Basic Training. What pun?

Yes Bill, those are tab and older regular magnetic coupler. There are other, non operating and electro magnetic couples but looks like you have the first two. The uncoupling track is nothing more the an electric magnet that pulls the tab down and opens the couple if you push the button and the truck if over that track. You might want to put some very light oil on the couples. Take a look at this video https://youtu.be/LqEn1RhnWEo

I can't find much on MPC track. Don

1) https://www.tandem-associates....rains_6149_track.htm    "It was controlled by a No. 0190-25 HO Switchthat was included along with two wires. This switch was wired in between the track and the transformer. The two coiled wires were used to wire up this switch. Only one connector to this controller was needed because the other lead from the magnet was grounded to the outer rails on the track."

2) Yes. 

3) Also yes. 

4) That's a 581-10 pickup roller, available at http://www.ttender.com/ and other parts sources.  It can be used to wire your caboose for lights.  In the case of the above pic, the wire has come off of the ground strap.  The pickup can be unsnapped from the truck,  thusly: 

At this point, simply strip a bit of insulation from the wire and resolder it.  I'd also wire brush the rust off; the pickup seems to be in OK condition otherwise. 

Hope this helps!  

Mitch

Thanks again Mitch.

Glad to be of assistance!   

Mitch

The spotlight works again.  Just in time for the grand kids (and me).  The Texas Special 1055 has to get a good run up to climb Bald Rock Mountain.  Not bad for a 60 year old.

The uncoupler track is next on my list.

I have another question I feel new comers may like informed opinions on.    I have seven Lionel cars dated from 1959 to 1964.  They were improperly stored for many years.  The red spotlight car above is a good example.  I wish to run my old trains a lot.  I am not creating a museum or shrine.  I cleaned the axels and wheels on two cars.  Much better but not good enough for reliable operation.  Is it time to invest in a truck full of trucks?  I have five sidings to switch.  Un-couplers are needed.  Does anyone know the part number for trucks like pictured on the brown gondola above?  The axels are pointed and roll very well.

The MPC era Symington highspeed trucks with working couplers are part number 9150-50X.

https://www.trainz.com/product...?variant=40700927878

Train Tender has 9150-76 MPC trucks w/fixed coupler for $5.00.

Mitch

Okay, I got more basic questions. 

When you change out a vintage 1952 magnetic coupler truck, are "E" clips available to replace the thin 1-time horseshoe clips?

Before assembly, should I lightly oil or grease where the truck and chassis touch? 

I got two cars with electromagnetic couplers in the mail yesterday.  I see they need a different "5 rail" track to work.  Is there a way to test them without the special track piece?

Learning new stuff.  It's got to be good for an aging brain.  OHHHH !  Brain cramp!

Odenville Bill posted:

Okay, I got more basic questions. 

When you change out a vintage 1952 magnetic coupler truck, are "E" clips available to replace the thin 1-time horseshoe clips?

You can usually get several cycles out of the horseshoe clips before they fail.  Replacement clips may be found at The Train Tender, Olsen's, etc. 

Before assembly, should I lightly oil or grease where the truck and chassis touch? 

Lightly grease.

I got two cars with electromagnetic couplers in the mail yesterday.  I see they need a different "5 rail" track to work.  Is there a way to test them without the special track piece?

Touch one wire to the truck frame, the other to the contact inside the shoe.  Should work under track power. 

Learning new stuff.  It's got to be good for an aging brain.  OHHHH !  Brain cramp!

Mitch

@Odenville Bill posted:

Hey y'all,

I have more advanced questions.  I've seen real detailed engines called On30(?).  Will they run on a conventional O layout?  

What about brass engines?  What should I look at?

As my layout matures, I am adding more prewar and postwar.  Now I'd like to test the waters of more detailed locos and cars.  Do they run as good as they look?

Bill

On30 are 1/4" scale locomotives that run on HO gauged track.  They are models of narrow-gauge prototypes and while smaller in physical size, they are indeed O Scale.

Your posts indicate 3-rail O.  As far as brass goes, pretty much the only current option is 3rd Rail.  These will generally require O54 curves or higher, depending on the model.  They won't be able to handle the curves of O27 or O31.

Rusty

Rusty, you broke my hopes but saved me thousands.  Thank you.  I will be limited to O31 for at least another year.

I see beautiful engines all the time on the forum.  If any of y'all have suggestions for more detailed rolling stock that can run on O31, please make suggestions.

Bill

@Odenville Bill posted:

When you change out a vintage 1952 magnetic coupler truck, are "E" clips available to replace the thin 1-time horseshoe clips?

You can use properly sized E-Clips for the horseshoe, I typically replace them that way when I do them.

@Odenville Bill posted:

Hey y'all,

As my layout matures, I am adding more prewar and postwar.  Now I'd like to test the waters of more detailed locos and cars.  Do they run as good as they look?

Bill

Hi Bill,

For more detailed locos and cars, you will probably need to be looking at stuff manufactured within the last twenty or thirty years.  Do they run as good as they look?  Well, yes and no.  If you're lucky, they do.  Otherwise, the modern-day, hi-tech electronics are far more prone to failure, than lets say, the electronics of the pre- and post-war locos and cars (pre- and post-war electronics?  That's a joke, son, do ya' get it? )

Add-on details for locos and cars look fabulous, as opposed to molded-on details, until they break or fall off.  Metal add-on details are much more durable than plastic add-on details, of course.

Since the bulk of the newer stuff from the past 20 or 30 years being made in China, there's always quality control problems (common) and zinc-pest issues (not as common, but really annoying) that you may have to deal with.  But, if you have good mechanical ability along with problem solving and modeling skills, a lot of these problems can be overcome.

The more modern locos and cars have a bigger variety of true 1/48 scale-sized equipment available than the older stuff had.  Giving the modern day 3-railer far more choices to be all over the place with all kinds of non-matching scale sizes than our fore-fathers ever had.  Wow!  What a deal, eh?

All in all, with all the potential headaches, I'm still having fun with the more modern stuff.  Sometimes I get lucky, and other times, I have to start fixin' stuff.  Oh well, it's a hobby, ain't it? 

Mixed Freight, I've been back messing with trains for about a year and a half.  There is some much to learn.  I've found it cheaper to ask these questions than to buy and try.  Thank you for your guidance.

gunrunnerjohn, I learned quick to pay attention to your sage advice.  I thought many times to call you for help with a LC+ Mikado.  While were here, the sounds quit again and can it do 4 chuffs per revolution?

Bill

Don't know about why the sounds quit on the LC+ engine, you'd have to start chasing down possibilities.  First suspect is the drawbar, followed by the speaker and wiring in the tender.

The LC+ is limited to 2-chuff/rev, they're internally generated from the tach reader so there's no way for the end user to change them.

Thank you John.  I've replaced the speaker.  I'll test the draw bar next. 

Hey Y'all, I'm still looking to expand my rolling stock.

I saw some videos of Prewar clockwork trains.  They were labeled O Gauge.  Will these trains run on Lionel O Gauge track with the power off?  If so, any suggestions on good runners?

Bill

@Odenville Bill posted:

Rusty, you broke my hopes but saved me thousands.

Bill

Bill, you do realize that you can do a Google search for simple questions such as what On30 is, right? The results in this case would give you a quick answer without even having to click on one of the links in the search results.

I would like to hear from someone concerning putting believable diesel sounds in a post war #210 dummy engine.  I have no wish to add TMCC to my layout at this time.  I've read about ERR in several posts.  What is the forum members verdict on add on sounds?

Bill

Bill, go here and review the sound clips for the various sound files for diesels.

http://www.3rdrail.com/err-3rd.../purchaseRailSnd.htm

Scroll down to the diesel section and click on the sound sample link.

John,

I like the C420 sounds.  I found the installation instructions too.  In use, does the diesel sound change with speed (voltage applied)?

Yep, it's a dirt simple hookup.  My only gripe is I believe they rev up in neutral if the voltage is set up past their idling setting.  If you add a battery, or my YLB, you won't have sound cutouts when reversing or at very low throttle settings.

Gentlemen, an ERR has moved to the top of my Christmas list.

Thank you again John.