I have recently acquired via trade for a Power/Dummy set of GP-9s for a 3RS conversion.

  Unfortunately I haven’t the financial resources at this time to procure a set of Geeps from Scott Man at 3 Rail. So I thought this would be the next best thing.

I will be modelling the locos to CPR specs circa 1955, as built.

   The stock UP diesels have many features like flashing beacon and extra headlights, which will not be used.

   Body work requires that

1) the top headlights casting be removed and replaced with the bottom set . This involves delicately removing with a razor saw the casting and relocated to the top location as per prototype.

  2) Horn relocation to the top of short hood.

 3) Filling holes from bottom headline locations

   4) Fixed Pilots - I haven’t figured out exactly how I will install the fixed pilots as of yet, but will update as I go along for those interested.

    Here are some pics thus far



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Last edited by albertstrains
Original Post

I like the opening door.   Also note that these models can be done without the Dynamic Brake blister.  This also has a winter fan cover shown to the rear, upper right this picture.  Nice modelAtlas model several years ago.   Handrail vertical support bars, another discussion.  Flat bar/round bar.  

Last edited by Mike CT

As a point of continuing education, there are no dashes in EMD diesel model numbers. It's a GP9, not a GP-9.

The only place where EMD used dashes in model numbers was in their "Dash 2" series, as in SD40-2, GP40-2, etc.

  Thank you Rich for the heads up on the error. Always good to get “it right”.

   Thanks Firewood !
  Mario- thanks for the info on your build and      Norms link

  MikeCT - I did have a set of GN Legacy Geeps at one time but they did not have the dynamic brakes. I removed the springs on the opening cab doors just for some variety lol. CPR units had dynamics on pretty much all their 1st generation diesels

   I forgot to mention that did use Squadron grey putty/krazy glue to fill holes and 320 grit to lite sand and 500 grit to finish before paint.

  Also for my CPR brethren, I am using Tamiya  rattle cans for finish.

   CP Diesel Grey is grey primer and Maroon is TS-11. The shells have been painted grey and the masking for maroon is next






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Looking forward to seeing your progress! I have considered painting up some Red Caboose kits I have in that same paint scheme have the decals but have been shying away with horror of trying to mask the grey & Maroon over all those doors hinges and door latches without paint leaking, then trying to get the decals to go on straight over them. What kind of masking tape do you use. I often mask for the next color then in your case would spray another grey coat along the mask lines before doing the next color to help seal the edges of the tape. 

I try to use that great Tamiya paint for most projects if I can get colors close to what I need. Can normally spray on a light coat then after 20 minutes it is dry enough to put on more coats and leave it for an hour before applying the decals or masking for the next color. The Tamiya paint goes on silk smooth and does not run with light coats. Sure beats pulling out the airbrush then having to clean it after each coat. I just finished with Tamiya paints a E8B in Southern Pacific, was able to sand off old Amtrak colors clean and paint and mask and next color then use a silver paint pen to do the stripes on the rivet strips all in one day with the great Tamiya paint!  Did not have the exact color but spraying; an orange then yellow paints got the colors to match close enough to the engine and baggage cars both with different shades of red and orange. 

Looking forward to your progress great project!


   I can understand your hesitation! Note that I removed much of the detail parts and handrail/grab irons, before cutting and filling.

    This makes it much easier to mask for the grey band. I have to be patient when removing these details, as they are delicate and break easily. Don’t ask me how I know lol

  Masking will be done by cutting an exact scale width of masking tape, according to Donald C Lewis’s book “Rail Canada Volume 3”

  This is an excellent reference book for Canadian Modellers.
  I have included a pic of the book




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D3192E68-F897-4D35-BDED-F7B8B86C19C15E4F8EA8-6B32-46A4-B42B-F381227447B893549AB0-D1E0-44A3-BD61-274B853DF2F7C495CC5F-A9F4-402C-93BC-828C74F988D0 Hello Chuck

    Thank you. I feel the pain with repainting a certain model due to its scarcity, having been restoring old PW Lionel and AF over the years, I have seen $1k plus items that were repainted by hand into some home road.

   Unfortunately, when modelling Canadian roads, items are scarce that accurately resemble the prototype as they are of limited run usually. Atlas had the ideal GP9 done with the barrel headlight etc but good luck finding a pair.

   Anyways, back to the project at hand.

I masked off the grey and sprayed approx 4 coats of maroon. Paint bleed was minimal and will be touched up with brush before I apply decals.

  I also wish to give a big thank you to Mario for setting me up with 2 sets of Sureway coupler pockets and shims. Looking forward to getting them installed on the fixed pilots!

  Here are some pics of the progress

Have a Safe weekend!



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Hello Dave

  Yes you are correct. I goofed up. I mixed up the names with a local metal supplier lol

  Shapeways is what I should have said.



A18F31E0-4B1F-417E-AD45-C9E11F516BD3C95398AA-9C69-467B-AD0C-D7B6CD010F638EA0309C-4162-4F3F-A2D9-EDF0F89320D513702067-E1F5-47A9-A703-66A16B7ABD98 I have finally had some time this weekend to work on the Project.

  I have removed the metal from the trucks that supported the old lobster claw couplers, in order to allow clearance when the Kadee #805‘a are installed. I used a hack saw and the assistance of my bench vise to perform the deed and finished things up with a 10” file to complete the task.

 I re-masked over the Tuscan to touch up some bleeding that occurred along the edge of the grey band before moving onto applying decals.
   When applying decals, I use distilled water to avoid hard water stains from our local city water supply and Microsol decal softener to snuggle the film around the various surface details
 I have the fireman’s side yet to do
  Here are a few pics to show the progress


 Have a Safe week!



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36EE82B3-C41B-4A52-9EE6-0C23CC44E416A80A45C4-8F59-42B4-9686-B1A5C384087DCD617D19-72F9-4FFB-81A9-F0AC5E727F311F6EEF84-DFF2-4818-9193-ED1C9A1E18FD3C85FB0A-0DCE-4DDD-B1F9-7CF8A70D7FC7D0F172BD-210F-4403-823C-36C210B87941  Thank you Dave! It’s been a fun project so far and always rewarding to have your trains detailed to your personal favourite road name.

   I have completed the decaling  of the Body but just touching up with more Micro Sol where the decal may have not totally set on the surfaces, one last time before I apply the gloss coat.
  With regards to the pilots, I will need to install the Shims and coupler pocket  to the fixed pilot and apply the diagonal yellow decals on both pilots. Looking forward to installing the parts fromShapeways(Mario) once they arrive  in the mail.

  Here are a few pics of the decals applied to the many uneven surfaces.  Micro Sol seems to work well.




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Nice work . The only 'sad' part is that UP GP with all the extra lights is scarce and in demand. 

I was thinking the same thing, Chuck.  I certainly would have started with a different Geep.  Those scarce (and they just got a little bit scarcer!) early model Legacy UP Geeps with the multiple lights are very cool with their Mars light and red warning light in addition to the other headlights, markers, and the strobe.


Otherwise, the CP looks like it will be a nice looking engine. Nice job with a fairly complicated paint scheme.

Last edited by breezinup

DD713609-6BAD-4D5A-92B8-45E82F38B5C9E8187D3A-9871-414C-87AB-B217E43256DFF1CC6A64-C709-4FD2-8DF6-18A671EA62D9FD263658-D828-4705-85A3-E0B4964916CA4FDD2C74-7B7F-4A75-B0A5-12D7566E8982E9492EB5-4273-4AE5-AF10-F6E75E43C0DBHere are a few updates on the project. I am at the point to start reassembly, with modifications to the lighting boards before installing them back in place.

  Fixed pilots done for the most part but more details to be added above and below the coupler pocket



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