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The more dimension you give me the better it will look. See the wire frame model above.

This model is just a loft of circles along a curved line. So the more circle diameters and distance of the circles from one end the better.

Email is fine. This CLEAR resin on my printer if polished slightly is perfectly clear. The only truly clear material for plastic 3D printing
Polishes to near optical transparency

I have made post war locomotive head light lens from a clear plastic rod on several occasions.

I place a small piece of flat tin can in a vise and heat with a soldering gun or iron.  I then press a 1/2 inch length of 1/8th or 3/16th diameter clear plastic rod perpendicular on the hot tin, on the opposite end from the soldering iron,  until the rod mushrooms out a about 1/16 inch all around the end of plastic rod.  I let cool and saw to the length needed to fit in the locomotive head light hole.


Alan has been a super nice guy doing this. Thank you again so much!

Nice to know there are such good folks in our hobby today.

I mentioned in an email to him that it is ironic that my 1939-1942 prewar switchers are getting technological parts help, by way of Alan and his 3-D printer, in the year 2021.


Tom, Alan, you may want read more about light pipes and how to make them most efficient. To begin with outer surfaces should be polished and cylindrical. Also gentle curves are better than abrupt bends. The more irregular the more light escapes before reaching the other end. Just google the subject and you will find many guides on what makes efficient guides.


I was able to test Alan's 3-D craftsmanship tonight and he did an awesome job with my fractional measurements from my metal yard stick. I just needed 10 minutes of minor filing and 3 careful whacks of my trusty hammer and it was properly positioned!

The pictures speak for themselves...


Alan, once again, thank you very much! 



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Last edited by PRR8976

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)

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