In this new build an older polyurethane / lead kit will be assembled. The kit is the Berkshire Valley Corner Drug Store (kit 808) which was retired a while back. When sent to me from the customer the kit had no instructions. I contacted Berkshire Valley by email – Richard Rands was kind enough to find, scan and email me the instructions. Richard will be following this post to determine whether he wants to resurrect the kit once again so I will be offering comments as I go.

The finished product will look something like below.

164-808

The kit consists of very heavy polyurethane wall sections and what appears to be lead details and window frames. The roof section, side stairwell and overhang are solid polyurethane and quite heavy. The box did appear pretty old so I am not sure what condition the items in a brand new kit would be in. A lot of the lead window frames and posts were bent however being lead they can be straightened out somewhat. Some trim on the roof and walls had broken off. Comment – if this kit resurrected every thing lead should be molded in plastic except perhaps the lamp posts and details.

In this first post I read through the instructions grouping parts as I went along. One item that will complicate the build is an interior detail kit the customer sent along with the building kit for the first and second floors. The walls can not be glued together until the interior is complete. Also the floor / sidewalk will not be heavy enough to support the finished building so the instruction set recommended attaching the floor / sidewalk to a piece of wood / hardboard.

 

Berkshire Valley Corner Drug Store [2)

Figure 2

There are two sets of bay windows that will attach to the main side wall.

 

Berkshire Valley Corner Drug Store [3)

Figure 3

Standing one window frame on end one can see how bent out of shape it is.

 

Berkshire Valley Corner Drug Store [4)

Figure 4

This is the front wall cupola. The square hole in the bottom will have a post installed.

 

Berkshire Valley Corner Drug Store [5)

Figure 5

The two side walls and back wall laid out with the stairwell sitting on top of the side wall. There is no front wall. The copula and front door will take up the space.

 

Berkshire Valley Corner Drug Store [6)

Figure 6

This is the base and sidewalk.

 

Berkshire Valley Corner Drug Store [7)

Figure 7

The sidewalk overhang. The bay windows will fit inside the cutouts on the overhang.

 

Berkshire Valley Corner Drug Store [8)

Figure 8

The roof is one solid piece of polyurethane and is quite heavy. There are some lead corbels that will need to be glued to the roof.

 

Joe Fauty

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Original Post

It's a great kit...when finished. Sort of a PITA to construct. But, definitely worth it. I did it a couple of years back and it's one of my favorite on the layout. Because it sort of begged for an interior, the bottom is, of course, a drugstore/corner soda fountain and the top is an office with lots of people on both levels and lighting. Well worth the time and effort. 

Alan Graziano posted:

Joe

I did one of those a number of years ago. Thats one kit that will require a lot of cyanacrolate cement (crazy glue). I would get plastruct cyc3 because it is thick and can fill gaps nicely, and also a bottle of accelerator.

To All - thanks for the comments.

Alan:

I added the cyc3 and accelerator to my Plastruct order list. if you remember anything on the build process please let me know. My current plan is to glue the windows as sub-assemblies, fill in holes with Squadron putty, clean and paint. Paint all plastic as individual units and assemble the interior before I glue them up.

Joe

Joe Fauty

Did some prep work on the roof section.
I sanded the bottom smooth then spent time removing flash from the bottom edges - at least I hope it was flash. Looking at the finished picture this may have been a ledge, however large chunks were missing so I had no choice here. I also discovered one of the corbels was damaged with about half of it missing. Metal corbels came with the kit that I was supposed to glue to two sections so I used one for repair. There will be one missing corbel but it is in an area where I don't think it will be noticed.

Next up are the metal bay windows.

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If the roof does not look right when seated to the walls I will add a styrene sheet to act as a ledge.

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The missing corbel - plus a chunk taken out of the top trim. I sanded the area smooth, added Squadron putty to the top and glued in a metal corbel.

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I still need to add some putty to the small corbel on the left.

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These are the two sections one needs to glue in corbels.

Joe Fauty

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Cleaned up and glued the bay windows today. I took a fine file to the edges that were to be joined. Then used CA and a kicker to glue.

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This is the front assembly. I assembled the end assemblies separately then glued the to the front.

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The bottoms are flat however I will have to play with the tops once I set up to glue them in place.

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It's hard to see but this is what the edge looks like after filing.

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Next up is the bay window.

Joe Fauty

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The Berkshire Valley Drug store is one of my favorite kits. I did the full interior both upstairs and the soda fountain down stairs. I would strongly encourage Richard to remake this model. There is nothing like it. Here is mine on the layout. Click picture to enlarge. Donnight drug store [wet0

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scale rail posted:

The Berkshire Valley Drug store is one of my favorite kits. I did the full interior both upstairs and the soda fountain down stairs. I would strongly encourage Richard to remake this model. There is nothing like it. Here is mine on the layout. Click picture to enlarge. Donnight drug store [wet0

Wow. This looks great. 

Railroad modeling is fun, relaxing, and a great place to make good friends. 

Joe Fauty posted:

Worked on the copula windows today. The instructions was not kidding when it said a little sanding was needed to make the windows fit. I also removed flash, did some repairs and washed all the walls for paint.

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Joe. That's the hardest part of the kit!

I was wondering what your comment would be when you got to this stage I've kept quiet in case it was only me that had trouble with them.  Roo.

scale rail posted:

The Berkshire Valley Drug store is one of my favorite kits. I did the full interior both upstairs and the soda fountain down stairs. I would strongly encourage Richard to remake this model. There is nothing like it. Here is mine on the layout. Click picture to enlarge. Donnight drug store [wet0

Don

I remember this from your Last Run video. Fabulous job on the kit whole scene. It was on my bucket list to build, but looks like I procrastinated too long.  I would definitely buy the building and interior kit if they ran it again. 

Bob

I am enjoying your build.  Thanks for posting.

I learned a valuable lesson from this kit - if you see something you really like and want in this hobby, you should not wait to purchase!  Many years ago,  When I first saw this structure for sale it was produced by Magnus Models (I think that is correct spelling).  While I was saving money to purchase the kits, they discontinued them.  I was devastated!    But I was equally as excited 3 or 4 years later when Berkshire Valley released the kit.  I immediately purchase and put it in my pile of kits to build.  Unfortunately, when I went to assemble it, I soon realized that it required more skills and patience than I could muster.   Several years later, a gentleman at York had a completed  structure for sale and I asked if he would assemble mine.  He did a fabulous job and it was my favorite building then and continues to be over 20 years later.  It is also the most commented on structure on my layout.

I am sure your customer will be thrilled to finally have it built!

Happy railroading,

Don

Roo posted:
Joe Fauty posted:

Worked on the copula windows today. The instructions was not kidding when it said a little sanding was needed to make the windows fit. I also removed flash, did some repairs and washed all the walls for paint.

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Joe. That's the hardest part of the kit!

I was wondering what your comment would be when you got to this stage I've kept quiet in case it was only me that had trouble with them.  Roo.

Roo:

If you have daylight photos of the building please post especially the front window wall. The instructions I received have some very poor sketches / photos so I am mostly going by the text. I had to stare at this assembly for a while not sure if the windows went inside or along the edge of the roof component. I am pretty certain they don't go inside the bottom portion but on top of it???????????
I am also wondering if the front bay windows go inside the overhang recesses or on on top. My assemblies seem too big to fit inside.

Thanks

Joe

Joe Fauty

I washed, taped and started painting the walls, roof and floor. I will be sticking fairly close to the colors recommended in the instructions however will deviate with some pieces as I go along. Wall paper came with the kit but it was so beat up I printed a new sheet. I also am not going to paint the floor the checkered white and black - too much hassle. Instead I printed out the pattern and will glue it in place.

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While I was waiting for paint to dry I started on the interior details. Photos are shown below.

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I decided to glue all the desk details in place. I will paint the desk its color then go back with a brush to paint the lamps, phones, typewriters etc.

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I built my own pharmacy booth out of 60 mil styrene. I did not like the paper doors supplied with the kit so am using Grandt Line doors for both the first and second floors. I punched circles from 20 mil styrene to make plates. I also decided to glue all the bar stools to a piece of 20 mil styrene. I will paint this as a sub-assembly. I figure to paint the 'plates' white then add some yellow (eggs), brown (bacon), green (veges), black (steak - like them well done). Not sure what to do for silverware. The stools will be silver with black tops. The fountains will be silver as will the cash register. I will paint the bottles in the crates a dark brown ( I like root beer soda) then go back with tan for the wood. The radiators will be dull nickel.

Joe Fauty

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Hi Joe.

I have looked through a lot of photos going back a few years but cannot find any related to the Drug Store I have the original instructions as I file these away in a cabinet but that's all. I have a horrible feeling that this was built before digital and if so most of those photos were lost, they were not good photos anyway the model itself is gone maybe when I sold or gave away a lot of O items years ago to make room for more...... I don't think a modeller of your calibre will have to much trouble with this kit you are doing a fine job from what I can see and the lucky owner I am sure will be very pleased with the finished model. Sorry I can't help you any further mate.  Roo.

 

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Thanks PRR

Below are some photos of the parts in various stages of paint. I will be doing some detail painting today and using jloint compound tomorrow.

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It may be hard to see - I painted the base coat using a spray can, let it dry then went back with different shades of red to brown acrylic paints using the sponge technique. I want to make the building a little more worn then the photos on the box.

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Joe Fauty

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How I stopped worrying and learned to love the joint compound..........

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Just remember to spray with dullcote before moving on.

I worked on the roof shingles - jury is still out. I started with sponging light gray from a spray can. Once dry I went back with two other shades of gray and some dark red (sponge and acylic paint). Normally I would spray one color, dullcote then work with powders. I'm kind of getting into the sponge technique. One note make the pieces of sponge longer than you think you need because when you dip it into the paint you always get paint on your finger. When the sponge is too short you end up finger painting.

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I will re-paint the black and see how it looks.

Joe Fauty

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Good job so far! I built one 10 years ago for a pal (custom named for a family member). He did not have the detail kit at the time. I wouldn't mind building one of these again with the full interior and lights. I'd probably paint it a little differently. I have a collection of BV/Chooch kits. The BV Plumber's Supply kit is real nice too.

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Mullet River caboose kit was a pain to build; as a structure, in difficulty,  how does this compare?  These kits show up at auction, but are so distinctive, l have passed. It looks hard to bash enough to make it unrecognizable.

??Another one of THOSE!!??  What you want to sell is not what I want to buy!

If it is me you are asking and not Norm I am not familiar with the Mullet River kit so can not comment. As for kit bashing the Berkshire kit I would say definitely not. Paint, details and heavy weathering to make the building look old is about all I can see being done. I do like Norm's paint scheme a lot. I suppose one could add a sloped or a-frame roofed annex to the back end.

Joe Fauty

I finished painting the details for the interior. I have placed them in their respective positions as shown below. I will glue them to the floors but I have my doubts about them surviving shipping. So I will not glue the second floor nor the roof in place. They will be shipped independently.

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Joe Fauty

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I just aimed the question at any builder of the kit.. My original thinking was that it was out of place in a false-front mining town.  Then thought of towns where it would not be out of place: Leadville, Cripple Creek, Victor, or even Rhyolite with its crumbling brick bldgs. on edge of Death Valley...as for bashing, l might move tower to middle or other end, and move the bay wherever, might try for an "L" shape. Some kits, bashing makes easier...l doubt this one..would have to design building change floorplan, and then redesign to fit: roof!, which might be biggest challenge.  The light color brings out details, but l would be constrained to heavily weathered brick. Would rather use Victorian multicolors. Definitely an interesting structure.

??Another one of THOSE!!??  What you want to sell is not what I want to buy!

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