Hello all

 

Was thinking of getting one of these new Lionchief sets for my brother who has Down Syndrome for Xmas.

 

But as he does have the tendency to take a remote like that an just go full, I was wondering if there was any way to prevent that?

 

Was even wondering if not natively perhaps I can open up the remote an do something to the speed dial inside to block it from full movement?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

 

Last edited by WBFLine
Original Post

Set the track voltage to less than full speed.

 

The Lion chief loco cannot run faster than track voltage allows.

Interesting, in some of the limited amount of info I had been seeing on the system, they seem to stress things like, so long as it has 18V, it will work. Kinda thought from that it needed that full amount or it wouldn't.

 

But is this not the case?

 

So would I just then say use a CW-80 and set the output for the top speed I wanted, an that will work?

Originally Posted by WBFLine:

Interesting, in some of the limited amount of info I had been seeing on the system, they seem to stress things like, so long as it has 18V, it will work. Kinda thought from that it needed that full amount or it wouldn't.

 

But is this not the case?

 

So would I just then say use a CW-80 and set the output for the top speed I wanted, an that will work?

In the below example the throttle on the remote is set around 2/3 power, the transformer for the downhill run is set at 14 volts and the uphill run at 18volts.

 

 

I know you can operate the LionChief Polar Express with all functions as low as 7 volts. I don't know if it's advisable but it can be done.

This next video is of the preliminary power tests I did when I first got the set and was trying to determine if I would build the double spiral display for Christmas.

 

 

Hope this helps answer your questions

Last edited by Matthew B.

Thanks

 

Yeah, I have one of those left over from a old PE set that I got years ago that started this whole thing

 

Thanks again guys

Hey guys

 

Thought I would just update that I finally got the Victorian Christmas set I was looking at, an have used it with the old CW-80 from my old PE kit at reduced voltage, an it works like a charm.

 

Currently I have only setup the oval that comes with the kit, but am able to run it at even 5V, an it chugs along nicely at full throttle.

 

Actually, when I had just the engine on there, was able to get it to run around at only 4.5v.

 

One thing I didn't think about though is that at 5V, the lights for the cars aren't even visible. Oddly the engine light is OK, but can't even see the cars lights.

 

For this to happen I had to bring it up to about 6 to 7 an then they were just visible, an 8 or more for the to be just full on but dim.

 

But at that voltage an at full throttle, the engine fell right over on its first curve.

 

Perhaps I can get bulbs that are a lower voltage rating?

 

 

PS, just to mention, I am not using the smoker and doubt I ever will.

Last edited by WBFLine
Originally Posted by WBFLine:

Hey guys

 

Thought I would just update that I finally got the Victorian Christmas set I was looking at, an have used it with the old CW-80 from my old PE kit at reduced voltage, an it works like a charm.

 

Currently I have only setup the oval that comes with the kit, but am able to run it at even 5V, an it chugs along nicely at full throttle.

 

Actually, when I had just the engine on there, was able to get it to run around at only 4.5v.

 

One thing I didn't think about though is that at 5V, the lights for the cars aren't even visible. Oddly the engine light is OK, but can't even see the cars lights.

 

For this to happen I had to bring it up to about 6 to 7 an then they were just visible, an 8 or more for the to be just full on but dim.

 

But at that voltage an at full throttle, the engine fell right over on its first curve.

 

Perhaps I can get bulbs that are a lower voltage rating?

 

 

PS, just to mention, I am not using the smoker and doubt I ever will.

You may want to look into creating some type of casing for the remote that could restrict the remote from going to the full throttle position. From what I've read in other posts there could be a risk of the remote breaking by a tendency of children trying to turn the knob beyond it's full throttle positions.

Yeah, I had thought about playing with something like that. All in all my brother is pretty good with that kind of thing, if something is working, he won't force it.

 

He just has a hard time grasping the concept of how varying the amount an possibly going to far, could then lead to it going to fast an thus having a wrong outcome.

 

He tends to treat stuff that is variable more like a light switch as he doesn't have the capacity to understand the mechanics enough.

Last edited by WBFLine

Once you convert to LED's, they'll look pretty good at reduced voltages even without going to the trouble of constant current regulation.

 

Yeah, I had thought about going LED, but am pretty sure those kits go for between 10-20 bucks a car and will require a bit of work to install. At least more then popping in two bulbs.

 

Basically this is going to be Xmas gift that might be in use for about 3 days or so.

 

So kinda seems like more money an trouble then is worth it.

For the Thomas series Lion Chief I just run them all off a Lionel Transformer and turn the power down so the kids cannot run them off the rails.

The sounds work fine as do the trains.

 

Noted a Lionchief Polar Express set at another layout the kids had the train running at warp speed most of the day.

 

Keeping the power lower saves the engines from wearing out or flying off the track. Pity Lionel did not just gear them lower so they have a bit more pull but less warp speed, when the remotes are handed out to the kids.

 

One member mounts the remote to a board to allow adding a throttle stop easier. I look for the bookmark. He had the remote apart with photos. Perhaps we can come up with an idea for a stop to prevent full rotation.

 

Edit: here's the link, this may give some ideas Your Thomas Remote will break

Last edited by Moonman

Just to throw this out there, I thought about the stop idea at first, but then thought about going with a varying voltage idea too an how with that, this gives you a pretty easy way to deal with things like, what if you add more cars to the consist, what if you take some out, what if you change the layout and add a dif track setup.

 

Have to keep in mind that most of these kits do not have engines that have a speed control, so if you want it to run at a speed that is nice, but not to fast, but then can still power through the curves without almost stopping, you have to be able to adjust for that.

 

All in all I can think of many things that might increase, or decrease the need for a little higher voltage, or lower. An with having say something like the CW-80, all that can be done with just a tweak of the lever.

 

But if you do something more solid like say put some stops in the remote, or fix it in some other way, all that is going to be a bit harder.

 

For each person I guess its a choice based on what your needs are, but I kinda like the varying voltage idea better as it makes adjustments an what ever little tweaks I might want to make a lot easier. Plus is a lot simpler an doesn't mean I have to hack up the remote or devote a whole weekend coming up with some contraption.

Last edited by WBFLine

The LionChief + locomotives have speed control, so throttle adjustments in curves is not needed for the most part.

 

What Henning's Trains does for the store layout is block the lever on the CW-80 controlling each loop with a screw tapped into the case.  It limits the speed to less than derailment speed. 

 

FWIW, I've found that the LionChief PA Flyer set will handle the O36 curves at full throttle without derailing pulling the set cars.  The kids regularly crank it up full throttle around the tracks.

I was testing my 10th Anniversary Polar Express this weekend and tho I feared it would depart the rails at near full speed it did not. It still slows in the curves and I was somewhat dismayed at this, I expected cruise control for the price. Tho in looking back, it has the same electronics as much lower cost engines, just different sounds. I suspect the Movie company is making the price difference to use the name.

 

There is another way to slow the engine. Add pairs of diodes (wired back to back in parallel) in the wire to the motor. You get a 0.6VDC drop for each set. so 4 pairs will drop the motor by 2.4 VDC, 6 pairs will drop it 3.6V and so on. This lets you keep the lights in the cars on and not jump the rails at max speed. There are numerous threads about this on the forum if you need more details.

This also lets the kids twist the control farther to get less speed and get used to trains running at less than warp speed while your trains have the power to pull longer consists.

Last edited by Russell

Yeah, I don't really know 100%, but in looking at things, looks like the individual engines all are LionChief "Plus" which for all the ones I checked, they have speed control. But the RTR sets just have LionChief, an don't.

 

Don't know if this is what the "Plus" is to mean, but anyway.

 

Can say that for my set, the Victorian Christmas set. Which is basically a re-sticker-ed Hogwarts, that I ran it at 18V at full throttle, an it barely made it once about 70% around a full 180 curve of the O-36 track it came with, an it flipped right over an completely off the track. Didn't derail, just rolled sideways right off from centrifugal force. I think all in all this engine with its fairly high wheels an other designs, probably has a high COG.

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