Disassembling Flyer S gauge aluminum passenger cars

The aluminum cars are more robust than you think.  The extrusion process makes the metal quite rigid.   It will take more than a slight spreading of  the body to break or distort it.  They're not easy to spread, but work from one end, and little by little work one edge of the frame from the channel in the body.   Then, do the other edge.  You'll still need to spread it a bit again to remove the frame completely.  There's no easy way to do it.  But don't worry about distorting or breaking it. 

Help!  How do I delete this post? And the next one!  There's no "take action" on the last one.

So... the frame tilts out sideways and does not pull through the long way?

The frame pulls out long way after the ends are removed.

On the cars I have, if the frame is mounted all the way in the slot designed for it, the frame is well into the shell and the trucks' width prohibits the frame from sliding out the ends.  Notice how low the car sits on the frame.

I wish there WERE an easy to remove the frame!  However, removing the frame is the only way to clean and polish up these cars.

Jerry, do you prefer clear windows rather than the silhouettes and the paper diffuser? Did you change the lighting from the single bulb in the base to something overhead?

phm0 posted:

 The frame pulls out long way after the ends are removed.  Please disregard my post.  I took another look at my cars and the trucks will indeed prohibit the frame coming out long ways.

RoyBoy,

The cars' photos were taken before I was completely done with them.  Hence, no window inserts or diffuser.  But let's face it, they don't have a lot of detail.  When I finished these cars, I used repro silhouettes and and new paper as a diffuser to eliminate the yellow.  I kept the original bulb since even when I run these cars behind the PE Berk, at a full 15 volts, there's no problem with heat.  I also got them cheap! 

Taking them completely apart is the only way to clean them thoroughly.  When you get to the final polish step, a lot of guys prefer Mother's Mag Polish, available at any auto supply place.  It's good stuff, but I found a product called Wenol that I like better, made in Germany.  Those guys know detail!  Be sure to polish the fluting too.  I believe the die cast ends of these cars were originally chromed in the same fragile process used on the plastic cars.  I found traces of chrome on the inside. 

For me, I'd like to keep these particular cars original looking.  They're quite striking when cleaned up.  I have a number of American Models heavyweights (including three 80 footers) with more detail than I care to admit. If I were to detail out any Flyer cars, it would either be a set of plastic heavyweights, or the new Flyonel heavyweights. 

By the way, have you seen how American Models' diaphragms can be installed on Flyer cars?  At least the plastic ones, but there's no reason why they can't be adapted to the aluminum ones too.

phm0 posted:

phm0 posted:

 The frame pulls out long way after the ends are removed.  Please disregard my post.  I took another look at my cars and the trucks will indeed prohibit the frame coming out long ways.

 See repair clinic instructions at Portlines for instructions on removing the floor, http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic16.ht

phm0 posted:

 See repair clinic instructions at Portlines for instructions on removing the floor, http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic16.ht

phmo,

You left off part of your link.  Here is the correct link at Portlines for removing the floor.

Thanks everyone. I will attempt this in the next few weeks.

RoyBy,

I have never tried the Portliness way, I have always removed my chassis the way Jerry P. explained.  As he stated that Aluminum body is very strong, and not likely to get bent or distorted.

Good luck, and looking forward to the results of your project.

Aflyer

RadioRon posted:

The aluminum cars in your first shot are just beautiful, Jerry!     Merry Christmas!  

I agree Jerry, you have done a great job on them.

I also like those American Models New Haven cars, they are next on my wish list.

Aflyer

Ron,

Thanks on the cars!  I picked them up relatively cheap.  They were beat up, but not bad.  Two of them had side frames and a couple of wheels that were victims of the dreaded zinc pest and had to be replaced.  I used finer and finer sandpapers followed by crocus cloth, then different grit polishing compounds on buffing wheels.  I finished them off by hand with Wenol.  I only wish there were a way to make the die cast ends look better.  But the Gilbert "chrome" wore off LONG ago.

The New Haven cars aren't American Models, although theirs are very nice.  I use salvaged Gilbert cars or Flyonel ones bought on close out to do the repaints.  Doug Peck sells a silver paint that's a great match for the original Gilbert cars, and I mixed up the Vermilion to match the New Haven paint scheme on a Flyonel EP-5.  I used American Models diaphragms for added detail since they visually bring the cars closer together.  I wrote up the installation in the July/August 2014 issue of the S Gaugian. 

And a Merry Christmas to you too!  That reminds me, I have to put my Polar Express under our tree so my four year old grandson can run it...

I cleaned the four cars with ammonia just now. One truck needs replacing along with all the window strips and diffusers. It will be a while before these see track time, but at least they are not germ infested any longer.

thanks everyone.

RoyBoy posted:

I cleaned the four cars with ammonia just now. One truck needs replacing along with all the window strips and diffusers. It will be a while before these see track time, but at least they are not germ infested any longer.

thanks everyone.

RoyBoy,

I am not sure how bad your window strips are, but I have saved most of my originals.  The problems I have had was mostly dirty, somewhat yellowed, and curled to the point where they would not stay in the slots in the car body.

The first thing I do is wash them with hot water and Dawn dish soap.  While still wet roll them up into a coil, and soak them in the hot water again.  I hold them in the coil with a paper clip.  Let them dry well, and then unroll them and put them back in the cars.  They may still be a little bit yellowed, but most of mine have worked and looked pretty good.

Aflyer

Aflyer posted:

RoyBoy posted:

I cleaned the four cars with ammonia just now. One truck needs replacing along with all the window strips and diffusers. It will be a while before these see track time, but at least they are not germ infested any longer.

thanks everyone.

RoyBoy,

I am not sure how bad your window strips are, but I have saved most of my originals.  The problems I have had was mostly dirty, somewhat yellowed, and curled to the point where they would not stay in the slots in the car body.

The first thing I do is wash them with hot water and Dawn dish soap.  While still wet roll them up into a coil, and soak them in the hot water again.  I hold them in the coil with a paper clip.  Let them dry well, and then unroll them and put them back in the cars.  They may still be a little bit yellowed, but most of mine have worked and looked pretty good.

Aflyer

Thanks for the tip. I just dove into the very bottom of the recycle bin and retrived all eight window strips. Will give your method a try during the slow days this Christmas.

poniaj posted:

Ron,

 

Thanks on the cars!  I picked them up relatively cheap.  They were beat up, but not bad.  Two of them had side frames and a couple of wheels that were victims of the dreaded zinc pest and had to be replaced.  I used finer and finer sandpapers followed by crocus cloth, then different grit polishing compounds on buffing wheels.  I finished them off by hand with Wenol.  I only wish there were a way to make the die cast ends look better.  But the Gilbert "chrome" wore off LONG ago.

The New Haven cars aren't American Models, although theirs are very nice.  I use salvaged Gilbert cars or Flyonel ones bought on close out to do the repaints.  Doug Peck sells a silver paint that's a great match for the original Gilbert cars, and I mixed up the Vermilion to match the New Haven paint scheme on a Flyonel EP-5.  I used American Models diaphragms for added detail since they visually bring the cars closer together.  I wrote up the installation in the July/August 2014 issue of the S Gaugian. 

And a Merry Christmas to you too!  That reminds me, I have to put my Polar Express under our tree so my four year old grandson can run it...

 

 

Jerry,

Sorry for the late post those NH cars look even better now that I know you created them.  You have done an awesome job.  I will have to go drag out that S Gaugian, I think I have it.  And where did you locate the NH logo you have on the lower body?

Thanks again,

Aflyer