Buy/Make Anything Cool Lately (Tinplate Version)

The "spur" link provided with the bakelight loco photo leads to a 404 net error page, the server here can't find it.

Adriatic posted:

The "spur" link provided with the bakelight loco photo leads to a 404 net error page, the server here can't find it.

I see that, not sure why, let's try it again: http://www.spur-null.de/triebfahrzeuge/z_fd50_2c.html

Terrific thread on building a European-style castle for the layout:

European-style castle

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

George S posted:

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

George S posted:

What did I buy here?  I really have no idea. I thought it would look cool on my next layout.

George

****, came in second again.

Steve

Sorry Steve. I wasn't sure I would see one again. 

Now I know it is a building based on Bilt-E-Z sets from 1924 by Chicago Scott Mfg Co. There are a few original sets on the Bay. Not sure how many you would need to buy to build this.

George

Modern Marx sold some small sets with identical parts. I have a couple of them. No originals though.

Steve

What did Marx call them and when did they make them?

Thanks!

 

Guitarmike posted:

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

George S posted:

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

George S posted:

What did I buy here?  I really have no idea. I thought it would look cool on my next layout.

George

****, came in second again.

Steve

Sorry Steve. I wasn't sure I would see one again. 

Now I know it is a building based on Bilt-E-Z sets from 1924 by Chicago Scott Mfg Co. There are a few original sets on the Bay. Not sure how many you would need to buy to build this.

George

Modern Marx sold some small sets with identical parts. I have a couple of them. No originals though.

Steve

What did Marx call them and when did they make them?

Thanks!

 

The set was called Tin Town High Rise

Steve

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

Guitarmike posted:

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

George S posted:

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

George S posted:

What did I buy here?  I really have no idea. I thought it would look cool on my next layout.

George

****, came in second again.

Steve

Sorry Steve. I wasn't sure I would see one again. 

Now I know it is a building based on Bilt-E-Z sets from 1924 by Chicago Scott Mfg Co. There are a few original sets on the Bay. Not sure how many you would need to buy to build this.

George

Modern Marx sold some small sets with identical parts. I have a couple of them. No originals though.

Steve

What did Marx call them and when did they make them?

Thanks!

 

The set was called Tin Town High Rise

Steve

Thank you Steve!

The hunt begins.......

JohnnieWalker posted:

i Picked up a few items at a small show in Philadelphia PA last Sunday. Here are two of the items , An Ives single arm street light ( needs to be striped and repainted,  $20.00,   It does work and it now has become Another Standard gauge Project, LOL ) plus I picked up the taxi and a few lead figures .

I like your taxi. Mine didn't look anywhere near that good when I got it but it came out pretty good. The flash washed out the color, it's actually a very bright yellow.

Few nice pick ups today: Pair of Flyer(originally unknown) prewar litho bridge approaches for $5 so I jumped at that. Also picked up the shell of a red 629 Pullman which is going to serve as a dinner on my layout.

As I said- didn't know who made the approaches at first- I've seen them around often but neer in a baby blue color. Luckily, the track was quite dirty so I put a bit a bit more alcohol than usual on a scotch bright pad after other methods failed(I never do this with tinplate for fear of ruining the paint). The alcohol dripped onto the approach and down the sides to reveal brown bricks! So then I found that the approaches are AF 112s. Finished product below(already had the US steel bridge and it fit):

This week I made one transition car(Lionel Lines 1679 Baby Ruth) to work to connect Ives automatic couplers, Flyer tab/slot couplers, or really any tab slot coupler with a Lionel latch coupler. Further, showing a picture of a train I used to play with all the time as a kid- Shell 2654. Always had a box coupler and auto knuckle but I had to replace the auto knuckle due to constant uncoupling.

Also did some digging around in the basement and storage, came across these:

The orange loco and blue tender are diecast and made by Hubley. My Pop bought the reproduction tin wind-up toy for me about 15 years ago, it's a repro but I still love it.

Finally, with the talk I saw about Metal Masters( Steve "Papa" Eastman) this week, I caught car fever a bit so I thought I'd post them a very small sample of those toy like cars that I switch on and off my layout. First is an assortment by different manufacturers. Starting in the front, left to right: "It's a Beaut" police car, tootsie green convertible, red midget toys futuristic car?. In the back: Lupor friction FBI car, Goodee Van, Wyandotte Cement Truck(missing top half)

Finally, always thought these were cool. More awesome things my grandfather had in his attic. Ulrich "extra freight" trucks on HO scale. I love that it shows the RR name/logo and slogan. I believe these were sold as "kits" with limited assembly required. I keep the Illinois California eXpress & Seaboard on the more toy like part of my layout. The Green truck in the back just says "Short Valley Lines". :

 

Steve

Forgot this one! Bought this prewar 021 manual switch with bulb and casing.

Thought that it would allow my prewar electrics to go over it without hopping or derailing. The partially restored Lionel 254e wasn’t liking it. Ives 3250(no restoration) went over it and USUALLY didn’t hop without  like it and other prewars locos or engines do on postwar switches. However, there was too much sparking for my liking unless I’d really slow it down and when I ran it at higher speeds it would “hop”, also had a tough time if the switch was set to turn. Any suggestions on a fix? I’ve scoured the internet and saw something about a bit of foam or bulsa wood being placed in the gap but i didn’t really understand it. Would like to put this on my main layout to replace a 042 but don’t trust it even with postwar or modern trains. Any advice is appreciated! 

 

Steve

It seems to me it would go into the V between the short red or rusty stationary extesion portion of the the point rails and the drop off bend of the turnout entrance's center rail. That gap looks big and deep enough for some rollers to drop into, where contact shoes would cantelever and straddle the gap smoothly across the top and not drop in.

StevefromPA posted:

Forgot this one! Bought this prewar 021 manual switch with bulb and casing.

Thought that it would allow my prewar electrics to go over it without hopping or derailing. The partially restored Lionel 254e wasn’t liking it. Ives 3250(no restoration) went over it and USUALLY didn’t hop without  like it and other prewars locos or engines do on postwar switches. However, there was too much sparking for my liking unless I’d really slow it down and when I ran it at higher speeds it would “hop”, also had a tough time if the switch was set to turn. Any suggestions on a fix? I’ve scoured the internet and saw something about a bit of foam or bulsa wood being placed in the gap but i didn’t really understand it. Would like to put this on my main layout to replace a 042 but don’t trust it even with postwar or modern trains. Any advice is appreciated! 

 

Steve

I replaced all the switches that will run tinplate with Merkur 900mm switches. They’re basically O72. Even my Marx and Flyer engines run through them. I do need to lock the Flyer 3300 in forward, or it will reverse or stall on the switch. I still have one Ross #4 switch on a modern loop. I haven’t decided whether it’s staying or going on the new layout yet.

George

pd posted:

Terrific thread on building a European-style castle for the layout:

European-style castle

I checked it out. It was made of cardboard and paper mache. Nice talent. I’m not sure I have the patience for it anymore.

George

Tinplate related.

The photography is stunning! Well worth the price. The prelude is in English but the photo annotations each have English, French and German.

I bought it because I am planning to win the lottery and then pay crazy, obscene prices for pristine pieces at auction.

George

George S posted:

I bought it because I am planning to win the lottery and then pay crazy, obscene prices for pristine pieces at auction.

George

You and me both Brother ....

Picked up this Fandor bumper today. Been wanting to get it since before New Year’s but my head injury prevented that. Luckily was still there!

Guy also had a cheaply priced tunnel that looked “different”, and they were about to close so I didn’t ask and just brushed it off. Then later when looking online I saw it matches a Marklin prewar- doh. Still happy with what I finally got 2 1/2 months later!

Picked up a couple bits of tinplate last night and thought I might throw the pics out to the community to help me identify as US stuff is not my forte ... these were picked up from the UK as I get heaps better shipping from there as opposed to USA international rates which often make very little sense... but cost heaps!

First up

Then what I think is an early American Flyer tanker , but havent found similar pics anywhere yet ( and yep I tried )

and a cheap n cheerful Wrecker

 Thoughts, comments, identifications , Random pointing of fingers at the dumb Aussie buying things with his guts rather than knowledge? LOL

the wrecker is Marx

the second is definitely a  American Flyer tank car....maybe a custom?

first one I haven't a clue

The Flyer tanker is definitely custom. The trucks are painted the same as the frame. Not sure where the decals came from. White decals are harder to produce. The red tank color is custom too. It’s attractive though, and I wouldn’t mind having one.

The gasoline tank car looks original and European. It’s an early version with the hook couplers instead of link. Could it be Paya?

George

The Gasoline Tanker is Mizuno from Japan.

Usually found in their battery East West freight set.

I recently acquired this Issmayer crossing shed complete with ringing bell, crossing gate, and semaphore/signal. 

 

WOW, it works. # 401 Dorfan. The only fatigue cracks are on inside at the light sockets.

Steve

who made that Steve?

Steamer posted:

who made that Steve?

Dorfan #401

Thank you @Jim O'C  & @Steamer

I had the Wrecker pegged as Marx in my mind but great to have confirmation.

Jim... You went above and beyond identifying the gasoline wagon , who woulda guessed that !

Thank you both ... I tend to grab what I like rather than base things monetarily and every now and then things surprise me ... I need to trust my gut ( its big enuff! )

 

I know this has appeared on the thread before, however I finally got one to put on my layout.  I have always like the way it looked on the layouts of others.  I was surprised at how large it is.  One finally came up on ebay at what I considered to be a reasonable price.

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

very nice Greg

This showed up in the mail today. It is an American Flyer 4637 'Shasta' engine. It runs and has a ringing bell, which works.

 

Lionel2056 posted:

This showed up in the mail today. It is an American Flyer 4637 'Shasta' engine. It runs and has a ringing bell, which works.

 

Now for the matching cars. I love that set.

Greg J. Turinetti posted:

I know this has appeared on the thread before, however I finally got one to put on my layout.  I have always like the way it looked on the layouts of others.  I was surprised at how large it is.  One finally came up on ebay at what I considered to be a reasonable price.

 

 

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

I have one on my layout and one with my show layout tub. The small footprint make them useable in tight spaces.

Steve

A couple of recent purchases.

A boxed O gauge clockwork Hornby no.1 G set. I love the embossed box lid and the standard parts description inside. The engine and cars are assembled using bolts and square nuts rather than tabs. The set was sold assembled and repair was really intended to be by Hornby. They phased the bolt and nut assembly out and reverted to tabs shortly after this set was produced. This set dates to early 1924, is in much better condition than the pictures reflect and runs very nicely.

The next set pictured is an electric powered Bing HO/OO gauge set as produced for the British market. This is a welcome addition to my growing Bing tabletop railway collection. Strangely, although of British configuration, this has an operating headlight. I don't know the exact year of production: 1924-1931? My good friend Steve Clarke was able to rebuild the the blown commutator on both this example and the one I have for the American market.

Eric

TCA, LCCA, Ives Train Society

I showed this house I picked up already. Nice home made piece but the base was a letdown. Luckily it fits nicely in a Repro plot.

Steve

Steve fyi, you added a shot from your more personal stuff too.

Greg J. Turinetti posted:

I know this has appeared on the thread before, however I finally got one to put on my layout.  I have always like the way it looked on the layouts of others.  I was surprised at how large it is.  One finally came up on ebay at what I considered to be a reasonable price.

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Well done on acquiring one Greg.  I managed to buy one the same way late last year.  I too was surprised at how large it was once I'd plugged all the separate parts together.

One thing has me puzzled.  The photos of yours appear to show this item in different colors to mine ... or is it a trick of the light?  The body of mine is definitely a cool silver color.

Adriatic posted:

Steve fyi, you added a shot from your more personal stuff too.

Thanks for the heads up. That was my dad and a step mom. Picture is deleted.

O Gauge Guy posted:

Greg J. Turinetti posted:

I know this has appeared on the thread before, however I finally got one to put on my layout.  I have always like the way it looked on the layouts of others.  I was surprised at how large it is.  One finally came up on ebay at what I considered to be a reasonable price.

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Well done on acquiring one Greg.  I managed to buy one the same way late last year.  I too was surprised at how large it was once I'd plugged all the separate parts together.

One thing has me puzzled.  The photos of yours appear to show this item in different colors to mine ... or is it a trick of the light?  The body of mine is definitely a cool silver color.

Mine looks more like Greg’s, but the top is a green blue. I’ve never seen the silver color.

George

O Gauge Guy posted:

Greg J. Turinetti posted:

I know this has appeared on the thread before, however I finally got one to put on my layout.  I have always like the way it looked on the layouts of others.  I was surprised at how large it is.  One finally came up on ebay at what I considered to be a reasonable price.

 

 

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Well done on acquiring one Greg.  I managed to buy one the same way late last year.  I too was surprised at how large it was once I'd plugged all the separate parts together.

One thing has me puzzled.  The photos of yours appear to show this item in different colors to mine ... or is it a trick of the light?  The body of mine is definitely a cool silver color.

I’ve had about six pass through my hands. Never seen the silver. 

Steve

George S posted:

O Gauge Guy posted:

Greg J. Turinetti posted:

I know this has appeared on the thread before, however I finally got one to put on my layout.  I have always like the way it looked on the layouts of others.  I was surprised at how large it is.  One finally came up on ebay at what I considered to be a reasonable price.

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Well done on acquiring one Greg.  I managed to buy one the same way late last year.  I too was surprised at how large it was once I'd plugged all the separate parts together.

One thing has me puzzled.  The photos of yours appear to show this item in different colors to mine ... or is it a trick of the light?  The body of mine is definitely a cool silver color.

Mine looks more like Greg’s, but the top is a green blue. I’ve never seen the silver color.

George

Okay guys, does this piece have a name or description you used to find it?  I’d like to keep an eye out for one myself! “Tinplate clock” didn’t help me find one.

Walkers Chocolates Big Ben

  Didn't they make the tower during different years, with a gap between?  I just assumed that was it; Ive seen one or two "blues" in photos.

  I had to look to at both your and his photos a few times before I even figured that possibility out.    It was cool,  I enjoyed it . Relevant to every post you've made...but You deserved a heads up regardless.

Greg, this link is of no great use because there is no stock available.  However it might help you to see what you are looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/Walkers...keywords=walkers+tin

 

There is one on eBay in Australia.

Steve

Mine has a "Best Before" date of Sept 2015.

However I think I've been misleading everyone.  Apologies for that.  I had another look at mine and there seems to be different colors on different sides.  So perhaps it's just a case of fading on the sides facing the sun or light.

 

Yup, looks like too much light

Funny, I wanted to say I liked the sandstone color better, but didn't want to offend. 

It could look better on some layouts than tan with the pastel shade it has too.

Adriatic posted:

Funny, I wanted to say I liked the sandstone color better, but didn't want to offend. 

It could look better on some layouts than tan with the pastel shade it has too.

I agree with you that the warm sandstone color is better ... and also more correct.

Shows you how damaging the Sun can be to litho. 

George

well under the make....this 807 was in the bunch of four wheel cars someone tried to make into two truck cars buy mangeling the frames. The body looks ok in the pics, but like some of the others had a heavy handed brush repaint. 

paint strip and new paint, and set on a spare 620 frame and trucks.

And let there be light!

Just getting back to this thread.

Thanks folks for all of the postings on "Big Ben" and for the sleuthing.  Mine is all tan and has a "Best if used by" date of 9/30/2014.

This is another piece that I spent some time looking for on ebay because I saw it in someone's photos of their layout.  I have had it for several years now.

And a size comparison with Big Ben

The next layout will have a Wide Gauge portion (maybe 5 rail track) and I have been considering having a World's Fair theme park on it.  Perfect place for these pieces, and I also have a reproduction Hellgate Bridge  that I could use.  Does anyone have a "tinplate" model of any other iconic buildings?  Hmmmm  wonder if I could find a cookie tin of St Basil's in Moscow.

Thanks again for your posts.

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

 

I just remembered that I also have the Statue of Liberty by K-Line (?)

While she may not be tin, I think she could work in with the World's Fair Park theme.

Maybe I can find one of those pot metal versions of Lady Liberty with a clock on ebay.  

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Greg J. Turinetti posted:

I just remembered that I also have the Statue of Liberty by K-Line (?)

While she may not be tin, I think she could work in with the World's Fair Park theme.

Maybe I can find one of those pot metal versions of Lady Liberty with a clock on ebay.  

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Or you can build a Vegas strip with these in the middle of the layout

 

 

New age cast bronzeplate?

This is my planned centerpiece for a micro tinplate layout when I'm ready. It was going to go into my TV, but I couldn't see the top well enough. I need a larger TV.  

The little Kong billboard magnet was not a part of it.  The roof comes off the main structure at the edge of the verticle lens to access the bulb. Top windows are vents.  It could use a smoke unit there imo

These  lamps were not cheap and were hard to aquire even from the maker (NY,NY)  Ever see one grab it. You likely won't see another for many many years.

($400ish wholesale in the 90s)  15" to peak; 19" to the ball on top. 

Greg J. Turinetti posted:

I just remembered that I also have the Statue of Liberty by K-Line (?)

While she may not be tin, I think she could work in with the World's Fair Park theme.

 

Maybe I can find one of those pot metal versions of Lady Liberty with a clock on ebay.  

Northwoods Flyer

Greg

Lady Liberty is in my travel show tub. She is always front and center.

Steve

A recent find of two German signals, the AF lamppost is just to give an idea of the size. They all are in need of some restoration, the center one is a Marklin from the 1900's years but I do not know who have made the platform clock model. It is intended for the french market, funny to notice that there is a severe misspelling on the right, in french, trains is the same than in English not "Traines".  It must also have been lighted, the clock is on a cellulose base. Maybe it is DOLL but I am not sure at all, any idea welcome....

Daniel

Hello Daniel,

the clock was made by Karl Bub, here a picture from catalog 1936.

 

Arne

Arne posted:

Hello Daniel,

the clock was made by Karl Bub, here a picture from catalog 1936.

 

Arne

Hello Arne,

Many thanks for your answer, I will make a lighting unit to complete it.

All my best wishes, Daniel

Hello,
I had found two Bub Pullman coaches, both in bad condition, one discolored, the other burned, except the couplings defective. However, the cars have nearly the same suspension as the Bub Adler coaches.

A paper case was first printed to try out.

Looks already good, so the two coaches were used.

The couplings were repaired and reinforced with wire.

Frames and roofs got new color.

Due to the slightly different character of the chassis, it was difficult to paint the yellow lines properly. Was painted with a 1 mm paint marker.

The first sheet was, as so often, scrap metal, the image was shifted from the middle.

So the drawing was reworked a bit and reprinted. But there was an unexpected difficulty, I noticed that both sides of the car are printed differently.

The whole was then laminated to the sheet using transfer paper. Then it was painted with clear lacquer.

And finish.

Greetings
Arne

How do you get your nice roll and corners at the bottom Arne? Any pattern shots of the area?

Adriatic posted:

How do you get your nice roll and corners at the bottom Arne? Any pattern shots of the area?

This is easy. Here a few pictures with a scrap part.

The sheet has to be a bit longer so you can bend. First bend to top.

Now a wire on the front and bend down by hand and a block.

Next bend down, easy by hand.

After them, cut the sheet.

For the corners, you need a few blocks and bend down by hand.

Finish.

 

Arne

Very nice tutorial!  Thanks Arne. I certainly like to see everything you post here.

This weekends tinplate pick-ups:

 

MARX Pedestrian bridge, sporting Pennsy herald, crossing over 2 Lines  of track.

 

Not sure if you’d count this as tinplate? Maybe I’m asking that just because it’s my first American Model Toy’s train. Not Lionel or Flyer but not Marx or Unique Arts. I love them. Cleaned off the on combine car and it ran beautifully. 

What to do with a shattered Marx 1666 side smoker and a 666 with a dead motor.

Steve

Probably a bit yawn inducing to most members here, but kind of exciting to me as I dont get to collect much USA stuff due to exchange rates and postage combining to scare the heck out of the moths in my wallet .

But this week I did get a few from the UK of all places where I am lucky in that I have a guy there who will box up multiple things and post on cheaply to me

Some trackside accoutrements ( I have been watching too many lifestyle TV programs obviously ... accoutrements ?  ... errr stuff! )

Couple of American Flyer

And a bit of Bing ( Bing is always good !)

And a double bogey Mettoy

 

Like I said probably very boring to most , but your trash is my treasure down here  lol !

I like junk...I'm the guy at the train shows on the floor going thru the junk boxes.

After checking out the table tops then I go under to "dumpster dive". Steamer is usually there, my be he lives there??

Great stuff Fatman! Been known to root through under the table too but getting back up is becoming a problem! 

Fatman, that Bing tender must have been used as a transition piece. It has a Chad Valley T&S coupler attached to the end we can see with a cotter pin?

It doesn't always work out! 

Like many others I bought one of the tinplate buildings from Michael's craft store last Christmas season.

I thought this would be a nice simple repaint project, so I decided on Blue and White, largely because I had those color rattle cans in the garage. This one screamed "General Store" to me so that what I wanted to make it.

 

Fortunately the front and back separate easily with a couple screws.  It turns out the bulk of the front facade is actually wood!

The metal front is an embossed sheet piece

I taped everything up and prepared to make it look beautiful, one coat at time over several nights in the garage.

Unfortunately, even with a coat a primer, whatever the base coat was, it didn't like getting repainted!

 

Looks like this project will be a do over.  I am going to try to sneak this into the sandblast cabinet at work, and then hit it with primer again.  Since the base materiel appears to be galvanized, I am open to suggestions on painting/prep if anyone has some experience to share.

Use a primer for galvanized tin and test it first. Your garage paint might not work.

jhz563 posted:

It doesn't always work out! 

Like many others I bought one of the tinplate buildings from Michael's craft store last Christmas season.

I thought this would be a nice simple repaint project, so I decided on Blue and White, largely because I had those color rattle cans in the garage. This one screamed "General Store" to me so that what I wanted to make it.

 

Fortunately the front and back separate easily with a couple screws.  It turns out the bulk of the front facade is actually wood!

The metal front is an embossed sheet piece

I taped everything up and prepared to make it look beautiful, one coat at time over several nights in the garage.

Unfortunately, even with a coat a primer, whatever the base coat was, it didn't like getting repainted!

 

Looks like this project will be a do over.  I am going to try to sneak this into the sandblast cabinet at work, and then hit it with primer again.  Since the base materiel appears to be galvanized, I am open to suggestions on painting/prep if anyone has some experience to share.

I've only primed mine so far but I used Train Enamel. Also I scuffed up the paint with scotchbrite and ran a tack cloth over it before laying down the primer. What kind of primer did you use?

samdjr74 posted:

jhz563 posted:

It doesn't always work out! 

Like many others I bought one of the tinplate buildings from Michael's craft store last Christmas season.

I thought this would be a nice simple repaint project, so I decided on Blue and White, largely because I had those color rattle cans in the garage. This one screamed "General Store" to me so that what I wanted to make it.

 Fortunately the front and back separate easily with a couple screws.  It turns out the bulk of the front facade is actually wood!

The metal front is an embossed sheet piece

I taped everything up and prepared to make it look beautiful, one coat at time over several nights in the garage.

Unfortunately, even with a coat a primer, whatever the base coat was, it didn't like getting repainted!

 

 

 

Looks like this project will be a do over.  I am going to try to sneak this into the sandblast cabinet at work, and then hit it with primer again.  Since the base materiel appears to be galvanized, I am open to suggestions on painting/prep if anyone has some experience to share.

I've only primed mine so far but I used Train Enamel. Also I scuffed up the paint with scotchbrite and ran a tack cloth over it before laying down the primer. What kind of primer did you use?

I did a couple of tin houses and still working on them. I to use the red scotch bright and wipe it down with lacquer thinner. Some folks have problems with the paint chipping off but if you prep the surfaces it helps. 
Just have fun and take your time.
To me this project will learn teach the art of masking.
I use the thin model masking tape for covering/edging in the detailed areas then the blue masking tape for the large fill in areas.
Still have to put clear plastic sheet in for the windows and add curtains and shades and signage.
This will be my "Standard Ville Dance Hall"

Mine will go on a detailed wooden base that is landscaped with fences, bushes, trees and a walkway.

samdjr74 posted:

jhz563 posted:

It doesn't always work out! 

Like many others I bought one of the tinplate buildings from Michael's craft store last Christmas season.

I thought this would be a nice simple repaint project, so I decided on Blue and White, largely because I had those color rattle cans in the garage. This one screamed "General Store" to me so that what I wanted to make it.

 

Fortunately the front and back separate easily with a couple screws.  It turns out the bulk of the front facade is actually wood!

The metal front is an embossed sheet piece

I taped everything up and prepared to make it look beautiful, one coat at time over several nights in the garage.

Unfortunately, even with a coat a primer, whatever the base coat was, it didn't like getting repainted!

 

Looks like this project will be a do over.  I am going to try to sneak this into the sandblast cabinet at work, and then hit it with primer again.  Since the base materiel appears to be galvanized, I am open to suggestions on painting/prep if anyone has some experience to share.

I've only primed mine so far but I used Train Enamel. Also I scuffed up the paint with scotchbrite and ran a tack cloth over it before laying down the primer. What kind of primer did you use?

I just wiped it off, didn't scotchbrite it or anything, just assumed it was a basic silver paint.  Since posting I have also read that wiping it down with vinegar before painting may help with the adhesion.  Anyway since I now need to get the paint off I think this will have an interesting look when done.  I should go get some pinstriping tape. Cutting the tape with a razor blade is tedious.  

I used a rustoleum white primer.  Indeed just one of many rattle cans in the garage, but decent quality.  I will keeps folks posted as to how this turns out.

John Z.

jim pastorius posted:

After checking out the table tops then I go under to "dumpster dive". Steamer is usually there, my be he lives there??

I usually start down there.....

 

 

John H. Shetler posted:

Great stuff Fatman! Been known to root through under the table too but getting back up is becoming a problem! 

I've been aware of that myself......

JHZ, You want "etching primer" for the galvanized (automotive supply or painter's supply house), cost is higher; but great stuff. (kinda hard, so hard to sand too. Go light and easy; no runs, etc.) Everything else will eventually chip or peel. Etching primer chemically treats and binds to the zinc (or other hard to paint metal too like brass, copper, etc.) You either didn't clean with a solvent, didn't allow full cure, or didn't use compatible paints. (unusual for a topcoat to react to a primer... is that the case?... If so, brands type& color please....so we don't repeat it )

Adriatic posted:

JHZ, You want "etching primer" for the galvanized (automotive supply or painter's supply house), cost is higher; but great stuff. (kinda hard, so hard to sand too. Go light and easy; no runs, etc.) Everything else will eventually chip or peel. Etching primer chemically treats and binds to the zinc (or other hard to paint metal too like brass, copper, etc.) You either didn't clean with a solvent, didn't allow full cure, or didn't use compatible paints. (unusual for a topcoat to react to a primer... is that the case?... If so, brands type& color please....so we don't repeat it )

I use the Rustoleum etching primer and I usually prep the surface on all my tin (after stripping if necessary) wit scotch brite and lacquer thinner. Make sure you test your top coat on a separate piece with the final color paint to make sure there is no reaction to the two paints

Adriatic posted:

JHZ, You want "etching primer" for the galvanized (automotive supply or painter's supply house), cost is higher; but great stuff. (kinda hard, so hard to sand too. Go light and easy; no runs, etc.) Everything else will eventually chip or peel. Etching primer chemically treats and binds to the zinc (or other hard to paint metal too like brass, copper, etc.) You either didn't clean with a solvent, didn't allow full cure, or didn't use compatible paints. (unusual for a topcoat to react to a primer... is that the case?... If so, brands type& color please....so we don't repeat it )

Thanks for the info.  

I think there must have been a small spot on the primer that didn't take, about the size of a dime.  After that the paint job was already ruined so I had nothing to lose.  I wiped the area with a paper towel and hit it with the top coat again.  It just got exponentially worse after that.  

Fatman posted:

And a double bogey Mettoy

 

Like I said probably very boring to most , but your trash is my treasure down here  lol !

This is not Mettoy. It´s Model 802 LNER goods van made by Brimtoy. Building time 1932-45 and 1951.

 

Arne

Arne posted:

This is not Mettoy. It´s Model 802 LNER goods van made by Brimtoy. Building time 1932-45 and 1951.

 

Arne

Thank you yet again Arne ... I really need to spend some cash on the Michael D Foster books lol !

Went antiquing in Carlisle, Pa. today and bought some older reading material plus a Lionel O gauge 152 loco tht runs nice. Saw some other items but don't need them.

I haven't had an etching primer fail to take another paint. A couple of "regular" primers have gator skinned though. I avoid "Rusty" spray products in general; "shop paint" o.k., but nothing I'll care about...lots of reasons.

Well I haven’t gotten around to getting the Micheal’s building re-stripped yet.

In the meantime, a pleasant surprise arrived in the mail yesterday.  A new to me USTTC box car.  The brake wheel handle is missing but I don’t really care.  The paint is sharp and my wife and I love the Dr Pepper color on the roof.

I am becoming quite a fan of the usttc cars.

There is some grime on the decals, does anyone have any experience cleaning these decals without damaging them?

I think I was watching that one too, nice catch for sure.

Dennis Holler posted:

I think I was watching that one too, nice catch for sure.

Thanks for letting it go!  It was a pretty nice deal 

Just now purchased American Flyer 1115 Auto Box car and 1116 Gondola.

Went back to the store where I bought my paratrooper jacket and bought original jump pants that went with it. Cost $16 !!  Now if I still had my Thompson I woud be set.  Have bought two Lionel O gauge engines too. fun !!

Dennis Holler posted:

I think I was watching that one too, nice catch for sure.

"I THINK I was watchit that one"?? Dennis I'd love a look at your watch page if you're not even sure what's on it..... 

Dave, you know me to well, been trying to take it easy on the purchases lately though 👍

where ya been keeping yourself stranger?

I posted this in another thread, Another Standard gauge project,  but it sure does fit in this one as well.  My home made telltale . Because I cannot afford the real ones and mostly because I like building my own stuff. Next up is to prime it and then finish coat it.  The base is an old Lionel lamp post base and the brass tubing is from my local hardware store .  I had the chain and clasps in a junk/parts box .

JohnnieWalker posted:

I posted this in another thread, Another Standard gauge project,  but it sure does fit in this one as well.  My home made telltale . Because I cannot afford the real ones and mostly because I like building my own stuff. Next up is to prime it and then finish coat it.  The base is an old Lionel lamp post base and the brass tubing is from my local hardware store .  I had the chain and clasps in a junk/parts box .

Great idea, those Broken lamp post that one can pick up at Trains shows for a buck or two have a lot of uses. I have one that I m collecting parts to make a flag pole. I like the brass finial and ball you use on the top. 

A nice "neck, cap, or cup", etc (lamp hardware) could work very nicely as a pole base too. The ornate detail variety is endless... 

The similarities of real lamp base hardware to real lamp base hardware is astounding 😲

😂

Steamer posted:

where ya been keeping yourself stranger?

Work, kids and stuff....  you know family lol I seem to go in cycles, and I think I'm in a soft not do a lot of trains cycle.  It'll shift  before to long I'm sure.

not sure what that first thing is you mentioned......

JohnnieWalker posted:

I posted this in another thread, Another Standard gauge project,  but it sure does fit in this one as well.  My home made telltale . Because I cannot afford the real ones and mostly because I like building my own stuff. Next up is to prime it and then finish coat it.  The base is an old Lionel lamp post base and the brass tubing is from my local hardware store .  I had the chain and clasps in a junk/parts box .

This inspired me an d since I had a broken light post that I bought at a train show for $1.00 I had nothing to lose but a little time. 

Found the first half of my unicorn this last week, the add on car to the mth red 710 set. Now if I could only find that elusive red 713....

went to a train show today with my Dad (Youngstown Model Railroad Club). Got to see Ed Boyle, but didn't get to talk, he was busy whenever I was closeby. Picked up some project parts. Saw a lot of good deals, but couldn't justify getting them (already had), or one was a tinplate observation and I was looking for Pullmans. Great time with Dad and looking forward to their fall show.

A nifty item from the York meet- a custom built Lionel standard gauge interurban by Karl Rammling. Karl added new ends to a 418 Parlor car of 1923, as well as a bell and trolley pole. An old-school chain drive provides power from a Lionel motor, using two-axle trucks. An E-unit was added for reverse. Some photos on my layout. plus a video pulling a similar obs car from my collection for a two-car train. Runs great- needs to have the ends painted to match, but otherwise I really like the patina.

Pretty neat, I have been wanting o do something similar. I have a car or two. Thanks for posting.

Sneak peek of my Pop's attic(about .5% of his collection)- heading back later today to grab some more:

Below is what I took home last night, I wanted to spend time with my Grammy so getting to go up a grab stuff from the attic was a bonus.

Tin Litho Friction ice cream truck(Maker Unknown). Plastic Esso fuel truck(Can't recall maker). Tin Litho Friction 70s El Camino?(made in Japan). Man Mopping made of plastic- maker unknown but fits in with O-Scale Figures). The vehicles also actually fit in well with my other vehicles on the layout. I try to stick to a 1:43 to 1:50 Scale

Lemax figures- Checker scene, seamen figures with boat. Maker of house unknown but it could look pretty good with some modifications. The Pillsbury Dough Boy Pencil Sharpener is going on top of my Plasticville Manufacturing Plant. My Pop worked for Pillsbury and General Mills for 20+ years after he got laid off from the cement company.

Blue Metal Masters Bus- @Steve"Papa" Eastman. And a closer shot of the Ice-cream truck. The metal master's bus is the one I took because the paint job was better, didn't realize the window struts were knocked out on the other side so when I go back tonight I'm going to grab the other one.

Also finally picked this up from the attic. Marx red tin litho clicker rifle. Forgot to take a picture, amazingly found a pic online for once on ebay. My Pop's has a strap with it though.

More to come later today!

 

Pete in Kansas posted:

JohnnieWalker posted:

I posted this in another thread, Another Standard gauge project,  but it sure does fit in this one as well.  My home made telltale . Because I cannot afford the real ones and mostly because I like building my own stuff. Next up is to prime it and then finish coat it.  The base is an old Lionel lamp post base and the brass tubing is from my local hardware store .  I had the chain and clasps in a junk/parts box .

This inspired me an d since I had a broken light post that I bought at a train show for $1.00 I had nothing to lose but a little time. 

It looks great ! You are way ahead of me now, I still haven't painted mine yet . 

John Smatlak posted:

A nifty item from the York meet- a custom built Lionel standard gauge interurban by Karl Rammling. Karl added new ends to a 418 Parlor car of 1923, as well as a bell and trolley pole. An old-school chain drive provides power from a Lionel motor, using two-axle trucks. An E-unit was added for reverse. Some photos on my layout. plus a video pulling a similar obs car from my collection for a two-car train. Runs great- needs to have the ends painted to match, but otherwise I really like the patina.

That's a great find for sure !  Good chance I would have bought it if I saw it first.  I have a similar version started in my project box and I'm   trying to find a power truck for it  now.  That seems to be the hardest part to find. 

Starting tear down and assessment and restoration of D291

Follow on a thread just for this display I started

John Smatlak posted:

Jagrick posted:

Jagrick posted:

This is a paper clip tray Lionel put out/had made in the 1930's. They also made a paper weight depicting a 402 for the 25th anniversary (I have one of those as well). I have reproduced the Lionel streamliner as above from pewter and now will do the same with the airplane.

you can see how the 2 cast pegs on the airplane fit in the holes on the 752

Very cool! Had not seen this one before.

I was pleasantly surprised to find one of these paperweights / executive desk trays on a seller's table at York. No airplane on mine, but still very cool. Sitting behind it is my Wells "Golden Streak" floor toy streamliner. Has anyone got a picture of the version of the desk tray that has the 402?

Today, I am mostly making early Bing O gauge couplings. The photos show some of the stages in the process, firstly the parts as they come from water jet cutting, Then deburred and shaped, next assembled and finally blackend by heating in a gas torch flame and dropping in oil. Got a few bits of stock that need these, so making use of the second extra day off work this weekend.

Big  Mark, I suspect a few of us might be interested in buying some of those!, they look great

 

Dennis Holler posted:

Big  Mark, I suspect a few of us might be interested in buying some of those!, they look great

 

That's exceedingly kind of you to say so Dennis. I'm afraid none available for sale though, I used to produce a small range of Bing, Carette and Märklin couplings for O and 1, but I can't get the bits cut out anymore. If that should change at sometime in the future, I'll let everyone know.

Cheers, Mark

 

John Smatlak posted:

John Smatlak posted:

Jagrick posted:

Jagrick posted:

This is a paper clip tray Lionel put out/had made in the 1930's. They also made a paper weight depicting a 402 for the 25th anniversary (I have one of those as well). I have reproduced the Lionel streamliner as above from pewter and now will do the same with the airplane.

you can see how the 2 cast pegs on the airplane fit in the holes on the 752

Very cool! Had not seen this one before.

I was pleasantly surprised to find one of these paperweights / executive desk trays on a seller's table at York. No airplane on mine, but still very cool. Sitting behind it is my Wells "Golden Streak" floor toy streamliner. Has anyone got a picture of the version of the desk tray that has the 402?

 I will send you a picture of mine. U have toyed with the idea of reproducing in pewter but not enough interest in these to warrant anymore seems like

bigmark75f posted:

Dennis Holler posted:

Big  Mark, I suspect a few of us might be interested in buying some of those!, they look great

 

That's exceedingly kind of you to say so Dennis. I'm afraid none available for sale though, I used to produce a small range of Bing, Carette and Märklin couplings for O and 1, but I can't get the bits cut out anymore. If that should change at sometime in the future, I'll let everyone know.

Cheers, Mark

 

Maybe a template file for the cuts?

Adriatic posted:

bigmark75f posted:

Dennis Holler posted:

Big  Mark, I suspect a few of us might be interested in buying some of those!, they look great

 

That's exceedingly kind of you to say so Dennis. I'm afraid none available for sale though, I used to produce a small range of Bing, Carette and Märklin couplings for O and 1, but I can't get the bits cut out anymore. If that should change at sometime in the future, I'll let everyone know.

Cheers, Mark

 

Maybe a template file for the cuts?

I couldn't make them that way Adriatic, my brain would go numb with the boredom! I only started making these many years back because the guy who used to make and sell them made them by hand as you suggest, and they cost a fortune to buy from him, £10 each, and I'm talking 20 years ago. So I spoke with a friend whos business is water jet cutting, and away I went.

Cheers, Mark

 

Two Tone Blue 381e with Proto 3

 

I meant the layout file used by the water jet so one of us might take a shot at it locally since you didn't seem interested in pursuing it personally. I thought you might have done the sheet layout yourself. That kind of tooling is almost common around here, though cnc plasma is even more common. I think a plasma cutter would work too, though edge cleanup would be more intensive. Still worth a try imo and I'm sure sooner or later someone may put it to use again.

Plasma would work until you needed a critical dimension such as laying out a motor side plate and ensuring the gears all meshes correctly. With each of those there is a tolerance and you have to chooose to center on the profile or stay to one side. I’m trying to get a response from a local firm to see what they would charge for a std sized sheet of parts. I do know over in the UK there is a bit of cortage industry at leadt one guy will laser cut live steamer frames and other parts if you provide the file etc. I got laser cut frames for an LBSC Bat which were very nice but of course shipping would be tough for a few parts.

Craignor posted:

Two Tone Blue 381e with Proto 3

That is one, beautiful set! 

George

Technically this is not a train accessory, but it is tinplate, and I think people will appreciate it. It certainly goes well with the trains; it's a Metalcraft Zeppelin and a mooring mast that I'm not sure who made. At the moment it's been attached to the top of our Lionel station. The Detroit Leland Monorail can be seen circling below.

Thats Awesome @John Smatlak  I am very much a zeppelin man !

( at one stage I used to own and operate a 16 foot radio controlled airship )

I picked up a Mark Clockwork version from I think the 1930's for very much the same task of circling the skies !

A bit over 10" long

 

 

The zeppelin is very cool !!   Yesterday I went with the tried & true and bought a very nice Lionel 2065 that runs nice. My 5th one, I think.  Sure didn't need it but the price was right.

What can I build out of this MTH NYC 999 Empire State Express chassis?  

That's all I got, but it is the high 86" driver version  Would have to make a maybe a tin boiler and cab and tender??  That or wait for an MTH boiler to be listed. Although I am a deep rooted PRR fan, this is one NYC engine that I love, Huge drivered 4-4-0's and this one has just the perfect stance for my tastes...

let your fingers tip toe thru that closet of yours and you may be amazed what you find....

you could start with a piece of PVC pipe for a boiler....

Dennis, I would try to rebuilt the body with brass, or maybe finding a similar model in old style casting. It's a great looking model. 

Daniel

Dennis Holler posted:

What can I build out of this MTH NYC 999 Empire State Express chassis?  

That's all I got, but it is the high 86" driver version  Would have to make a maybe a tin boiler and cab and tender??  That or wait for an MTH boiler to be listed. Although I am a deep rooted PRR fan, this is one NYC engine that I love, Huge drivered 4-4-0's and this one has just the perfect stance for my tastes...

Thomas Branch Line or a Shawnee?

Dennis Holler posted:

What can I build out of this MTH NYC 999 Empire State Express chassis?  

That's all I got, but it is the high 86" driver version  Would have to make a maybe a tin boiler and cab and tender??  That or wait for an MTH boiler to be listed. Although I am a deep rooted PRR fan, this is one NYC engine that I love, Huge drivered 4-4-0's and this one has just the perfect stance for my tastes...

Would it fit into an AHM Casey Jones kit body? Maybe that would defeat the "tinplate-ness" of it?

Make a "track inspection" car out of it. Some had like a passenger car body over it. A lot easier to scratch build than a loco body. Thee are pictures of them in books.

Dennis Holler posted:

What can I build out of this MTH NYC 999 Empire State Express chassis?  

That's all I got, but it is the high 86" driver version  Would have to make a maybe a tin boiler and cab and tender??  That or wait for an MTH boiler to be listed. Although I am a deep rooted PRR fan, this is one NYC engine that I love, Huge drivered 4-4-0's and this one has just the perfect stance for my tastes...

Dennis, I have a well busted Marx Wm Crooks shell I’d be happy to send you. The domes and stacks are still good.

Steve

Thanks for the offer Steve, I'm gonna try and make a tinplate boiler/cab for it.

 

Alright, I've missed so many of these cars over the last year or so but now I finally managed to win one!  The MTH Altoona Lager Beer car in tinplate!!  Several times I was on one but either forgot to bid or the bidding got to high.  Maybe I got lucky this time. 

 

That’s Ann awesome beer car @Denis Holler. Nice pick up. That is actually cool enough to make me consider MTH tinplates, seriously. Don’t have anything against them but they just never seemed to fit with my engine and rolling stock- that one could!

Got a few things over the last ten days, haven’t had a chance to get to post much. I will limit descriptions to the metals but you’ll see some larger shots too.

First up: picked up these diecast figures and sign at Henning’s yesterday. Station figure and boy with a camera? They fit well and look  somewhat decent with my O scale figures. The sign says “please do not scorch. Police Station one Mile”. In the background is a repainted 657 caboose I got last Thursday. At first I didn’t know it was repainted(was rushed for time) which got me kinda ticked off. Then when I realized that was a color that was never even originally made- even more mad. Calmed down though, However, and it’s actually pretty nice. Since it was  $8 I figure if I can’t find a  place for it I can at least harvest the couplers.

Next, focusing on the green car on the single tubular track. Ives 551 Chair Car from eBay, description said it was Pretty beat up and it is but not as bad as described. Nice addition to my Ives/Bing American Market consist led by an Ives 3250 or Lionel 254e. I have a latch and slot coupler on the 254e and the long coupler on the chair car fits in their snug and securely. 

Never thought I’d write a paragraph being so stoked about couplers ha. In the front in the bag in the pic above: 2 reproduction early Ives Tab/slot couplers I got at Henning’s. One has that “T” shape to fit through the base, has a more narrow slot but longer tab- this one is now on the other end of the Chair Car is the hook/link/auto coupler could go back to its original car. The other I bought has the circular part that you twist and has a shorter tab but bigger slot.

Above: Got this postwar #35 lamp pole in a junk bin in a bag with another, much larger pole. Anyway, still works, hoping to find a top for it, preferably the crowned one it should have. For now it has the red light bulb because it’s a warning light at a small military outpost.

 

below- repainted caboose up close. 

 

below: Sunoco 1680 tank car. Was missing one truck and was already fitted with the knuckle. Fine with that though becuse now I can add to my major Gas and Oil company consist with a different SUnoco car.

 

More to come once I get home

Look what the postman brought this week (via international air freight).  A No. 813 Cattle Car in orange and pea green with copper journals (Type II) from 1931-34 and a No. 816 Coal Car Hopper in red with copper journals (Type III) from 1931-34.

These might be relatively easy to buy in the US, but they're impossible to get here in Australia.  So sorry to my US friends to have depleted the total pool of available supply by two cars!

I’m very happy with the cattle car which is in great condition for its age.  The paint is amazing.  I was hoping the hopper car would be the lighter red color but it’s not and looks to have been repainted.  That's what can happen when you rely on a seller's low quality photos.  Oh well, it's still a nice addition to the pre-war collection.

StevefromPA posted:

Got a few things over the last ten days, haven’t had a chance to get to post much. I will limit descriptions to the metals but you’ll see some larger shots too.

 In the background is a repainted 657 caboose I got last Thursday. At first I didn’t know it was repainted(was rushed for time) which got me kinda ticked off.

 

 

 

 

 

I haven't put the TCA "restored" stickers on my tinplate yet. I guess I need to get around to that. It might be easier to put stickers on the ones that are original though! 

George

George S posted:

StevefromPA posted:

Got a few things over the last ten days, haven’t had a chance to get to post much. I will limit descriptions to the metals but you’ll see some larger shots too.

 In the background is a repainted 657 caboose I got last Thursday. At first I didn’t know it was repainted(was rushed for time) which got me kinda ticked off.

 

 

 

 

 

I haven't put the TCA "restored" stickers on my tinplate yet. I guess I need to get around to that. It might be easier to put stickers on the ones that are original though! 

George

Haha. Please don’t do that, George. The reason i was just minorly ticked off was because the tag didn’t indicate it was repainted in a non-original color, i.e. that caboose was never offered in brown in the prewar era.

 

Also, where do you live in Australia? i lived in Brisbane & studied at University of Queensland for 5 months back in 2012. Made my way up to Cairns and down to Sidney, Frasier Island, the Whitsundays, flew out to Fiji Love Aussie, should I ever gain the ability to move there I will. But now that you mention the train deficit I’m getting second thoughts lol. But seriously.

That said, those are 2 very nice pre war freight cars, I really like the stock car especially. And I have no clue why but those prewar hopper cars are really hard for me to find in my area of the states, I’ve never looked but anywhere I go that has prewar items I check out the pieces. Between shows, flea markets, antique markets or shops, hobby shops, shows, etc... I just never have come across one.

Again, nice gets and enjoy life down under!

Picked the first two up on Friday. The destination sign if by Bing, I believe(possibly Märklin). The roof, sides, signs are original. Unfortunately the base appear to have been replaced. Still, I was happy to find this guy

Thr 2nd item is a Bing crossing sign with bell. Unfortunately no lettering on the sign and lacks the pole mechanism. But again, like this piece. The reason I was upset the Coty Destination sign lacked the original base was because I love the original based by Bing, Märklin, Issmayer, Carretes, etc... just something about the colors and texture. 

question on this one as well- how does one attach it to the tracks? Lol

below: 2 Metal Masters buses(can you spot the difference. And a Hubly Kiddie Toy with the paper insert that shows the cars underbody stil intact.

@StevefromPA  I think the crossing bell's two outer mounts slip under a rail and the wheel flanges strike and push down on center contact arm, repeatedly tolling the bell as the the train rolls past. 

Adriatic posted:

@StevefromPA  I think the crossing bell's two outer mounts slip under a rail and the wheel flanges strike and push down on center contact arm, repeatedly tolling the bell as the the train rolls past. 

Thanks @Adriatic ! Just need to find a pole to put on the back to make the bell ring.

And here is an original BING model, the same than yours, maybe it could be helpful for a restoration,

Daniel

StevefromPA posted:

Picked the first two up on Friday. The destination sign if by Bing, I believe(possibly Märklin). The roof, sides, signs are original. Unfortunately the base appear to have been replaced. Still, I was happy to find this guy

This is model 678/0 from Karl Bub, made 1924-1934.

 

Greetings

Arne

@Arne Thank you! I was looking to verify another item I just purchased(surprise for later in the week) and then was looking for the destination sign on this website:

https://www.historytoy.com/toy...-all-article-numbers

Couldn't find it under Bing. Karl Bub was my next go to manufacturer. The help is much appreciated. Any thoughts on the shield with the bell I purchased? The base is marked with the Bing logo and the base style is also consistent with other prewar, European makers 

Gotthis guy in the mail today. Body is in excellent condition. Wheels and couplers are new but I love the  lower profile:

Was able to add it to my prewar consist(Ives 3250, Flyer 1123, Ives Chair Car 551, 2 ives gravel cars #63, Bing NYC 253, Bing PRR Obs. #529):

FRENCHTRAINS posted:

And here is an original BING model, the same than yours, maybe it could be helpful for a restoration,

Daniel

@FRENCHTRAINS I’m sorry I didn’t see your post above Arne’s. That is EXTREMELY helpful- thank you for posting that! Very much appreciated!

 

-Steve

StevefromPA posted:

Picked the first two up on Friday. The destination sign if by Bing, I believe(possibly Märklin). The roof, sides, signs are original. Unfortunately the base appear to have been replaced. Still, I was happy to find this guy

Thr 2nd item is a Bing crossing sign with bell. Unfortunately no lettering on the sign and lacks the pole mechanism. But again, like this piece. The reason I was upset the Coty Destination sign lacked the original base was because I love the original based by Bing, Märklin, Issmayer, Carretes, etc... just something about the colors and texture. 

question on this one as well- how does one attach it to the tracks? Lol

below: 2 Metal Masters buses(can you spot the difference. And a Hubly Kiddie Toy with the paper insert that shows the cars underbody stil intact.

Pictures a bit dark, but it looks like two different front wheel openings.

Steve