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Please bear with me as I am completly new to "O" scale and this forum. I need some honest advise about what track and switch work together. I like Atlas but the switch seems to be wired poorly. Same situation in N scale- the points fall off due to poor assembly of the retaining washer holding the point in place.
The O problem seems to be a wiring issue, aka too small of a wire for the load placed on it , hence a smoke release from the underside of the switch. OTHER THAN THE WIRING ISSUE, do the Atlas switches allow smooth transition running through them or is there another problem with derailing/climbout while passing through them. We had this issue with the n scale crossings and had to redo parts of the layout to eliminate the crossings.
Will MTH Scale Trax switches work with Atlas track?? OR should I save a buck and use the whole Scale Trax system as Atlas is priced higher than most. GG and Ross seem to be joined together at the hip as I have researched some layouts and the same combo appears on the biggest percentage of those I have viewed. I don't know about the supply and demand of Atlas O but we waited over a year to get code 55 n scale track and switches as there was a issue in China with molds and other issues, so we were told.
Will the wheel flanges of standard O cars clear the ties of Atlas or will they skip over the ties?? From what I have gathered here on this forum, MTH scale trax seems to be the current favorite followed by GG/RCS and finally Atlas with either their switches or Ross.
Again please bear with me as this is all new and sometimes confusing depending on who you talk to or what the man behind the counter thinks you need. I try to support my local hobby shops as much as I can so what they carry might determine what I use.
Thanks
Frank
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Thanks for the reply. I'm going to look at the actual parts before choosing the final track/switch mfg. I can buy MTH track locally but I need to see if I like the entire system. GG/Ross looks great but as you stated, I need to practice on flex track to get the hang of laying it. I guess I need to start looking/testing for my choice.
Frank
Frank,
Like many others I use Ross switches and Gargraves track.

I found that it's easier to use sectional curved track to start and end a curve, then to use flex track for all of it, especially if it's a transitional curve. I have 4 corners of my layout that are a constant radius, all of that is using sectional curved pieces. I use the long flex track for sidings where I have fairly long straight tracks. The track can easily be cut using a Dremel cut-off disk, I use those big 1-1/2" or so disks.

With that said I saw one of our fellow forumites layout and he used all Atlas track. Very nice looking track system they have and he said he didn't have any/many problems with it.

Of course the less number of joints you have the smoother the train should run, but I do like hearing the clickety-clack of the train as it crosses the joints.

All my switches are manually thrown using Caboose Industries Ground Throws, but I did use the Z-Stuff machines on my old layout and had no problems.
Frank,

Go with Ross sectional track and switches. Ross offers a multitude of track radii, so there is probably no need to ever have to buy flex track. As for detail, no other mfg. glues and spikes rails to each tie of their sectional track and switches. Ross probably offers the most robust track and switches available.

Scale wise, the ties are oversize but when you factor all the benefits, this is easy to overlook. Do yourself justice and compare Ross to all other Systems out there for quality, looks and variety. They are a bit pricy but if you can afford them you will not be disappointed. Is should mention they are also made in the US.

Good luck. I am sure you will make a decision that works best for you.

Mike
I have both GG and RCS sectional track on my layout and this might be Ross curved track in this photo:



I wanted to show what the track looks like PLUS what I used for a subroadbed.

It's 3/8" thick rubber anti-fatigue mating I got at Lowes. It did make the trains run quieter. But when I put ballast on the noise crept back up a bit:



Still not too bad though and at least it looks like I'm trying to finish the layout!
Hi Frank, first I would like to say that I think you are very smart to give this much advanced consideration to perferred product lines before you start laying track.

I have Ross and Gravegrave switches along with Gargrave track on my layout and I have to admit they have served me well over the years. But when I saw photos of Rich Battista's Scale Track layout and read his write-up I started to ask around about it.
Even though I have been reading Rich's post for about ten years now and have always found his opinions to be very dependable old habits die hard so I had to get more input from others.
No matter who I ask in the hobby, dealers and 3RS people they all say that the MTH Scale Track system is the best 3RS system out there.

As I said in other post if I ever have to change my track system in the future I really think the MTH Scale Track is the way I would go.

It's a nice looking,well priced system with very good electrical characteristics.
Mario,
I just received the Black Diamond video and have watched it several times. The Scaletrax looks good and is reasonably priced. The problem I came up against is that my LHS has to order by bulk-case lots- in order for me to get what I need. No stores in the Columbus Ohio area had Scaletrax, just realtrax or Lionel. I have to go East to get what I want and the weather prevents me from doing that this weekend. T&K carry most track types so that is my next stop. I too have been leaning toward the Scaletrax for looks, cost, and ease of installing. I really like Atlas but the switch situation and cost have me unsure. I still want to look at actual parts before buying any track.
Frank
quote:
Originally posted by fgroza:
Mario,
I just received the Black Diamond video and have watched it several times. The Scaletrax looks good and is reasonably priced. The problem I came up against is that my LHS has to order by bulk-case lots- in order for me to get what I need. No stores in the Columbus Ohio area had Scaletrax, just realtrax or Lionel. I have to go East to get what I want and the weather prevents me from doing that this weekend. T&K carry most track types so that is my next stop. I too have been leaning toward the Scaletrax for looks, cost, and ease of installing. I really like Atlas but the switch situation and cost have me unsure. I still want to look at actual parts before buying any track.
Frank


May I suggest you learn about easements and plan them into your layout. They are not hard to bend in Gargraves. Personally, I do scale 1:1 prints for special bends like that. Makes for accurate track laying.

Mike
quote:
Originally posted by fgroza:
Mario,
I just received the Black Diamond video and have watched it several times. The Scaletrax looks good and is reasonably priced. The problem I came up against is that my LHS has to order by bulk-case lots- in order for me to get what I need. No stores in the Columbus Ohio area had Scaletrax, just realtrax or Lionel. I have to go East to get what I want and the weather prevents me from doing that this weekend. T&K carry most track types so that is my next stop. I too have been leaning toward the Scaletrax for looks, cost, and ease of installing. I really like Atlas but the switch situation and cost have me unsure. I still want to look at actual parts before buying any track.
Frank


Order from Justrains.com or jasonstrainshop.com
$8/flex piece and shipping for a box is only about $10.
quote:
Originally posted by fgroza:
Mario,
I just received the Black Diamond video and have watched it several times. The Scaletrax looks good and is reasonably priced. The problem I came up against is that my LHS has to order by bulk-case lots- in order for me to get what I need. ...
Frank


Sean Marchev at Doherty's Whistle Stop can get it for you. Also, it frequently appears on eBay through "Trainz." The key is that when you order the track, order enough of it to justify your shipping costs -- i.e., one or two sections of flex aren't worth the shipping cost.

Hope this helps.
Well here is what I came up with: for the loop around the tree, Fastrack. For the basement layout, Gargraves track with Ross switches. The GG/R seems to be the best by sooooo many of you here that I know without laying any beforehand, that it will work. I have about 150 ft of track coming and 6 Ross switches, just for a start. I'll gather more as time/money allows. The room needs to be built in the basement first then the framework. But first a design must be drawn to fit the area- 12 to 15ft wide by 18 to 24 ft long. Should be able to run some passenger sets on it. I want a two track main with sidings and switching areas so more than one guy can run. Yard will take up some room to store equipment. May use a "y" to turn engines.I hate reverse loops but many are being used, ac must wire different than dc/HO. I have to read up on wireing a layout as dc is all i have done in the past--conventional/DCC.
Thanks go to all of you that gave advise.

Frank
For what it's worth, I went with the Atlas system as it is the only track that is solid, nickel silver T-Rail, just like what they have been making for the H O folks for decades.

As far as the switches go, I do not rely on the factory wiring for continuity. I also power the closure rails with relays operated by the shunting of the outside rail by any wheelset. You will have this problem with any three rail switch, regardless of brand. It is simply a factor of how the closure rails must be isolated.

As far as flex track goes, the more flex track you can use instead of sectional track, again regardless of brand, the better looking your track will be, especially if you stagger the rail joints.

It is my personal opinion that when battery technology reaches a certain point, on board power will be the new norm and the center third rail will be history. You will already be into the best scale.

Good luck and have fun!!
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