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Here is the link to the AUEL flat.  Very likely it was from the more recent production as you suggest.  It definitely looks a lot better than the P&S 200 ton cars I have.  This AUEL went for $75 so a bit above my desire... Maybe I should work on an elongated punch to try and punch those slots in some thin brass for my P&S cars.  Ought to be about like making rivet rows.



Here is the link https://www.ebay.com/itm/O-Sca...rksid=p2047675.l2557

Last edited by Dennis Holler
@mwb posted:

They were produced in both scale, and also insulated and uninsulated, so you have to be a little careful buying these,

Wow, you're right. I just checked the pair shown in the initial photo, and although the flanges are smaller (and therefore "2 rail") they are indeed NOT insulated. 

That's not a deal breaker, as I'm sure I will find something to put these on, but it's good to know for future reference. Thanks for pointing that out. 

Mark in Oregon

@Strummer posted:

Wow, you're right. I just checked the pair shown in the initial photo, and although the flanges are smaller (and therefore "2 rail") they are indeed NOT insulated. 

That's not a deal breaker, as I'm sure I will find something to put these on, but it's good to know for future reference. Thanks for pointing that out. 

Mark in Oregon

That was not an issue for the outside 3rd rail folks,

You can pop off the wheels and with some care and a round file clean out the opening and insulate with a smidge of tape on the axle secured with a smaller smidge of Goo when reassembling the wheelset. Just get it right the 1st time otherwise it gets messy fast,

I did a 5lb coffee can of these once upon a time...........

Something else. 

I put these on an Athearn reefer. They look nice:

auel truck

...but since the bolster center is 20/32" (5/8") above the rail height, these raise the coupler height to where it may be problematic. I checked some other trucks, just for laughs. An Athearn plastic truck measures 17/32" and a Gloor Craft is 16/32". It may not sound like much, but since it does effect the coupler height, I think it's worth noting...

Mark in Oregon

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Here is the link to the AUEL flat.  Very likely it was from the more recent production as you suggest.  It definitely looks a lot better than the P&S 200 ton cars I have.  This AUEL went for $75 so a bit above my desire... Maybe I should work on an elongated punch to try and punch those slots in some thin brass for my P&S cars.  Ought to be about like making rivet rows.



Here is the link https://www.ebay.com/itm/O-Sca...rksid=p2047675.l2557

That site has a ton of cool old stuff right now; in fact, that's where I got these trucks...

Mark in Oregon

@mwb posted:

1. That was not an issue for the outside 3rd rail folks,

2. You can pop off the wheels and with some care and a round file clean out the opening and insulate with a smidge of tape on the axle secured with a smaller smidge of Goo when reassembling the wheelset. Just get it right the 1st time otherwise it gets messy fast,

3. I did a 5lb coffee can of these once upon a time...........

1: Good point.

2: "...pop off the wheels"? Good grief, I'd be afraid of just trying to disassemble these old trucks! 

3: ...wow...

Mark (still) in Oregon

Yep, I've been watching that guy on Ebay for a while now. I think he won a bunch of auctions on some other site and is now selling it all on Ebay. I bought two old boxcars from him, fairly nice.

I've disassembled/assembled plenty of Auel trucks - number one recommendation, do it in a plastic bag. Those springs like to fly away.

To disassemble them, just remove the springs, slide the spring plank out the side, rotate the bolster to 45 degrees, and the side frames should come right off.

@Strummer posted:

1: Good point.

2: "...pop off the wheels"? Good grief, I'd be afraid of just trying to disassemble these old trucks! 

3: ...wow...

Mark (still) in Oregon

Auel trucks tend to be quite robust; popping off a wheel from the axle was easy; leather mallet!

The spring plank is however the delicate component.  Those tend to be found broken or missing entirely.

Strummer, nice looking cabin, but what's that black thing between the rails??? :&lt

For all you Auel fans, Carl's daughter Jeannette Gatch, took over the business, located in North Huntingdon, PA

I recall seeing ads in the classifieds (Leasepool) of an issue of the late O Scale News, one from Ms Gatch: Some of the late Robert Parri's dies have surfaced, while in another ad someone asking: Anyone know the whereabouts of Robert Parri's dies?

I don't know if the two ever hooked up, but I got a good laugh from the coincidence.

Robert Parri, for those who don't know, hand made highly detailed freight cars. I think Parri may have worked for Carl Auel, but I can't say so with any certainty.

Simon

Last edited by Simon Winter

Track: can't say for sure, but I would doubt it. I like Gargraves; it's worked out really well for me.

I find the "power pack" that works the best for my All Nation Ten Wheeler is an old ( pre zip code) Model Rectifier unit. Simple, no pulse power and seems to handle the big open frame motor a little better than some of the newer packs I have...FWIW.

Mark in Oregon

Last edited by Strummer
@Johnbeere posted:

Is something like this about what you're referring to? https://www.ebay.com/itm/143417670399

Could you explain what you mean by "pre-zip code"?

Was just looking at some old topics and I see I never responded: sorry, John!  🙂

"Pre-zip code": the system we now use was started in the middle of 1963, so the MRC power supply I was referring to had to have been made prior to that year... still working great. 😊

Mark in Oregon

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