Skip to main content

jhz563 posted:

Fresh from the USPS - my first tinplate diesel

IMG_2743[1]

It looks better than received already, after 60 seconds worth of scrubbing with a baby wipe!  Looking forward to try it out, and then converting the coupler to something a little more interchangeable.

Behemoths, like the Unique Art Rock Islands

unique 2000 rock island pair

 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • unique 2000 rock island pair
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

Been a few Std Gauge Roberts Lines trolleys on the bay lately, but this one needs a bit tlc, just up my alley. Pretty straight and will clean up nicely. The window inserts are loose, I’ll just remove them and call it a summer trolley. Both are unpowered so the lead unit will get a Keeler truck mount motor. Another project.

Steve

Those are just too cool Steve....

Mike 

 

mackb4 posted:
Greg J. Turinetti posted:
mackb4 posted:

Pretty sure it A. F. ,but what can anyone tell me.

I picked it up at a flea market for $5.00. It's of course been painted and an awful decal added, but I couldn't pass it up.15265488693704154407857327763837

You have an American Flyer #2005 Triangle Light from 1935 - 1939.

It comes in 2 colors

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Thanks for the information. 

So is the signal just merely a light that is for aesthetic purposes, or am I missing some sort of lock-on that controls the signal and train movement  ?

Here is the illustration and description from page 16 of the 1936 catalog. (My earlier information that the triangle light appeared in the catalog beginning in 1935 is incorrect.  It first appears in the 1936 catalog.)  

                                    

There is no lock-on needed, the light is operated manually.  I think that the only thing that you are missing is an annoying little sister or brother who needed to be kept busy changing the color of the light while you run your trains. That's why this "New popular signal is almost a necessity for your railroad." 

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Bought a Feb. 1949 issue of "The Model  Craftsman", 100% model railroading it says on the cover. Really fun to read. Cost all of 35 cents, new, and full of ads and info. A Cleveland dealer lists some Lionel prices which seem so low but in 1949 there were a lot of people earning 90 cents per hour. A Lionel Scout set #1111 cost $15.95 with a transformer and 3 cars.  A lot f kit bashing and scratch building went on in those days so there are a lot of ads for parts. There were still shortages from WW II to deal with.

Well, I have always wanted to build a Tom Snyder inspired layout using Gargraves track, however they quit making standard preformed radius track. They only offer the flex track, and I did not want to bend my own. Tubular is not offered in O84, so I decided to make my own from STD84. I have 9 out 16 made so far. Still have some tweaking to do but wanted to share.

Joe Gozzo

20180519_20252720180519_202517

Attachments

Images (2)
  • 20180519_202527
  • 20180519_202517

A couple of recently acquired O gauge goodies are seen in the attached photos-

A Sakai (Japan) A-48000 streamlined steam loco. Needed a replacement for a missing brush and some wires re-soldered/replaced and runs great. It also needed a broken off corner on the cab roof re-glued (fortunately the seller provided it with the loco). Like the Sakai electric boxcab loco I posted pics of a few weeks ago, this one also uses square motor brushes, so I cut one out of a big brush remnant I had in the junk box.  It has quite a bit of paint loss, so at some point I'll have to decide whether to "dab" or repaint. 

A Bing electric outline loco, not sure on the number on this one. It's also running after a little maintenance. 

The Bing loco is pulling an interesting set of brown Flyer Columbia passenger cars; a 3000 baggage car and two 3001 "Columbia" Pullmans. The 3001 at the rear of the train has the simulated round tail lights and the type III trucks (Ca. 1922-25) , the other two cars have Type IV trucks (Ca. 1924-27). The earlier car is in very nice shape, the other two have a bit of "play wear", although they looked better after I cleaned and polished them. The earlier car just got a cleaning.

Sakai streamlined steam locoBing loco with Flyer Columbia cars 3Bing loco with Flyer Columbia carsBing loco with Flyer Columbia cars 2

Attachments

Images (4)
  • Sakai streamlined steam loco
  • Bing loco with Flyer Columbia cars 3
  • Bing loco with Flyer Columbia cars
  • Bing loco with Flyer Columbia cars 2
Last edited by John Smatlak
John Smatlak posted:

Unknown to me- although I assume it is Postwar? The model designation is A48000. Stamped on the pickup is "Made in Japan". On the Sakai page of the Binns Road toy train website, http://www.binnsroad.co.uk/railways/sakai/index.html they note a similar engine with "Made in Occupied Japan" stamped on the pickup, but the picture isn't high enough resolution to see that. 

John, Sold of all my Sakai a few years ago except the A48000 and tender and also a Banjo type with no tender. Someone had repainted the A48000 and tender black. I repainted the tender, but never got around to the loco. I also had decals made for the tender.......................someday I'll get it done and sell them.

Steve

Here is my latest find, or perhaps revelation. I don't know if anyone is interested, but I have

talked about how all the Marx and AF streamliners from the 30's era all used leftover

steam type motors with spoked wheels for power, cheap, but unrealistic. For Marx this

continued into the postwar era apparently as a lot of the smaller diesels use steam type

motors. I recently saw a Marx 6000 Southern Pacific diesel and it actually had disk wheels. 

Granted it was still on the cheap type motor, but a step in the right direction. I bought one on the 

bay. I took the motor out and tried it in an AF Comet. As we used to say in my hot rod days,

it was bolt in. I set the Comet body on the marx motor aligned the holes and put the 

screw in. Hooked up the headlight, and everything ran fine. Modern motor now, more realistic

and best is an upgraded reverse unit. This mean of course that it will fit AF tinplate zephyrs

and green diamonds.IMG_20180519_213941IMG_20180519_213937IMG_20180519_214004IMG_20180519_214117IMG_20180519_214130IMG_20180519_214210IMG_20180519_214253IMG_20180519_214423

Attachments

Images (8)
  • IMG_20180519_213941
  • IMG_20180519_213937
  • IMG_20180519_214004
  • IMG_20180519_214117
  • IMG_20180519_214130
  • IMG_20180519_214210
  • IMG_20180519_214253
  • IMG_20180519_214423
John Smatlak posted:

Unknown to me- although I assume it is Postwar? The model designation is A48000. Stamped on the pickup is "Made in Japan". On the Sakai page of the Binns Road toy train website, http://www.binnsroad.co.uk/railways/sakai/index.html they note a similar engine with "Made in Occupied Japan" stamped on the pickup, but the picture isn't high enough resolution to see that. 

Here is a picture with the text on the pickup from my Sakai A-48000:

My loco body is in a very good condition, but the wheels were changed. 

It does run:

Regards

Fred

Attachments

Images (2)
  • mceclip0
  • mceclip1

Last Christmas Santa Claus brought a standard gauge Rich Art McKeen to our house; an awesome model but with one curious omission. All McKeen motor cars were originally built with a center headlight on their knife-edge front end. It was part of their defining visual character- adding to that Jules Verne "20,000 Leagues Under the Sea" look of the thing. For some reason this was omitted from the model, but this has now been rectified on ours- a center headlight has been added along with a red marker bulb inside the rear end. Enjoy.

Rich Art McKeen with added nose headlightRich Art McKeen with added nose headlight 2Rich Art McKeen with added nose headlight 3

A photo of the McKeen as received, showing what it looked like before the nose headlight was added:

McKeen in living room

Attachments

Images (4)
  • Rich Art McKeen with added nose headlight
  • Rich Art McKeen with added nose headlight 2
  • Rich Art McKeen with added nose headlight 3
  • McKeen in living room
Videos (1)
McKeen 5-20-18
jhz563 posted:

Sncf231e- did you put those red wheels on yourself?  Those are really nice, any idea where they came from?

No, I did not put these red wheels on myself. I bought it like that from someone who owned it a long time and did not know much about it, he was surprised when I told him the wheels were not original. I just oiled it a bit and it went very good.

Regards

Fred

beardog posted:

Nice, the Nevada State Railroad Museum just down  the street from me has a fully restored and

operational Mckeen car that they operate most weekends.

Yes- it's awesome! I visited in 2011 and got to ride it, and I also visited while restoration was underway, what a project that was. Way back I also saw the McKeen body once when it was still inside the local hardware store! NSRM is a great museum.

McKeen crossingMcKeen interior 4McKeen interior compartmentMcKeen turntable 1NSRM 2NSRM 3

Attachments

Images (6)
  • McKeen crossing
  • NSRM 3
  • McKeen turntable 1
  • McKeen interior 4
  • McKeen interior compartment
  • NSRM 2
Last edited by John Smatlak

I have a suggestion on adding ties. Measure your ties, then get weatherstripping that is closest to the 

dimension, cut the weather stripping to length, stick it to your layout and set the track on top of it. 

Another option, cut scraps of wood to the size of your ties, soak them in ordinary RIT dye for a day or two.

Then hot glue them to your track. Both these options are pretty cheap and look good, especially if

you ballast the track. 

Trainlover160 posted:

Well, I have always wanted to build a Tom Snyder inspired layout using Gargraves track, however they quit making standard preformed radius track. They only offer the flex track, and I did not want to bend my own. Tubular is not offered in O84, so I decided to make my own from STD84. I have 9 out 16 made so far. Still have some tweaking to do but wanted to share.

Joe Gozzo

20180519_20252720180519_202517

Joe, if you run out of ties, the USA Track guys make a similar product  with different radii.

Jim

Dennis Holler posted:
Dennis Holler posted:
Jim Waterman posted:
George S posted:
Dennis Holler posted:

Got a couple of cars to repaint, sorry, I needed a 2814 Reefer for my new Goetz decals, much like the one George created. Now I just have to find the paint.  Haven't located the Krylon Georgia red clay color locally yet!

mth purple 2814R

I got the Krylon Covermaxx Gloss Georgia Clay from Amazon.  Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-...eorgia/dp/B013LT5BYQ

only one left in stock!

George

So is that 'Georgia Clay' color a good match for 'Boxcar Red' (what Floquil used to call that brownish color that many boxcars were painted in the 40's and early 50's)? Anybody got a good rattle can match for PRR Tuscan Red (or Brunswick Green for that matter?)

Jim

Judging from George's first reefer repaint, the Georgia clay looks to be a pretty decent flat brown/red like as used as boxcar red or reefer red.  On the PRR colors, I've still not seen anything real close.  I do have some of the FLoquil colors for the red and green but have yet to try and air brush them.

Maybe all the PRR nutz out there could talk Harry Henning into working up colors for both PRR red and green

I use the Scalecoat PRR Tuscan and Brunswick Green paints - good match to the prototype.

Jim

beardog posted:

I have a suggestion on adding ties. Measure your ties, then get weatherstripping that is closest to the 

dimension, cut the weather stripping to length, stick it to your layout and set the track on top of it. 

Another option, cut scraps of wood to the size of your ties, soak them in ordinary RIT dye for a day or two.

Then hot glue them to your track. Both these options are pretty cheap and look good, especially if

you ballast the track. 

Duly noted BearDog. Great suggestions. I'll probably try both and see which I like best...

Mike 

LoadMaster posted:

TrainLover160, I'm new around here so forgive my ignorance but, where did you get those ties? Did you make them yourself or are they commercially available?

Mike   

Loadmaster,

I bought the ogauge ties new  on ebay. 48 new ties with insulators for $23.99. I made O84 radius from USA STD84. Repurposed std ties on my std42 ti strengthen it. Kirk at USA TRACK will sell you std ties and insulators. I bought extra insulators since I do not like reusing them. Good thing as most of them were ripped.

Hope this answers what you needed.

Joe Gozzo

Been working on this a while.  Bought a junker 440 Signal bridge.  ... the idea was to copy (Hojack?) and make some nifty cantilevered signals. Measured twice and cut once, stripping the old paint was a bear, priming, painting.  Rewiring still to come .

But... they turned out pretty well.  Colors are rattle cans from Menards.  the terra cotta is spot on.

 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Signal

I love signals, my layout doesn't have any but I really like them. Nice work. We were "antiquing", more like garage sales but found an Ertl made bank  that ws a freight wagon with  tank in the back. It was the kind of thing I look for now for my layout. Was going to be a beer wagon but ditched the tank, the horses and canopy over the front seat. Just a freight wagon now with my own, smaller horses. Did find a Flying Yankee Lionel 617 set that I like but debating that. Really want it but would have to look at its condition closer especially zinc pest.

Rob English posted:

Been working on this a while.  Bought a junker 440 Signal bridge.  ... the idea was to copy (Hojack?) and make some nifty cantilevered signals. Measured twice and cut once, stripping the old paint was a bear, priming, painting.  Rewiring still to come .

But... they turned out pretty well.  Colors are rattle cans from Menards.  the terra cotta is spot on.

 

 

That was a nifty idea. Looking good...

Mike 

Rob English posted:

Been working on this a while.  Bought a junker 440 Signal bridge.  ... the idea was to copy (Hojack?) and make some nifty cantilevered signals. Measured twice and cut once, stripping the old paint was a bear, priming, painting.  Rewiring still to come .

But... they turned out pretty well.  Colors are rattle cans from Menards.  the terra cotta is spot on.

 

Beautiful job Rob, and love the idea!!.  Makes me want to try myself, however, I cant think of a time that I have ever seen a basket case 440 Signal at a train show or on the internet.

Joe Gozzo

Dennis Holler posted:

I've always had a thing for AF prewar.  They made some great trains in addition to the Challenger above.IMG_0035IMG_0037

Dennis, these are really nice.  what numbers are they? - I can't tell from the pictures.  They look like they have a postwar vibe as opposed to prewar tin.  (Challenger - what Challenger? I see a northern marked for UP, unless this is a flyer thing I don't know about)

Greg,

 I tend to like the larger, non-streamlined pieces.  And I am steadfastly sticking to O gauge. (For as long as I can hold out)

What are the ones from your picture I put red boxes around?

The last thing is that I prefer 6 and 7 cars or more in my trains as opposed to short 3 car trains.  So if any of these are considered to be better pullers than others please let me know.  

Thank guys and gals

Attachments

Images (1)
  • mceclip0
jhz563 posted:

Greg,

 I tend to like the larger, non-streamlined pieces.  And I am steadfastly sticking to O gauge. (For as long as I can hold out)

What are the ones from your picture I put red boxes around?

The last thing is that I prefer 6 and 7 cars or more in my trains as opposed to short 3 car trains.  So if any of these are considered to be better pullers than others please let me know.  

Thank guys and gals

JHZ563,

You ask what on the surface sounds like a simple question, however we run into the craziness of American Flyer's numbering system.  Here goes:

The top engine and its tender are known as the 4622-6 Combination (1938).

4322-6 Type XV Locomotive (Type XV was used as an Atlantic or a Pacific - confusing eh?)

1623 Type XIII tender

Lower engine and tender are the 1680 Combination  (1936-1937)

1681 Type XII Locomotive  (Type XII boiler casting is what Flyer called their Hudson)

1623 Type XII tender

This is the 3310 engine and tender combination (1934)

3315 Type IX locomotive   (it has a ringing bell and those snazzy brass running boards)

3194 Type IX tender (only available in 1934)

I have changed the display since the photo that I posted was taken.  I am not sure which engine was in front of the 3315.  I can't quite make it out in the photo and I don't remember what I had there.    It is matched up in a box somewhere with appropriate passenger cars.

As far as pulling power; most of these engines are over 75 years old, so I would say that it depends on how well they are maintained and serviced.  I think that with work any of them could pull a consist of the length that you describe.  However, remember that my main interest is collecting and identifying equipment and learning its history.  I am not primarily an operator.  I always consider it a bonus when an example of an engine that I have acquired runs well.  I have raised my standard for buying a prewar engine since I began collecting.  If it doesn't run I will think twice about buying it.  There are still thousands of them out there.  Others might comment on their experience with the pulling power of Flyer engines.

I hope this answers some of your questions.

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

 

jhz563 posted:
Dennis Holler posted:

I've always had a thing for AF prewar.  They made some great trains in addition to the Challenger above.IMG_0035IMG_0037

Dennis, these are really nice.  what numbers are they? - I can't tell from the pictures.  They look like they have a postwar vibe as opposed to prewar tin.  (Challenger - what Challenger? I see a northern marked for UP, unless this is a flyer thing I don't know about)

Greg,

 I tend to like the larger, non-streamlined pieces.  And I am steadfastly sticking to O gauge. (For as long as I can hold out)

What are the ones from your picture I put red boxes around?

The last thing is that I prefer 6 and 7 cars or more in my trains as opposed to short 3 car trains.  So if any of these are considered to be better pullers than others please let me know.  

Thank guys and gals

Yeah, Flyer called that Northern a Challenger.  I have the early numbered 806 on the cab(534) catalog number. My engines above are a 559 which was the forefather of the postwar 312 in S gauge and behind that is a 531 Hudson which turn into the S gauge 322. 

These are all called 3/16ths O Flyer by many of us and I've discovered over time that quite a few of us have some 3/16ths O Flyer.  It's unique and interesting to me.

Picked up this neat 263E motor that someone had installed scale drive wheels on.  The cool thing is that they machined the new axles to use the normal steel gear so the motor would operate as original.  Got this and three other prewar motors for about $6. I really wanted to use the motor to build another 263E, but they builder did a nice job on the wheel install.  I might take a look at moving them to something more common like a 249E frame so the 263E can be, well.. a 263E... I'll have to look again, but it almost looks like it has been two railed as well.

 

IMG_4030IMG_4031IMG_4032IMG_4033

Attachments

Images (4)
  • IMG_4030
  • IMG_4031
  • IMG_4032
  • IMG_4033

Santa postman has been busy the last few days augmenting the streamliner collection. 

The small Joustra set in the foreground is a life lesson. "Don't bid on french lanquage

auctions when you have been drinking whiskey". All my other Joustra streamliners

are O gauge, no one mentioned they made S gauge too. 

Shown are an Amt 3160 Santa Fe coach, a Marx M10005 in red and silver, a Hafner red and 

chrome set and the Joustra set. IMG_20180620_163449

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_20180620_163449

I found these pieces laying on the ground at a garage sale, the woman said "take them. 

When I got home I found it on the internet. This has to be one of the most insidious

devices ever devised to torture parents. Now I know why it is incomplete, broken and 

she gave it to me. It is a lionel railroad crossing savings bank. When a child puts a coin

in it, the lights flash, bells go off, and it whistles. Give one of these to the kids of the

neighbor you dislike along with a couple hundred pennies. 

There is a youtube video of it. IMG_20180620_163521

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_20180620_163521
Rob English posted:

Been working on this a while.  Bought a junker 440 Signal bridge.  ... the idea was to copy (Hojack?) and make some nifty cantilevered signals. Measured twice and cut once, stripping the old paint was a bear, priming, painting.  Rewiring still to come .

But... they turned out pretty well.  Colors are rattle cans from Menards.  the terra cotta is spot on.

 

I think thats a great idea and job !   I just might have to make one for myself.

Two interesting Bing items I picked up recently; a Bing station "facade" and a Bing crane. After receiving the station and researching it, I came to the realization that it is supposed to have a train shed (canopy) behind it, see attached photo from the internet. But it also works well as a "flat". Posed with these items in two of the photos is my Marklin CS66/13020 electric loco.

Bing station facadeMarklin loco and Bing 10-638 craneMarklin loco and Bing station facade974012_1_x

Attachments

Images (4)
  • Bing station facade
  • Marklin loco and Bing 10-638 crane
  • Marklin loco and Bing station facade
  • 974012_1_x

John S - nice finds!  That Marklin engine is interesting, I have never seen a 4-4-2 electric before.

Recently I picked up this Flyer set, which I will admit I know little about and would love some more info

IMG_3086[1]IMG_3087[1]IMG_3088[1]IMG_3089[1]

Three of the four cars had working lights bulbs!  The one that didn't was missing the bulb, and it has a darker colored roof that doesn't match the other three.  The curly Q couplers are kinda neat, it's shame they don't really mate with anything else.

The engine light bulb is out but otherwise the loco is in good shape.  Even the brush plate has been recently cleaned when I received it. 

Attachments

Images (4)
  • IMG_3086[1]
  • IMG_3087[1]
  • IMG_3088[1]
  • IMG_3089[1]

Neat find- Prewar Flyer is very cool. Looking in Greenberg's guide to American Flyer Prewar O Gauge (page 62), it appears your new engine is a  1938 4615-4 / 4315-4 Type XVI locomotive with 3301 Type VI tender. Would have been easier if they just put numbers on the engines! I'm not a Prewar Flyer expert, but that appears to be it based on the photo in the book.

Last edited by John Smatlak
John Smatlak posted:

Neat find- Prewar Flyer is very cool. Looking in Greenberg's guide to American Flyer Prewar O Gauge (page 62), it appears your new engine is a  1938 4615-4 / 4315-4 Type XVI locomotive with 3301 Type VI tender. Would have been easier if they just put numbers on the engines! I'm not a Prewar Flyer expert, but that appears to be it based on the photo in the book.

Thanks a bunch John!  I don’t have that guide and my online searches weren’t turning up anything helpful.

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:
SteamWolf posted:
Robert S. Butler posted:

Well, what the heck Jim and JHZ563.  Let's pour some gasoline on the toy train desire fire. 

Flyer_on_the_floor

What is that silver piece in the middle? Absolutely gorgeous! Stoke my desire-fire more! 

American Flyer Aeolus, 1935

Thanks! Will keep my eyes peeled! 

SteamWolf posted:
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:
SteamWolf posted:
Robert S. Butler posted:

Well, what the heck Jim and JHZ563.  Let's pour some gasoline on the toy train desire fire. 

Flyer_on_the_floor

What is that silver piece in the middle? Absolutely gorgeous! Stoke my desire-fire more! 

American Flyer Aeolus, 1935

Thanks! Will keep my eyes peeled! 

put this in the wrong place. one just sold on the bay for north of a grand

After a long wait, my brand new 263e, possibly the only one I’ll ever own.  This beast is gorgeous!! I finally have something that looks right with my 2816 hoppers🙂.

591315B5-912D-4ADD-A228-766BDF7B7C9D39A7F08C-7D0F-4C7B-B515-3C8705C2C7A50564D766-660B-4A4F-84D9-9B2600DFA81D

Once I enjoy this for a few months as delivered I will probably pop the top and start adding weights for better traction!

Attachments

Images (3)
  • 591315B5-912D-4ADD-A228-766BDF7B7C9D
  • 39A7F08C-7D0F-4C7B-B515-3C8705C2C7A5
  • 0564D766-660B-4A4F-84D9-9B2600DFA81D
Videos (1)
313B9DA0-B108-427D-BCA4-DFF2DA7B04AF
jhz563 posted:

After a long wait, my brand new 263e, possibly the only one I’ll ever own.  This beast is gorgeous!! I finally have something that looks right with my 2816 hoppers🙂.

Once I enjoy this for a few months as delivered I will probably pop the top and start adding weights for better traction!

Hmm, better traction? Is it slipping? My 260e can pull a boat load of cars, and it's already pretty heavy.

George

George S posted:
jhz563 posted:

After a long wait, my brand new 263e, possibly the only one I’ll ever own.  This beast is gorgeous!! I finally have something that looks right with my 2816 hoppers🙂.

Once I enjoy this for a few months as delivered I will probably pop the top and start adding weights for better traction!

Hmm, better traction? Is it slipping? My 260e can pull a boat load of cars, and it's already pretty heavy.

George

Yup, 6 hoppers and a caboose and it slips a bunch.   I might need to clean the track again soon.  I have this train running on Gargraves track.  I am wondering if tubular track would work better.

jhz563 posted:
George S posted:
jhz563 posted:

After a long wait, my brand new 263e, possibly the only one I’ll ever own.  This beast is gorgeous!! I finally have something that looks right with my 2816 hoppers🙂.

Once I enjoy this for a few months as delivered I will probably pop the top and start adding weights for better traction!

Hmm, better traction? Is it slipping? My 260e can pull a boat load of cars, and it's already pretty heavy.

George

Yup, 6 hoppers and a caboose and it slips a bunch.   I might need to clean the track again soon.  I have this train running on Gargraves track.  I am wondering if tubular track would work better.

Those drivers look different than my 260e. I thought these engines were very similar except for the 12 wheel tender. Mine has nickel covered rims. Does yours have traction tires? 

Other things to consider would be binding of the side rods or front / rear trucks. I use Fastrack. Not sure if the Gargraves profile could be causing issues. How tight are your curves?

The PS3 engine should be able to pull a lot more cars than that. Also, check that the wheels on the hoppers and caboose are all spinning freely. 

George

Joe Lyons posted:

I found this Kibri Hellgate Bridge.  Its really cool.  I can't find anything about it.  Does anyone have any info on this bridge.

 

 

Resized_20180708_162234

 

 

I do not have any info on this item, but I wonder whether it is a Kibri item. Kibri items normally have the Kibri name stamped somewhere (e.g. at the back or the bottom of an item). I have never seen a paper Kibri trademark like this; it looks like a cut-out of a box of a postwar Kibri item. At the Kibri archive (http://www.fleischmann-toys.de.../Bruecken/index.html) I do not see a bridge like this.

Regards

Fred

sncf231e posted:
Joe Lyons posted:

I found this Kibri Hellgate Bridge.  Its really cool.  I can't find anything about it.  Does anyone have any info on this bridge.

 

 

Resized_20180708_162234

 

 

I do not have any info on this item, but I wonder whether it is a Kibri item. Kibri items normally have the Kibri name stamped somewhere (e.g. at the back or the bottom of an item). I have never seen a paper Kibri trademark like this; it looks like a cut-out of a box of a postwar Kibri item. At the Kibri archive (http://www.fleischmann-toys.de.../Bruecken/index.html) I do not see a bridge like this.

Regards

Fred

It's an amazing item. Clearly not Lionel. It's handpainted for sure, which I would say would be pre-war. You may be right about the Kibri logo, but we should check the rest of the item. If it is custom, it is terrific!

George

I picked up this pile of (junk) parts recently.  Mostly 3/16ths Flyer 0 with a couple of 545 locos that have most of the parts and 4 good motor frames.  Amongst the parts were a handful of cast figures, a complete Lionel E unit, a pair of Ives loco wheels, and some Lionel switch parts. Also showing exactly how he shipped it.  I guess when its this junky it doesn't matter much but I feel I was lucky the loco shells made it safe and sound.  Oh yeah, also got a couple of boxes of unused light bulbs and two unused Lionel knuckle coupler conversion packs in the two manila envelopes.  It's a lot of great parts for someone like myself who like working on this ... junk lol

s-l1600IMG_4279IMG_4281

Attachments

Images (3)
  • s-l1600
  • IMG_4279
  • IMG_4281
Last edited by Dennis Holler
I picked up this pile of (junk) parts recently.  Mostly 3/16ths Flyer 0 with a couple of 545 locos that have most of the parts and 4 good motor frames.  Amongst the parts were a handful of cast figures, a complete Lionel E unit, a pair of Ives loco wheels, and some Lionel switch parts. Also showing exactly how he shipped it.  I guess when its this junky it doesn't matter much but I feel I was lucky the loco shells made it safe and sound.  Oh yeah, also got a couple of boxes of unused light bulbs and two unused Lionel knuckle coupler conversion packs in the two manila envelopes.  It's a lot of great parts for someone like myself who like working on this ... junk lol

Nice haul Dennis...even if it is junk (tongue in cheek)!   

Mike 

 

Brian Liesberg posted:

Picked up a Lionel 256 at the Pomona show on Saturday. Needed some work, I already re-wired it. It looks fairly decent, some issues with the paint here & there but nothing too big.

20180716_09432920180716_094341

What it really needs is some new rollers.

20180716_094402

Glad you got it. I thought it was pretty nice overall, but I already have a Repro set plus some extra cars.

Steve

The guy could have definitely done a lot better job on the restoration. The wiring was absolutely atrocious, some weren't even wires! I found what looked like safety wire with heat shrink over it that was obviously way too big and had holes worn in it so it was shorting to the frame. Lots of tabs for the windows/doors were broken off inside and the inserts very poorly superglued into place. Very worn brushes & bushings. I still think the price was worth it but am disappointed a bit in the condition of the locomotive.

As for the cars I think they look great, my only beef with them is that the plastic inserts for the windows are missing. There's no clear plastic, and the blue tinted parts have been replaced by thick beige paper. But I can't say there were any other problems with the cars, the paint job is excellent and the stamping looks professional.

It's almost as if 2 different people restored the locomotive and the cars. 

I saw that thread on the shoes & zip ties. After a bit I thought it must have too strong a shoe spring, hit the axle, or rubs the sides of center rails. The wheel flanges should keep it off the outer.

The A∃OLUS is a favorite of mine. My Marx Crusader bash would have been the  A∃OLUS if I had more mirrored stainless on hand. (It is  A∃OLUS )

Finally got around to going through this set, oiling the axles etc. The box took a couple of staples to repair some that had torn through. Everything is nicer than the EBay pictures. There is so much track I doubt it all came with it. Motor works well. Box says set #200. Everything here is duplicate for me, but my unboxed set has the black 1110.

Steve

516EAC73-4E24-4061-ADF6-1D4DA29D8C7CCD2EAB8E-5B98-4D77-B20A-EA9BB8BB2C00AB3957AF-CE81-4325-BE59-FE865C6192E99AFCE93B-AC38-4A8B-85DD-AE8202914A2C690778D7-4DA3-44ED-A334-A14C3290BC08671C5B79-446C-41BA-887C-6BDDCF4551F2

Attachments

Images (6)
  • 516EAC73-4E24-4061-ADF6-1D4DA29D8C7C
  • CD2EAB8E-5B98-4D77-B20A-EA9BB8BB2C00
  • AB3957AF-CE81-4325-BE59-FE865C6192E9
  • 9AFCE93B-AC38-4A8B-85DD-AE8202914A2C
  • 690778D7-4DA3-44ED-A334-A14C3290BC08
  • 671C5B79-446C-41BA-887C-6BDDCF4551F2
terry hudon posted:

this little buddy,i have had on layaway at pat's trains,brought it home fri,runs like a champ,lights work,i really like it,,,,when he said ,hey I have something you would like,,,i should have run,,,,,now its mine,,also picked up this af bumper,,IMGP2391IMGP2392IMGP2393IMGP2394IMGP2395IMGP2396IMGP2397IMGP2398IMGP2399

Hey, Terry

I told you it was a good looking Engine. These 0-6-0 are hard to beat.

Pat

Roi Tan cigar promo 2Several recent interesting small items have appeared on the layout:

1) 1939 Wyandotte Roi-Tan Cigars promo piece- advertising Sophie Tucker's CBS radio show.

2) Two different Flyer crossing signals. The Flyer crossing signals are "S" gauge but I must say I think they look great with O scale tinplate. Not that I don't like the "Big" Lionel crossing gates and signals, but they really are "big".

3) Also new is the brick roadway under the viaduct, found a short roll of the brick material at a recent TTOS meet; I'm wondering what others have used to create brick streets on their layouts?

4) And lastly, visible in the background is an interesting scratch-built transformer array that makes a perfect complement to the Lionel power station. It's stamped on the underside of the wooden base- it appears to say "Dube's Railroad Miniatures" in Marrietta PA. Very "old school" O gauge model railroading I thought.

Ejoy!

Flyer crossbuckFlyer crossing shack

Roi Tan cigar promo

 

Attachments

Images (4)
  • Flyer crossbuck
  • Flyer crossing shack
  • Roi Tan cigar promo
  • Roi Tan cigar promo 2
Last edited by John Smatlak
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

Many of you know my home  and travel layouts are 5 rail track. Was shocked to find a bunch of 36" straights already assembled on E-Bay. 29 pieces already assembled. Made from old KMT track, a bit of tarnish, but all are good plus some extra rails and few O ties. Price with shipping was amazing.

Steve

5 rail 2

Nice find steve!!

jhz563 posted:

Got these cool little Fleischmann tank cars in the mail today.  They look great with traditional Marx, even the a piece of wire is needed to “couple” them together.

Appearantly made on different sides of the wall!

I think that's the same side of the wall during different periods, when they were named differently. I would think "US Zone" would be very close to the end of the war, and "Western Germany" would be later. Western Germany was formed in 1949 with the unification of the US, UK and French zones.

George

George S posted:
jhz563 posted:

Got these cool little Fleischmann tank cars in the mail today.  They look great with traditional Marx, even the a piece of wire is needed to “couple” them together.

Appearantly made on different sides of the wall!

I think that's the same side of the wall during different periods, when they were named differently. I would think "US Zone" would be very close to the end of the war, and "Western Germany" would be later. Western Germany was formed in 1949 with the unification of the US, UK and French zones.

George

I guess that makes more sense, Eastern Germany would have been the other side.

jhz563 posted:
George S posted:
jhz563 posted:

Got these cool little Fleischmann tank cars in the mail today.  They look great with traditional Marx, even the a piece of wire is needed to “couple” them together.

Appearantly made on different sides of the wall!

I think that's the same side of the wall during different periods, when they were named differently. I would think "US Zone" would be very close to the end of the war, and "Western Germany" would be later. Western Germany was formed in 1949 with the unification of the US, UK and French zones.

George

I guess that makes more sense, Eastern Germany would have been the other side.

Yep, but pretty cool to have both stampings. I enjoy being able to explain the origin of these old trains when I show them.

George

Got another MTH 814 reefer to either keep as is or repaint.  $17.50 plus shipping...  I can't hardly s-l1600C7BEU9EX

believe that.  That's three MTH 814 or 2814 reefers I've been able to pickup for pretty cheap...  I've got a set of Goetz decals thanks to Stan (thanks George for setting that up!) just need to get it moved up the to do list. 

 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • s-l1600C7BEU9EX
Dennis Holler posted:

Got another MTH 814 reefer to either keep as is or repaint.  $17.50 plus shipping...  I can't hardly s-l1600C7BEU9EX

believe that.  That's three MTH 814 or 2814 reefers I've been able to pickup for pretty cheap...  I've got a set of Goetz decals thanks to Stan (thanks George for setting that up!) just need to get it moved up the to do list. 

 

That's a great deal! You are making me feel bad for how much I spent on mine. You might not even need to repaint the roof on that one and certainly not the frame!

Actually, I think I had a roof like that and just painted right over it. If it's the satin finish, it's just as good as primer. Just wash it first.

George

259E Black1685 pullman1687 observation

Great looking cars George and Love the bridge Steve.  Great stuff every where.

I have the contents of an un-cataloged prewar set with a Black 259E, 1685/1687 on there way on the Post.  I've seen the set and set box before but now can't find the reference I saw before on line   I also know there are a couple of variations of the Red cars with shade of the Reds changing over the prewar years.  I think these are the earlier version but would be happy to know for sure.

 

Attachments

Images (3)
  • 259E Black
  • 1685 pullman
  • 1687 observation

ok, you guys are going to laugh me off the forum on this one...  I won all this crap from a single auction for ONE dollar ($1).  Learn from me you don't always want to put a minimal bid on something  just to watch it! I'm going to laugh my butt off if any of those engine's/motor's run... Anybody want a gang car or a Kusan Alco?   Bout the only thing I think I want to keep is the 253 shell...  Lots of bashing opportunities! 

new junk 2new junk 3new junk1

Attachments

Images (3)
  • new junk 2
  • new junk 3
  • new junk1

"I'd buy that for a dollar" if it was "Running,..man"

...or dead

To the faster runner: Heads up Beardog, The Kusan is likely DC, if she runs.(Great Gramps was a Kusan man) I think those became RMT molds fyi.

I may want the blue flat. I'll have to look later. I like to run red, white, then blue on occasion, I think I'm short a blue car for OCD compliance. What I've been meaning to ask you about are car wheels; you always seem to have a billion on a stick for cleaning, fast angle w/axles, and old straight axle both. I can cut straight axles, wheels are what would do it. I keep robbing them from cars for my bashes.

I recently completed replacing my outer loop of standard gauge track with dual gauge track from Gargraves. The turns are all 72"radius. It runs very well and I'm so glad I did it. Bending the track that comes in 37.5 inch sections was not at all hard. We cut the radius and track width out of a 4x8 OSB board, then squeesed the track between the 2 OSB sections with clamps. Just tightening up the clamps did all the work. We learned that if we released the clamps right after bending the track wanted to spring back a little but after leaving it under pressure with the 3 clamps for a couple weeks it took a set. We stapled the ties to half inch homosote cut to the 72 inch radius after we spread glue on the homosote. a few screws between the ties hold the homosote to the train table. Here are a few pictures:train 015train 016train 017train 018

Attachments

Images (4)
  • train 015
  • train 016
  • train 017
  • train 018
BudE. posted:

I recently completed replacing my outer loop of standard gauge track with dual gauge track from Gargraves. The turns are all 72"radius. It runs very well and I'm so glad I did it. Bending the track that comes in 37.5 inch sections was not at all hard. We cut the radius and track width out of a 4x8 OSB board, then squeesed the track between the 2 OSB sections with clamps. Just tightening up the clamps did all the work. We learned that if we released the clamps right after bending the track wanted to spring back a little but after leaving it under pressure with the 3 clamps for a couple weeks it took a set. We stapled the ties to half inch homosote cut to the 72 inch radius after we spread glue on the homosote. a few screws between the ties hold the homosote to the train table. Here are a few pictures:train 015train 016train 017train 018

Very cool!  I love it!

Adriatic posted:

"I'd buy that for a dollar" if it was "Running,..man"

...or dead

To the faster runner: Heads up Beardog, The Kusan is likely DC, if she runs.(Great Gramps was a Kusan man) I think those became RMT molds fyi.

I may want the blue flat. I'll have to look later. I like to run red, white, then blue on occasion, I think I'm short a blue car for OCD compliance. What I've been meaning to ask you about are car wheels; you always seem to have a billion on a stick for cleaning, fast angle w/axles, and old straight axle both. I can cut straight axles, wheels are what would do it. I keep robbing them from cars for my bashes.

Kusan  Alco molds went to K-Line. Chassis mounts are the same. Used to have a bunch of Kushan before I banned plastic from the garage. I converted most of the Kusan Alco’s by swapping out the chassis with one from a K-Line. The only mod needed was to remove the front coupler. Screws mount in the existing 4 holes.

Steve

Last edited by Steve "Papa" Eastman

Hi Joe, Gargraves told me about 6 weeks ago that they would make dual gauge track out of any gauges and either tin or stainless. My sections were 10.70 each and were straight 37.5 inches. Very stiff. Not flex track. I specified O gauge and standard gauge but he said he could make it using S scale for a friend I have with Amer Flyer.I hope this helps but if not my email is in my profile.

 

Hello to Steve PaPa Eastman! It was your video that got me interested in dual gauge track in a more serious manner and I had everything ready to do it the way you did. Then I read another post where a member discussed the Gargraves track so I called them. The rest is history now and I  think I saved myself a lot of work that is better for me in winter. I keep about 4 acres here on the farm mowed and it just keeps raining. You know "Just add water".

BudE. posted:

Hello to Steve PaPa Eastman! It was your video that got me interested in dual gauge track in a more serious manner and I had everything ready to do it the way you did. Then I read another post where a member discussed the Gargraves track so I called them. The rest is history now and I  think I saved myself a lot of work that is better for me in winter. I keep about 4 acres here on the farm mowed and it just keeps raining. You know "Just add water".

I had the Gargraves 5 rail, but did not have the room for 72" curves which is the minimum they recommended. I just could not get smooth bends down to the 57-60" range I needed so I went with the tubular method.

Steve

 

IMG_4573Ok one pick, my huge buy included three 1666 locos, an 1130, a few other shells and motors and Beardogs Kusan Alco. The gang car might clean up too, it's just dirty. The guy put all the plastic stuff on the bottom but be bubblewrapped it so much it didn't seem to matter.  Box was 30 pounds. I almost feel guilty except I have done the same thing in the past.

 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_4573

After years of hunting I FINALLY acquired the USTTC Green Boxcab for the Stephen Girard set.

USTTC Engine

It has been a slow process to put this set together.  I first found the Coral Isle #522 observation car in an auction several years ago.  The other two cars were auctioned off separately and I only won this one.

USTTC 522 CI

In April 2016 a friend I met through this forum had a friend who had the remaining 2 cars I needed for sale and he was able to set up the deal for me to acquire the #520 Liberty Bell and #521 Stephen Girard.

USTTC 520 LB

USTTC 521 SG

The only catch in acquiring the engine was that I had to buy it as a set with the 3 cars so now I have an extra 3 car set.

And I just found out that there is a fourth car, the # 519 Dining Car.

The hunt continues!

 

Attachments

Images (4)
  • USTTC 520 LB
  • USTTC 521 SG
  • USTTC 522 CI
  • USTTC Engine
Last edited by Joe Lyons
John Smatlak posted:

Roi Tan cigar promo 2Several recent interesting small items have appeared on the layout:

1) 1939 Wyandotte Roi-Tan Cigars promo piece- advertising Sophie Tucker's CBS radio show.

2) Two different Flyer crossing signals. The Flyer crossing signals are "S" gauge but I must say I think they look great with O scale tinplate. Not that I don't like the "Big" Lionel crossing gates and signals, but they really are "big".

3) Also new is the brick roadway under the viaduct, found a short roll of the brick material at a recent TTOS meet; I'm wondering what others have used to create brick streets on their layouts?

4) And lastly, visible in the background is an interesting scratch-built transformer array that makes a perfect complement to the Lionel power station. It's stamped on the underside of the wooden base- it appears to say "Dube's Railroad Miniatures" in Marrietta PA. Very "old school" O gauge model railroading I thought.

Ejoy!

Flyer crossbuckFlyer crossing shack

Roi Tan cigar promo

 

John Could you please tell us a little about the silver streamliner train on what looks like wind up track ? As well as the over head cattery line,  Thanking you in advance  Gary NQDY

Gary- the streamliner is one of several Joustra Autorails that I have in my collection. Joustra (French) made them in both clockwork and battery versions, in several different colors and configurations. The battery version used an old type of European battery, so this one I converted to run on a trio of AA batteries (which just fit inside the original battery compartment along with their holder). Some additional photos are attached.

The overhead trolley wire and poles are a mystery- I found it several years ago on Ebay along with some flat tin track, see photos below, perhaps someone here knows?

 

Trolley track and overhead 2Trolley track and overhead 3Trolley track and overhead

 

It has no name on it. I've actually submitted photos of it to the Who Done It? column in the TCA Quarterly mag in hopes of finding an answer.

Joustra Autorail 1Joustra Autorail 2Joustra Autorail 3Joustra Autorail box

Attachments

Images (7)
  • Joustra Autorail 1
  • Joustra Autorail 2
  • Joustra Autorail 3
  • Joustra Autorail box
  • Trolley track and overhead 2
  • Trolley track and overhead 3
  • Trolley track and overhead
Dennis Holler posted:
beardog posted:

save the alco and gang car for me if you can

John

Hey John, You can send me a text or email, 76five  four uno tres- 68I9.  Got the stuff, looks pretty good actually.

did you get my text or email, I sent the email to the address you have on the forum

 

John Smatlak posted:

Gary- the streamliner is one of several Joustra Autorails that I have in my collection. Joustra (French) made them in both clockwork and battery versions, in several different colors and configurations. The battery version used an old type of European battery, so this one I converted to run on a trio of AA batteries (which just fit inside the original battery compartment along with their holder). Some additional photos are attached.

The overhead trolley wire and poles are a mystery- I found it several years ago on Ebay along with some flat tin track, see photos below, perhaps someone here knows?

 

Trolley track and overhead 2Trolley track and overhead 3Trolley track and overhead

 

It has no name on it. I've actually submitted photos of it to the Who Done It? column in the TCA Quarterly mag in hopes of finding an answer.

Joustra Autorail 1Joustra Autorail 2Joustra Autorail 3Joustra Autorail box

Very cool John

Joe Lyons posted:

After years of hunting I FINALLY acquired the USTTC Green Boxcab for the Stephen Girard set.

USTTC Engine

It has been a slow process to put this set together.  I first found the Coral Isle #522 observation car in an auction several years ago.  The other two cars were auctioned off separately and I only won this one.

USTTC 522 CI

In April 2016 a friend I met through this forum had a friend who had the remaining 2 cars I needed for sale and he was able to set up the deal for me to acquire the #520 Liberty Bell and #521 Stephen Girard.

USTTC 520 LB

USTTC 521 SG

The only catch in acquiring the engine was that I had to buy it as a set with the 3 cars so now I have an extra 3 car set.

And I just found out that there is a fourth car, the # 519 Dining Car.

The hunt continues!

 

Congrats Joe, very cool.

Thanks for asking about that streamliner again. I thought it was going to be a new build till I saw the catenary   

I found a roll of rubber brick road at a dollar tree store identical size and color to some I've had for 40+ years, except for a thin fleece backing on the new. I think it was Lifelike back then, all the other old packages from that old hobby store were Lifelike. The old is brittle and bricks chip off easy now; it was nice to get more.

What are the notable differences in the Dept 56 versions.

Recently arrived Flyer O gauge Columbia Passenger set in brown with 3020 4-4-4 boxcab electric locomotive, #3000 baggage car and a pair of #3001 Pullmans (one with rear marker lights). Ran great right out of the box! They're all in very nice condition, except for the roof on one of the Pullman cars, however they are a substantial upgrade from my previous set of brown Columbia cars (seen in the photos on the track behind the Flyer train, led by a Marklin loco), which were heavy on the "play wear".

Flyer 3020 and Columbia cars 2Flyer 3020 and Columbia cars 3Flyer 3020 and Columbia cars

Attachments

Images (3)
  • Flyer 3020 and Columbia cars 2
  • Flyer 3020 and Columbia cars 3
  • Flyer 3020 and Columbia cars
Videos (2)
Monorail IMG_6918
Flyer 3020 and Columbia Cars IMG_6917

Four lumber cars from a recent large auction lot.

IMG_2348

A very nice, complete AF 3006 car, an orange AF 3216 missing its load, a green AF 406 car with curly cue couplers, and an Ives 123 snuck into this lot. I had to buy couplers, chains and journals for the Ives car and still need to stain some of the lumber, but it's a nice find!

Lots of other cars, tankers and cranes to still unpack.

George

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_2348

Finally found a Hornby lever frame / signal cabin combo in good condition. I previously had one of the signal cabins on the layout, and now this new arrangement has taken its place. Next I'll have to add some simulated throw rods to the linkages. This would have been a neat accessory to have all hooked up to your clockwork set back in the day! Here are some photos along with a pdf found on the internet of a 1926 Hornby publication on the lever frame and the signal system (with thanks to the individual who scanned it). You'll find the pdf below the photos in the "Files" area of the post.

Hornby lever frame 2Hornby lever frameHornby signal cabin on layout 2Hornby signal cabin on layoutHornby signal cabins

Attachments

Last edited by John Smatlak
George S posted:

Four lumber cars from a recent large auction lot.

IMG_2348

A very nice, complete AF 3006 car, an orange AF 3216 missing its load, a green AF 406 car with curly cue couplers, and an Ives 123 snuck into this lot. I had to buy couplers, chains and journals for the Ives car and still need to stain some of the lumber, but it's a nice find!

Lots of other cars, tankers and cranes to still unpack.

George

Oops! Missed one.

IMG_2349

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_2349

This was described as C-2 on eBay. The post said it was missing both doors and the roof needed repainting. 

IMG_2353

I could tell one door was there. I had a replacement brake wheel from Port Lines. The roof had some paint specs that cleaned off and then I polished it. The Litho is very good and there is no rust for a 90 year old car. It is missing one door and door handles, but this is the car I was missing. Thanks to Robert for telling me to pass. With patience, I saved $300 as the price dropped over subsequent weeks of not selling!

I will add a fake litho door to the other side with a card stock photo, and I will enjoy this car in my AF large litho box car collection.

George

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_2353
George S posted:

This was described as C-2 on eBay. The post said it was missing both doors and the roof needed repainting. 

 

I could tell one door was there. I had a replacement brake wheel from Port Lines. The roof had some paint specs that cleaned off and then I polished it. The Litho is very good and there is no rust for a 90 year old car. It is missing one door and door handles, but this is the car I was missing. Thanks to Robert for telling me to pass. With patience, I saved $300 as the price dropped over subsequent weeks of not selling!

I will add a fake litho door to the other side with a card stock photo, and I will enjoy this car in my AF large litho box car collection.

George

By the way, this is my problem with TCA grading standards. C-2 is "restoration required". It's one step higher than "poor". The problem is that the standards are not MICE "mutually exclusive collectively exhaustive" and they are too subjective given the large variation in manufacturing techniques used in making toy trains. This seller was way too conservative in grading this piece. With only a little surface rust on a small part of one side and very minor scratches, this should grade much higher, but it is missing a door and a handle. Does that mean restoration is required? The roof did not need reprinting, so he was wrong there, and I have seen roofs in much worse condition. My non-expert opinion is that the grading is almost useless. Two grades would be sufficient, collector grade and not collector grade. You could add one more, mint or new. Just an observation from a not so experienced "collector"...

George

  The grading curve has dropped because the number available has dropped as well. Folks are more willing to accept a lot more wear on them.

    That one wasn't "perfect" in operation nor appearance. It was definitely in need of restoration. Tin plate collectors were always the toughest train graders imo. I wouldn't have given it a four and it needed cleaning to have a chance get to three. 

   It is also a collectors guide, not an operators. Think of shelf queens being your only goal. 

  On the other end of the spectrum you have C10, you'll likely never see any of in any make, year, model.

I see the rest as C-9 are "exceptional", C8 scuff(s), C-7 scratch, c6 2 flaws, c5 wear, c4 heavy wear, c3 significant wear/damage, c2 poor to junk(savable) c1 parts junker(non savable) 

As an operator if it rolls I'm quiet happy

Adriatic posted:

  The grading curve has dropped because the number available has dropped as well. Folks are more willing to accept a lot more wear on them.

    That one wasn't "perfect" in operation nor appearance. It was definitely in need of restoration. Tin plate collectors were always the toughest train graders imo. I wouldn't have given it a four and it needed cleaning to have a chance get to three. 

   It is also a collectors guide, not an operators. Think of shelf queens being your only goal. 

  On the other end of the spectrum you have C10, you'll likely never see any of in any make, year, model.

I see the rest as C-9 are "exceptional", C8 scuff(s), C-7 scratch, c6 2 flaws, c5 wear, c4 heavy wear, c3 significant wear/damage, c2 poor to junk(savable) c1 parts junker(non savable) 

As an operator if it rolls I'm quiet happy

I guess I didn't quite finish my point. The grading was supposed to guide price and valuation. However, this C-2 is worth more to me and many others than a C-3 or C-4 that needs painting, has a lot of rust or has litho beyond repair. It just needed a door and brake wheel. Sometimes a piece of junk is worth more than something C-4 because it has one perfect condition part and some other hard to find parts...

You bring up a good point that this issue is much more of a prewar tinplate issue due to rarity. Maybe the grades and pricing work better in postwar and modern eras...

George

Honestly, its the main reason let my membership lapse years ago. I honestly felt it was insane to argue over perception of grading and witnessed such discussions many times. They get very heated on occasion, just crazyness to me I guess. If a guy is that into defining his definition of condition, that’s great.  Me, I’m going to run some trains. I pay what I feel comfy with based on similar recent sales. I like what George has done and frankly I think its the same approach I use. Works for me. That said I will and do watch from afar to learn and document details etc. I may not want to argue with the condition guys, but they offer a lot of valuable insight and information that is useful in my decision making.  It all works out in the end.

Of coarse personal worth trumps any guide.

Parts value is a separate issue, but obviously should be a consideration in price value of an item. The speed of markets today can easily leave you wondering what to believe a value to be. E.g. on auction sites it isnt hard to need 3 or 4 parts but find a whole example cheaper than than a few parts. Marx motors w/plastic shells are an example of how strange it gets. You can often find them cheaper with shell intact and running than bare and needing attention. 

I have always found that if the TCA guy is trying to sell it to you its c7, if he is trying to 

buy it from you its c2. Got real tired of hearing "I'm TCA" like that was something special.

Some one else made a good point on parts. I recently  needed a lead truck and one marker

light for my 1668. About $20 plus shipping. I ended up buying a 1688 for $29 plus

shipping. Took the parts I needed and sold the rest of the 1688 for $40. 

 

beardog posted:

I have always found that if the TCA guy is trying to sell it to you its c7, if he is trying to 

buy it from you its c2. Got real tired of hearing "I'm TCA" like that was something special.

Some one else made a good point on parts. I recently  needed a lead truck and one marker

light for my 1668. About $20 plus shipping. I ended up buying a 1688 for $29 plus

shipping. Took the parts I needed and sold the rest of the 1688 for $40. 

 

That is exactly my experience!

George S posted:

This was described as C-2 on eBay. The post said it was missing both doors and the roof needed repainting. 

IMG_2353

I could tell one door was there. I had a replacement brake wheel from Port Lines. The roof had some paint specs that cleaned off and then I polished it. The Litho is very good and there is no rust for a 90 year old car. It is missing one door and door handles, but this is the car I was missing. 

I will add a fake litho door to the other side with a card stock photo, and I will enjoy this car in my AF large litho box car collection.

George

I spent some time today making a door for the other side of my AF 3008 GN car.

I cut a piece of tin the size of the door and bent the bottom edge to fit in the door glide. I then printed a digital photo of the door on HP photo paper and sealed it with Krylon Digital Preserve-It.

IMG_2375IMG_2376

I then used super glue to glue the photo to the front of the door.

IMG_2377

I used a magic marker to make the back of the door black to match the other side.

IMG_2378

Here is the new door installed.

IMG_2379

Here it is with the roof.

IMG_2380

I'm pretty happy how this car cleaned up.

George

Attachments

Images (6)
  • IMG_2375
  • IMG_2376
  • IMG_2377
  • IMG_2378
  • IMG_2379
  • IMG_2380

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×