DCS Remote Thumbweel Skiping

I searched for this but found little current info.  I have an early TIU and DCS Remote.  The Remote thumbwheel has always skipped when turned too fast, so that you thumb away and get 1 or 2 smph increase.  Now I use Quick Set almost exclusively.  I also know that this was a universal problem early in the systems life.

I am about to buy a second DCS Remote and TIU for a second layout downstairs.  My question is have the new / current DCS Remotes solved this highly aggravating problem, or should I expect a brand new one to still have this issue.

Gene

Original Post

I also have a first-generation model.  Not only does it often skip, but it's slippery!   Sometimes when I'm doing a lot of switching, I'll use a rubber thumb cover from an office supply store (the kind you would use to turn pages or count money.)  IMO the ergonomics of the thumbwheel are dreadful.  Hard use of the "push-to-enter" feature can eventually cause the thumbwheel to crack.  And servicing these remotes is a headache best left to experts. 

Several years ago begged Mike Wolf to make a new / redesigned remote, to no avail.  It's also a shame the DCS Commander has a limited feature set and doesn't operate the older Proto-2 locos, because I don't always need walk-around control, and like the tactile feel of that controller MUCH better! 

I think the company's strategy is to encourage users to control their trains from touch screen devices.  If you have PS3 locos, you could also control them with DCC; some of the 3rd party DCC hand-helds have better ergonomics than the DCS remote.

Creep, coast, and pull.  We're not talking about cold fusion here.

IMO, the thumbwheel is the biggest failure of the DCS remote.  They should have spend the extra ten cents and gone with an optical encoder design instead of the discrete contact based design that quickly deteriorates!

Ted S posted:
 It's also a shame the DCS Commander has a limited feature set and doesn't operate the older Proto-2 locos, because I don't always need walk-around control, and like the tactile feel of that controller MUCH better!

The DCS Commander works with ALL PS2 & PS3 locomotives. The engine will need to be factory reset in order to have the proper DCS ID to operate with a DCS Remote Commander.

EDIT: I meant to say the DCS Remote Commander

H1000

gunrunnerjohn posted:

IMO, the thumbwheel is the biggest failure of the DCS remote.  They should have spend the extra ten cents and gone with an optical encoder design instead of the discrete contact based design that quickly deteriorates!

I have 3 DCS remotes. Only one, had the thumbwheel in need of replacing. It was my first and well over 10 years old (15?). The other still two work perfectly.

I think heavy thumb pressing can accelerate their demise. Our grandkids have played with mine since they were old enough to run the trains. So I know that they have had some good use and still work well. I think the design of the wheel housing is a weak spot.

 My girl presses our remotes upstairs so hard, I could hear the plastic stressing. After wearing out a few remotes and telephones, I tried to coach her on not pressing so hard. I think some users get confused when a remote takes longer to do it's job? So they press harder to get a reaction.

" on Sour mash and cheap wine " ??

Why go back to DCC when I have DCS!

You really should try the wifi app.... works lots better - no error messages; no engine not found.... fabulous, really.... 

 

I've noticed on 2 of my remotes that if I move the thumbwheel slightly between clicks the smph increases or decreases. I find myself constantly grabbing a remote over smart device as I know where all the buttons are without looking at the thing...and it's easier to drink a highball or a beer with remote in one hand and drink in other! 

 

 

C. Jones

Engineer-Joe posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

IMO, the thumbwheel is the biggest failure of the DCS remote.  They should have spend the extra ten cents and gone with an optical encoder design instead of the discrete contact based design that quickly deteriorates!

I have 3 DCS remotes. Only one, had the thumbwheel in need of replacing. It was my first and well over 10 years old (15?). The other still two work perfectly.

I think heavy thumb pressing can accelerate their demise. Our grandkids have played with mine since they were old enough to run the trains. So I know that they have had some good use and still work well. I think the design of the wheel housing is a weak spot.

 My girl presses our remotes upstairs so hard, I could hear the plastic stressing. After wearing out a few remotes and telephones, I tried to coach her on not pressing so hard. I think some users get confused when a remote takes longer to do it's job? So they press harder to get a reaction.

I'm not talking about breaking the thumbwheel supports, I'm talking about the encoding contacts on the thumbwheel.  An optical encoder would allow smooth control, not the up and down random jumping of the speed that the DCS remote does.  I have four of them, and all but one have lousy thumbwheel control.  Contact cleaner fixes them temporarily, but they quickly develop bad habits again.

I concur with GRJ.....optical is they way to go!! I use Lionel's TMCC with remote to control my Smoke Fluid Loader (the DCS Remote was just NOT cutting it with this accessory) and it works "slicker than snot" . GRJ even confirmed that the Lionel remote's red dial is optically controlled (this was in a OGRR Forum post quite a while ago regarding getting my Smoke Fluid Loader to work).

And when I add engines to DCS, I have to push the DCS remote's thumb wheel at an angle to get the remote to accept a letter. Pressing the thumb wheel straight down does not work for me/my remote.

Just my 2 cents......

Junior

A DCS Operator

gunrunnerjohn posted:
Engineer-Joe posted:
gunrunnerjohn posted:

IMO, the thumbwheel is the biggest failure of the DCS remote.  They should have spend the extra ten cents and gone with an optical encoder design instead of the discrete contact based design that quickly deteriorates!

I have 3 DCS remotes. Only one, had the thumbwheel in need of replacing. It was my first and well over 10 years old (15?). The other still two work perfectly.

I think heavy thumb pressing can accelerate their demise. Our grandkids have played with mine since they were old enough to run the trains. So I know that they have had some good use and still work well. I think the design of the wheel housing is a weak spot.

 My girl presses our remotes upstairs so hard, I could hear the plastic stressing. After wearing out a few remotes and telephones, I tried to coach her on not pressing so hard. I think some users get confused when a remote takes longer to do it's job? So they press harder to get a reaction.

I'm not talking about breaking the thumbwheel supports, I'm talking about the encoding contacts on the thumbwheel.  An optical encoder would allow smooth control, not the up and down random jumping of the speed that the DCS remote does.  I have four of them, and all but one have lousy thumbwheel control.  Contact cleaner fixes them temporarily, but they quickly develop bad habits again.

I understood what you were saying. My thumbwheels work fine in that regard. I have never had to clean them. Maybe you should swap yours out? Were they bought used? Well, even my used remote works perfectly.  The one wheel that wore out did start to skip. I do know what you're describing here.

 The very post above this talks about pushing at an angle so I figured that's where this complaining would lead to. 

Junior posted:

I concur with GRJ.....optical is they way to go!! I use Lionel's TMCC with remote to control my Smoke Fluid Loader (the DCS Remote was just NOT cutting it with this accessory) and it works "slicker than snot" . GRJ even confirmed that the Lionel remote's red dial is optically controlled (this was in a OGRR Forum post quite a while ago regarding getting my Smoke Fluid Loader to work).

And when I add engines to DCS, I have to push the DCS remote's thumb wheel at an angle to get the remote to accept a letter. Pressing the thumb wheel straight down does not work for me/my remote.

Just my 2 cents......

 

I get a kick out of comparing with the big red knob on the TMCC remote control. Mine works but it's worse than my DCS versions. Maybe it's just the older TMCC engines I run?  The knob wonders all over before the engines react and then they usually over react to speed commands.

" on Sour mash and cheap wine " ??

Why go back to DCC when I have DCS!

H1000 posted:
The DCS Commander works with ALL PS2 & PS3 locomotives. The engine will need to be factory reset in order to have the proper DCS ID to operate with a DCS Remote Commander.

Let's please clarify this...  Per the DCS Commander manual, pulse code is superimposed on flat-line DC.  It was my understanding that early 5V Proto-2 locos should NEVER be run on DC.  Any MTH Techs want to weigh in on this issue?

Also since the output is DC, I imagine that it's not advisable (or even possible) to wire a DCS commander in "passive" mode.  If it's wired in active mode, it becomes the primary voltage supply to the track, and cannot operate TMCC/Legacy on DC.  So if  you want to run Legacy AND DCS locos at the same time, you're back to using a TIU and "dumbwheel" remote 

Creep, coast, and pull.  We're not talking about cold fusion here.

Junior posted:

Totally forgot about Headcheese

Fellas!  As a man of southern Illinois German extraction, I love headcheese.  Lately, it's Oberle spicy headcheese (Ste. Genevieve, MO).  Don't knock it til you try it.  Who doesn't dig on swine?

 Delicious!

MikeH (formerly "beachhead2")

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Ted S posted:
H1000 posted:
The DCS Commander works with ALL PS2 & PS3 locomotives. The engine will need to be factory reset in order to have the proper DCS ID to operate with a DCS Remote Commander.

Let's please clarify this...  Per the DCS Commander manual, pulse code is superimposed on flat-line DC.  It was my understanding that early 5V Proto-2 locos should NEVER be run on DC.  Any MTH Techs want to weigh in on this issue?

Also since the output is DC, I imagine that it's not advisable (or even possible) to wire a DCS commander in "passive" mode.  If it's wired in active mode, it becomes the primary voltage supply to the track, and cannot operate TMCC/Legacy on DC.  So if  you want to run Legacy AND DCS locos at the same time, you're back to using a TIU and "dumbwheel" remote 

Okay Ted I think we are two different wave lengths here. I (mistakenly) thought you were talking about the DCS REMOTE COMMANDER.

I'm pretty sure that I have run one of my PS2 5v engines on DC power via the newest DCS Explorer and with the TIU via a FIXED channel.

H1000

MikeH posted:
Junior posted:

Totally forgot about Headcheese

Fellas!  As a man of southern Illinois German extraction, I love headcheese.  Lately, it's Oberle spicy headcheese (Ste. Genevieve, MO).  Don't knock it til you try it.  Who doesn't dig on swine?

 

Mike, I'm sorry but I might have to report this for vulgar content!

H1000

H1000 posted:

Mike, I'm sorry but I might have to report this for vulgar content!

I can tell you're more of calves brains man.  There's a place right next to my house.  Let me know if you're ever in St. Louie! 

Calves Brain

Brain Sandwich

MikeH (formerly "beachhead2")

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After reading the responses to my comment about the wifi, I am convinced that there are some things in life which are less preferable than the wifi.

I actually do have 2, but since I usually have much going on on my layout at any given time, I find that I just can't flip through screens fast enough and therefore prefer the remote.  I did use the wifi's a few months ago.

I've noticed the lag/skipping with the thumb wheel when scrolling quickly (i.e. locomotive mph bounces around). It's probably because I try to spin the thumb wheel as fast as I spin the scroll wheel on a mouse. This is one case where I much prefer the speed control function on the app.

Santa Fe, All the Way

Lou1985 posted:

I've noticed the lag/skipping with the thumb wheel when scrolling quickly (i.e. locomotive mph bounces around). It's probably because I try to spin the thumb wheel as fast as I spin the scroll wheel on a mouse. This is one case where I much prefer the speed control function on the app.

I repaired this one 3 years ago as i did not have a replacement...very smooth and still working.DSC00793 [2)DSC00795DSC00807wurthused this to clean and lube.

If it ain't broke,break it and make it better

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Lou1985 posted:

I've noticed the lag/skipping with the thumb wheel when scrolling quickly (i.e. locomotive mph bounces around). It's probably because I try to spin the thumb wheel as fast as I spin the scroll wheel on a mouse. This is one case where I much prefer the speed control function on the app.

The difference between physical contacts and an optical encoder.

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Alan Mancus
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