Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Hello Joe

 I actually ripped a piece of pine 2x4 into 3/16" beams and purchased some 1/4" basswood(less hassle than cutting your own).

   I would like to find a good accurate mini table saw(4" blade) to do more accurate cuts but use my basic table saw for now.

 I have assembled the sides and fronts, so far.

   I will be working on the roof and cross bracing next. I can see myself building a few more CPR structures(sand house comes to mind).

   Here are few more pics of the progress from today

 AlIMG_20170305_171031_editIMG_20170305_171046_editIMG_20170305_230243_editIMG_20170305_230358_editIMG_20170305_230434_editIMG_20170305_230555_edit

Attachments

Images (6)
  • IMG_20170305_171031_edit
  • IMG_20170305_171046_edit
  • IMG_20170305_230243_edit
  • IMG_20170305_230358_edit
  • IMG_20170305_230434_edit
  • IMG_20170305_230555_edit

Hi Al,

I also scratch built my coal tower. It's been about ten years since that build, and I still remember it being at least 3 months of evenings to complete it. Worth taking your time, and making it special since such structure become favorites for visitors, and as such receive close inspection. Scratch building is why I'm in O scale...nice to see your doing the same.

Bob

I had purchased a lot of Kapplar lumber, in dimension pieces, which seemed a bit easier to work with.  This inside detail of a Korber 304 Round House was done with Kapplar Lumber.  Most is Bass wood, a bit, more straight, and maintains straight and true, IMO.    Can be stained most any color you want.  Again beautiful project thanks for posting.    Mike CT.  

Last edited by Mike CT

 I purchased a mini table saw last Tuesday of the 'bay and it showed before the weekend! So I have started cutting the bracing and installing.

   Seems to be going a lot better with the saw for sure.

 I had a first run of the GGD coaling tower. It was detailed and the G scale staircase was removed and an O scale version installed.

   I sold it to a fellow 3 Railer in town here.

 I was itching to build a CPR Version and so far, it's been a great project.

   Here are a few more pics showing the bracing

 AlIMG_20170312_180634IMG_20170312_180621IMG_20170312_153259

Attachments

Images (3)
  • IMG_20170312_180634
  • IMG_20170312_180621
  • IMG_20170312_153259

Laid out the windows for the top sections of the tower. Cut out one end tonite, to see how they will look. They are a little over-size(by 6" scale) and have the incorrect # of panes, but close enough. The windows were kitbashed from extra's from my Atlas roundhouse kits

    I have been thinking about having operating chutes(atleast the front two). This would be a cool feature, if I can pull it off.

 Hopefully, have the roof assembly completed this weekend and maybe all the ladder details, etc

AlIMG_20170315_173544IMG_20170316_184013IMG_20170316_162549_edit

Attachments

Images (3)
  • IMG_20170315_173544
  • IMG_20170316_184013
  • IMG_20170316_162549_edit

Good job! I like the saw! Been thinking about that for a while. All I have is a big chop saw, saber saw and Skil Saw. Great for building a layout and terrible for cutting O'scale pieces.

Here's a Gloor Craft coaling tower I built in 1997. I re-designed the chutes to make them sort-of operational and added lighting and NBW castings. The feeder track runs down the center, but I never installed an opening in the Ross track to simulate an unloading pit.

Coal Station two

 

 

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Coal Station two

 Thank you Pennsynut for the kind words.

 I have purchased a bunch of Plastruct motors and pulleys for the operational end of things. Approx $25. This more $$ than I had into the project thus far lol.

 I will make the chutes out of brass stock and figure out how I will design the system to work.

   I am doing this on the fly, so bear with me.

 I have drilled out where I will install 2-56 bolt and nut detail. Of course there is an approx 6"x6" plate behind each nut(so how do I do that?lol)

   Here are some updated pics taken outside, so you can see how I managed to glue it all together.

AlIMG_20170319_152753_editIMG_20170319_152819_editIMG_20170319_152916_editIMG_20170319_153027_editIMG_20170319_153105IMG_20170319_153432IMG_20170319_154233

Attachments

Images (7)
  • IMG_20170319_152753_edit
  • IMG_20170319_152819_edit
  • IMG_20170319_152916_edit
  • IMG_20170319_153027_edit
  • IMG_20170319_153105
  • IMG_20170319_153432
  • IMG_20170319_154233

Hello CoachJoe

 To scribe the MDF(masonite) I first use a sanding block to remove the shiny glossy finish. This is essential to have white glue adhere correctly to bare "wood"lol.

 I mark out my lines in pencil. Then, bring out the set square and I use a razor saw corner and scribe the line.

 You can go over the line back and forth, to get the "depth" of line you like.

 Home Depot sold 1/8" MDF at one time but now only Masonite board seems available.

   I hope you go ahead with some of your own projects and see how "easy" it is to make your own projects.

   The learning is in the mistakes and I have made a few with this project lol. It's all good and try never to get discouraged.

 There is an in credible pool of talent on the OGR forum and lots to see and learn from others here.

 Here is a pic of how I have done the lines

AlIMG_20170321_204941_edit

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_20170321_204941_edit
albertstrains posted:

I wasn't happy with the look of the base, so I went back to the drawing board to get it "right". I decided on one piece of 1/8" x 9" x 9" to layout the grid for the 3/4" cube pilings.

 Here are the recent pics.

AlIMG_20170323_171242IMG_20170323_172506IMG_20170323_172521_editIMG_20170319_170515_edit

Nice work Al.   But now the secret is out as to who is really supervising your project!!

Nick

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×