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Magic land,

I checked all my photos, the only thing that would look silver were the stainless steel wrapped around the retractable side window, on each side. Everything else is tangerine, including the vertical post supporting the triangular vent (butterfly) window and the window gutters. Front windshields just have black rubber grommets, no stainless inserts.

Hope this helps.

@Trainmstr posted:

Magic land,

I checked all my photos, the only thing that would look silver were the stainless steel wrapped around the retractable side window, on each side. Everything else is tangerine, including the vertical post supporting the triangular vent (butterfly) window and the window gutters. Front windshields just have black rubber grommets, no stainless inserts.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, that's a huge help!

Making progress, slowly. Spent last weekend and part of this rebuilding my gazebo that came down after that 18" of snow. Drilled for the number boards, but the bit wandered after it got through the body filler and hit the die-cast shell, so I'll need to file and shape them into the correct positions, re-fill, sand and smoothing the damage afterwards.

Started attaching the roof detail. It was nice being able to design the antennas into it, but the reality didn't match up with my expectations, as the resin didn't cure straight enough in such a fine line and I wasn't happy with the results. Plus, it was extremely fragile. Re-engineered them without the antenna cross-pieces and with holes in the stanchions, and ran .020 brass wire. Tried first with holes slightly larger than the wire, but they didn't print cleanly, so I doubled the size of the holes and the wire passes through them.

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I currently have 4 of the 5 roof panels attached, waiting on the last to cure, along with the re-proportioned number boards. After printing out the numbers, I decided to make them shorter, which should also increase the odds of them landing on the flat before the nose starts to taper in. Also made the rods longer, as they were barely clearing the filler and the die-cast shell. Hopefully have a cleaned up and primed pic in a few days. At that point, I just need to do the rest of the side detail and I should be close to painting, probably next weekend. Decals? Yeah, as if anyone had any. We'll burn that bridge when we get to it.

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Whew! I'd hoped to have posted more progress pics by now, but I've been down with the Covid. While that would seem like plenty of free time to get stuff done, I haven't had the ambition, mental acuity and temperment all at the same time to get anything done.

Fingers crossed, but at day 10, the odds look good that I'm going to survive this thing and be able to continue my project. Attached the final piece of roof detail this morning. Once I get everything evened out and hit it with a touch of primer, I'll see if I can get a pic up on here. It seemed like a great idea molding in the rivet details to the roof panels, but in practice, I'm losing a lot of it along the way. Oh, well...

Okay, one step forward, 2 steps back department... Was working on the step design for the cab doors, and decided to test with the chassis to see how far down they came. On one hand, I verified that the engine WILL negotiate an O42 curve (it won't look pretty doing so, but it WILL do it). On the other hand, I can't attach the steps to the engine body as I'd planned, as the trucks will knock them off while turning. I'm going to have to figure out some way to attach the steps directly to the trucks. Won't look nearly as good, but it'll work. I believe the donor PA-1 had steps attached to the trucks, now I know why. The steps for the small side doors should be able to be attached directly to the body, as they're beyond the truck's turning radius.

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Moving along, slowly. Being back at work has cut into my free time. Roof detail is all cleaned up, gaps filled, etc. Broke off a stanchion on the antennas while doing so, just sanded it down flat to the surface, printed out a few more, glued on the replacement, and back in business! Nice being able to produce your own custom parts.

What's going on here. Ends are masked to ensure correct position for running number boards. 2 holes are fairly close to where I need them, 2 need some work to move them to the correct locations. And yes, though you can't see it from the crappy picture I took, it's sitting on the chassis on track! Still has one of the test pilots, the finished ones won't go on until they're painted, and I'm hoping to do most painting in 2 passes (tangerine, then blue). Not a big fan of cleaning out the airbrush...

Hoping cocktail straws will be close to the dimension I need for the running number boards posts, once the holes are moved to the correct positions, I want to stick them in the holes so they don't get fouled when I fill in around them. Drilling, filling, sanding, more filling and more sanding are on the agenda for tonight. At that point it should be ready for another coat of primer, and then we start attaching the side detail...

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Have the holes moved correctly, cocktail straw "whiskers" inserted (using one going directly across helps ensure they're aligned correctly), JB Kwikweld curing. Straws are out now, but it won't be fully cured until after I'm asleep, so filing, sanding, filling, etc. will have to wait for morning.

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Another 2 steps forward, 1 step back day. Drilled the holes in the chassis to attach the undercarriage detail, and actually got them in the right places! Unfortunately, the resin the detail is made from is rather brittle, and didn't take well to #4 screws. I can obviously just glue on the one with the air tanks, as it'll never need removed, but I'd like to have the fuel tank removable, as it has the speaker in it. Back to the drawing board...

Was going to use cardstock for much of the side detail, as thin styrene tends to curl when cut from sheets. Unfortunately, the cardstock was too thin. Doubled up, the thickness is fine, but after attempting to glue 2 sheets together, it's all wavy, and I haven't even tried to cut it yet. Searched for brass strips as a possible replacement, but none were thin enough, widthwise. After a bit more searching, I found that Evergreen Scale Models makes styrene strips in just about every size imaginable. Measuring the detail on the engine, it seems their .030 x .080 strips are just what I need! So, the side detail is on pause until they get here...

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Running number board shown is just a prototype, the actual ones are shorter, and have longer pegs to connect to the tubes which hold them and the LEDs.

We have a remedy (hopefully)! Since I can't screw into the drilled resin detail pieces, I'll reverse the process. Cutting the heads off some bolts, going to glue them into the holes (producing threaded studs on the detail pieces), and then attach them to the chassis with nuts.

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Crappy week. Girlfriend's ended up in the hospital on Wednesday. She's back home now, but it's taken away a lot of time I could have spent working on this. Got the undercarriage detail mounted. Next up, finishing the remaining blemishes on the body, and applying the side detail. Then, hopefully, we move on to the painting phase. Strips for the sides will allegedly be here tomorrow.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
330-757-3020

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