If you assembled this kit can you tell me what you glued the walls with.
Thanks
joe
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I built that kit probably 20 years ago. Chances are I used Slow Zap as it was my go to glue back in the day. A lot more choices out there today. I would think Gorilla Glue with the blue cap or a Loctite product would work. The Berkshire Valley resisin walls are pretty thick and offer a good surface to glue. If you aren't super detailing the inside. I always brace everything with 3/16 basswood. Use minimal glue on the wall joints and a liberal amount for the basswood bracing inside.
Thanks
Tom, that came out great. Really like the interior detailing.
Doberman, just make sure you wash the walls first in some dishwashing soap. It may glue together okay. But you may have trouble getting the paint to stick if the mold release is still present. I usually tape a piece of sandpaper to a piece of glass. Then just give each wall at the glue joint a few passes over it. Just to take out any irregularities. Usually the Berkshire Valley kits have pretty square and true walls. For a really strong bond. Lately I have been putting Zap Goo on one side (it's sold in tube form) and putting Slo Zap on the adjoining wall.
Dave,
Thanks for the compliment. I had to use a picture of lockers glued to balsa wood to get the 3D lockers I wanted.
Great advice. Yes have to wash everything first and sand joints.
Tom
Dave_C posted:Tom, that came out great. Really like the interior detailing.
Doberman, just make sure you wash the walls first in some dishwashing soap. It may glue together okay. But you may have trouble getting the paint to stick if the mold release is still present. I usually tape a piece of sandpaper to a piece of glass. Then just give each wall at the glue joint a few passes over it. Just to take out any irregularities. Usually the Berkshire Valley kits have pretty square and true walls. For a really strong bond. Lately I have been putting Zap Goo on one side (it's sold in tube form) and putting Slo Zap on the adjoining wall.
Thanks Dave...I've been pretty frustrated with a Downtown Deco I got from the auction site so I thought I'd try working on this for a while. First thought when I opened the box was what"s this shiny stuff on the inside of the walls. Took a while before I figured out it was the resin and they had primed the outside. Nice touch on the part of Berkshire Valley but put my brain on hold for a while.
joe
Tom
Nice work. I've detailed a few interiors but I find it frustrating and it can get pretty expensive unless you're pretty creative so I don"t do much and what I do couldn't be posted here.
joe
Joe:
I have used white glue in the past with good success. You can choose from 5 minute epoxy, super glue (use a gel not the liquid because the hydrocal plaster is porous), white wood glue.
Although I have yet to try them on plaster you may want to look at formula 500 canopy glue (drys clear) or weldbond.
Joe
Model Structures posted:Joe:
I have used white glue in the past with good success. You can choose from 5 minute epoxy, super glue (use a gel not the liquid because the hydrocal plaster is porous), white wood glue.
Although I have yet to try them on plaster you may want to look at formula 500 canopy glue (drys clear) or weldbond.
Joe
Joe
It's a resin kit. The post started with a DD Barbershop corner building I bought off the bay. It was a partial assembly and had so much paint on it a lot of the brick detail was lost and then it was primed with something as slippery as glass. I've been able to somewhat salvage the DD building but lesson learned on buying a kit someone else started. I use Tite Bond on unpainted plaster and CA on resin but it didn't click with me that this was resin at first because it had a primer coat on it
TThanks
joe
Attachments
Images (1)
I think I used Loctite super glue. I really enjoyed building this kit.
Some pics:
Attachments
Images (4)
Really great job on the 813 building. Super interior.
Tom
dobermann posted:Model Structures posted:Joe:
I have used white glue in the past with good success. You can choose from 5 minute epoxy, super glue (use a gel not the liquid because the hydrocal plaster is porous), white wood glue.
Although I have yet to try them on plaster you may want to look at formula 500 canopy glue (drys clear) or weldbond.
Joe
Joe
It's a resin kit. The post started with a DD Barbershop corner building I bought off the bay. It was a partial assembly and had so much paint on it a lot of the brick detail was lost and then it was primed with something as slippery as glass. I've been able to somewhat salvage the DD building but lesson learned on buying a kit someone else started. I use Tite Bond on unpainted plaster and CA on resin but it didn't click with me that this was resin at first because it had a primer coat on it
TThanks
joe
Joe:
Sorry about the confusion. I just learned something new - never dealt with a resin kit unless this is what the Korber kits are made from?? From below it sounds like Korber is a plastic resin kit. In that case I use Gorilla Glue with the light blue cap since it bonds the plastic and any wood I use for stiffening the structures.
I did some searching on resin and came up with:
"Superglue Even though resin is a type of plastic, glues used for plastic kits are not effective at sticking resin pieces together, a good superglue is required instead. Epoxy Glue For larger and heavier parts, a two-part epoxy can be used to provide a very strong bond."
http://www.sylvanscalemodels.com/modelling.htm (resin modeling tips)
Joe
Joe, not quite on topic, but since you mention frustration with a Downtown Deco kit, what was the problem? They're one of my favorite manufacturers and the hydrocal material they use gives a very realistic detail and weathering opportunities. I've probably built almost all of them and might be able to provide some thoughts.
I bought it on the auction site. The description was 4 outer walls assemb.ed primed and ready to finish. Starting bid was 39.95 and when it ended I was the only bidder. When I took it out of the box I was pretty happy with how someone had done such a good job of lining up the walls. Almost perfect joints with no gaps. The primer was a light tan. I tried artist acrylic wash..slid right off. Next I tried craft acrylics ..same result. That's when I noticed most of the brick detail was gone. When I looked at the bottom I would guess this thing had at 4 different colors put on and then this Primer? Mortar joints pretty much filled with paint.
I have around do 30 DD buildings and only 2 are painted..the rest washes on washes until I get what looks good to me. It's a Barber shop/newsstand so right now I'm waiting on a Miller Engineering Barber pole
This is the third time I bought a DD building off the bay that was in some state of assembly because the price was right. Hopefully I learned this time
It sound like you have an oil based paint on it. Test an enamel/thinner wash inside. Then lacquer and lacquer thinner if enamel wont bite. Acetone and acrylic last....and keep reading....fyi, vinyl might melt under these suggestions.
Trouble with a resin? Could be a vinyl. I came across that in an 60s A-100 van model once. I sold it to someone, never built it, just heard warnings about the glues and paints needed. The vinyl was yellowish white. Looked similar to the hard as rock yellow automotive epoxy primer for Corvettes. You might try a custom 1:24 automotive model casting fellow called Jimmy Flintstone. He knows better than me what to look for and use for hard vinyl castings. Has a site, any search engine should find him if he is still around.
dobermann posted:I bought it on the auction site. The description was 4 outer walls assemb.ed primed and ready to finish. Starting bid was 39.95 and when it ended I was the only bidder. When I took it out of the box I was pretty happy with how someone had done such a good job of lining up the walls. Almost perfect joints with no gaps. The primer was a light tan. I tried artist acrylic wash..slid right off. Next I tried craft acrylics ..same result. That's when I noticed most of the brick detail was gone. When I looked at the bottom I would guess this thing had at 4 different colors put on and then this Primer? Mortar joints pretty much filled with paint.
I have around do 30 DD buildings and only 2 are painted..the rest washes on washes until I get what looks good to me. It's a Barber shop/newsstand so right now I'm waiting on a Miller Engineering Barber pole
This is the third time I bought a DD building off the bay that was in some state of assembly because the price was right. Hopefully I learned this time
Sorry, I didn’t realize that you had done so many DD kits. Obviously you know the drill and how to do them (unlike the person you bought it from). The problem sounds like what Adriatic suggested. If that doesn’t work and if the primer looks ok as a color, maybe try a spray of matte medium, then an alcohol/india ink wash or powders to give it a grimy look and tone down the primer. But if the primer just isn’t good and/or most of the brick detail is lost (brick detail being one of the great things about DD kits), maybe consider just covering all but the tile running around the bottom with some clapboard sheets (so easy to paint) and call it a day. Why anyone would do that to a hydrocal wall is a mystery but I’m sure with your Miller addition and a little creative thinking, you’ll make it look pretty good. Good luck.
I am about half-way through constructing the kit and have a lot of pewter pieces that I have no idea what to use for. If anyone has photos of the finished 200 gal fuel tank, the side of the shed with the wire assemble to the telephone pole, and the finished front of the shed I would appreciate seeing them.
This is my first kit and I feel that the directions could do with a few more drawings.
Thanks
Did you get the instruction sheet ?
I have the instruction sheet with "copyright 1995 "notation on the front sheet - the condition of the box and the instructions make me believe that the kit was produced around that date.
I can't find directions concerning what to do with what appears to me to be a lot of extra metal (pewter) parts. I thought that with detailed photographs of the exterior walls of the building I could identify the correct position for at least some of the parts.
Some of the current problems:
1. There are a number of small metal parts (pipes, etc.) that may be associated with the fuel tank, but the instructions with limited drawings don't mention them.
2. I am not sure if the conduit piece running from the meter to the insulators on the side of the shed is a 2" long thin wire that comes with the kit.
3. There is a 1 1/2" x 1/2" metal piece that has three hinges and one handle stamped on one side. It could be a locker door or the top of a storage box but the instructions do not address this piece.
Appreciate any help.
