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I'm curious to know what the thoughts are concerning layouts with curved edges verses straight edges.  I know there are a few previous posts describing curved edge layouts...and some of the photos are absolutely amazing but it seems like a lot of work to accomplish and I'm wondering what issues they might create both short term and long term.

Anthony

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Curves are a lot more work if you want to actually build a curved tabletop. Many of these are true works of art. But, if all you care about is nice curves, it is quick and easy to cantilever them out over the edge of a rectangular table. I frequently do this using pieces of scrap lumber. Not pretty, but it will all be hidden by scenery and drapery. I remember old Lionel literature instructing us to use cheap scrap lumber so we can send more of our money to them.

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So far I've seen common threads in the answers..."it's a lot of extra work", "it's aesthetically pleasing and elegant".  (It's a good thing I have a small army of Bosch routers.)  As far as shrinking space for scenery, I hadn't planned on putting much scenery or buildings on the edges anyway (except for the so called back area), as they would obscure the running consists.  For the back area, it would be a straight edge with trees and a small burm anyway.

@Avanti (Pete) - There is a fundamental in your layout that caught my eye which has been another consideration of mine (except on a larger scale), so don't be surprised if I reference you in a future post.

Anthony

It depends on your track plan and what and how many room(s) you have to work with. Rectilinear layouts are easier to build, but they can overwhelm the space within a room and they can be "square" looking, no pun.

My current layout features an around the basement cantilevered wall system with island peninsula, and I chose to curve the vast majority of the edges except for the obvious need for tangent sections. It is a lot more work but I wouldn't do it any other way. I can maneuver within my basement and everything flows nicely. FWIW: I used both spliced plywood (splicing on radial saw) and bendable plastic lumber available at most home depot type stores, all secured with drywall screws to extensions screwed into the layout frame. Some under construction photos below...I am in the process of covering the fascia with foam wall sections (3rd picture) that resemble a stone viaduct. I've since laid track and sceniced much of these areas and need to snap some more photos of the progress.

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Dave's fascia looks like steel plate fastened with rivets - interesting and appealing look - artistic and very suitable for industrial dioramas. If it is steel that would take some serious counterforce to hold that bend. I am curious to what material it is.

FWIW: I had the opportunity to visit both Tom Tee and GunrunnerJohn from the forum last year, and see both of their under construction layouts, each one a unique work. Tom showed me a scrap piece of bendable plywood, which easily bended in my hands. I recall it was about 5/16" to 3/8" thick. I believe it is a special order item, my local stores don't carry it. Had I known about this product before I built my curved sections it would've saved a great deal of work and time. As noted before, other wood and plastic materials can be bent, but I have to say the bendable plywood was amazing to hold and bend in my hands; very little force needed to be applied yet it seemed strong.

Last edited by Paul Kallus

Curves can make a narrow area look much larger.  They also give the viewer a sense of being an explorer as they walk through the layout.

Layout

I like the illusion of riveted steel.  I remember seeing them in your shop.  The paint job is especially convincing.

As my feeble memory recalls, it's masonite with styrofoam half-spheres.  Have you ever done an article about creating the effect?

  I'm going to agree with wgb pete.  Curves are no more difficult than straight...it's all the same process.  Clamp the section to the benchwork, countersink a few holes, then screw.  Unclamp, move down the line, and repeat.

  I left the 2X4 benchwork "open" at corners, and cut the plywood & 1" foam top to the desired radius.  The 1/8 hardboard I used finds its own center around the curve.   Easy.  

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Tom

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