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I have space in my garage for a 6x10 layout.  I'd like to run two freight trains and was planning on using a design similar to the attached diagram (which is 5x9), but adding one or two stub end spurs since I have additional space.  (Dumb question that I have not seen answered on forums - when a train enters a spur, does it go forward or backwards?)

Ideally, I want a train table that has four eye bolts sunk through the border and bolted to the bottom for additional support.  The eye bolts would be used to attach the surface with wires to a pulley or pulley system so I could raise it to the ceiling and fit my car underneath.

My son-in-law provided a diagram (attached) of how he thought the table top should look (I would add one more crosspiece so that they would be 2' apart.  I went to my friendly local lumber yard and was advised I could make the frame out of 1x4's and the surface out of 1/2 inch plywood (they stock 10' long plywood, so that simplifies things and provides additional strength).

So, now I have a LOT of questions to throw out.  I would appreciate your comments on any or all of them.

1. Any thoughts on the design?  I don't want to make it too complicated, but if you have pictures of other 6x10's, would love to see them.

2. Are 1x4's and 1/2 inch plywood the right materials?  I don't think that the total amount of weight on the table will be that much, and 1/2 inch plywood is pretty heavy.  On the other hand, it does provide additional support for the pulley system.  When I lower it, I would simply have it sit on heavy duty saw horses.

3. And speaking of the pulley system, I am COMPLETELY ignorant on how to accomplish this.  I will probably have to hire a handyman to build it.  Does anyone out there have this setup?  Can you send me a photo or a design?

4. Finally, aesthetics.  At our local train store, their Fastrack setup is on a big table with thin green indoor/outdoor carpet as the surface.  It looks surprisingly good.  I was thinking of using the same idea (there is some really thin/cheap green indoor/outdoor at Home Depot that looks like it would work well), then using a boxcutter to remove the areas that will be roads and filling them in.  I am artistically challenged, so keeping things simple appeals to me.  Thoughts?

I so appreciate the OGR forum and being able to get advice from people who are light years ahead of me.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • Design
  • Structure of Table Frame
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The answer to some of your questions depends on what you're looking to get out of the hobby.  If you're looking to occasionally just run/display your equipment for yourself or others, your plan is fine.  But, your size choice will prevent you from ever running/displaying the largest equipment.  And, if you ever plan to run your railroad in the sense of operations (moving passengers and freight from one location to another), you will soon tire of this plan.  For other ideas, search on the web for "givens and druthers" and "model railroad layouts."  You will get lots of locations to look at trackplans and you will get some idea of how to determine what you really want.

Chuck

Carpet works well for a base but so does fleece, especially with Fastrack or Realtrax that has "built-in" roadbed/ballast. I opted for a desert appearance and Joanne has just the fleece for it:

         IMG_2831 [1)

         IMG_3721 [2)

         IMG_3854

         IMG_3856

Each stub siding in these pics has (a) car(s) spotted at various industries. Switching these sidings requires backing the train into the siding to set-out or pick-up car(s).

Attachments

Images (4)
  • IMG_2831 (1)
  • IMG_3721 (2)
  • IMG_3854
  • IMG_3856
totrainyard posted:

A rear or trailing spur is easier to drop or add cars to a train.

Harbor Freight sells cheap 12volt hoists that could be used to raise and lower a tabletop layout.

You will want to cover the top of the layout when not in use, because most garages are dirty.

Good luck with your project.

Thanks - great suggestions.

If you are going to use 4 cables, one in each corner, I would recommend 1 x 6's for the outside frame members (especially the 10' long members).  1 x 4's would be okay at first, but over time your layout would most likely start sagging in the middle, even if you don't have a lot of weight on it.

I have a 6' x 16' train table, with 1 x 4's (and a couple of 2 x 4's at plywood joints) spaced at 2' on center.  I have 8 legs total, so I didn't have to worry about the framework sagging.  However, the 1/2" plywood I used sags very slightly (probably no more than 1/8' to 3/16" max.) between the 2' spaces.  I figured this might be a distinct possibility when I built the table, but decided at that time I could live with it, if it did.  And so far, I'm okay with it.  It's not a problem for me.  But naturally, if I had wanted more guaranteed flatness, I would have went with 16" on center spacing instead.

I used this lift system for my garage layout (6x10).   Been up for 10 years, no problems.  I am using an inside layout now, in the dining room, since I have been unwell.  I will get this one running again, now that my health has come back some.   Anyway, lRacor lift system.   I am using the hand-crank, but it can be powered up and down.

Racor lift system

I had to modify the system just a bit 1)  I created a longer center axle to run 10' long.  2)  To extend the width, I added four pulleys at each corner to span 6' width.   

Trains happily stay on the tracks as it moves up and down, no real bouncing issues, nice and smooth.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Racor lift system
Last edited by Ken-Oscale

I like the lift up and out of the way concept, especially for a garage. I'd recommend placing a sheet of 1" rigid foam board down on top of the plywood. This will deaden some of the noise and makes creating terrain easier. Consider 2X3's for the frame if you don't want to go with 1X6's. For the track plan do lot's of research. Many plans are posted here on the forum, just search. Consider attaching the hoist cables with clips on the ends so you can disconnect them and keep them out of the way when the layout is down. Won't take more that one or two times whacking your arm into the cables to realize why this is a good idea.

As always its your RR your rules. Build what you like. Personally I prefer a mix of switching to keep things interesting with the ability to let the trains run loops when I just feel like watching them go.

Bob

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