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Happy Father's Day Y'all!

 

I was supposed to have a shop day today breaking the "No train work on the weekends" rule, thanks to my wife granting a reprieve, but I got started so late today that I just chilled and didn't do any work. I'm on T-pole #6 which is all I'm going to make for this batch and then I'm turning to the Substation project.

 

Meanwhile, there's one more tiny detail that I'd like to add to the three poles that have transformers: it's the "fused cut-out" that you see on almost every service pole with a transformer. It's operated with a long insulated pole with a hook on the end to shut power off to a transformer that needs service AND it provides the last-ditch protection to the transformer in case of surge especially from lightening strikes somewhere along the line.

 

For something so simple, consisting three basic parts: an insulator, some contactor hardware and the fuse, they have lots of details.

 

T-Pole Fuse C.U.

 

The insulator is attached at its mid-point to the T-pole's cross arm. There's one for each phase. We've all seen them, but probably haven't given them much thought. I ride around looking at poles all the time now while in this phase of the project.

 

Here's another diagram.

 

Pole Mount Fuse Cutout

 

On this plan it gives some approximate sizes and since I'm modelling 10,000 VAC primary power the insulator's are 11". So the whole deal is about 1/4" sq. in O'scale. They're not big, but would add a lot of interest if the poles are near the layout's front.

 

The contactor mechanism is complex, but the detail would be invisible in our scale unless you were holding it in your hand under a magnifying glass so it would just be approximated. I think the insulator could be the thread parts of a 2-56 machine screw. It could also be made with styrene rod with some grooves cut into it. In real life, the upper part housing the switch points is complex due to giving a spark path to extinguish the arc that occurs when you suddenly try to turn off 10,000 Volts.

 

Pole-mounted Transformers 4

 

In the above you can see the fuse cut-outs feeding the primary lines to the transformers. 

 

I'll play around with different approaches and see what comes up. It would be a nice piece that could be lost-wax cast out of brass. All you'd have to would be paint the insulator gray or white and the fuse gray and leave the rest natural metal. But I don't believe those details exist outside of my head.

 

Tomorrow, I'll get back to "work".

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Images (3)
  • T-Pole Fuse C.U.
  • Pole Mount Fuse Cutout
  • Pole-mounted Transformers 4
Last edited by Trainman2001

Thanks guys! Actually Mark, they're probably the ONLY miniature FCUs you've ever seen. It's not something that model railroaders usually build (other than slightly crazy people like me). I'm probably compensating that I don't have two-rail, hand-laid, scale 125 pound steel track. From the outset, I said that I was going to try and create as realistic a railroad as I with the limitation of having hi-rail, over-sized, three-rail track. Onward and upward!

I think it's a form of neurosis... AMS (advanced modelers' syndrome). I showed pics today to the guys at Roundhouse Trains and they all said that I shouldn't be doing that since I running 3-rail, and that I have too much time on my hands. It's the blessing of being retired AND being in good health. As to the 3-rail... I've never seen it written any where that we 3-railers can't do cool stuff.

Originally Posted by Trainman2001:

I think it's a form of neurosis... AMS (advanced modelers' syndrome). I showed pics today to the guys at Roundhouse Trains and they all said that I shouldn't be doing that since I running 3-rail, and that I have too much time on my hands. It's the blessing of being retired AND being in good health. As to the 3-rail... I've never seen it written any where that we 3-railers can't do cool stuff.

AMS!  I love it!

I agree with you.  Those guys at Roundhouse Trains are just jealous.  

Last edited by Mark Boyce
Originally Posted by Trainman2001:

Thanks guys! Actually Mark, they're probably the ONLY miniature FCUs you've ever seen. It's not something that model railroaders usually build (other than slightly crazy people like me). I'm probably compensating that I don't have two-rail, hand-laid, scale 125 pound steel track. From the outset, I said that I was going to try and create as realistic a railroad as I with the limitation of having hi-rail, over-sized, three-rail track. Onward and upward!

Love the progress! I can only hope mine turns out a fraction as well.

Your poles and fused cutouts, etc., are all great looking.  I really enjoy this thread and your work and look forward to every new post.

 

I'm upset with myself that I can't find better photos of the two electrical poles I scratch built.  I thought I saved them but half an hour just now could not find them.  I removed them during some building relocation two years ago  . . .   I built and wired those two by the book (the Lineman and Cableman's Handbook, from the 1970s, my training book back then).  In this one fuzzy picture you can just make out the FCUs out of styrene - tiny little dots on the crossarm, and I created and wired to an entire three-transformer Y-bank and the service wires to my train station.  I actually modeled the fuse barrels and the frame as you did, and wired it all correctly including even the grounded wire down the pole, etc. 

 

I think a lot of us like to go "overboard" with details that matter to us.  It's yet one more aspect of the hobby I really like. 

 

Pole

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Images (1)
  • Pole
Last edited by Lee Willis
Originally Posted by Trainman2001:

Thanks all!

 

Lee, from what  . . . . 

I'll cut the heads and tails off, drill the end for some brass rods that will serve as attachment points, and leave them black which is prototypically correct.

Thanks!  Nice detail is some of the photos.  And the idea with those plastic screws is great.  I love it!  

 

I think I still have the two poles I made - have to find them - they will be in a box or low shelf somewhere.  I have wanted to make some H-frame structures, too.  I've designed many transmission lines in my time, and we have a hole sectino of people at work who walk ROWs and inspect and categorize old ones for repair and refubishment - whoe just finished do that to 1,130 of them.  They are near and dear to my heart.

Thanks Lee. It's great to hear from folks who have REAL experience in these things. A long time ago and far, far away, I worked as a mechanical technician at a company named American Electronic Labs, AEL for short. They're still in business owned by a large British military conglomerate.

 

Anyway... they made all kinds of sophisticated communications and electronic warfare stuff and had telephone poles in their back lot on which they mounted experimental antennas and stuff and we had to be trained to climb them. They taught me how to use pole spikes and I was terrible at it.

 

It was a summer job while I was in college so they really didn't want me up on the poles anyhow. I worked there from the summer of my freshman year until a year after I graduated. Each summer I got a raise until I was receiving journeyman's wages at the end.

 

The fellows were highly talented and could do literally anything. They could machine, weld, work precision sheet metal, install, wire, do field work...anything. And they were very helpful in teaching me. When I became a shop teacher, that vast generalist experience really paid off. 

 

The time was 1964 through 1968 so Viet Nam was really heating up and their business was booming.

 

 

Over the course of a lifetime, one can see how past experiences can be used much later in life.  It is good you were able to pass some of it along to your students.  While I was exposed to the power poles and towers, I will be more in my element once you get to building your substation.  I spent 13 years in substations in my younger days, both climbing the structures to replace insulators to working on the controls as a field engineer.  Now I have been in Telecommunications for 18 years where I started out in the mid '70s.  With 4 layoffs to my 'credit' I always seemed to wind up in the utilities business one way or the other.  We even get into video now, so you will need to add copper twisted pair cables, television coax, and fiber optics to your poles.    Just kidding.  I think the power lines and equipment is the most visible so they convey the illusion of a complete utility system on poles.  Only Lee and I will be scrutinizing them to the hilt, and I must say, you are doing the best job I have ever seen!!  I probably will never get to the point of doing anything more than the basics.  Too much time for work, too little time for O gauge railroading!!  Keep running those trains too!

Trainman 2001 would you consider making 24 of your FCUs for sale to me? I already have been making the poles myself and did not think of things like this for added realism on the layout. When I put my poles together I drilled holes and used wacko glue (crazy glue) HA-HA with sewing pins and just cut off the extra length. The insulators are plastic see through that ( I bought two types ) are green and the other ones are A light blue to try to match the old insulaters. While looking at your photos the nut and bolts look so much better than the pin heads. I was not aware that anyone made such small nuts and bolts. Fine job on the poles and on everything you are doing. Choo Choo Kenny

First of all, thanks again to everyone for the support.

 

Next. Lee and Mark, I will be calling upon your expertise when I get into the substation construction. I assure you.

 

Kenny, ideally, I need to make a perfect master and get them resin cast. To hand build all 24 isn't something I'm looking forward to since it basically took a week to build 9 of them. Let me find out if I can get them case and then we can discuss what to do.

 

I built 3 more HV towers today.

 

 HV Tower 05 

I changed my method a bit. Instead of notching the poles, I sanded a curved notch into the cross pieces. This simplified construction and allowed me to use the Dremel to make the cuts instead of sawing in the miter box and hand carving the notches. None of these poles support any kind of load so the strength of the glue joints is not that important. It's not like I'm building a working trestle which will support dead and live train loads.

 

 

HV Tower 04

 

I found out that I was rushing a bit when the glue joints fell apart when I was lifting the assembly away from the pins to turn it over and put the diagonal brace on the other side. I then re-glued and used clamps to let the glue set properly.

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Images (2)
  • HV Tower 05
  • HV Tower 04

Finished all five of the HV towers and got to work on the insulators. Here's the first one completed.

 

HV Tower 06

 

I sawed off the screw head, sanded both ends flat and square on the True Sander, and then drilled an 0.032" hole on both ends to accept the .032" brass wire. I flattened the external wire to make it look like the hanger that screws onto the HV conductor.

 

For those that would like to duplicate this kind of "insulator", here's a shot of the packet it comes in. I bought it at Lowes. It's in one of the fancy drawers in their screws and bolts dept.

 

Fastener Label

 

I only have 10 of them so I'll have to go back to the store and get a lot more. They're not cheap, so for the sub-station, I may have to revert to machining my own out of either brass or aluminum. Since I know how to do this now, I'm not worried about it.

 

In looking at it some more, I realize that I need to put the NBWs to finish them up. I'll do that tomorrow.

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Images (2)
  • HV Tower 06
  • Fastener Label
Last edited by Trainman2001

I'm glad to be missed. We were on a 10 day trip back East to visit with family and friends. We did the 4th at State College, PA where my son is an eye doctor. They have great fireworks for a small town. I'm back now and went to Lowe's to pick up more of the "insulator" fasteners. I needed 6 and they only had 4 in stock. All the way to Philly and back I was checking out all kinds of power lines. I found some that were almost exactly what I was building and also found many different styles. Almost anything goes. I did notice that my HV towers are a bit too heavily built. I could have used thinner stock for all the cross pieces. My diagonal braces are about the right size. Tomorrow I'll be back on the bench.

I'm glad people are paying attention...;-)

 

I have slacked off a bit, but that stops tomorrow. I had to buy more "insulators" and dowels which I did today. I want to make 3 more plain t-poles and then get onto the substation. I still haven't decided to use the MTH plastic transformer load from the heavy-duty flatcar and get something else to put on the car, of scratchbuild my own transformer for the substation. Modifying the MTH unit would probably go much faster, but making my own would enable me to enhance the surface detail a lot. I decide once I get into the project.

Originally Posted by Trainman2001:

I'm glad people are paying attention...;-)

 

I have slacked off a bit, but that stops tomorrow. I had to buy more "insulators" and dowels which I did today. I want to make 3 more plain t-poles and then get onto the substation. I still haven't decided to use the MTH plastic transformer load from the heavy-duty flatcar and get something else to put on the car, of scratchbuild my own transformer for the substation. Modifying the MTH unit would probably go much faster, but making my own would enable me to enhance the surface detail a lot. I decide once I get into the project.

Yup, we are paying attention.  Glad you are back on it.

Back to work...

 

I finalized the detailing on the HV towers and added the last two insulators. I added some NBWs on the big timbers and then added the "guard wire" insulators to the very top. The guard wires are a ground that's designed to thwart lightening strikes and protect the HV lines. Again, I don't think I'm going to string lines, but if I do, the insulators are waiting.

 HV Tower Complete

I then started on the substation. While still not deciding to make a scratch-built Xformer or use the existing MTH Xformer.

 

I began work with the coolant tank since this seemed like the most challenging piece on the Xformer and if comes out it bodes well for the rest. I drew a four-part bracket that's "welded" to the tank's bottom. To form the tank I found a mailing tube I had laying around that's the perfect diameter. Around this I formed a jacket with 0.010" styrene sheet and glued the edge with solvent cement. The seam's big and it meant adjusting the bracket that sits below it, which I describe in more detail further on.

 

Xfrmr tank 01

 For the ends I cut circles out of 0.020" styrene and solvent glued them to the wrapper. The mailing tube was inside.

 

Xfrmr tank .02

 

For the brackets I used 0.020" sheet styrene for the frames and 0.010" X 0.080" strip styrene for the webs. I laid the pieces out by hand (instead of my usual pasting the drawings directly on the plastic) since I didn't print out enough copies of the plans and was too lazy to go upstairs and print more copies.

 

I drilled out the corners to make them rounded and then cut the material between the holes. I then cut the part out of the sheet. Doing it this way made it easier to hold onto the part while I was working on the inside profiles.

 

Xfrmr tank 05

 

The webs were solvent glued to the center. This was easier to do than it looked.

 

Xfrmr tank 03

 

For the upper bracket I did it the same way as the lower bracket.

 

Xfrmr tank 06

 

The upper bracket has to seat tightly against the tank for a good glue joint. Since the seam is going on the bottom so it won't be seen, the bracket's contour had to be adjusted to fit it.

 

Xfrmr tank 08

Xfrmr tank 07

 

Tomorrow I'll put the webbing on the upper brackets and then decide on what XFormer body to use. I will also install some styrene angle cross bracing between the tank brackets to stiff it up. I'm also putting a horizontal piece under the tank where the brackets join to further strengthen the structure.

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Images (6)
  • Xfrmr tank .02
  • Xfrmr tank 05
  • Xfrmr tank 03
  • Xfrmr tank 06
  • Xfrmr tank 08
  • Xfrmr tank 07

The transformer is coming together nicely. I made my decision... in order to ensure that the Conservator Tank is properly attached to the transformer's tank, I'm scratch-building the entire transformer using dimension from my plans and the MTH existing one.

 

Before getting into that, I finished up the Conservator. After putting the webbing on the upper brackets, I added a piece of 0.040" X 0.080" of styrene between the upper and lower brackets to reinforce that joint, then glued the upper and lower together. I marked the location on the drum where the brackets would go and then carefully held each in place and tack glued to the jacket with solvent and the Touch-n-flow applicator. Once in place I sprayed the joint with accelerator and used medium CA to reinforce this delicate joint.

 Xfrmr tank 09

I added some additional cross-bracing with some small styrene angle and a couple more braces at the top for further reinforcement. I then added some of the same 0.010" X 0.080" thin stock used for the webs as the strapping that encircles the conservator tank. Again, I tacked one end, wrapped it around and tacked near the other end. Once it was stable I trimmed the banding to fit tightly against the brackets. Finally, I put a thin bead of liquid cement around the band's perimeter.

 

Just to see how it looked I laid it on the MTH transformer.

  

Xfrmr tank 10  

Xfrmr tank 11

At this point I saw that the gluing area on the MTH unit was small and I would have to add material. With that, I decided to just go ahead and make another unit. I took the measurements directly off the MTH unit and will make it almost the same except for the surface details. Instead of molded on conduits and other items, they will be separately added. I'm going to add a substantial control box on the end under the conservator. I used my corner clamps to good use on this project since I'm basically making a box.

 

Xfmr Body 01a

After edge gluing the 0.040" pieces of sheet stock, I added 1/4" sq. corner reinforcements. I then went back and added longitudinal reinforcements on the top and bottom flush with the edges to both make the sides straight (they were a bit bowed) and to increase the surface available for gluing on the top and bottom plates.

 

Xfmr Body 03

I measured and cut the top and bottom (they're the same size) and briefly clamped them to ensure the glue was setting properly.

 

Xfmr Body 04I designed the XFormer to sit on I-beams so I cut up some Plastruct I-Beam stock. I used three longitudinal members and then cut a bunch of stub ends to simulator I-beam cross members. A transformer of this size with all the attachments would weigh over 300 tons and would need substantial footings to support it. 

 Xfmr Body 05

 Xfmr Body 06

For the side reinforcement I used a Starrett Surface gauge on plate glass. I took the measurements with the MTH transformer sitting upside down since there are two lugs protruding from the bottom that keys it into the flat car body. I don't want to take them off. I then transferred the measurement to the new Xfmr sitting on its top. The groove made by the gauge's scribe made a convenient lip to align the piece of 0.040" stock that I cut for the reinforcements.

 

Xfmr Body 07

Here's the first three in place.

 

Xfmr Body 08

After putting the 3 bands on each side, I added more that will serve as the mounting for the conservator brackets. This will ensure that there's sufficient glue surface for a strong joint. Notice the size of a scale figure. It's a big transformer.

 

Xfmr Body 09

Tomorrow, I continue adding surface details and start working on another challenging component: the radiators and their fans. If you all remember, I bought HO gauge EMD radiator fans that will serve as the fans on this project. While they're a little different, they're highly detailed and will look very convincing.

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Images (11)
  • Xfrmr tank 09
  • Xfrmr tank 10
  • Xfrmr tank 11
  • Xfmr Body 01a
  • Xfmr Body 03
  • Xfmr Body 04
  • Xfmr Body 07
  • Xfmr Body 08
  • Xfmr Body 09
  • Xfmr Body 05
  • Xfmr Body 06
Last edited by Trainman2001

Trainman, I got caught up with all of your activity for the last couple of months. Always great stuff. What I most like is when things happen you always see this as challenge and an opportunity to come up with solutions. It is one of the values that I now apply to my own layout build, because as you know, many plans never go according to form. Anyway, hope to get an opportunity to talk in person sometime while I am in KY.

Ken

Thanks guys! Other than the Conservator, this was the easy stuff. The radiators and fans will challenge as will the lightening arresting stack on the other side. I'm deciding whether to use the other larger plastic screws or machine my own insulators (bushings) for the primary side. I now know that I can machine a decent looking insulator, it's just going to take a lot of time and effort. I could make them tapered like many are. If I can nail the Xformer I'm sure that the other switchgear will be much easier (famous last words).

Originally Posted by Lee Willis:
Originally Posted by Trainman2001:

 . . .  If I can nail the Xformer I'm sure that the other switchgear will be much easier (famous last words).

Looking fantastic!   Conservator and everything so far is superb detail.

 

I think you are only sort of correct.  The switchgear (breakers, manual switches) is only a little more complex than a transformer but smaller - I'd say its a wash overall  which is more work to model, a simple, dead-tank breaker (the type of make unless it is new technology) or a transformer.  

 

But for me what was always the most difficult to model, well, was the buswork itself (the skeletal frame that stands over and around the transformers and breakers and holds the HV and MV buses up, etc., and the attached manual switches and all the tiny little ancillary equipment.  There is just a lot of it and its more complex than it one might think. Most of the insulators in a substation are in the buswork.

 

I have attached a.pdf of aseminar workshop slide set that has pictures ofalot of this stuff.  You probablyknowall this stuff but in case the pictures help . . . .

I agree with Lee, the structure supporting the the buswork, switches, etcetera, can be very complicated.  If you want something less complicated, low profile bus work can be done, but that is a more modern look.  Something like Page 106 and 107 in Lee's excellent presentation. I don't know if there is a different name; we called it low profile.  

 

It's funny, I started my career in telecom for a power company 38 years ago this Saturday, then I moved to the fault protection and controls in substations and power stations.  I was laid off after 20 years.  I then found a job with a Telecom, taking me back to my early career, and have worked in telecom for almost 18 years now.  When I worked in the field for this telecom, I often went in the substations for trouble calls.  I can't get away form it. 

Last edited by Mark Boyce
Originally Posted by Mark Boyce:

Lee,

You named the presentation Part 2.  I am curious what is in Part 1.

Thanks.

It is a six part course the company I founded offers as an introduction to the power industry, designed for new employees at utilities.  We give it in house to, for example, 60 new employees hired this year into the engineering department of a large utility.  Part 1 is basically Alternating Current 101 (a majority of new engineers hired by electric utilities have never had a single course in power!), another section covers the organization of the utility industry, who regulates and how, etc.  Other parts talk about how a utility works inside, different departments, etc.  I haven't taught this course in several years but its one of my favorites because its broad, the students are young and eager, and its fairly easy to teach.  

Originally Posted by Lee Willis:
Originally Posted by Mark Boyce:

Lee,

You named the presentation Part 2.  I am curious what is in Part 1.

Thanks.

It is a six part course the company I founded offers as an introduction to the power industry, designed for new employees at utilities.  We give it in house to, for example, 60 new employees hired this year into the engineering department of a large utility.  Part 1 is basically Alternating Current 101 (a majority of new engineers hired by electric utilities have never had a single course in power!), another section covers the organization of the utility industry, who regulates and how, etc.  Other parts talk about how a utility works inside, different departments, etc.  I haven't taught this course in several years but its one of my favorites because its broad, the students are young and eager, and its fairly easy to teach.  

That sounds great.  I know most graduates don't know anything about the power industry nor telecommunications either.  We had some basis of understanding when we graduated years ago.  I do get impressed with the enthusiasm younger engineers have.  Soon they are able to run circles around me.

Really great stuff Lee! In my research I had found many of the details you included, but still learned more. The Xfrmer I'm building is probably too big for a distribution station, but I'm going with it anyway. You're right about the bus system, but I'm going to simplify it a bit. I noticed in your course you didn't talk about lightening protection. It seems that a lot of the details around the substation are lightening related.

 

Today Number 1 grandson was here so besides working on the transformer, we put the first coat of paint on his F-22 kit and I worked with him to perfect his ability to use an air brush. It's coming out as a nice model and he's been working on it, on and off, for as long as I've been building the railroad.

 

I finished the radiator "boxes". I now have to figure out how to best simulate the actual cooling fin portion. It's been a nice scratch-building sub-project that had its own challenges.

 

I shaped one end plate by first locating the position of the oil manifold's 1/4" holes. I pilot drilled them and then used my battery DeWalt to drill the hole in the 0.040" styrene since I could control the speed very carefully. Then I trimmed the angle cuts at the ends. It looked right so I needed five more. Grandson suggested stacking them and cutting them at once. He's a good problem solver. I have to admit that I already figured that out, but gave him credit for a good idea. 

 Xfmr radiators 01

Again I drilled the holes first and then trimmed the ends using a razor saw over my bench hook.

 

Xfmr radiators 03

 

The ends had tapered a bit so I did a touch up job on the belt sander. With styrene you have to sand very gently since you'd end up melting more than sanding if you lean into it too much.

 

The front ends of the radiators get a overlay that adds some interest to the assembly. I'm using thin, 0.010" styrene for this. I tried to drill it, but regardless of how I turned the drill, it chewed the heck out of it and was a total fiasco. I realized I had to punch the holes. A #6 drill was the diameter of the end curves so I did one of my jerry-rigged, poor-man's punch scheme. For punching soft materials this method works pretty well.

 

It goes like this. First grind the back end of the drill to a punch shape. In this case I held the drill at 45º to the corner of the grinding wheel to impart a v-shaped cut to the drill's end. I grind until the newly ground surface extends to the entire edge of the drill.

 

I then take the drill to the drill press and using the "normal" end, drill a hole in some convenient piece of metal. Since I was punching styrene it didn't matter that I used aluminum. The workpiece should be clamped securely to the machine's table.

 

Now, take the drill out and insert it upside down into the chuck. Don't tighten it yet. Since you're trying to tighten it about the flutes, the drill isn't actually round and will clamp at any any and will not re-enter the die hole that you cut. So to ensure that the drill will re-enter the die, let the drill drop into the hole and bring the chuck down until the drill bottoms out in the chuck. While holding everything in this position, tighten the drill in the chuck and the punch is ready.

 

Xfmr radiators 04 05

 

The only thing I would do differently if I were to do this again would be to get a bit more sophisticated in how I positioned the work piece under the punch. In this case I just eyeballed the punch over a couple of cross hairs. It needed a fence where I could actually keep the holes on each end aligned.

 

Xfmr radiators 02

 

To complete the detail I just carefully cut the material between the holes and cleaned it up with a half-round file. 

 

This overlay was attached to the end cap with liquid cement with the touch-n-flow.

 

Xfmr radiators 07

 

I didn't want to waste too much material making these radiators. They don't need much structural strength so I used a wood block cut on the chop saw to the inside dimension to hold the end caps apart. After carefully positioning the end caps onto the block using a 1/4" dowel to align the oil manifold mounting holes, I glued it all together with thin CA and accelerator.

 

Xfmr radiators 08

 

I was skinning this with 0.010" which is very flimsy, so I added some cross members flush with the end caps. I then glued the thin sheet to the sides. The first piece I left the end really long thinking I'll just trim later, but I quickly found out that the angled ends made cutting it more difficult. From then on I pre-trimmed the skin close to final length and trimmed the remaining 1/32" with a razor blade.

 

Xfmr radiators 09

 

With the skins on I measured and cut each top piece so it was a snug fit between the end caps. This step was a bit finicky and took some time and many scrapped pieces.

 

Xfmr radiators 10

 

After the glue dried I took a sanding stick and filed all the edges so it looks like a real full-size assembly. By the end of the work session, I had all three radiators housings finished waiting for the detailing on the two ends that are actually going to be visible.

 

Xfmr radiators 11

 

I'm thinking that I'm going to fabricate the radiator fins by carefully alternating thin pieces of styrene standing on their ends and then their sides. I'll also have to made a standoff to support the fans.

 

Just as a refresher, here's the plans I drew for the transformer.

 

Transformer Project p 1

Attachments

Images (10)
  • Xfmr radiators 01
  • Xfmr radiators 03
  • Xfmr radiators 04 05
  • Xfmr radiators 02
  • Xfmr radiators 07
  • Xfmr radiators 08
  • Xfmr radiators 09
  • Xfmr radiators 10
  • Xfmr radiators 11
  • Transformer Project p 1

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