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I have 3 variations on these RS-1 switchers from Atlas, all in Santa Fe zebra stripe paint scheme. One has full sound and DCC installed from the factory (5876-3 from 2010); one has 2-rail TMCC installed (5876-2 from sometime in the early 2000s); and one (7876-1 from 2002) is just straight DC. This is the straight DC version that I am upgrading.

Even though this version is straight DC, it did come with directional lights and smoke and speaker (because it was billed as "DCC ready"), and I wanted to keep it all. Was just a matter of tearing out the DC board and connecting everything (plus a couple resistors) to the ESU LokSound.

Here is where the headlights connect to the board.

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Here is track power coming into the board and motor control leaving the board.


Got some basic connections soldered to the LokSound board (track power in, motor control out, common and headlight control). Excuse my horrible soldering, still a work in progress!


Removed speakers to solder connections. (yes that is Atlas switch wiring that I am using!)


More awesome soldering.


Hard to see, but I got the smoke unit connected to common and AUX3.


Tidied things up a bit with a small piece of foam board and a couple miniature zip ties.


Put everything back together and we are in business!

Thanks for watching.


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I had a pair of Atlas electro-couplers that I was going to install, but the larger coupler boxes don't fit in the chasis. I got out the TMCC version of this switcher, which comes with the electro-couplers, to compare.

First, notice the space around the coupler box on the DC version is just black, but painted zebra stripe on the TMCC version.



I also noticed there is an extra piece to the DC assembly.


I'm guessing these two different arrangements are to ensure that there is enough space for the electro-coupler on the TMCC version, but also to ensure that each coupler rides at the correct height.

Anyways, I decided to leave this model with just KaDee couplers. Next upgrade is to change the TMCC version to DCC, so there I will have a chance to wire the couplers to the LokSound board.


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