, I ran the engine on my 12’-by-8’ layout with Atlas O-72 switches and curves. There was no problem running through the straight path of the switches, but the engine was not mechanically smooth, and there was a noticeable pounding noise on the curves that lessened on the straights.
Then, I ran the engine through the curved paths of the Atlas O-54 switches on my 10’-by-5’ layout. The engine “jumped” as it crossed the switches and, on the third circuit, jumped so badly that it almost derailed. At that point, I concluded that this engine could not be operated reliably on the O-54 layout, where I had planned to run it.
I haven’t decided whether to return the engine to the dealer or contact Lionel for some sort of a repair, although I’m not sure they have identified the source of the issues that I see. Right now, I have an engine that I would run only on the O-72 outer loop of one of my layouts and only straight through the switches. Not really acceptable to me.
MELGAR
Melgar, thank you for this very useful information! Your measurements confirm my crude check of wheel gauging by holding a couple of my other engine's drive wheels up against my LC + 2.0 Docksider. It appears that the overly wide gauging is forcing my engine's lead driver onto the wrong side of my Atlas O-54 switch's frog, leading to derailment.
Last week, I emailed my video of my Docksider derailing to Dave Olson in Lionel's engineering dept. He replied that Lionel had only tested the engine on Fastrack. So this morning, I emailed my derailing video to Bill Serratelli at Atlas O technical support to see if he's aware of this little engine's problems with their O-54 switches. I have yet to hear back from Bill, that is, assuming that he is still at Atlas.
I just noticed a new post from Norton about narrowing the gauge of the driving wheels. This would appear to be a viable solution if it's as easy as just carefully squeezing the wheel sets in a vice... It'll depend on how those wheels are bound to the axles.
Bill Serratelli is still at Atlas O. I contacted him about a week ago, but I don't think the problem is with the Atlas O turnouts. My Lionel Reading 0-6-0T #1251, made in 2004 with properly gauged wheels, has no problem on the Atlas O-54 switches.
MELGAR
@MELGAR posted:Bill Serratelli is still at Atlas O. I contacted him about a week ago, but I don't think the problem is with the Atlas O turnouts. My Lionel Reading 0-6-0T #1251, made in 2004 with properly gauged wheels, has no problem on the Atlas O-54 switches.
MELGAR
I’m surprised that Lionel didn’t test pre-production samples of this little engine on Atlas O track/switches. I think a lot of us hi-railers use Atlas O track... my LHS says that they sell a lot of it.
In any event, I’m going to try to squeeze the gauging down a bit on mine.
@Peter C posted:I’m surprised that Lionel didn’t test pre-production samples of this little engine on Atlas O track/switches. I think a lot of us hi-railers use Atlas O track... my LHS says that they sell a lot of it.
In any event, I’m going to try to squeeze the gauging down a bit on mine.
Just be aware that pressure should be applied to the area around the axle inside the spokes, not at the rim to avoid damage to the spokes. I would start out by using a rod or large pin punch that is larger than the axle diameter. If that doesn't bring the wheels to spec, then use a small cylinder like a ratchet socket to allow the axle to push through a bit.
Pete
@BillYo414 posted:It also has a weird gate to it as it rolls where it's like a bike with two bent rims. I will say it seems like the chuffer can't keep up at high speeds. It's like the speaker is clipping but it happened at all volumes. Could be me.
I'm experiencing the same issues related to the sound and the wobble with mine and it seems like some others are as well.
I've been running mine with the Cab 2 remote and the chuff sound is ok up to a speed of "11" on the remote. Any faster than that and the sound gets really choppy and cuts out to the point where it sounds ridiculous. As others have stated, it makes sense to run it at slow speeds because it's a switcher, and I don't plan on running mine at fast speeds, but it is still disappointing that it does that.
As for the wobble, it reminds me of the issue with the Whistle Steam Polar Express loco (6-18754) that was released some years ago that waddled like a duck down the tracks. Does anyone remember that? Could it be a similar issue?
I'm curious if this is normal for all of them or did some of us just get a few bad apples?
-Scott
I think the small wheels and sloppy rod fit makes all of them wobble a bit. I just got my Lionel order in with rods and rod screws to try on these, so when I get a chance I'll update the thread.
@Scottmaster1121 posted:I'm experiencing the same issues related to the sound and the wobble with mine and it seems like some others are as well.
I've been running mine with the Cab 2 remote and the chuff sound is ok up to a speed of "11" on the remote. Any faster than that and the sound gets really choppy and cuts out to the point where it sounds ridiculous. As others have stated, it makes sense to run it at slow speeds because it's a switcher, and I don't plan on running mine at fast speeds, but it is still disappointing that it does that.
As for the wobble, it reminds me of the issue with the Whistle Steam Polar Express loco (6-18754) that was released some years ago that waddled like a duck down the tracks. Does anyone remember that? Could it be a similar issue?
I'm curious if this is normal for all of them or did some of us just get a few bad apples?
-Scott
Call me lucky I suppose.
Mine still runs great. No wobble at any speed. Smokes like a champ and sounds are fine. Couplers fire. Have run it with the App and Universal Remote. I don't do Legacy.
I am running mine on Fastrack and no problems in limited testing.
Got my Lionel order and replaced the drive rods on one of my engines with the older conventional model's drive rods. Here's a picture that illustrates the difference, I have no idea why the huge holes in the new rods! The rod screws fit the conventional model's rods perfectly, all I replaced was the rod itself.
It runs much better than it did with the stock rods. I"m towing my little magnetic debris car to see if I can collect any staples, track cuttings, etc. 
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Could you furnish a part number?
Steve
No more derailments... SUCCESS with Atlas O-54 switches after narrowing the gauge of the driver wheel sets by 1/32 inch! MELGAR’s measurement of the gauge on his older conventional Docksider is the key. I removed the driver wheel sets from my new LC + 2.0 Docksider and VERY CAREFULLY squeezed them in a vice so that the distance between the insides of the wheels is reduced to 1-1/16 inches. I used heavy cardstock as padding in the vice. As you can see from my video, this sweet little engine now glides through my Atlas O-54 switch at both slow and fast speeds. The engine does “waddle” a bit more due to the narrower gauging.
Thank you to MELGAR and everyone else for helping to solve my derailment problem!
Peter
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@Rescued Trains posted:Could you furnish a part number?
Steve
@Peter C posted:No more derailments... SUCCESS with Atlas O-54 switches after narrowing the gauge of the driver wheel sets by 1/32 inch! MELGAR’s measurement of the gauge on his older conventional Docksider is the key. I removed the driver wheel sets from my new LC + 2.0 Docksider and VERY CAREFULLY squeezed them in a vice so that the distance between the insides of the wheels is reduced to 1-1/16 inches. I used heavy cardstock as padding in the vice. As you can see from my video, this sweet little engine now glides through my Atlas O-54 switch at both slow and fast speeds. The engine does “waddle” a bit more due to the narrower gauging.
Thank you to MELGAR and everyone else for helping to solve my derailment problem!
Peter
Coincidentally, I reduced the gauge to about 1.24 inches on my 0-6-0T switcher engine today. It now gets through my Atlas O-54 switches but it vibrates and wobbles as it runs, even on straight track. The wobble is evident in both videos, especially in reverse. I'm going to order a set of rods with smaller holes that fit the conventional engine and see if it improves. Photo shows how the wheel flange contacted the switch frog and was pushed up – causing a bump or derailment prior to regauging.
MELGAR
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Thank you GRJ for the info.
Steve
@MELGAR posted:Coincidentally, I reduced the gauge to about 1.24 inches on my 0-6-0T switcher engine today. It now gets through my Atlas O-54 switches but it vibrates and wobbles as it runs, even on straight track. The wobble is evident in both videos, especially in reverse. I'm going to order a set of rods with smaller holes that fit the conventional engine and see if it improves.
I don't see any significant wobble with the new rods. I was worried that maybe they were correcting some drive lockup issues with the sloppy fit, but I ran it in both directions for a spell and didn't see any hint of that happening.
I’m glad to see that it wasn’t all my imagination that the rod swap with my older LC unit helped smooth things out 
As for the wobble after snugging up the wheel gauge... the wheel faces aren’t perfectly flat so if you simply squeezed them in a vice they may not be on the axle straight any longer. It’s probably not much less straight, but it doesn’t take much to cause a wobble.
That said, the real BEDT 15 (aka “Thomas”) hunts back and forth in the gauge quite noticeably when running it. This is basically the norm for a locomotive with no lead truck. I used to go home at the end of a weekend of running it feeling sore like I had been working out at a gym from standing all day while constantly getting bounced around over the course of 8 hours.
Has anybody tried bushing the rod holes? A washer/shim/spacer that's 4mm OD, 2mm ID, and perhaps 1mm thick ought to do the trick. I haven't been able to find that size on eBay.
Why bother, the correct rods are only a couple bucks each!
@gunrunnerjohn posted:The rod screws fit the conventional model's rods perfectly, all I replaced was the rod itself.
It runs much better than it did with the stock rods.
Thanks gunrunnerjohn for posting the results and the information for the replacement rods! Looks like it definitely helps. My order is on the way.
Are you having any issues with the sounds cutting out at higher speeds? I'm just wondering if it's normal or there's something wrong with mine.
Scott
The chuffing goes nuts at higher speeds, I think that's the nature of the beast, they all do it. I suspect the tiny wheels and 4-chuffs are overwhelming the sound file.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Why bother, the correct rods are only a couple bucks each!
I have one of the original docksiders as well, and even those rods have some slop. I was wondering if something a little tighter was possible.
I ordered the side rods from Lionel. Cost of the 0-6-0 got higher. $5 each for the rods, $10 shipping plus tax.
My dockside seemed to run fine but I hate things that are not correct so this should make this correct.
