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So I checked that I used the right size BCR but after installing it and putting my engine on the track, a big puff of white smoke came out (MTH Rectifier 30-2518-1) and now the engine looks like a dead short to the transformer, even with the BCR removed.
I've been around electronics enough to know a big buff of white smoke like that is probably a capacitor but would love any ideas from the forum to bring my favorite Rectifier back to life.  I thought installing the BCR would extend its life not kill it but wondering if I did something wrong.
Edit:  I changed this topic based on Vernon's feedback to not give the wrong impression that the BCR killed the engine which does not seem to be the case.  I had not powered up this Rectifier for a few years so that may have been the issue.

Last edited by EmpireBuilderDave
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#1 you have a PS2 5V engine, made right in 2000, right when it was KNOWN faulty capacitors that would fail even not powered. https://mthtrains.com/30-2518-1 Again, this engine could be a ticking time bomb, regardless of BCR or battery, the next time it was powered.

#2 The KNOWN capacitor to fail with near 100% failure rate was the wincap brand. The idea being, that when you remove the shell to inspect a PS2 5V and replace a battery or install a BCR- you ALSO check to see what brand of capacitor and the condition of your PS2 5V board set for the dreaded WINCAP brand cap, and if so, replace it BEFORE it blows up and kills the board.

PS2 5Volt Board....ARRAGH!!!!!! | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum

Again, likely had nothing to do with you putting a BCR in, it was just most likely, a failed capacitor waiting for the next time you powered the engine to blow. A literal ticking timebomb.

I'll also add, while google searching your engine product number, the second on the list just down from the MTH website product listing, was a dead version of your engine that likely died for the same reason- it was going to fail from day1 unless the capacitor was replaced first.

I call that a sign.

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Last edited by Vernon Barry

Thanks Vernon, I feel better.. and worse...
So is there a repair for it?  Looks like MTH stocks the boards still but a full board set is probably worth more than the engine.

You can attempt to replace that capacitor that failed. That's likely the cause of the short. Depending on how many amps you supplied and how long it cooked for determines what else may have been cooked after the capacitor failed (example the diodes).

Maybe you get lucky, replace the capacitor (330uF 35V) and it works.

Otherwise, yes, you need a PS3/2 5V style stacker board set to plug into your existing harness, and also change the speaker from 16 to 4Ohm rating to match the replacement "upgrade" board.

Last edited by Vernon Barry

Thanks Vernon.  I don't see any visible damage to any of the capacitors, maybe bowed out a little on the bottom of that 330 uF cap so maybe I'll try my soldering skills to replace that cap since it sounds like the board is dead anyways. 
It's been a long time since I've purchased component level parts - any suggestions for where to buy the capacitor?

I really appreciate your help.

Thanks Vernon.  I don't see any visible damage to any of the capacitors, maybe bowed out a little on the bottom of that 330 uF cap so maybe I'll try my soldering skills to replace that cap since it sounds like the board is dead anyways.
It's been a long time since I've purchased component level parts - any suggestions for where to buy the capacitor?

I really appreciate your help.

Try Mouser or DigiKey. Ali-express is a cheaper option if you don't mind waiting for parts to ship.

Too bad about your engine Dave. We all have 5V PS2's in our collections. Some will run forever and others will go poof!

Bob

Usually, when the cap explodes like yours did, it’s curtains for a 5V board. You can give it a shot trying to swap out the cap, but I’ve never been able to breathe life into them in a cap explosion example. I’ve saved some 5V boards from certain death that were still working with very swollen caps, …..it’s the short that’s usually the end game for that board set,…..obviously you ain’t got nothing to lose, but time & few pennies….the deed is done …

Pat

If you have a dead short you have diode or other FET based component that failed.  Keep powering it up and it will melt the trace or open the shorted diode.  It died, move on.  It can be repaired wit a PS-32 5V board.

Sometime folks pinch wires doing a battery change.  Speaker or other wire like 5V or PCB ground.  That will also kill a board putting the AC from the chassis on the DC side of the board.  Everyone focus on the capacitor or a dead orig battery, yet I have replaced batteries on plenty of 5V engines that worked with that Dead battery installed.  I have boxes of boards I can send you with good capacitor but boards are dead, or high current shorted.   It happens.  Frankly I am starting to see more 3V boards with catastrophic failures.  There hitting the 20 year mark.  Lionel TMCC boards failing too, right?  G

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