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Cut from each corner towards the middle of each side (total of 8 cut per window). This will keep the corners crisp. If you draw the knife from one corner all the way to the opposite corner, it is likely that the body of the blade will cut into and beyond the corner on the surface before the tip reaches the corner on the backside. Excel hobby blades. If you hear a "tick" get a new blade as the tip just broke off. Pay attention to the grain in the wood and don't try to cut through in one draw. Like any cutting action, let the tool do the work without too much force.

Last edited by Todds Architectural Models

Using a metal ruler, locate the corners and draw the window area onto the rear side of the clapboard sheet, lightly with a pencil. Start at each corner and cut a short distance diagonally (say 1/4 inch at a 45-degree angle) toward the window area with a new single-edge razor blade. This will prevent splitting along the clapboards when the sides are cut. Use the tip of the blade to make two short (1/4 inch at 90 degrees) cuts along the edges at each corner. Lay the metal ruler along the window edges and cut carefully. File inside edges until windows fit.

MELGAR

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MELGAR_2020_1115_CHROMIUM_PROCESS_10X5

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Last edited by MELGAR
@Junior posted:

Hey Joe!

I've seen this tool advertised on several sites.

Would it be possible for you to do a short, little "demo" video on some scrap?

Sorry Junior - I'm not set up for taking video. I could not find any on YouTube other than a MicroMark promotional video. I tend to use the tool on wood a lot more than plastic, especially cutting out window holes. Relatively quick passes are needed or the wood will start smoking if you go too slow. I will make the cut all the way through wood.

Styrene plastic in particular has a tendency to melt so quick passes are needed. I tend to stay away from using the tool on plastic. If I need to cut a hole for a window I will drill a 3/8 inch hole and use a nibbler (MicroMark) to finish the window hole.

@MELGAR posted:

Using a metal ruler, locate the corners and draw the window area onto the rear side of the clapboard sheet, lightly with a pencil. Start at each corner and cut a short distance diagonally (say 1/4 inch at a 45-degree angle) toward the window area with a new single-edge razor blade. This will prevent splitting along the clapboards when the sides are cut. Use the tip of the blade to make two short (1/4 inch at 90 degrees) cuts along the edges at each corner. Lay the metal ruler along the window edges and cut carefully. File inside edges until windows fit.

MELGAR

MELGAR_FACTORY4_WALLS_INSIDEMELGAR_FACTORY4_WALLS_OUTSIDEMELGAR_FACTORY4_REAR_VIEW

MELGAR_2020_1115_CHROMIUM_PROCESS_10X5

Wow, that building looks really nice. I can't tell from the unpainted picture, is the clapboard affect in the original woor piece or is it like a laminate added over the balsa wood. If a laminate, where do go to purchase that type of textured materials.

Thanks,

Milled clapboard is 1/16" thick.  Unless it's something delicate, I just use a regular utility knife with a good sharp blade (draws blood in 1st pass) generally free hand for doors and windows openings, but steel ruler for large cuts on 1st pass. Delicate stuff - #23 scalpel - fresh blade.  Several passes regardless of cutting tool.

Now anybody got a source for milled clapboard that doesn't require involvement of a loan officer?

@TomSuperO posted:

Wow, that building looks really nice. I can't tell from the unpainted picture, is the clapboard affect in the original wood piece or is it like a laminate added over the balsa wood. If a laminate, where do go to purchase that type of textured materials.

It is milled basswood clapboard available from Northeastern Scale Lumber in Methuen, Massachusetts. They sell sheets in various lengths and widths. I use 1/16-inch thickness.

MELGAR

@Junior posted:

Hey Joe...

I appreciate all the effort you put in for my request.

Does the blade vibrate; as in ultrasonic? I would have never anticipated heat being produced from it !

I have to check out Micromark's video.

Thanks!

Junior:

The blade vibrates at 40,000 vibrations per second so it will heat up wood and melt plastic. there is more info on the MicroMark web site

https://www.micromark.com/Wondercutter

@dkdkrd posted:

Anyone ever tried this Micro-Mark gizmo?...Corner Cutter/Punch Link

It's made in a couple sizes.

Seems like it would make nice and easy corner cuts, joined with finishing cuts with your #11 blade.  Also may be easily re-sharpened by a professional?

KD

KD - never tried that tool. I use the nibbler - https://www.micromark.com/Nibbling-Cutter but only for plastic. I'm not sure how it would work on wood since I use the wonder cutter - would need to try it and get to you.

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