Best way to check AA & AAA BATTERIES

I use Energizer rechargeable batteries charged in an external charger for my Cab 2 and they last quite a while.

How old are your rechargeable batteries? They have a lifespan.

When the life of the charge becomes noticeably shorter. Its time to replace them.

You may already have one. I use one similar to this;

You can buy these for $10 or less.

A few years ago I reviewed a couple photo sites and the consensuses was Panasonic eneloop pro is the best NiMH battery out there.  They hold a charge for a long time and last the longest time in use.  I have 6 sets of the AA size and they have been great.  I use them in digital cameras with flashes which is a high drain usage with the flash.  They cost more than other NiMH batteries but are worth it.

The only issue with all NiMH batteries is at full charge the voltage is only 1.2 volts or so.  This it too low for me to use them on my Cox Cable remote controls and maybe some other application.

I just us a Harbor Freight VOM to check voltage but most of my digital cameras have a low voltage indicator.  I do not have a need for train batteries as I run post war conventional control trains.

Charlie

RickO ,I have bought these a few months ago ,they are Tenergy also 1.2 v ,i get many months out of the duracell batteries in my cab 1 & cab 2,although i don't run trains very often.

Mustang ,I do have a meter but i have read that you need to put a load on the battery to get an accurate reading ,non sure the right way to do that  .

I don't spend that much time on the computer ,mostly in the evening checking e-mails & the O -gauge forum every night ,so the batteries shouldn't run down that quick . I just put the duracell batteries back in the keyboard ,so i will see if they last any longer.  

I've had a lot of Duracell batteries leak for me, and some research online indicates that they are indeed more prone to leaking than in the past due to some unspecified design or manufacturing change.  Since I don't like cleaning up after leaking batteries I'm using Rayovac or Energizer batteries right now.

Dale

Absolutely there must be a load on a battery to test it.  Harbor Freight has a bottom of the line tester (I've seen it between free and $7--right now it's $6.79 on line) which has a test position.  I find it works well for 1.5 volt and 9-volt batteries.  If you get rechargeables, get NiMH.

I don't know why your keyboard goes through batteries so fast.  My keyboards are USB cable.  The mice run months on an alkaline.

I don't know if Duracell rechargeables tend to leak.  But for alkalines I switched to Harbor Freight's top-of-the line, which are price attractive.

@Pennsylover posted:

I've had a lot of Duracell batteries leak for me, and some research online indicates that they are indeed more prone to leaking than in the past due to some unspecified design or manufacturing change.  Since I don't like cleaning up after leaking batteries I'm using Rayovac or Energizer batteries right now.

I've had tons of Duracell and Costco's Kirkland brand (made by Duracell) leak.  I have removed them from my inventory, never to buy them again!   The leakage warranty is a joke when you actually read the fine print, unless it's an expensive item, it'll cost you more to claim leakage damage than just replacing it.  If it's an item you can't get anymore, (think MTH remote), you're out of luck!

All alkaline batteries eventually leak (not just Duracell).

If you want disposable, single-use batteries that don't leak, then get some Energizer Lithium (not to be confused with "lithium ion").  For disposables, they're expensive but they don't leak, they don't self-discharge, and they have a 20 year shelf life.

I use Energizer Lithiums in things like my camera flashes and flashlights.  Those items may sit for months or years before I use them.  When I pick them up, I want them to work.  I don't want a dead rechargeable that has self-discharged or worse, a leaking alkaline.

That said, for my Legacy and DCS remotes, I use rechargeable NiMH.  For other household remotes, alkaline (get changed regularly).

I have been using duracell batteries for years in my cab 1& 2  & i have never had any leakage .

RJR ,i my batteries are  NI-MH . One thing i was thinking about is when my keyboard or mouse batteries are low ,a message pops up on my computer to let me know  maybe  there is a malfunction sending the message .I am going to take a look at the Harbor Freight meter.

Nothing worse than leaking batteries, that's why I remove batteries from anything of value when not in use. I just keep them in a small zip lock bag with the item I removed them from.

Gerald, by any chance does your keyboard have a switch to select between rechargeable & alkaline?   The former are 1.2 volts and the latter 1.5.  As to your not having had problems with Duracell (alkaline?), nothing beats being lucky.  I refuse tobuy that brand except for 9-volt for smoke alarms.

@MikeH posted:

All alkaline batteries eventually leak (not just Duracell).

Duracell batteries leak long before they're even remotely discharged, they're far and away the worst batteries for leaking I've ever used!

If you want disposable, single-use batteries that don't leak, then get some Energizer Lithium (not to be confused with "lithium ion").  For disposables, they're expensive but they don't leak, they don't self-discharge, and they have a 20 year shelf life.

While they have a great shelf life, they don't work for all applications as they have a higher voltage.  Apparently, that causes some devices to quickly run them down.  I tried the Energizer Lithium in my Verizon FIOS TV controller, they were dead in weeks!  They also run down much faster in the DCS Remote than plain Energizer alkaline batteries, so clearly the higher voltage is an issue there as well.

I use Energizer Lithiums in things like my camera flashes and flashlights.  Those items may sit for months or years before I use them.  When I pick them up, I want them to work.  I don't want a dead rechargeable that has self-discharged or worse, a leaking alkaline.

That said, for my Legacy and DCS remotes, I use rechargeable NiMH.  For other household remotes, alkaline (get changed regularly).

Flashlights are an excellent place for Lithium, and all my flashlights have either rechargeable Lithium or Energizer Lithium.  My Legacy and DCS remotes are using Tenergy low self-discharge NiMh, they have worked out well.

RJR, I don't know if it has a switch for rechargeable batteries ,i don't see any i looked in the owners manual & it just say AA batteries ,it doesn't mention which type .I looked on Harbor Freight  & i didn't see the tester you mention , i did see one for $ 5.99 it is called Thunder Bolt ,would this be ok to try ?

Tis is the one I referred to: https://www.harborfreight.com/...ultimeter-63759.html

I think their products vary from one part of US to another.  This has a battery test position,

RJR Thanks for the information ,i was going to order it & the shipping was  $ 7.00 ,so i decided i will take a ride to the store & get it ,it is only about 20 minutes away .Just for curiosity i checked to see when the last time i put these rechargeables in my living room TV remote & it was back on November 27  & still going strong ,so i think that the batteries are ok.

Personally, I feel alkalines last so long in remotes and modern mice that I don't bother with rechargeables.

By the way, if an alkaline battery leaks, try cleaning up with white vinegar and a Q-tip

You have to do that cleaning BEFORE the corrosion sets in on the contacts or it's too late.  I do clean them that way, but it doesn't always do the trick if it's gone too far.

Amen

I have quit using Duracell completely due to buying them and then wanting to install them and finding they are leaking NEW still in the package. It is not a case of you haven't had any leak but when they leak. As stated, do you want to loose whatever they ruined that might not be replaceable? BUT the choice is strictly yours.

Well, when my TV remote stops working, the first thing I do is wipe off both ends of each battery with a cloth and put the batteries back in the remote. I can sometimes get away with doing this more than once.

Dick

Not to hi-jack the thread, but Popular Mechanics has come out with a battery charger that re-charges disposable batteries ! - not just rechargeable ones. In other words, you can now recharge all the alkaline, NiCd and NiMh batteries you would ordinarily throw away (dispose of with your local recycler).

It works on all common size batteries and has a built in tester. It can also recharge them hundreds of times (depending on battery type). About the only caveat is that the batteries cannot be completely dead before re-charging. So when your computer or TV says your batteries are low, that's the time to recharge them.

It also comes with a couple of neat plastic cases that let you put a AA battery in them and convert them to C or D size batteries for temporary/emergency use.

Unless I'm missing something, this seems like a game changer.

Popular Mechanics Disposable and Rechargeable Battery P913N622 (bhphotovideo.com)

@Richie C. posted:

Not to hi-jack the thread, but Popular Mechanics has come out with a battery charger that re-charges disposable batteries ! - not just rechargeable ones. In other words, you can now recharge all the alkaline, NiCd and NiMh batteries you would ordinarily throw away (dispose of with your local recycler).

FWIW, these have been around for decades, however their actual effectiveness is somewhat questionable.

True enough, but this is the first I have seen by a "reputable" name brand company. It's only been on the market for a couple of months and, hopefully, there's been advancements in new technology.

Obviously, Popular Mechanics is having the device manufactured by someone else, but the fact that they have put their name and reputation on it should raise the potential that it is effective.

I'll let everyone know.

There are dozens of testers on the market, some batteries even come packaged with their own tester.   However my way of testing was to go Lowes and purchase a large box of Energizer batteries then go to every device in the house removing Duracell aa/aaa batteries and tossing them in the trash.  With Duracell it's not a matter "if" they will leak, only a matter of time and that time could be only two weeks.    I've thrown away my last Duracell ruined flashlight, remote, radio, tester, tool, etc, etc, etc,...      Also the "Famous" Duracell guarantee and warranty,...     they pay by sending you a discount coupon for more Duracell batteries,...      which will NEVER be used.

I would be very wary of using a device to try to charge batteries not designed for recharging.  Could be hazardous. Seems to me that if you can afford the outrageous prices for O gauge locos & rolling stock, you should be able to afford tre difference in price between alkalines and rechargeables, which should be good for 10 years or so

Now that this topic has morphed into battery leakage, I'm curious if anyone out there in Forumland has tried Harbor Freight's Thunderbolt (most-expensive) AAs & AAAs and has had leakage.  I picked up a few packs when on sale and, so far so good.

Having been bit by brand name batteries, I'm sticking to Energizers, they haven't leaked for me yet.  I have even run some of them flat and no leakage, usually Duracells would leak well before they were flat discharged.  Hard to believe Harbor Freight batteries would be better than the Energizer batteries.

We all have our own opinion as to which batteries will leak & which won't leak ,but i can only speak for myself about my experience ,as i have been using duracell ever since i got back into the hobby & that has been about 14 years without any leakage ,i would say that is a pretty good track record ,however until i figure out why my keyboard & mouse are going down so fast i will keep using the duracell batteries ,i just put two of them in my keyboard i will see if they last longer than the rechargeables .

GRJ, it is hard to believe, but maybe some Chinese factories are better than others.

I'll second the recommendation for the Panasonic Eneloop batteries.  Hold a charge for a long time and last a long time.

It boggles my mind that leaking batteries was a problem in the 1950s and continues to be a problem 70 years later.

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For a quick test of common batteries I have been using one of these for a few years.  Works really well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-vv9amqs8Q

@Gerald Marafioti posted:

We all have our own opinion as to which batteries will leak & which won't leak ,but i can only speak for myself about my experience ,as i have been using duracell ever since i got back into the hobby & that has been about 14 years without any leakage ,i would say that is a pretty good track record ,however until i figure out why my keyboard & mouse are going down so fast i will keep using the duracell batteries ,i just put two of them in my keyboard i will see if they last longer than the rechargeables .

True, but my opinion is based on multiple instances of fact, so that's not really just an opinion.   I have no idea how you made it 14 years, I never made it 14 months without a leaking incident!

Alkaline batteries are by far the worst to leak,  Period.  And it is not even close.  Next are normal zinc/carbon batteries.  NiMH are the least likely to leak and I have never had one leak, even after 10 years or so.  Alkaline batteries are by far the best in high drain uses.  But over months and even years of just setting around they will all leak given enough time.

It is a chemistry thing and alkaline batteries attack the steel battery jacket better than the other batteries chemistry.

The worst combination is an expensive Maglite flashlight, with aluminum cases, and alkaline batteries.  Alkyds will attack aluminum with vigor.  I will never use alkaline batteries in a Maglite flashlight anymore.  I have bought over 20 Maglite flashlights at garage sales, for little money, over the years (from 12 inches to 3 inches long) and have managed to ruin 3 or 4 with alkaline batteries.  I have tried to drill out the batteries with failure always resulting.  I use only zine/carbon in them now although the batteries expire out much faster with heavy or long usage.  Most flashlights just set around with batteries in them and if alkaline, they will most likely leak and ruin the flashlight or your remote, etc.

Charlie

Well, perhaps 6-10 years ago, Duracell batteries may well have been very good and didn't leak more than other major brands.  It seems like this is a more recent problem.  In any case, its Rayovac and Energizers for me right now.  And that can change in the future.

Dale

I’m wondering if some of the leakage problems had to do with counterfeits.

Counterfeit Duracell Coppertop AA / AAA Batteries | Consumer Alert (thecounterfeitreport.com)

I never gave much thought about what brand or type of battery to use, but after reading this thread, I’m going to look into it further before I buy any more batteries.  I found one site on the university of the internet that says zinc-carbons are the worst for leaks.

What are zinc-carbon batteries? – BatteryGuy.com Knowledge Base

I'm always amazed at the long, leak-free life of batteries that come with China-made electronics.  Replace them with Duracells and they won't last a year without leaking.  Energizers have proved reliable so far.

Over the past 5 yrs I too have had bad experiences with Duracell (AA, AAA) and Costco's Kirkland brand.  Both brands leaked; several of the Kirkland even started to leak prior to use and still in their original packaging.

Zinc-carbons soon leak after they go dead.  In middle of last century, Ray-o-Vac came out with steel encased zinc carbons that didn't leak for a long time after going dead.  Zinc carbons, including Ray-o-Vac damaged many Lionel F3 diesels when left inside the loco.  Back when Duracells were made by Mallory, they were excellent.  I do not think this is counterfeit batteries, because I would be fairly certain that Costco would take care, especially since they have direct agreement with Duracell to make Kirkland.

Last year I finally disposed of eight Ray-o-Vac fast rechargeable NiMHs that were over 15 years old.  I did get my money's worth