Converting 3 rail engines to 2 rail

Thanks to all that have posted about the availability of O scale Track offered by Tru-Scale, many moons ago.

The picture I posted was the Later?? product offered by them in HO Scale.  Although from what I have been able to tell, they also continued to offer their wood based track and switch system.  At some point in the mid-1960's they were bought out by Aurora Plastics Corp. and most of their HO building kits were then "boxed" accordingly.

The dimensions of the switch are the same as a "standard" Atlas HO Switch.  9" Length Straight with diverging 1/3 18" radius spur.  Kinda the standard size for HO sectional Track.  BTW would be equivalent to 3R O72 Switch with a 18" straight section. (just doubled).

I still intend to do a more in depth post on the Tru-Scale Switches in the near future.

@harmonyards I sent again.  If you don't get this one, if you would be so kind to start one from your end.  My email is in my profile.  Thanks!

@mwb posted:

Tru-Scale stuff is something that shows up at meets like Chicago; one year there will be a whole table piled with the stuff and then you won't see it for several years.

I was at a local train show about a year ago and was looking at a box that had a Lionel shorty truss bridge in a bag marked $5.00. As I handed the seller the cash and started to leave, he said that the fiver was for the whole box. It was loaded with several hundred dollars (ebay pricing) worth of TruScale HO track and switches. The stuff is still out there.

One comment, the O scale stuff with ties and "tie plates" was milled out for code172 rail; at least all that I have handled.

@roll_the_dice posted:

@harmonyards I sent again.  If you don't get this one, if you would be so kind to start one from your end.  My email is in my profile.  Thanks!

I gotcha, and replied,…

Pat

@PRRMP54 posted:

...One comment, the O scale stuff with ties and "tie plates" was milled out for code172 rail; at least all that I have handled.

True.

At one time I had a bunch of Tru Scale roadbed, including some turnouts. Had just enough code 172 to enable me to cobble together some sections, but that stuff was hard to find, even "as far back" as the mid '90s...

Mark in Oregon

New to the forum. I have a 3r to 2r project I am considering and would like to know who to contact. It is a Lionel Zepher train set.  
I have done a few freight car conversions but this is way beyond my skill level.
Thanks.

Dear Fred,
Nice to see you in the OGR forum.

Fred is one of our Cherry Valley members !

John

@John Sethian posted:

THEY DID!

I am sure this is known by most forumites, but just to be sure.....

MTH 3-2 switchable locomotives come in two varieties.  Those product numbers with a -1 ending (i.e. 20-xxxx-1) came with hi rail wheels, those with product numbers ending in -2 (i.e. 20-xxxx-2)  came with scale wheels.

Despite the relative ease by which 3-2 locos can be changed electrically from 3 rail to 2 rail operation, hi rail wheels run much better on three rail track, and scale wheels run much better on 2 rail track.  All of this is discussed in this thread

The above two paragraphs are true whether the loco is steam or diesel. But there are differences:

For Diesels

On any MTH 3-2 diesel:  MTH scale wheel sets can be swapped for hi rail wheel sets, and conversely, hi rail wheel sets can be swapped scale wheel sets.  These wheel sets are universal, and MTH makes sets for both 2 and 3 axle trucks. They are readily available.

To even further complicate things, if that locomotive, or more specifically its trucks,  was EVER issued with scale wheels, the wheel sets can be swapped. AND the loco can be switched to run on 2 rail.  Even if not advertised as 3-2.   For example, the MTH Premier CNJ Train Master was never offered  with scale wheels.  But other Premier Train Masters were.  So you can still covert a 3 rail CNJ Train master to 2 rail operation by flipping the switch and installing scale wheel sets.

Fixing the pilots (as shown above) is another story. Extending the handrails down the steps (which I have not done yet in this FM, is also another story.)

For Steam

In principle you can do the above on MTH 3-2 Steam Locos.  But finding the 2 rail wheel sets can be a problem.  MTH does not make them available, and probably the only way you could get them would be to find a 2 rail loco.  In which case you don't need to find them.

Love your FM.

@harley rider posted:

Love your FM.

Some MTH steam were offered in 2 rail, and I know for fact some 2 rail drive blocks still exist at mthpartsandsales.com……along with 2 rail pilot & trailing trucks. This is not to say that all are available, but it’s definitely worth looking into if you find that certain steam locomotive you just gotta have……

Pat

Dear Pat,

please contact me in regards to information on your 3 to 2 rail conversions.

Thank you!

john P Dunn Sr

609-432-2871

jdunn8888@comcast.net

@harmonyards posted:

Pat

Pat, that is one beautiful engine. Don’t ever paint it.

@romiller49 posted:

Pat, that is one beautiful engine. Don’t ever paint it.

Oh yes Rod, she’s getting painted, …..cab # 5333, ….purposely picked that no. as it was the last Hudson to run down Washington St. in Syracuse, so with Phil’s epic Hudson, I’ll have the last down the street, and the first into the new station,…….don’t worry, ….she’ll be painted to perfection!…..Phil’s new model is sure a looker!!….so I gotta be on my A game!!…….😉

Pat

I am following with interest. I was also a happy customer of the late Joe F. I have owned a couple of his 3R Diecast converted steam engines. Just amazing work and flawless running. I'm always on the lookout for his conversions to purchase. I find diecast more robust and easier to deal with than brass. Probably just the ex-3Railer in me. Anyways, if someone else is picking up the torch, I can think of several projects I would like to do.

@jonnyspeed posted:

I find diecast more robust and easier to deal with than brass.

Two Words: Zinc Pest

ECI

@EastCoastIron posted:

Two Words: Zinc Pest

ECI

Not arguing with you or saying it can't happen, but I've never had that problem in over 45 years of modeling. I have had solder joints give up and require repair and repainting. As I don't have the setup to resolder and paint, I'd much rather work with Diecast. Just my personal preference.

@EastCoastIron posted:

Two Words: Zinc Pest

ECI

ECI,

I take it that it's plainly obvious that every zinc casting has a problem.  Every last one ever made.

Beware of people who say "It's simple".  Although you haven't explicitly said these two words, it's clear from the brevity of your statement that this what you meant.

Unfortunately it never is.  There's always good and bad with everything, including brass.

Mike

@Mellow Hudson Mike posted:

ECI,

I take it that it's plainly obvious that every zinc casting has a problem.  Every last one ever made.

Mike

You said it, NOT me. I prefer brass over that possibility because I can repair brass. It's a choice. Nothing more nothing less. You're not as mellow as your name says!

ECI

@jonnyspeed posted:

I am following with interest. I was also a happy customer of the late Joe F. I have owned a couple of his 3R Diecast converted steam engines. Just amazing work and flawless running. I'm always on the lookout for his conversions to purchase. I find diecast more robust and easier to deal with than brass. Probably just the ex-3Railer in me. Anyways, if someone else is picking up the torch, I can think of several projects I would like to do.

Same.

I also prefer die-cast.  ALL die castings will probably develop intra-granular corrosion, eventually.  I'm only concerned with the next ~40 years.  Whatever happens after that will be someone else's problem!

@Ted S posted:

I'm only concerned with the next ~40 years.  Whatever happens after that will be someone else's problem!

Only the next 40 years............that's half a lifetime for most! LOL

ECI

@jonnyspeed posted:

Not arguing with you or saying it can't happen, but I've never had that problem in over 45 years of modeling.

You know that you have just invoked the curse!

ECI

I like brass steam engines, and plastic diesels. You never know when the Zinc will deteriorate.

@EastCoastIron posted:

You know that you have just invoked the curse!

ECI

Probably. I still prefer Diecast Steam and Plastic Diesels though. I just bought a $1300 Brass PSC SW-1 diesel and even though it was packed immaculately, several detail parts were loose, and the coupler mount was totally unsoldered. I always seem to have these problems with Brass. Thankfully I purchased from BrassTrains and they are going to fix it for me, but I would have preferred a plastic model if it existed.

@jonnyspeed posted:

Probably. I still prefer Diecast Steam and Plastic Diesels though. I just bought a $1300 Brass PSC SW-1 diesel and even though it was packed immaculately, several detail parts were loose, and the coupler mount was totally unsoldered. I always seem to have these problems with Brass. Thankfully I purchased from BrassTrains and they are going to fix it for me, but I would have preferred a plastic model if it existed.

Don't take this as mean spirited or bashing you, it is meant to be helpful.

B.T. does sell brass that is NOT perfect. If you look at the numeric rating, it will tell you problems related to a particular item. Be sure you always check that out! Their rating system confuses me a bit, but there ain't NO Bo Dereks! I've never seen anything over 8.7 or so. Anyhow they will note any loose parts (they see).

Their packing has always been impeccable, and I have sent then a few things for sale with NO problems, so if it's packed correctly there are usually NO problems.

Another possibility is you have a Gorilla for a mail carrier. I always give my carrier a few bucks for Christmas and I get excellent service.  That said, if stuff is packed correctly, it usually makes it OK, and BT knows their stuff.

If you really want plastic, Atlas made/makes? a switcher SW8/9? and from what I've read they were well thought of.

Good Luck

ECI