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I have a turnout on a siding that I don't often use.  I noticed that a locomotive lost power as it was entering the main line from the siding.  After measuring the voltage on the three sides of the turnout, I found that there was power on the center rail of the straight track entering the turnout, but there was no power on the straight and curved track exiting the turnout.  Also, there's a section of the turnout center rail that provides power to both the straight and curved turnout exit, but it also doesn't have power.

I applied power to the curved exit center rail using a jumper, and power was then available to both the curved and straight tracks exiting the turnout, but not on the dual center rail near the entrance to the straight and curved tracks that exit the turnout.

I've attached an image to illustrate the issue.   Perhaps there's a wire at the bottom of the turnout that has separated.   I would appreciate any suggestions on how to fix this issue, especially a simple solution that does not require removal of track that has been ballasted in a hard to reach location. 

Atlas-O_Turnout_Issue

Thanks,

Tom Jasper

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Last edited by Tom Jasper
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If you remove the turnout (or have and extra) and turn it over you will see a series of jumper wires that connect A to D to B and C.  What you describe implies that the jumpers between A and D and between D and B have burned out.  The solution is to solder a heavier jumper wire between rails.  This is a know problem of the 1st generation of Atlas turnouts.  This has been fixed in second and later generations (you;ll see "UV-resistant" molded inside the underside if one of the ties.

Jan

I got lucky.  I was able to remove the turnout without disturbing the ballast thanks to Ross roadbed.  Upon examining the jumper wires, they all seemed to be fine ... no fried wires.  I tightened the small screws that secure the jumper wires to the rails, tested the resistance, then reinstalled the turnout.  Works great now. 

Tom

Last edited by Tom Jasper

I've found that those tiny screws that secure the jumpers to the bottom side of the rails and the cast center rail wye are usually the problem. Before I put any Atlas switch equipped with these screws down on the layout, I make sure the screws are tight, check the continuity with an ohm meter and then place a dab of epoxy on the screw head and adjacent tie to keep the screw from backing out. After the glue dries I check the continuity again then the switch is OK to install.

Ken

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