Custom PSC Western Pacific Harriman baggage project

Gonna be awesome.

That and the shortie are the PSC Harrimans I failed to get.

That will be neat car.  I am looking forward to your progress!

What they said ^. Looking forward to it.

Thanks guys, I love going all out when it's a single car. Some progress...

Pretty cool Santiago, seriously watch out for those soldier joints. 

I might pull out my consist of expo cars and photo them all. The mods I did on my 10/1/2, and 8/5 are extensive. Black sashes are sweet, Dr Allen is a big help. I will see if I have the G.O.D’s for these cars from Sam Tech and email them. They are confidential 

Erik C Lindgren posted:

Pretty cool Santiago, seriously watch out for those soldier joints. 

you're not kidding! Couple of parts already fell off.... gonna go through all of them w some heat!

Erik C Lindgren posted:

I might pull out my consist of expo cars and photo them all. The mods I did on my 10/1/2, and 8/5 are extensive. Black sashes are sweet, Dr Allen is a big help. I will see if I have the G.O.D’s for these cars from Sam Tech and email them. They are confidential 

If you could I'd appreciate that, of course I'd keep them confidential. Your expo consists belong in a museum, Erik. And those E5's are the ultimate Expo power for sure!

While reinforcing solder joints in the underframe of my Harriman baggage I compared it to DP's and a couple of prototype photos, and I realized I have to change everything down there! Challenge accepted .

Oh well...

Tremendous work!!!!

Good luck! 

jpv in France

Roof  stuff gone...

True dedication.  Yow!

And nice video.  Did I see a Lobaugh Pullman truck under one of those?

Work on the undercarriage continues....excuse the rough quality of the solder, I will sand it down before I prime and paint. 

From th expo bulletin...

Levers 

Love it when a talented modeler takes on a project like this. Few, would go to this length, but having it right is important to some of us. Nice job sir!

BH

Thank you, B!

Testing rubber cast diaphragms...

Was able to solder chains to the correct spot on the trucks...

Awesome

Some notes:

Ive found the most authentic look for the diaphragm on this particular PSC installation is a rubber cloth cut and inserted since the originals were not a cast diaphragm. Bill McClung was very successful in creating imho the best diaphragm assembly yet with these all of these heavy weight models  

Example: 

Sorry about the low resolution I’m not at home on my computer for the original. 

On the chains may I suggest double insulated wheels. 

Thankfully the wheels are insulated on both sides

Those look great. I've seen a few different styles of diaphragms on Harriman prototypes though. The ones I'm using are modified to fit this car and come from a different PSC car. 

Can you guys tell me what this part is called? Is it a card holder? I mean that rectangle divided into three. Want to add it but don't think PSC makes it...

I love soldering jail bars!

Those look great.

SANTIAGOP23 posted:

Can you guys tell me what this part is called? Is it a card holder? I mean that rectangle divided into three. Want to add it but don't think PSC makes it...

It is a mail car destination card holder used when mail / express cars were sealed and carried to a specific location. Not used when cars were worked en route as the information would have not been accurate.

I worked for the PRR / Penn Central on mail and express cars and we used them. For cars that were worked en route they were not used. Just for solid mail to a specific point. Baggage cars, express reefers, and express box cars had them.

As I recall from the 1960's most cars just had the outer assembly - not the inner pieces but my memory could have faded.

Ron H posted:

Those look great.

Thanks!..... 0.015 wire ftw!

rheil posted:

SANTIAGOP23 posted:

Can you guys tell me what this part is called? Is it a card holder? I mean that rectangle divided into three. Want to add it but don't think PSC makes it...

It is a mail car destination card holder used when mail / express cars were sealed and carried to a specific location. Not used when cars were worked en route as the information would have not been accurate.

I worked for the PRR / Penn Central on mail and express cars and we used them. For cars that were worked en route they were not used. Just for solid mail to a specific point. Baggage cars, express reefers, and express box cars had them.

As I recall from the 1960's most cars just had the outer assembly - not the inner pieces but my memory could have faded.

thank you, rheil. I'll see if I can come up with a couple somehow...

Great great work! I like it! 

jpv in France

http://www.wrm.org/visit/car-r...-western-pacific-128

There are some interesting details at one end of this car that I'd like to model, just don't know what they are. My guess is they are brake related, maybe some valves? 

Filling holes and sanding is as much fun as it looks

Holes for road specific details, will kitbash some details and for the grabs some P&D grabs with bolt details 

Just so you know that I'm still watching . . . 

Thanks, Max. Some progress...

My trucks are not equialized, they were falling apart so I soldered the parts together. It's ok, a car this light really doesn't need equalization. Since I don't need springs, I upgraded the look of the springs by making them with thicker wire and making new loops. The springs will be painted pullman green along with the trucks.

End details are only suggested and not 100 percent correct 

AH, the old spring trick, love it!

Ron

I realized I was getting cold solder joints on the chain attachment, so I decided to drill and epoxy a small lift ring to which I could attach the chain. Much happier w the result. 

The more I look at this thread, the more I think that this car will be fantastic and to show the advance step by step is interesting. 

jpv in France

So far so good... testing assembly and whatnot, many details missing here tho

Simulated wood floor should help the interior a bit...

Awesome 

Using real glass for this project, a first for me

Started priming today

beautiful work......a true craftsman....

Thanks, guys. Body primed, may go with a few more sprays. Some roof holes filling is showing so I'll have to sand a bit more. That's the beauty of priming.

what do you sand with Santiago?.....if you don't mind me askin..................Pat

Of course not! Nothing fancy, several sandpapers and water sand papers in different coarses.  For curved surfaces a sponge sander is a must. I used them a lot on the roof. 

hope you don't mind me being a pest, always want to learn.....do you mechanically scratch the brass with sand paper or scotchbrite before priming? or do you use an etching primer that chemically bites the brass? I see beautiful detail even with the primer coat on. I'm always worried about flattening out details like rivet heads and what not.....yours are perfect ......im impressed

Hey thanks...

I don't scratch the bare brass. I simply clean it as much as I can with glass cleaner and soapy water, then I prime and let the primer cure for about two days. This is an acrylic primer by Vallejo, you really need to let it sit and cure for about two days for it to harden. Hope this helps...

I will paint with enamels though

Undercarriage painted, the front of the boxes will be pullman green. 

 I like to follow your work and admire your attention to detail. Sometimes when I'm building, I think of cutting corners as it's easier and saying good enough. I've even said that's all the major players do. Other times it's because it's the limit of my talent.

 So once again I find myself needing to add,...... your work is very inspiring! and Thanks for sharing.

Sorry for interrupting!

Thanks for the kind words, Joe.

I've found over the years that I am happier with no more than three projects at a time. That way I can really delve into them and get them as right as I can.

You are a rare commodity in our hobby Santiago and your work is true master modeler quality.  You've made a nice car exceptional and done what few modelers would do with a new brass model. 

BH

I'm humbled by your words, B. Thank you.

Ok don't know if this will work, but I made the card holders using archer resin transfers on a copper plate. Depending on how the details show after painting I will add them. 

I know, I ramble, but what a beautiful work! 

jpv in France

Before I use enamels, I coated tthe car with a dark olive green acrylic paint. Enamels are very transparent, and this will help me get a richer green in less coats.

Added the card holders, that wasn't easy. Hopefully the enamel pullman green will blend everything.

Trucks painted, coated, lubed and ready to install...

Nice job. 

This is done... happy w the belt on the dc turbo transformer 

Roof painted, will satin coat at the end. A bit glossy now.

I'm unhappy with the way the paint looks on the roof, I think there was some overspray from the primer... most likely I'll send the car to another paint stripping bath..... ugh

painting really is the most difficult thing there is

I followed a forumite suggestion and gave sanding a try, it looks like it will work! I was hesitant because the paint and primer seemed to delicate to sand, but it's holding up pretty well.

No project is without its issues, that's for sure.  Here you can see the difference in texture:

I was  critical of the former paint job, better put my money where my mouth is!

Yeah, I don't think you'll be happy with it till you strip the roof and start over. I have really enjoyed the project.

ron H

Are you using a Airbrush? or Canned spray?

Ron, maybe so. But when I run my finger on the sanded surface I feels smooth as silk, really it may work. 

Bruk, airbrush for sure. 

Painting is a complexity, a mystery even. It may have been the humidity, the temperature, the primer, etc. 

A suggestion

Try painting the roof with Krylon Matte Sealer Chalky Finish (you can get it at Amazon in the US):  http://www.krylon.com/products...-paint-clear-sealer/

When sprayed over black, it gives the texture and variation characteristic of a tarred roof.  That may not be the look you are going for, but if it is, give this a try.  

Thanks, John.  The challenge is to match my PSC BE express car factory paint job, so far I'm failing... 

Hey Santiago those factory baked “inks” they’ve been using in Korea are strange and stink so bad. You are doing fabulous using a heavy bodied acrylic... I think I have a jar of the ink Sam Tech used on the Flyer project in the spare parts box. I would probably get arrested for sending dangerous liquids to you if I sent it. 

Yeah those coats really toughen up the surface! Thanks 

K here we go again....

My girl giving me that disappointment look...

Removed the inner door grabs. I considered adding the extra batting strips, but the geometry of the car would make it look off.

Ready for primer again...

Santiago,

Considering your focus on excellence, wouldn't it make some sense to ship the body to a recommended professional painter? I'm sure Eric and some others could make a recommendation. It would also permit you to work on something else.

 I completely understand the desire to shoot it yourself. I have to wait until winter here in Texas for a dry low humid day. I've got a bunch of cars I'm waiting to shoot this winter. It can sure be frustrating. Best of luck.

Ron H 

Ron, thanks but I'm confident I can do this. Really the problem was the primer, I won't be using vallejo anymore. I also love the challenge. Hell, what was that MFA good for if I can't even paint a scale model The undercarriage came out perfect. Also, this project has been approved for an article, so I better put my game face on. I do have the utmost respect for pro painters. The finest of crafts! 

This learning curve is more than necessary for me if I'm to paint that protocraft XM-32 car.

SANTIAGOP23 posted:

My girl giving me that disappointment look...

 

After a hard day of modeling my pop pop kitty Joseph, at almost 20,  is too tired to jump up on my lap.

How precious, Rule.

Which magazine?  The 2-rail mag doesn't like to publish stuff that has been presented on line first.

You do nice work.  I am partial to Harrlman cars - these PSC cars seem to have better roof contours than do other options in O scale.

bob2 posted:

---

You do nice work.  I am partial to Harriman cars - these PSC cars seem to have better roof contours than do other options in O scale.

It will be interesting to see how the new 3rd Rail Harriman roof contours compare to the PSC cars.

SANTIAGOP23 posted:

Ron, thanks but I'm confident I can do this. Really the problem was the primer, I won't be using vallejo anymore. I also love the challenge. Hell, what was that MFA good for if I can't even paint a scale model The undercarriage came out perfect. Also, this project has been approved for an article, so I better put my game face on. I do have the utmost respect for pro painters. The finest of crafts! 

This learning curve is more than necessary for me if I'm to paint that protocraft XM-32 car.

 

Understood ! It'll be fantastic.

Ron H

New primer coat. I used Revell basic primer, does not leave a perfect surface, but it is incredibly tough and with a good sanding you can really achieve a smooth flat surface. This primer is so tough, I can't scratch it with my fingernails, I love that because I know it will stay no matter what. Vallejo on the other hand is ridiculously delicate, can't sand and will scratch with anything. Once sanded this revell primer feels like ivory, and I know it takes paint well since I used it for my Q F3's passenger pilot. 

Much happier now... glad I started over...

 and 

jpv in France

Thanks, jpv.

I'm really happy with the chains and springs upgrades.

Wow. That top painted black looks great to me. So do the trucks.

Nice job.

I'll be using these dry transfers from clover house... wonderful stuff. 

Thanks for sharing Santiago. and good to see others using rarely mentioned Clover House lettering.  When available, I generally use dry transfers.  With dry transfers there is no messing with decal sets solution,  and  they can be applied to both gloss and mat finishes.  Santiago probably knows this trick, but others new to dry transfers might benefit from this tip.  I use light tack removable  clear Scotch tape to hold the lettering strip in position during the transfer process.  The tape is applied extending over one edge of the dry transfer so that it can function as a hinge.  In that way you can lift the transfer sheet and see if the letters completely transferred.   Clover House's catalog is worth checking out.  For PRR locomotives they have steam  sets covering pre and postwar lettering standards.  

Nice!  We all knew you could do it...just a matter of time and hitting that curve just right.  Looks excellent!

BH

Thank you, Ed.

I look forward to featuring them in the article, it's a wonderful product coming from wonderful people. More exposure could mean a larger catalog from them. They sell a practice pack, for those that want to try them.

Thanks, Butch!

big thanks to MWB for pointing me in their direction

Decided to go w Protocraft couplers, I had to modify them to get more swing out of them. The cut bars I'll install at the end.

A little inspiration 

First light coat with a more covering paint, will shoot final coat later this week when this dries. Final coat will be much darker...

Even with this first coat, the result is superb! 

jpv in France

Hello, Pullman green

W better lighting, crazy how cameras have a hard time capturing Pullman green, it does look better in person...

Dry transfers are a superior product!

That really does look good.  Keep it up and I shall have to paint my Harrimans.

SANTIAGOP23 posted:

Dry transfers are a superior product!

That looks very good. 

Are they very popular?

Awesome awesome awesome awesome Santiago ��❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

Thanks, guys! Will clear coat tonight, install Windows and jail bars and assemble. Very close to finishing!

MaxSouthOz posted:

SANTIAGOP23 posted:

Dry transfers are a superior product!

That looks very good. 

Are they very popular?

Max, I think they are, but ther is a learning curve in using them. Once you start applying them there is moving them around like decals. And the catalog is not as wide ether. But the results are spectacular! I hope they continue to expand their offerings. 

Done!

Beautiful !

Looking mighty appropriate behind my Hudson... studio shots tomorrow!

C'est vraiment du très grand travail! 

It's in french but that represents better what I think!

jpv in France

Full photo-shoot here:

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...harriman-baggage-car