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Fred, one does not have to disconnect the TIU.  Turn off all power to all 4 inputs and power the TIU through the AUX port.  One does have to access the TIU to plug in the jumper jack, the computer cable, and the phone cord.  Given that your new remote most probably does not have the same version as your old, you're stuck with having to do the job, which is easy using the latest loader program which gives step-by-step instructions on the screen.

Fred,

 

It's a very bad idea to mix DCS software in the TIU and remote. However, you might find there following from The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition, page 137, to be helpful:

Upgrading the TIU

Sometimes, TIU placement makes it inconvenient to remove a TIU from the layout to upgrade the TIU's DCS software, particularly if the TIUs are placed under the layout, as are mine. To get around this inconvenience, you can connect extension cables to each TIU's serial, ProtoCast and ProtoDispatch ports to bring them out from under the table. I also have a long serial ribbon cable that goes from the PC in the train room work area, around the layout to where the TIUs are located.

 

When it's DCS upgrade time, I connect the serial cable from the train room to the serial port jumper cable connected to the TIU. I also jumper together the extension cables connected to the ProtoCast and ProtoDispatch ports. Then I can upgrade the TIUs in place, since a little known fact is that it's not necessary to unhook anything other than the serial, USB, ProtoCast and ProtoDispatch ports when upgrading a TIU's DCS software.

 

This and a whole lot more is all in MTH’s “The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

Correct.  Follow on-screen instructions precisely in roder given.  If you have any failures, recycle power to the TIU before powering it up.  Also, be sure proper cables are in place before powering up; TIU won't recognize the 1/8" jumper if not inplace at power up..

 

Regardless, USB 3.0 or even 2.0 has come a long ways from USB 1.1.

 

True

Last edited by RJR

OK, final update.  Picked up the 9 pin to USB cable and updated the TIU, and 2 handheld remotes to version 4.3.  Without a problem.  WOW.  As folks noted earlier, you have to follow the sequence as specified in the loader program.

 

Then I backed up the old remote to the PC and then downloaded the data to the new remote.  No issues. Before doing this, I started adding engines to the new remote and was having fun finding engines that I totally forgot I had.  See what age does to you?

 

Anyway, I wanted to thank everyone for their valuable help.  Much appreciated.   This is a great board.

Last edited by fsileo

Fred, glad you found the loader program easy to use.

 

What you can do is now save the contents of the new remote to your computer, and then restore that save to the old remote.  I recommend time & dating your saves, so if you ever have to reset a remote, you can reload back to a version before whatever happened to require a reset.

 

 

You said you added more locos to the new remote. You want the backup to include the latest.

 

I would note that after you set all the softkeys in the order you want them, backing up allows to to copy all the settings to the other remote.  Also, don't automatically delete the old backup file when you create a new one, just in case for some reason you have to go back further.

 

I'll mention for the benefit of readers that the backup feature does not affect or copy the version of DCS (for example, 4.3) that's loaded.

New to the forum.    Thumbwheel down .       Where do I find a new wheel ?          Would like to have a backup.         I bought a new remote and going by info on the forum I secured the board,  used electronic oil on wheel contacts  and  braced the wheel with rubber foam below the wheel board .   Old remote wheel plastic pins weakened making a mess of everything.   New reworked remote works great.     Still would like to have a backup next time.    Does anyone make anything worth while for under a $ 150 ?

 

 

The two plastic pins protrude from the top cover of the remote and hold the thumb wheel bracket in position. The pins fit in the two small holes at the bottom of the bracket.   When I opened the remote to find out why the thumb wheel was so loose I found one of the plastic pins was broken off and the other was cracked.  I manufactured two good pins and soldered two wires to the wheel board but found other issues with the wheel by then that rendered it useless .  So how do I get in touch with MTH to purchase a new wheel assembly.  I'm not an MTH tech.

 

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