Skip to main content

As you know, the two clip pieces that hold the wheels in were broke when I unboxed it. I got no response from Lionel, so I sent a message to Charles Ro. I received two new clips from Charles Ro today. They were the wrong clips, so I called Charles Ro back. Talked to a wonderful gentleman who told me that the two pieces I got today were sent from Lionel. So now they are going to send me a new complete front pilot. I hope it's the right one, my pilot has a power piece screwed to it.16085765486057373240694624069768

These are the pieces that were broken, part of the circle was missing that holds the pointed axle in place.16085766738924928906027666994460

These are the replacement pieces, to big and fat to fit in the pilot truck.1608576788774914310698546891639

As you can see, this pilot has thin pockets for the clips. The small screw hole is where the copper power clip goes.16085771301883141769221896691807

Here is the copper power piece that the front axle lays up against. I hope to run this before 2021 arrives...

Attachments

Images (4)
  • 16085765486057373240694624069768
  • 16085766738924928906027666994460
  • 1608576788774914310698546891639
  • 16085771301883141769221896691807
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Had a similar problem on one of my Berk's., with the axle hole having a piece out of it. The front pilot axle fell out when I unboxed the locomotive for the first time. Fortunately I was able to snap the plastic pieces and axle back into place and it is still working fine. Poor design, very delicate cannot take any but the most careful handling!

Do you guys mind a suggestion for a permanent solution to this?.....and this is only a suggestion, those pesky bearings are a PITA in the 3 rail O from both Lionel & MTH, ....I got sick and tired of tracking them down myself, .....never seemed to get the correct one,.....so if you notice, if you put the bearing pieces back in the pilot truck, they will not go up and through, but they’ll surely fall out the bottom, ....so what I’ve done on some pesky offenders is to fashion a retainer cap from .010 sheet brass, and a couple of 2mmX4mm JIS head Phillips screws,......fashion a nice bearing cap, and use a .059 drill bit to make your holes, ....mark your drill bit with tape to set the depth, ( you don’t need much) if you use the .059 drill bit, they’re will be no need to tap the hole, the material is soft enough the JIS screw will gladly cut the threads itself!....those JIS screws are some tough ombré s...I didn’t bother painting this set up since it just circles the Christmas tree for hours on end, ......I know a lot us don’t like modifying stuff like this, but I’m just tossing this out there, it is a proven repair,....and very simple to execute ,....and no more bearings falling out!...that front AF pilot truck looks like it’s got two nice places of meat to take a small hole like that for those screws,...

Pat8BDDF2D1-15BD-4761-A423-CAF380E7BE5A9DFA8A84-0DDC-4DDB-B290-EC3625FB7238

Attachments

Images (2)
  • 8BDDF2D1-15BD-4761-A423-CAF380E7BE5A
  • 9DFA8A84-0DDC-4DDB-B290-EC3625FB7238

I had originally planned to put my AF 765 in storage until I had time to set up some track, but after reading all of the issues listed here, I thought it prudent to open up the box and check my front leading truck.  Well, the truck all seems to be intact and fine, but the front coupler was loose in the box along with a screw.  It seems to be a pretty long screw, but I'm assuming that it is the screw used to hold the coupler in the pilot.  I'm also assuming that it's screwed in from the top and not the bottom.  Before I start fooling around with it (and potentially messing something up), I would really appreciate if someone could check their loco and tell me how their front coupler is attached and if this screw looks right?

The other issue I noticed is that one of the trailing truck electrical contacts is bent away from the axle and not making contact.  That looks like a simple fix of removing the screw holding the contact wipers and bending slightly to make contact.  I posted the picture since others may want to check theirs to make sure their contacts are correctly positioned.  It is nice to see that the wipers are on both sides and have pickups for all four wheels on the truck.

Thanks, Mike A.

NKP765aNKP765bNKP765c

Attachments

Images (3)
  • NKP765a: NKP 765 Front
  • NKP765b: Front coupler and screw found in the box.  Seems a bit long!
  • NKP765c: Rear trailing truck bent contact.
Last edited by Mikeaa
@Mikeaa posted:

Hey Rich,  Thanks for checking.  That was very helpful.  I was worried about that coupler bar.  I guess I'll have to coax the screw around it.

Mike A.

The uncoupling lever is held on in the bracket slots by friction.  The two outside slots face forward, the two inside slots face the locomotive.  The uncoupling lever can be removed by very carefully sliding the lever ends out of their slots, then moving the bar back to free it from the inside brackets.

It's a little tricky and comes off easier than it goes back on, but it can be done.

Rusty

Last edited by Rusty Traque

The uncoupling lever is held on in the bracket slots by friction.  The two outside slots face forward, the two inside slots face the locomotive.  The uncoupling lever can be removed by very carefully sliding the lever ends out of their slots, then moving the bar back to free it from the inside brackets.

It's a little tricky and comes off easier than it goes back on, but it can be done.

Rusty

Hey Rusty, Thanks for letting me know.  I was worried about getting around that bar.  I do like the look of the dummy coupler on the front and I don't think I will need a working coupler there, but it occurred to me that this may be an opportunity to explore replacing the dummy with a ProtoMax or Kadee coupler on the front pilot.  I do plan to also change out the rear coupler at some point, but that's another project down the road.

Thanks, Mike A.

can someone tell me why there is a electrical contact on the front truck axel , I have disconnected the contact and the engine runs fine I noticed the wire that connects to the wiper on the axel that running thru the chassis had insulation rubbed off and was shorting out. The engine runs better  without the connection I noticed when running true  fast track switches it runs much better no sparks?

it would be nice if Lionel produced schematics on these engines I hate to start taking it apart after the first few weeks of ownership.

Add Reply

Post
OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
330-757-3020

www.ogaugerr.com
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×