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On another thread there was a discussion about how to make the venerable old Lionel 022 (and 042) switches more useful for yards.

I thought a separate thread showing how I do this might be useful for anyone interested.

 

The standard geometry of an 022 switch is 10” long in the straight direction, and 45 degrees of curvature in the curved direction (ie. 8 curves make a circle). This is to match the standard O31 gauge track sections.

If these switches are used in a yard ladder they produce a 45 degree ladder track angle, and a yard track spacing of 7.07” C-C (28.3 scale feet). This is not very realistic, and takes up a lot of real estate.

If we cut 1/3 off the curved track length (15 degrees) we change the ladder track angle to 30 degrees, and the result is a track spacing of 5” C-C (20 scale feet). Much more realistic, plus we can get more sidings in our yard space.

If we go one step further and cut 2” off the straight leg, we shorten the switch to 8” and further reduce the yard track spacing to 4” C-C (16 scale feet). Now we are getting very close to prototypical yard track spacing.

 

Another advantage to reducing the curve-out is that when backing cars through these switches the angular change between cars is greatly reduced and derailments are less likely to occur. (You will still have a tenuous S curve while backing into the 2nd siding along the ladder.)

If we use two cut down switches for a loop crossover, we can reduce the parallel track spacing from 8-1/2” down to 4”; and greatly reduce the severity of the “S” curve.

 

We will need a few basic tools, including a power jig saw. Another handy (but not strictly necessary) tool is a Dremel with a flex shaft extension.

First we remove the bottom plate and the switch machine.

Then we mark the switch for cutting. The cut across the curved section is made just along the outer edge of the 3rd moulded “tie” from the end of the curve. This effectively removes 1/3 of the curve, or 15 degrees. The second intersecting cut is made parallel to and right alongside the straight track rail. (If you are also cutting down the straight track at this time, just make the second intersecting cut along the outer edge of the adjacent “tie” in the straight section.) If you check the underside of the base plate you should see that the intended cuts will not hit anything crucial on the underside.

 

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Make the two cuts carefully using a fine tooth metal blade in your jig saw. You can also use a Dremel with a cut off wheel of course. Do not rush it, and be careful not to snag a rail. You can use a standard hacksaw, but again use a fine tooth blade.

After the cuts are done, file off any burrs and other debris with a fine file.

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You will see that the rail heads at the cut off ends are filled with cast bakelite. This needs to be drilled out to make recesses for the track pins.

Clamp the switch securely using a wood block across the tops of the short rail segments. If this is not done the bakelite may cause the bit to deflect upwards and deform the short remaining rail segments. Clamping also helps to maintain drilling direction and alignment to the rails.

I made a custom block from a piece of plywood, with slots to fit the rails, but this is not mandatory. If you are going to do quite a few switches, however, you will find such a block very helpful.

You can use a cordless drill to drill out the bakelite, but a Dremel with a flex shaft works best and will give you much better control. Use a 7/64” drill bit; the same size as a standard O gauge track pin.

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The holes only need to be drilled about ½” into the Bakelite. I use a piece of tape on the bit to indicate when the hole is deep enough. As you start, check vertical and horizontal position and alignment carefully, and proceed slowly. Bakelite is much harder to drill than plastic. Once started the bit should tend to follow the bakelite.

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As you drill you should see mostly black powder from the bakelite. If you see a bunch of shiny metal filings, this means you are drilling into the side of the rail. Stop and re-align the drill. Once drilling is complete, recheck the rail ends for burrs, and install the track pins. Remember to install an insulated pin in the insulated rail segment.

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Now repeat this procedure for the straight end if you are shortening it also. 

During re-assembly I usually leave the bottom plate off of any modified switches, but you can make matching cuts in the bottom plate and re-install it if desired. The bottom plate serves as a protective cover when used on a temporary layout, but for a permanent layout it is not strictly necessary.

 

Note that if you are making a yard with several switches cut down in both the curved and straight sections (to get the minimum 4” spacing), you will have to trim a small triangular piece off the corner of the switch base to clear the track tie on the adjacent siding. This is also easily done with the jig saw, and will not affect switch operation.

If using 042 manual switches, I usually drill a small hole in the side of switch machine cover and feed the end of the bulb power wire through this during re-assembly. I then use this wire to provide lantern light power, so that the switch lights up along with other remote controlled switches on the layout, instead of relying on track power.

Here is a switch with both the curved and straight rails cut:

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 This is a yard made of 042 switches cut down to give 5" C-C track spacing:

 

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Once you have done one or two you will be an expert. It takes about 15-20 minutes per switch once you are set up.

Have fun!

Rod

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Original Post

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Thanks Rod, this is an excellent how-to documentary. I've previously modified one O22 switch as shown in this photo, but your method of cutting back the base is much more expedient. One detail to consider with the non-derailing switches, the isolated rails might need to be extended for reliable operation?

 

cut-down O22 switch

 

I'm going to investigate whether Rod's procedure can work equally well on O27 switches.

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Originally Posted by David Johnston:

Ace, as i recall the problem with modifying an 1122 is that the switch machine can not be moved to the other side, like on 022.  

Yes, good point, it would not be practical to make ladder tracks, but it would still be desirable to make parallel track arrangements with closer spacing like this: 

 

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1122 switches and O42/O27 curves

 

The O42-curve switches for O27 track are somewhat scarce and I have a surplus of the commonplace O27 switches I might want to use somehow.

 

Looking at 1122 switches with a bottom cover removed, it looks feasible to cut these down the same way Rod has done with O22 and O42 switches. One of the metal straps for the non-derailing circuitry would have to be removed and replaced with wire.

 

1122-switches-mod-

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Last edited by Ace

This is a detailed and well intentioned post.  But, respectfully, wouldn't it make more sense to find the newer style O31 switches (the owith about which I posted issues - smaller footprint and stub track variant)?  The reason I ask this is not to be a wise guy, but traditional O gauge switches are pretty expensive and I would want to avoid hacking them up if there is an alternative.  The plastic o31 switches can also probably be found used pretty cheaply.  

Originally Posted by Ace:

Thanks Rod, this is an excellent how-to documentary. I've previously modified one O22 switch as shown in this photo, but your method of cutting back the base is much more expedient. One detail to consider with the non-derailing switches, the isolated rails might need to be extended for reliable operation?

 

Ace;

I use several cut down 022,s on my layout and the non-derailing features till works just fine.

If you had one that was a problem it would be easy enough to extend the isolated rail into the adjoining curve or straight track, but I have not encountered any issues.

 

Thanks for the comments.

Rod

Originally Posted by RL NYC:

This is a detailed and well intentioned post.  But, respectfully, wouldn't it make more sense to find the newer style O31 switches (the owith about which I posted issues - smaller footprint and stub track variant)?  The reason I ask this is not to be a wise guy, but traditional O gauge switches are pretty expensive and I would want to avoid hacking them up if there is an alternative.  The plastic o31 switches can also probably be found used pretty cheaply.  

You make an excellent point.

Many of us have lots of the older 022 switches however, and it is nice to put them to use, and modify them where needs be.

As has been stated here and elsewhere, it's tough to beat the reliability and ruggedness of these old workhorses.

What it comes down to I suppose is what you have on hand, and/or what you can aquire for a reasonable price. When I started building my current layout I had a large number of 022 and 042 switches on hand. Most were picked up at the LHS or train shows for prices like $20 and $10 each respectively, or less.

 

Rod

I've cut down several O22 switches with Rod's method, and later cut down several Lionel and Marx O27 switches. I had some "junk" Marx remote switches which worked great for a yard ladder. I replace the switch-points pivot-rivet with a machine screw and nut adjusted for moderate drag, so the switchpoints can be moved with a finger but have enough friction to stay put when a train passes over. That eliminates the need for separate switch-control linkage and allows the switches to be positioned closer.

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After some adjustments the operation is very reliable. I routinely back trains up to 8 feet long through this yard ladder. The Marx switches have the advantage of electrical continuity on all rails all the way through the switch -- no stalling !

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