Buy/Make Anything Cool Lately (Tinplate Version)

Steamer posted:

I'd be tempted to get that one running and leave as is.

Giving it a shot as I type. So far so good got the motor all apart except one idler/reduction gear, letting hat one soak.   

Work in progress, but you’ll get the idea

I like that. How did you mount the coupler? My 262 still needs a pilot.

Steamer posted:

I like that. How did you mount the coupler? My 262 still needs a pilot.

The coupler isn’t mounted yet.  The new apron on the front took a few hours to knock out as I am really tooled for wood work, not metal.  The top portion is really long, it actually goes through the opening in the steam chest.  I am trying to duplicate the dual swivel set up 2800 series freight cars.  I think I have enough rivets to do the job.  I will need to drill a partial hole in the underside of the pilot deck of the engine to accept the tang on the coupler.  I am need to make a pivot link from the rear hole to the hole on the coupler.  This needs to be a little thicker than the material I made the new pilot out of.  I try to cut up a ss outlet cover I had laying around, but my drill bit kept walking sideways.  I have some more work to do for sure

Steamer posted:

I like that. How did you mount the coupler? My 262 still needs a pilot.

FYI, I don’t have a 262e, but I do have a 261e, which I believe is very similar.  The 261e pilot is cast as part of the frame and I suspect the 262e is the same.  On a 260e, or 263e like mine, the pilot is a separate piece held on with two screws.  On a 261 or 262 a different approach would be needed.

  I'd try to mount as close to wheels as you can.

  Your geometry differs, but adding a coupler to a Generals body, it would get pulled off the rails in curves double heading or pushed itself off pushing a heavy car.  Mounting to the pilot truck stopped it. All the lateral forces go to those pilot wheel flanges now.

Like I said totally different geometry, a Gen. has close set drivers at the rear so the nose becomes a long lever, but you might want to rig things for a test before total commitment & holes.

I still cant push well because the coupler is long and swings to the side very easily, binding at couplers (claw) and derailing the cars truck at times.  But double heading was what I was after, so..."sold". 

 Looks good though. Nice even rolls. Always sand, clean, AND primer metal eh Maybe even a brush coat of black(?) on the edges before the finish coat. Edges chip easier and hold less paint at the tip of the "point(s)" of edges.

and my latest hair brain idea.....

I got a 225E shell in a junk deal several years ago with a chunk broken out of the cab.

thought about finding a busted shell for the window section, but haven't yet.

I already have a complete 225E....so the wheels have turned on different ideas. The Wife bought a 675 shell for me at an antique shop a few months ago.

I started to do up another K4, but since I already have four 675/2025/2035s, I was thinking of doing something different. 

so the dremel came out.......

It will get a fourth driving axle, probably end up a 4-8-2 or 4? And I've been wanting to do another Vandy tender. 

Dave, 

  I bet you can easily repair that cab with Evergreen sheet styrene.

Tom

Tom...take another look at the last two pics.......  way beyond that now....

Steamer posted:

and my latest hair brain idea.....

I got a 225E shell in a junk deal several years ago with a chunk broken out of the cab.

thought about finding a busted shell for the window section, but haven't yet.

I already have a complete 225E....so the wheels have turned on different ideas. The Wife bought a 675 shell for me at an antique shop a few months ago.

I started to do up another K4, but since I already have four 675/2025/2035s, I was thinking of doing something different. 

so the dremel came out.......

It will get a fourth driving axle, probably end up a 4-8-2 or 4? And I've been wanting to do another Vandy tender. 

I love it Dave!  Turn that imagination loose!!!! 

Steamer posted:

Tom...take another look at the last two pics.......  way beyond that now....

What can I say that Robin hasn't said better?

Good luck,

Tom

he left out 

HOLY HACKSAW!!  

Fix the cab, slap a noze & chest back on.. for a stubby 0-4-0/0-4-2/2-4-0. .  (I think the Genral frames have the smallest steam wheelbase)$-? 

  Maybe skip the stack and call it a fireless?

  Cut the box off and do a styrene filler there if youd feel better.

jhz563 posted:

Work in progress, but you’ll get the idea

Very nice 262!!! I'm not really into steam- prefer electrical and diesel- BUT this guy has been at my buddy's shop and has caught my eye along with a Royal Blue. Very Nice piece and love the front mounted coupler- very well put together!

Went to a train show/swap meet in Hamburg PA yesterday- wish I would've went earlier but I was waiting on my dad. Regardless- got a few nice pieces of tin!:

1st off Brimtoy Station:

Next from bottom left to top right: Marx Block Signal, AF prewar 8 Wheel 1116(works decently for transitions between Ives, Bing,Flyer, Marx & Lionel Slot &Latch couplers), Marx Electric prewar CV(LOVE THIS GUY!) Mizuno 'East West' Caboose, All Wooden Kit Northern Refrigetertor Car CO.-Maker unknown(INFO Appreciated!). In the back- Marx floodlight tower.

Marx 567 Side Dump($5) & Marx Colorado & Southern R.R. Refrigerator car(20 less than the price at an LHS!)

FINALLY!!! Marx Twin AA Southern Pacific 6000. Good Lord do I love how this guy moves on the tracks- so much so that 2 of my 3 lines are about to become Tin Only!

The Marx 6000 SP with a previous dummy unit in addition to the European cars I picked up(close-ups and descriptions following up below)

Can't recall if this is a Bing, Bubg or a Hornby? The coupler in the foreground is the original coupler- tried to change how it was facing(previously faced upwards) but it broke. Replaced it with a Marx coupler initially as well as a couple from the Mizuno caboose. Ended up removing both couplers from the Mizuno Caboose to fit on to this guy and it looks great and fits as a great transition piece. Kicking myself for not picking up the Blue 2nd and 3rd class coach but it had no couplers. Regardless, really like this car- can anyone tell me who the maker is? My guess is Karl Bub

Love this guy! Already have a Bing baggage car(10/565- 1931) w/ Auto Couplers as well as Marklin 17280. This is my first car with a KB/BW combined logo(look closely to the right of the door on the far left- there's a "KB(above a)"BW") and has "Made in Bavaria" Litho'd on the top end on the "right side"(in terms of this picture orientation)

Hornby by Meccano Pullman "Marjorie". Clearly not in great condition but I think it looks really cool and was close to buying one on eBay a couple months back(different car name)

Corgi Renault from Corgi Heritage Classics collection. My Grandpa started my brother and I off with this collection,  w now have 3 of the 5. Love these guys.

Finally, was going back and forth between the engine which I've had in my sights for quite sometime- 1.)an Ives 3258(Yellow Body, Green Roof) with 4 cars(very reasonably priced) a then 2.) a Hornby SNCF 20v electric outline French Market. Was going to pull the trigger on the Hornby so I could have an engine that goes with my European cars with that type of coupler(have been using my Lionel 254e that has been fitting with the latch/slot coupler and actually does hooks up quite well). Bench tested the Hornby- but it didn't move- no noise, nada.

nice finds Steve. Our oldest daughter's name is Marjorie. It was  impossible to find anything with her name on it when she was growing up...the little licence plates for the bicycle, ,Marjorie's Room, etc. A couple years ago a forum member posted a pic of the Hornby Marjorie, and while he didn't want to sell his, his tipped me off to one on da bay. It sit's in her office now.

@StevefromPA  prewar in general used more voltage. 

  Look at the prewar Z for example, it tops out at 25v. A later ZW is 20v. (The Z counted on external whistle boxes that ate 5v. The ZW separates 5v worth of windings and sends it straight to the internal whistle circuit, leaving 20v worth of windings for the throttles/acc..)

  The other difference is, it is likely it was a 50hz system there, but in the states we mostly use 60hz.  Good news is that the 50hz motors characteristics on 60hz should all improve slightly.  

  The question is would the 20v rating be like saying our motors are a 12v (cruising speed, most efficient), or 20v (max "safe" voltage)¿? ; Because there were 40-50v trains...which I imagine would run at slowish prototypical speed at 20v.    I.e. it may be half speed at full throttle, or will run just like most prewar, but it should run. With lite tin behind it, you'd be ok even if it was high volt I think.

StevefromPA posted:

 

2.) a Hornby SNCF 20v electric outline French Market. Was going to pull the trigger on the Hornby so I could have an engine that goes with my European cars with that type of coupler(have been using my Lionel 254e that has been fitting with the latch/slot coupler and actually does hooks up quite well). Bench tested the Hornby- but it didn't move- no noise, nada.

---

 

Most French Hornby 20V are DC with permanent magnet, so will not move on an AC transformer.

Regards

Fred

Thank you @sncf231e for that information- I did test it DC(hope I pressed the correct switch at the testing table)- and there was nothing going. The seller didn't seem very confident that it would work but said he was going to tinker with it and would be back for the next meet it July. and thank you @Adriatic for your insight and asking the questions which I've been wanting to ask as they relate to  a Marklin baggage car I acquired some weeks ago- think I'm gonna make another thread for it.