cast drivers

This looks to me like a brand new topic, yours is the first post!

Web site looks up to date

Contact info:

Phone:
    (+44) (0)1629 734053

Fax:
    (+44) (0)1629 732235

Email:
   slaters@slatersplastikard.com

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

This looks to me like a brand new topic, yours is the first post!

Yes, there was an old thread 'O scale drivers' that would not allow any more replies.  I've never seen that before.

@mwb posted:

Web site looks up to date

Yeah, I've been there and used that email address, that's why I'm asking.

I did get a reply from Stevenson, but he has not responded to a follow up question.  I will try calling him.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Right now, best bet is to keep one eye on eBay, unless you are an accomplished machinist with at least a 9" lathe.  If Slaters is that outfit in the UK, you get nice drivers for British prototypes, but they do not have the massive look of US steamers.

@Tom Stoltz posted:

Yes, there was an old thread 'O scale drivers' that would not allow any more replies.  I've never seen that before.

Yeah, they do that here - very helpful...

Yeah, I've been there and used that email address, that's why I'm asking.

Call them - just remember the time offset.

the threads lock after so long of no replies. You can ask the moderators to unlock them.

0 scale drivers | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)

O scale drivers!!!!! | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)

Scale Drivers | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)

If nobody is responding, what good does it do to lock them, awaiting a request to unlock so somebody can post?

@bob2 posted:

If nobody is responding, what good does it do to lock them, awaiting a request to unlock so somebody can post?

Well, I tried to and people are responding.  I would ask, why lock them in the first place?  Does it service a purpose?

I did call Bob Stevenson today.  He was a lot of fun to talk with and I might, very helpful.  Why I'm interested in 0 scale drivers, is I plan on using them for a S scale engine up grade.  I've been looking for an 80" S scale driver -- with 17 spokes -- did some math and learned a 60" 0 scale driver is the correct diameter for an 80".  However, it's not that simple, other things to consider is tire width and hub diameter.  It's not a perfect one to one, but I have a candidate from Bob.  There even a 19mm back to back narrow gauge axle in 0 scale that would be just about right for S, available from Slater's which is where Bob gets his axles in he first place.

So far so good,

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Proto 48 drivers/wheels/tires, etc. are great for S Scale.  Not Flyer/tinplate or P:64, just regular S Scale.  Same with turnout parts such as frogs, guard rails, and points.  I didn't realize it until I looked at the NMRA specs.

Jay

@Jay C posted:

Proto 48 drivers/wheels/tires, etc. are great for S Scale.  Not Flyer/tinplate or P:64, just regular S Scale.  Same with turnout parts such as frogs, guard rails, and points.  I didn't realize it until I looked at the NMRA specs.

Jay

I’ve only looked at the online catalogs so far and have only found a few that I thought would be likely candidates.  Mostly it’s the size of the hub – probably too fussy on my part.  Have you done much with them in S scale?  Someone also warned me about the spoke size, too.

Bob Stevenson will machine, drill crank holes, and insulate them for a very reasonable charge.  I finally heard from Slater’s.  Their centers are nylon and don’t need to be insulated.

In the pix I'v attached, 0 scale on the left S scale on the right.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Too fussy huh?  Good to know.  Yeah, I'd probably not be able to meet your standards.  I'll let you and Bob work it out.

Jay

Let me try this again. The threads lock automatically after a period of time.

you then see this

"No new replies are permitted."

@Engineer-Joe posted:

Let me try this again. The threads lock automatically after a period of time.

you then see this

"No new replies are permitted."

Do you know why?  Ii didn't know that and was afraid the censors might have stepped in for whatever reason.

@Jay C posted:

Too fussy huh?  Good to know.  Yeah, I'd probably not be able to meet your standards.  I'll let you and Bob work it out.

Jay

I'm not that fussy.  I do hi-rail,, somewhere in between hard core scale and tinplate.  Because I can count, I don't do rivets...  However, I do like to be close if possible.  In this project, I'll probably leave the original Flyer wheels on the pilot.  And who knows about the tender?

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

I thought the threads lock automatically after a while to prevent really ancient threads (which might contain very out-of-date info such as disconnected e-mail addresses) from being dragged out by someone posting on it, not realising that the thread is stale.  I've seen a good example where a person has posted thinking they were joining in on a current conversation, only to have their parade rained on when someone else points out, "Uh, check the dates; that thread is three years old."

Paul

NYCSHS #7172

@Woodsworks posted:

I thought the threads lock automatically after a while to prevent really ancient threads (which might contain very out-of-date info such as disconnected e-mail addresses) from being dragged out by someone posting on it, not realising that the thread is stale.  I've seen a good example where a person has posted thinking they were joining in on a current conversation, only to have their parade rained on when someone else points out, "Uh, check the dates; that thread is three years old."

Paul

NYCSHS #7172

Understood, but some groups are very inactive… for example: Railfane.net’s Reading Railroad sub-group.  Yesterday I responded to a thread from 2007.  Reading Modeler is not much better, however there is movement.  The Cast Drivers is another, old but the info is still relevant.

I’m not saying the policy should change, I mean, how hard was it for me to start another similar thread?  BOTOH, the thread lost some of the people with the knowledge I seek.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

I guess it has to be each thread on its own merits.  There will always be situations where it's worth reactivating an old thread....more photos come to light for a prototype thread on a freight car, for example - makes far more sense to keep it all together.

Regarding Slaters driving wheels, I want to make a general comment that they have such a wide variety of wheels available that it is usually possible to find something quite close to what is needed for 1:48-scale US-prototype locos, and I am surprised that they are not used more in this market.  The current project on my workbench is installing a drive in an AHM/Riv IHB 0-8-0.  There are numerous reasons for ditching the chunky wheels that it came with, and I found Slaters' #7851K wheels are a reasonable match; overall diameter is only slightly under-size, it has the correct number of spokes, and the piston stroke is okay, 28.7" as compared to 32" for the prototype, but the screw-together, self-quartering assembly more than makes up for any discrepancies....so easy to use!  I have successfully machined brass wheel castings in the past, made my own split axles an'all, and now that I have given Slaters wheels a proper look, I swear they will always be my first choice.

@Woodsworks posted:

I guess it has to be each thread on its own merits.  There will always be situations where it's worth reactivating an old thread....more photos come to light for a prototype thread on a freight car, for example - makes far more sense to keep it all together.

Regarding Slaters driving wheels, I want to make a general comment that they have such a wide variety of wheels available that it is usually possible to find something quite close to what is needed for 1:48-scale US-prototype locos, and I am surprised that they are not used more in this market.  The current project on my workbench is installing a drive in an AHM/Riv IHB 0-8-0.  There are numerous reasons for ditching the chunky wheels that it came with, and I found Slaters' #7851K wheels are a reasonable match; overall diameter is only slightly under-size, it has the correct number of spokes, and the piston stroke is okay, 28.7" as compared to 32" for the prototype, but the screw-together, self-quartering assembly more than makes up for any discrepancies....so easy to use!  I have successfully machined brass wheel castings in the past, made my own split axles an'all, and now that I have given Slaters wheels a proper look, I swear they will always be my first choice.

I agree about Slater's.  Self quartering and nylon centers make them a must explore caster.  For me using their 7mm for S scale makes it a bit more difficult.  The hubs are really large, the wheel I was looking at, 7861, looks great however the hub would be over 2 scale ft for me.  More than twice what it should be.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

@Tom Stoltz posted:

I agree about Slater's.  Self quartering and nylon centers make them a must explore caster.  For me using their 7mm for S scale makes it a bit more difficult.  The hubs are really large, the wheel I was looking at, 7861, looks great however the hub would be over 2 scale ft for me.  More than twice what it should be.

Tom Stoltz

in Maine

Tom, it has only just dawned on me that I should mention 3D-printed wheel centres.  I have been experimenting with them for myself for quite a while,

I have been pleasantly surprised by how accurate these turned out, printed with crankpin hole an'all.  The tyres must be secured with locktite or similar because any tighter fit distorts the centre.  They are accurate, the price is right, they are already insulated, they don't need painting and the slightly rough surface texture is quite like the somewhat rough finish on the real thing - sorry about the photo, it is really sharp on Flickr but something seems to have got lost in translation!

x

That's more like it....I had forgotten which method to use to include photos, used the wrong one.  I upload to Shapeways as a set of eight centres sprued together, costs me US$24.33 for the centres, freight and tyres extra.