Dennis Holler posted:
terry hudon posted:

alittle wheeling and dealing and its mine,,,,truly a great piece ,I purchase a set awhile back just to get the operating track,,,i have never seen one for sale,,,now I just have to wire the track !20191204_124046

That darned track section is harder to find than the cars!!! The 492 baggage car track section ain’t easy either but I have a couple of those. I will have to get some repro guns for my armored car at some point. Yours is nice and clean!!

Could you guys post up some pics of these track sections? Some of us may have one and not even know it.

Dave

 

 

 

Saving Tinplate One Piece at a Time

BE8C5451-2B5A-4506-B8CE-69A512EF0762C9C3789F-7817-40D3-862E-DED8C98BD201A87ECE77-8E26-44D1-9D38-40ADF7D67F59DA5284BD-C283-4862-97B7-F73A38A75C47Here you go!! Be happy to trade some stuff if you have a couple!!  Thanks Dave!

I think and S gauge action car piece could be modified to work as well. Difference is postwar S the car contact was on the truck so the track contact is offset. These are centered because the car contact in centered too.

Dennis Holler If its old and broke, I like it

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Dennis Holler posted:

BE8C5451-2B5A-4506-B8CE-69A512EF0762C9C3789F-7817-40D3-862E-DED8C98BD201A87ECE77-8E26-44D1-9D38-40ADF7D67F59DA5284BD-C283-4862-97B7-F73A38A75C47Here you go!! Be happy to trade some stuff if you have a couple!!  Thanks Dave!

I think and S gauge action car piece could be modified to work as well. Difference is postwar S the car contact was on the truck so the track contact is offset. These are centered because the car contact in centered too.

here is my other one ,,just like yours,i have never seen the mail pickup car or the trackIMGP3292IMGP3289IMGP3290IMGP3291

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These that I have I actually bought the track lots they where in when I spied them. I knew what they looked like and so I noticed them. I’ve seen the action car piece by itself get bid up to $30-40 I think. Not me though, only if there is a bunch of other stuff in there as well lol.

Dennis Holler If its old and broke, I like it

POC914NUT posted:

Steve, I knew missing the meet would mess us up; you outbid me on the gg1. I'm glad it was you that got it! Eric

Hopefully I can get the motors working. They look much more solid than my other GG-1. Between you me and Bill we have a good collection of dead GG-1’s

Steve

Steve "Papa" Eastman

Yorba Linda, CA

Left Coast, Home of the lunatics

Jim Waterman posted:
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

Added a Std GG-1 project to the mix.

Steve

roberts gg1

Steve, Did you buy that one without the lead trucks?

Saw it on ebay - might be some work to finish it out. Shell looks nice though.

Jim, yes this the one from eBay last week. It’s going to my buddies house so I won’t get my hands it for a few days. I already have one with 3 cars but both motors are pretty bad. The motor castings on this look fair so hopefully I can make one run decently. I may take the worst shell and remoter it with a build a loco type if there is enough height.  That should give one I’m comfortable running.

Steve

Steve "Papa" Eastman

Yorba Linda, CA

Left Coast, Home of the lunatics

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:
Jim Waterman posted:
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

Added a Std GG-1 project to the mix.

Steve

roberts gg1

Steve, Did you buy that one without the lead trucks?

Saw it on ebay - might be some work to finish it out. Shell looks nice though.

Jim, yes this the one from eBay last week. It’s going to my buddies house so I won’t get my hands it for a few days. I already have one with 3 cars but both motors are pretty bad. The motor castings on this look fair so hopefully I can make one run decently. I may take the worst shell and remoter it with a build a loco type if there is enough height.  That should give one I’m comfortable running.

Steve

Steve, I repowered mine with a pair of NWSL G gauge 4 wheel power trucks, similar to the ones that are in the USA or AristoCraft diesels. The front and rear axles match up with the side frames, if you run it fast, you don't see the missing center axle. It runs nice and smooth. Had to make longer axles and reuse the worm wheels, but it's a nice runner and no worry about the cast frames going away. Some of these McCoy based drives were really bad.

Jim Waterman



 

I won a Lionel 14532 Century Club II PRR AA Sharknose and matching 24510 B unit  on eBay two weeks ago. Problem was It did not come with the original boxes and I was concerned about crushing the antenna on the A units.  Several years ago my granddaughter had a very nice box that her school supplies came in and I asked if she could get more boxes like it.  The next day when I picked her up she had 4 more and 4 more the next day. These boxes are very sturdy and just large enough to store an ABA set of diesels or a mid sized steam loco.   You may be able to find similar boxes at a elementary/middle school near you.  Attached photos of the box and the partitions I added.          j

103_7710

 

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WILL, great little prewar type control panel! Did you make this out of wood? Or is it tin? Really like the look of it with vintage knife controls and switch controllers! 

like the way it is in the corner pocket of the board.

leroof.

Send more photos of any updates on it. Thanks.

Warning- Lionel purists- turn away! At the TTOS meet today I found this snappily repainted A-A New York Central 2333 Lionel F unit pair. They had a decided "old school" look to them, with a lot of very nice hand striping work, which I'm guessing was done many years ago. I also didn't have any of these earlier pre-Magnetraction F's, the others I have being the 2343 and 2344. All these early Lionel F units were so nicely done that no doubt many hi-railers repainted them more to their liking. In this case the "Built by Lionel" label, the GM insignia, and the gray trucks were dispensed with, presumably to create a more "prototype" appearance. Some photos on the layout including a few of them alongside my Lionel 763-E semi-scale Hudson, enjoy!

Lionel NYC 2333 repaint 3Lionel NYC 2333 repaint 2Lionel NYC 2333 repaint 4Lionel NYC 2333 repaint

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Will posted:

New control panel for my prewar Christmas layout. My dad's switch controllers and knife switches. Eventually some label, name plates and more appropriate bulbs. I debated incorporating a prewar rheostat but decided against it.

IMG_8117IMG_8121 

Hi Will:

Great little control panel!! Are the switches original or new? I'm looking for reliable vintage looking knife switches and other Prewar Lionel switches.

Thanks, Michael

Leroof posted:

WILL, great little prewar type control panel! Did you make this out of wood? Or is it tin? Really like the look of it with vintage knife controls and switch controllers! 

like the way it is in the corner pocket of the board.

leroof.

Send more photos of any updates on it. Thanks.

Leroof, yes it is wood with a good old Rustoleum satin green finish. The knife switches and switch controllers are my Dad's original Lionel, and the bulb sockets are from old signals. Needs some cool number plates and if I can find a Lionel plate for under the controllers. Like I said, I thought bout a step transformer and rheostat, but decided on my ZW. So the "dispatcher" can control this little panel and the engineer the throttle.

This may also get a little fence or wall around it. The layout will eventually get a Lionel logo and molding trim. It is in the spirit of the 1920's catalogue layouts. I'll post photos along the way. At this point it will be next Christmas before it is finished.

BTW anyone using 012 switches is in for a masochistic experience. I think I took one apart about 20 times.

Will

 

Lirr Fan1 posted:
Will posted:

New control panel for my prewar Christmas layout. My dad's switch controllers and knife switches. Eventually some label, name plates and more appropriate bulbs. I debated incorporating a prewar rheostat but decided against it.

IMG_8117IMG_8121 

Hi Will:

Great little control panel!! Are the switches original or new? I'm looking for reliable vintage looking knife switches and other Prewar Lionel switches.

Thanks, Michael

All original from my Dad. The switches are a 012s, a nightmare to get working with the tiny wires from the solenoids which are always breaking. It took 4 switches to make 2 and the chrome motor cover is def a bit rust pitted. It was tempting to just have loops and no switches.

 

One of the wraps I made for my Christmas trains this year. The basic car bodies were drawn in MS Paint and imported into MS PowerPoint for lettering. With a little editing, this can be reprinted turn this Marx Pennsy boxcar into a New York Central Pacemaker car. The reddish brown Jerusalem & Northern gondola wrap can easily be changed to Norfolk & Western and reprinted as well.

IMG_20191215_200204

IMG_20191215_200148

Andy

 

When they were passing out brains, I thought they said trains and I asked for a slow one.

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MNCW posted:

Plain heresy! 

Tom 

"change a Pennsy car into a Central???? Not sure of that's even leagal......you just might get some coal in your stocking."

 

 

Hey, I could make it Penn Central ya know.

Andy

 

When they were passing out brains, I thought they said trains and I asked for a slow one.

Trainlover160 posted:
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

Was stunned to find this at Sunday’s TTOS meet, new in the box. 

Steve

6F1052CB-A681-4A80-8EFA-B1247370F926

Wow!! Wonder why they sold?!  True find for sure!

Joe Gozzo

The guy has been selling for months. It was mostly his dads collection. Tons of great stuff, luckily it’s stuff I already have. Sure wish he had the cars to go with it.

Steve

Steve "Papa" Eastman

Yorba Linda, CA

Left Coast, Home of the lunatics

POC914NUT posted:

The box probably isn't nearly as exciting as what is inside...lets see it already! Lol

 

Maybe Friday Eric. Neuro tomorrow an IVIG on Thursday plus getting the place ready to host a layout tour on the 27th. Maybe I’ll run it at the Jan SW meet.

Steve

 

Steve "Papa" Eastman

Yorba Linda, CA

Left Coast, Home of the lunatics

Not exactly tinplate but it is going on my Standard Gauge layout so I guess it counts. I bought this Hubley 494 at a train show recently for $12.00. The cab was white and red and the dump bed was green. The paint was chipped and worn. I redid it in Almond, Blue and Black, now it looks as good as new ( and I like the colors better).  After seeing wjhat these go for On that auction site I'm almost tempted to list it and make some money.

20191218_17533320191218_17534020191218_175355

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Last Sunday I went to a train show in Montvale NJ.

Did my rounds and saw this 253 with a price tag of $45.00.
The engine looked to be in rough shape as the pick-up needs to be replaced, wheels need to be replaced and one frame shell mounting tab is broken off. Plus it needs new headlights whistle and new brass trim on the top.
Replacement wheels and pickup are around $55.00, so for $45.00 is was not worth it plus the wheels were so swollen I could not spin them. Now here the wire comes off the field it was all gummy with this black go, thought that the motor may be bad/burnt too. Any way, as I made my way doing several rounds within two hours , I noticed that the dealer was dropping the price $45/$40/$35/$25 then $20. When I saw it listed at $20.00, I asked him if he would take $15.00 and he did

Once home, I took it apart cleaned the black goop of which was some type of old electrical tape. Un-soldered the old wire and soldered some new wires to the motor, spread the wheels a little so it would spin and tried it with power, it ran and the motor does run good.
I have a bunch of new wheels and will re-wheel it will get a new unassembled pick up (from Henning's) and apply the old badge (after I remove it and clean it) to it.
The reversing switch is good.
Now all I need is a donor 253 chassis/frame.
The fun part is the hunt and I m sure that there is one out there.

Question on the motor brush and springs, the brushes in this motor do not have a slot on the top but there is a hole on the side of the brush where the spring goes in, is this typical? I have not seen this before.

RonH

Don't Junk it, Make it Work!

 

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Ron,

The brush spring is common for that motor and might be original. If reusing the old parts be careful to get the brush aligned as it was. They sometimes wear unevenly to the commutator face and won't make good contact if rotated 180. If you need an old frame let me know, have one around somewhere.

John

If it was easy, anybody could do it!

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