Atlas F3A

They look like g scale ones. Could u cut and join it right at the narrow stripe? Else it would show thru I'm guessing. 

Good idea Joe, glad I asked!  I was even giving thought to painting them on, but yellow is hard to do on top of green, PLUS my hands are as steady as a youngsters.

Not sure how the tapered/curved nose stripes would come out but it just may work!

In this case, I would paint the yellow and use decales for the two thin (red?) strips.

Charlie

Bob,

What I have done in the past is cut one stripe the right width and install. Come back with another the opposite way. You cannot see the overlap that way and it makes the yellow a lot deeper and there is not hint of translucence. Solvaset the first layer real good before applying the second. Cut out the nose stripes with out the red and after they are doubled add the stripe. Use Microscale blue label and it will let you curve the red just right.

Malcolm

Thanks Malcolm for that suggestion about the nose stripes.

I have some leftover stripes I made for an old, short RailKing F3 that might be the correct width, will have to check.

Bob, I would echo Malcolm's advice if you want to try and overlap decals.. Otherwise the other idea I had was cut the yellow the correct width and find new red stripes for top and bottom.  I've tried to cut decals before where I would leave the red stripe at the top and cut the decal in the yellow to correct width and then try and match the red stripe for the bottom.  Sometimes works, and sometimes doesn't... A lot of time easier to remove the red striping altogether and find your own.      Certainly could mask and paint the stripe as well as Charlie suggests...

Like Malcolm's suggests depending on how happy you are with the color and "opaqueness" of the yellow stripe that really leads down a particular path. 

Thanks Mike!

I've tried overlapping before and ended up having to paint over the decal to make it opaque.

I may try painting the yellow stripe as it's between the banded side seams of the engine and gives me a good straight line to work with, then cut off the red stripes and apply them.

Almost...done.

I had to paint the stripes on, not as nice or as easy as decals but at least it looks like a SAL F3.

I got some low-profile fans from P&D installed, made new square filters for the sides, installed the 2-rail pilot and right now have the Atlas coupler on the rear, a Kadee on the front (that's too high, I've ordered more Kadees including offset shank), and numbered it for my favorite 4030.  i also added the angled step that runs just below the stripe on the fireman's side between the nose and the ladder (I think I might paint the edge yellow to make it stand out).  I'm missing a lift ring and the ring that goes on the handgrab on top on the fireman's side.  Getting those wire screens and windows off was a PITA, but I did it without having to order any new parts.

Here's some photos, along with my newly acquired GN boxcar and SHPX tankcar from Petersen Supply (also awaiting Kadee couplers):

Here's the real 4030, slightly faded and altered (no skirting):

Very nice job. She looks great from here Bob. 

Thanks Phil!  Maybe I'll leave it out in the sun for a few days to tone down that new paint sheen

I can't even imagine trying to put decals like that on an engine.  For me to try to use decals,  it would be a complete abortion. 

You accomplish that task, you're a better man than me.  I just finished painting a GN W-1 electric using paint, lightest first (ie yellow), mask the yellow, then painted the orange, again mask off orange and last, the green.  Only time I use decals is for the heralds.

sam

Sam,

I tried it once and it folded over on itself that I felt like I had wrestled a bear by the time I got through, even the skinny stripe was a PITA.

Atlas has yet to offer the F3 in SAL colors, I was hoping they would but I got such a good deal on this engine I had to take it.  Took 4 weeks but what else have I got to do (besides finish all the other projects, RR and non-RR)?

Mike DeBerg posted:

Bob, I would echo Malcolm's advice if you want to try and overlap decals.. Otherwise the other idea I had was cut the yellow the correct width and find new red stripes for top and bottom.  I've tried to cut decals before where I would leave the red stripe at the top and cut the decal in the yellow to correct width and then try and match the red stripe for the bottom.  Sometimes works, and sometimes doesn't... A lot of time easier to remove the red striping altogether and find your own.      Certainly could mask and paint the stripe as well as Charlie suggests...

Like Malcolm's suggests depending on how happy you are with the color and "opaqueness" of the yellow stripe that really leads down a particular path. 

Because there is extra material, when making the second cut, have extra on both and cut thru both so that they will mate perfectly. I would do that on the top stripe but that's just a guess. In reality, somethings work better and some don't.

I was also wondering about applying a red automotive pin stripe tape on top and bottom? Maybe they'd be too thick?

All this after I see it's done!! It looks good from here!

Bob,

You could either strip it or put a primer coat on and start over on color sequence application.  It's got to be difficult to put a large decal over cast in details: I have trouble just getting a herald looking good  

Almost forgot: use a white primer before putting yellow and red colors on. They will cover much better.

Sam