Code148 Crossing???

If I am correctly understanding the proposed track layout, isn't it the same as a #6 double crossover, less one main track ?  So the crossing angle would be 19 degrees ?

SZ

I think you’re right, although I would have guessed a 16 degree crossover (if there was one readily available vice scratch built) would be spot on for a #6 turnout.

19 degrees is close enough using a commercial turnout, thanks!

 I did download the templates after I posted for a 14, 19, and 30 degree and the 19 seemed to do the trick.  It’s too long but I think enough can be cut off to make it fit in the space I have.

The diamond's degrees of a double crossover is always double  the turnout frog's  angle of standard matched turnouts on parallel tangent  track. 

A #6 frog is 9.5 degrees = diamond of 19 degrees.  When working that close there is no fudging. It needs to be exact.

The 19 degree diamond just needs a staggered trimming.

In order to splice in a 19 degree diamond the #6 point tips with 4" centerline spacing need to be between 31 5/8" to 32  3/8" apart  depending on the turnout's mfg.

Obviously there is an exact number, these are just the measurements of the double crossovers of various builders on my layout.

Thanks Tom, I must be figuring the degree of the #6 frog wrong.

So...does anyone make a 19 degree crossing or do I need to build one?

Hi Bob...remember Signature Switch owned by Brad Strong...he makes any trackage components you might need.

Bob

Hey Bob!  Brad's got enough of my $$$ this month (6 turnouts) plus he's busy moving/setting up shop.

I've built 6 turnouts, but no crossings, might give this a try.

Bob for a first go-round I believe you will find a turnout is a lot easier to build than a diamond.  You may do well to have Brad knock out a diamond for you.  His diamonds are unbelievably  smooth and quiet.

Dang, didn't need to hear that!!!  Yep, I know his turnouts are smooth, got 6 already.  I wish I had bought at least 1 before I built the 6 from scratch, could have learned a lot just from looking at his first.

Good thing is he'll make them to suit your needs, this crossing will need to be shorter on 2 of the 4 legs.  He made all my turnouts so 3-rail trucks would roll thru them (and so far my 2-rail stuff seems to roll true as well).

Bob, in addition to conventional turnouts Brad has made dozens of custom fit turnouts/diamonds for us.  We just crayon some wrapping paper over the existing track ends then he sends us a CAD which we lay over the track ends to confirm correct fit.   He can fabricate any asymmetrical contraption you need. 

On of the neatest things he has made for us were  long close radius curved turnouts which were spirial easements and a few curved turnouts that are half tangent half curved to fit into a tight area.  

Crayon process:

Above shows what is needed, below shows a curve at the point end of the switch needed.

Above is making the sketch for Brad, below is the full size drawing he provides.

Upon confirmation he fabricates the turnout to drop in place.

Not sure how he does it but he does it well!!!

Here's what I want to do, down at the bottom of the plan:

Bob,

Starting at the lower left of your plan, count up 4 squares and over to the right about 1.8 squares and put a right hand curved turnout there.  You eliminate the right hand turnout and the crossing at the bottom of the plan.

Just a thought.

Ed

Ed, Actually that's what I have in place now

Now that I think about what I was trying to do, it is no better than what I currently have so thanks for pointing that out.

Although, with the crossover I think I can add another spur in the area that you speak about, going up towards the paper mill.

Ed has it right, ixnay the crossover, connect those two legs on the right so you can go onto the turntable from the bottom of the plan. No real RR would have tracks that close and not connecting. Look out for the spaghetti bowl!

Simon

Bob,

I think you still can add that second spur.  It will be another curved turnout or a straight route off the curve past the one I suggested before.    Time to call Brad!

Ed

Thanks guys!  Yep, I need a code 148 right hand switch to replace a section of 40.5” curved Atlas track.

Agree with Ed.  Plus you might consider sliding the switch off the main at the bottom left up as close to the stair as possible, narrow the spacing between main and siding/lead somewhat, and stretch the benchwork in that area to the right 6-12" (it appears to be the only area with a 24" depth), all in the hope of gaining some extra clearance for a second spur or needed turnouts.

Jim