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I took 4 paper clips and made two tools to change traction tires. They work great together and I can put on a new tire in a matter of seconds. CTT just showed the tools in their January issue and I'm including some additional pictures here for clarity. I want to share this information as I know traction tires have been a big pain for everyone. I hope you find these tools as beneficial as I do. I no longer have to dread changing these tires. If you make these tools, be sure to solder them all the way to the point where the tire fits between the two ears. Otherwise the tire will try to work its way up between the two clips. Enjoy!IMG_5923IMG_5924IMG_5925IMG_5926

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Last edited by GHD
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Thanks Marty,

And here is a video that I hope shows the basic procedure. At least you can get the idea from this. This was new and not easy for me to video. The installation also goes better on the usual work bench. A special set up with the engine, working around the tripod and using a borrowed camera for the first time. Enough with the excuses! I hope this helps everyone with the tire mounting thing and people keep on using them on their engines. They will pull a lot better with the traction tires installed!  Good luck!

OOPS!  The video is too big. I'll have to try to shorten it to post it, I guess.

 

John, this was a temporary set up on top of boxes, etc. for the camera. Even with the pressure of the camera and the set up, the whole event took 40 seconds. I changed a second tire on this engine back on my work bench and it went much better. Having the engine on something solid is a plus. It goes the best when you can basically apply equal pressure to both tools and they move equally. I'll be interested to see some feedback from people that try this.

GHD posted:

Thanks John, but I'm not up to the You Tube thing. However, I did shorten the video to where I think it will work. Let's see.

Hello GHD.........

My goodness !!!!, why are you doing this the HARD way ?  It is easy to do that when taking out 2 screws on inside the truck sideframes  (the 2 screws are easy to see between the wheels) take them out and the sideframes come out and it be so much easier to change the tires and then put sideframes back on.  My railking NW-2 is like that as I can change all 4 tires in 5 mins. This is the reason those screws are there in first place

"We know that in everything God works for the good of those who love him" Romans 8:28 ERV (easy to read version)

Tiffany

On some older MTH engines I have, they are not so easy to take the side frames off.  What I used is a tweezers, the back end of it.  The one I have is almost 1/8" think and is rounded, about the size my fingernail on my pinky finger.  I get the traction tire started and in the grove, then holding it in the grove with one finger, I use the tweezers back end to push it down and onto the wheel, slightly move toward the front then back of the wheel.  Most slide right on.

I think you just picked a bad sample to video since it would obviously be easier to remove the sideframes.  However, there are plenty of locomotives that have the screws on top, those require you to remove the shell and then drop the trucks.  For some Lionel truck designs, that is quite a PITA, the trucks self-destruct into a pile of axles and gears by the time you get them off the frame!

John, I was so focused on trying to figure out how to do a video, I just grabbed the first engine I found needing a tire without ever thinking about the side frame feature. If you are trying these tools, I should point out that the 6 wheel trucks are the easiest to do as there is more room on each side of the center wheels. The 4 wheel truck I used has tight clearance on the one side. I'm looking forward to hearing about your experience. Be nice!!!!! That was my first time making a video like that.

Looking over the MTH CabForward tire changing challenge it still appears the only way to get at them is to basically disassemble the locomotive.  Has anyone changed tires on this locomotive and have a simple way to do it?  That would be GREATLY appreciated as the take apart/put back together correctly appears to be a real challenge on this one.

Laidoffsick posted:
aghrhowie posted:

How about steam engines?  Also what is a good solvent to clean drivers of excess oil that caused rubber tires to swell?

Acetone, laquer thinner, denatured alcohol, paint thinner. I have used them all. What ever I have handy at the time.

Sorry to hear of your condition.  But I would like to thank you for the answer to my question about a safe oil and grease remover that will not damage the paint.  I come from the school, that where a little lube is good, more is better.  The lube I put on the drive rod screws spun down the drivers to the rails and got on the tires, causing the rubber tires to expand.  

Again thank all of you. 

aghrhowie posted:
Laidoffsick posted:
aghrhowie posted:

How about steam engines?  Also what is a good solvent to clean drivers of excess oil that caused rubber tires to swell?

Acetone, laquer thinner, denatured alcohol, paint thinner. I have used them all. What ever I have handy at the time.

Sorry to hear of your condition.  But I would like to thank you for the answer to my question about a safe oil and grease remover that will not damage the paint.  I come from the school, that where a little lube is good, more is better.  The lube I put on the drive rod screws spun down the drivers to the rails and got on the tires, causing the rubber tires to expand.  

Again thank all of you. 

Thanks for the concern Howie but I am not sick, nor am I laid off. It's just railroad terminology for calling in sick ;-) Matt Jackson can tell you. I do have a sickness and it's train related, but it does not prevent me from working.

Kerrigan posted:

Looking over the MTH CabForward tire changing challenge it still appears the only way to get at them is to basically disassemble the locomotive.  Has anyone changed tires on this locomotive and have a simple way to do it?  That would be GREATLY appreciated as the take apart/put back together correctly appears to be a real challenge on this one.

I took the drive rod off and pulled it out from the cross head guide. That allowed the drive wheel to be rotated so that the main rod screw was centered in the cross head guide opening, created by the removal of the cross head. That allowed me to remove the main rod screw and slip the tire past the end of the rod.

Royboy, here are a couple more pictures that I hope help. Make the paper clips straight and then bend the ends so they protrude an eighth of an inch and then solder them together. Make sure the solder closes the gap at the ends so that the tire doesn't get wedged in between them. Go easy with the solder thickness as you'll want them thin for clearance reasons. You'll also note that one tool is curved more than the other. This is a result of my generally starting on one side of the tire and then using the second tool to push the other side down and around the wheel. I hope this helps.IMG_5966IMG_5968

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