Atlas O Founders Series Steam 0-6-0 in 3 rail... Opinions?

I would never say anything negative about Atlas O, however, this particular Steamer was not the latest and greatest. A friend of mine had to have it, he purchased it and it didn’t perform like he had anticipated. Atlas Diesels are so great, they are so good at sounds, pulling power, design, and they are simply so much fun to run. In comparing a lionel Legacy B6- 0-6-0, diecast Steamer with the slope back tender, it’s is a much better way to go. So, all I’m saying is it’s an ok product, not a sensational product. You asked, hopefully you can test one before you make a purchase. I love Atlas O track, switches, and rolling stock, signals, kits, bridges, almost everything other than there steamers. My email is in my profile, Leapin Larry. Happy Railroading 

I bought the CB&Q (Burlington) version several years ago. The detail is excellent. I think it runs very good and I have not been disappointing with the sound. The crew talk is garbled - which I don't use anyway. But the bell, whistle and chuffing are very good along with the other train sounds: squealing brakes, hissing, water tank filling, etc.  

The connection between the tender and engine is a little tricky, but once I connected it, I never remove it even if I take it off my layout. 

The center drivers have flanges, so you have to be careful when running on 031 track and switches. I found that it would not track on MTH 031 track or switches, but I have since dumped most all my MTH track and switches and and now use Ross and Gargraves. It travels well over the Ross 031 switches and curves.

I'm happy with it and have no regrets. 

RAY

In my opinion it's a good-looking model with excellent scale details - especially the running gear. I like the chugging sounds and whistle. I give mine a short run occasionally but hesitate to run it often. As I see it, the tether is too stiff and difficult to connect. When I run the locomotive on Atlas O-54 curves, the outside front wheel of the tender tends to lift off the rail because the tether is so stiff, but I haven't had any derailments when pulling one or two cars and a caboose. It seems better on O-72 (see video). I prefer my MTH Premier USRA 0-6-0 steam engine with PS-2.

MELGAR

I don't own one, and nearly bought one from a dealer....?....But, I then heard from a Lionel Repair man, that 1'd need to replace the electronics to the ElectricRR system, which was an update to the TMCC from what I was told/heard....Now for the smoking and Chuffing, if you have to have one I send it to Gun Runner John and have him to install the TMCC Upgrade, as well as, some 4 chuff generator that works off a Tachometer Strip, and flywheel on the motor, as up grade smoking system for the engine.....Now the Legacy B6 0-6-0 with all of the 4 chuffs per wheel revolution, sounds, and lighting, will be much cheaper for ya especially, if you have to give about $300-$400 dollars for that engine, then have all of the other work done to get what a Lionel Legacy already has...

......The one feature I like about the Lionel Legacy 0-6-0 is the tender axle has pick up rollers, on both tender trucks, and 2 rollers on the engine. The overall engine & tender is so short, and some of these switches on layouts have bad spots that will stop a short locomotive, so that's why Lionel did their Magic on adding their extra rollers, and using a wired hook up between the engine and tender, enlieu of the infra red coupler....I hope this helps...

Beautiful model. But it ends there. Junk speaker, sound set and control system. The tether on it is horrible too.  

They were a bit of a disappointment when they first came out.  That may have more to do with AtlasO's choice of subject and road names more than anything else.  However even then the tether between the loco and tender was frequently a source of negative comments.

Obviously a matter of personal preference.  But for a few reasons I would rank these Atlas switchers third behind the Lionel Legacy B6b (which admittedly is a Pennsy prototype) and the MTH Premier USRA 0-6-0.

Most 3-rail O gauge steam locos have "blind" (flangeless) center driving wheels.  Generally the absence of a center flange detracts from realism.  However, the flanges we need to run on tall profile 3-rail track are so large that the middle flange just calls a lot of attention to itself, IMO.  It doesn't help that the Atlas wheels are cast out of some kind of shiny material and unpainted.  I've never painted a piece of rolling stock in my life.  But if I owned one of these, I would be sorely tempted to hit those wheels with an airbrush!

Also, one might expect a switcher like this to negotiate extremely sharp curves.  However as you can tell from the comments above (and in other threads when these locos made their debut), sharp curvature isn't their forte.  Atlas tried hard to bring scale realism to 3-rail O.  But there were some lessons they learned the hard way.  These switchers are pretty hard-core and not for everyone.

I would love to know the gear ratio Atlas used, to see how it compares with the Lionel and MTH.  But unless it's way lower, there's not much reason to choose Atlas over the two more established players.  My $.02.

 I purchased a CRR of NJ a while back. It came #107 which I then turned into a Rutland. The Rutland was close enough to this model and I was able to get the right numbers already done on the lights. I just had to re do the cab and tender with decals.

 It’s a nicely detailed engine. I did my research and read the horror story on the tethers. I found if you flip the engine and tender on there side. Remove one screw and move the front truck back a bit. The 2 tethers are now easy to plug in. The engine and tender can easily be handled attached together.

 To be honest. I haven’t run it all that much. It will be used on an operations based layout and never leave the yard it’s assigned to. It’s not going to run the mainline or loops. I ran a friends and was impressed how well it ran. My own needs some breaking in. I’m not a fan of EOB in a switching loco.. I just don’t like the way the speed slowly ramps up. I found using the DCS remote a little more friendly as I could look at the speed step number and know when to stop turning the throttle.

 I agree about the shiny wheels. I do end up weathering everything and adding Kadee’s. At that point I’ll probably add an ERR board. The sound isn’t great. But for my intended purpose it’s good enough. I usually leave my smoke units off. So I can’t comment on that.

 This was a shot just after decaling.

Thanks for the comments and everyone taking the time to share their thoughts...  A CB&Q version of one of these is what I would want if I happened to find one, since in my eyes the Atlas engines are a very close representation of some the CB&Q had.  The Lionel B6b doesn't quite cut it, since it doesn't have the main connecting rod attached the rear set of drivers like the CB&Q engines, which is something I'd have a hard time looking past.  I'll have to take another look at the MTH 0-6-0's though and refresh my memory on their appearance.  I did have a chance to grab a Lionel TMCC CB&Q 0-8-0 a while back and have been very pleased with it in every respect.

The layout I envision that is yet to be built and is only in the planning stage at this point wouldn't have switches or curves that are that tight, probably O60 would be the tightest...  So at least it doesn't sound like the tether and tight curve problem would necessarily be a deal breaker...  I did notice those shiny wheels and running gear though - I'd definitely have an urge to paint those and make the more dull.  I don't have any experience with engines that have the EOB electronics and based on the comments do wonder how that would be to really try to work with...  It definitely would be nice to see, hear, and operate one in person but as far as I know at the moment that's not in the cards.

So yeah, lots of food for thought in the replies so I'll pondering all of your comments - and again, appreciate the thoughts!

I forgot about EOB, ugh.  Another detraction.  Maybe you can install a Cruise Commander M and not have to replace the whole board stack.  Either way that's another $100 or so that you should try to negotiate off the selling price.

If someone has occasion to open one of these up, please turn the flywheel by hand and count how many turns it takes for one revolution of the drivers.  I've heard that they are very smooth runners and a lot of that comes down to the gear ratio.  I've been keeping a list but this loco is notably absent.  Thanks!!

I have one of these in PRR (naturally) and, after changing the electronics to ERR and adding a new speaker with enclosure (1" speaker from an HO DCC supplier), it runs great in yard switching service.  The gear ratio is 24 to 1 so it is very smooth with great low speed control. 

Another unique feature is the traction tire setup.  The tires are on the center axle, which is sprung.  Most 3-rail locomotives have the tires on either the rear axle or on both the front and rear axles.  The full weight of the engine sits on the tires, so if the wheels slip under heavy load then the tires get stretched and eventually will fail.  The Atlas 0-6-0 wheels can slip but the tire only has the spring pressure on it so it won't stretch.  When coupled to a big string of cars (12-15), the Atlas has a little wheel slip starting out, then pulls the string just fine.  I find that starting wheel slip adds to the fun.

I will say that, although I like the engine it is my most expensive switcher between the purchase price and electronics/speaker replacement.  No, a Cruise M will not work, you need the full ERR package.

CCTSteam,

I just did a video of my 0-6-0 but I can not upload it to the OGR Forum, too big of a file. If you send me your email address, I'll send you my video.

The engine is unmodified. I too have been thinking of installing an ERR Cruise, but I ma very happy with the slow speed control and sound, so I'm going to leave it as is.

I picked up a Lionel Legacy 0-8-0, repainted and lettered it to CB&Q. Added a cuckoo clock head light to the tender. I have another cuckoo clock head light that I thought of adding to the front, but I have many photos of this engine with the pyle style on the front with the cuckoo clock on the tender.

RAY

It seems there are at least two issues here.    First there is the electronics which have been discussed.   there there is the accuracy of the model.    Someone said the Lionel B6 is a better choice.    Well that may be true for the running and electronics, but I am pretty sure CB&Q did not have any B6s.   the Altas model appears to be a very nice model of a USRA 0-6-0.      This was a Pennsy engine and a few did wander off, but not many.    No matter how  you paint it, it is still a Pennsy engine.    The Belpaire firebox could be easily changed.    So from a model accuracy standpoint, the Atlas is much much much better for CB&Q than the Lionel B6.    On a separate note, Pennsy did have 30 USRA 0-6-0s.     It was there B28 class.

How well the model runs is another issue.    I have none of the models discussed so I can't compare.    I do know that how well the model runs is equal in importance to an operating layout to how good a model it is.

I think the Atlas O USRA 0-6-0 steam engine has the usual virtues found on models by Atlas O - accurate detail and smooth running.

MELGAR