Sounds like it should be more than adequate to me. I have a very similar layout, but I have the loops isolated and use 1 PH-180 for each loop. Mine might be a bit of overkill as I seldom run more than one train per loop and I could easily get by with one PH-180.

Robert, I'm a little confused. Isn't that only part of the layout or did you change things? This is what I have in my files. My understanding is that you plan to run the Acela on the Green line, the GG1 on the Blue line and the diesel on the Yellow/Purple lines. I believe the 180 puts out 10 amps and I assume the passenger cars are all LEDs, so I agree with RTR12 and think you'll have enough power.

It should be fine off one PH-180. I run two loops off a Postwar ZW which has similar output to a PH-180 without issue. All the lights and accessories are run off a separate transformer. 

DoubleDAZ posted:

Robert, I'm a little confused. Isn't that only part of the layout or did you change things? This is what I have in my files. My understanding is that you plan to run the Acela on the Green line, the GG1 on the Blue line and the diesel on the Yellow/Purple lines. I believe the 180 puts out 10 amps and I assume the passenger cars are all LEDs, so I agree with RTR12 and think you'll have enough power.

 

Changed it. Removed the ramp and the loop up top because of the panto-graphs. Green loop is completely separate and runs a Subway. Do I dare hook that up also to the same power supply?

Acela and GG1 run on outer loops only being o-72s.

Add up the current ratings of the locos to be run simulataneously and compare to current rating for the 180 brick.    My guess is  you have way more than enough with newer locos.

Robert Cushman posted:

DoubleDAZ posted:

Robert, I'm a little confused. Isn't that only part of the layout or did you change things? This is what I have in my files. My understanding is that you plan to run the Acela on the Green line, the GG1 on the Blue line and the diesel on the Yellow/Purple lines. I believe the 180 puts out 10 amps and I assume the passenger cars are all LEDs, so I agree with RTR12 and think you'll have enough power.

 

Changed it. Removed the ramp and the loop up top because of the panto-graphs. Green loop is completely separate and runs a Subway. Do I dare hook that up also to the same power supply?

Acela and GG1 run on outer loops only being o-72s.

Thats my old layout, Im using this one.

If I'm using a TIU from my 180 brick, how many feeds should I have going to different spots of the track? or should I just run an mth engine using the app to see where low voltage spots are? Whats the ideal voltage rating, or signal strength?  Do I need to put a few more feeds and get a terminal block?

I would quarter each loop, isolating the center rail between each block (or quarter). Also isolate the center rail in the crossover between loops. Run 1 power and 1 common to the center of each block (or quarter. (Just a thought, but I would also consider adding a second crossover between loops, isolated the same as the first one.)

Use TIIU Fxd 1 channel for one loop and TIU Fxd 2 channel for the other. Power both TIU channel inputs from your PH-180. Wire outputs to separate terminal blocks for each channel, then run your track feeds from the terminal blocks to their respective tracks. I used #14 twisted pair, stranded wire to the terminal blocks and #16 twisted pair, stranded wire to the track drops. I used OGR wire which they no longer sell, but a very similar wire to OGR's is available on Monoprice. I found this wire thanks to a link provided by forum member Gilly. I can find you a link if you are interested.

Isolate the center rail after each switch going to your two sidings and add a feed to the center of each siding. Put a SPST switch in the feed to the siding so you can park an engine and shut off the power to it with the switch while it's not in use. It's good practice to keep parked engines unpowered.

My layout is very similar to yours in size and track plan. It is wired just as I described. I haven't had any DCS problems since it was first wired it in 2014. It's still working as good as ias it was when first wired.

Do you have a photo of your layout on scarm with where you put your feeds in? I'm confused by what you mean by "quarter each loop" and how would I isolate a track? I can look it up but just wanted to see if you had a photo because I'm a better visual learner.

Or could you just snip my layout and put x's where I should wire it up?

I can also grab another 180 to toss on this layout which would probably help. I had 15.00 volts and a 1-5 signal on DCS at the far end of the track.

Robert, I believe he's talking about dividing things up along these lines, each color being a quarter of each oval. The purple sections could have an on/off switch so the engines don't run when parked.

BTW, note that I fixed the joints.

Bingo!

Dave has basically done everything for me besides buy the trains. I'll be forever indebted to him.

Dave, I've also added a central o-48 elevated track that hasn't been hooked up yet. Not sure how I should hook that up either but I do want to run everything off the same Legacy controller. How do I make the purple sections turnoff?

Lionel makes a FasTrack 5" block track for just that purpose and a link to a thread here on how to use it.

As for the elevated section, I'd divide that in half too and simply run wires to it. Here's a simplistic diagram.

Dave nailed it! I think he is a bit familiar with my layout too (unless his memory is getting as bad as mine). In his above track plan, he has shown what I was talking about with the quartering of the loops. Each quarter would be a block. I don't have the extra loop you're adding, but looks like Dave has that well covered too. 

Basically, to turn off your sidings you run the power wire (hot) for the siding from your terminal strip to one terminal of a SPDT switch (just like a light switch, on or off, it will have 2 terminals), then from the 2nd terminal out to the center rail of the siding you want to turn off. The comon wire just goes from the terminal strip directly to the siding outside rail. 

I am not real familiar with Fastrack, but it looks like Dave has that covered with the 5" piece as well. I think the outer (common) rails on Fastrack are also tied together, if so you can connect to either outer of the outer rails.

RTR12, if you look closely at a photo of the top of the FasTrack Block track, you can see where the tracks are insulated from each other. If you look ate the bottom, you’ll find 3 sets of jumpers, 1 for each track. To cut power, I believe you simply add a toggle switch to the set for the center rail. You can do it with regular track, but it’s more work. It doesn’t have to be done if he’s not going to store spare engines on the layout.

Who makes the easiest to hook up spdt? 

Also the last question I’ll have is hooking it to my Terminal and then to the tiu ports.

would this cord be the easiest way http://www.nicholassmithtrains...-WIRE-SET/MTH401015/

Dave, I didn't look at the link, but I have now. Also looked at the instructions. The Fastrack system is really well thought out. I have always like it too. And yes no need to switch the sidings if they will not be used that way, but might be nice to have the switches just in case. I also certainly admire you guys that can remember and keep track of all these old threads around here!

Robert, I think 'easy' depends on who's doing the wiring. I would just look for a 10 amp SPST toggle switch. They are available in many different wiring connection configurations. Auto parts stores usually have a fair selection and they are usually have high enough amperage ratings. Ebay or Amazon would be a couple more good places to check (probably less expensive) and your local train store if you have one.

As far as connecting to your Fastrack terminals, I don't know what type of connection these take? But you can use 0.110" female crimp quick connects, ebay is probably a good place to find them. I think almost all pieces of Fastrack have lugs to connect these to. Auto parts stores might even have these too?

For the TIU I think most folks probably use banana plugs. Quality on those varies quite a bit. After trying a few different brands, I found some I like at Digikey, they come in pairs, red and black. Digikey Part: 461-1214-ND  Some may say they are a bit expensive, but they are made of heavier metal heavy and fit quite snugly in the TIU jacks, and you only need a few pairs. 

This thread shows how to manually wire FasTrack if you don't use the FasTrack terminal tracks.

Here's a new photo showing placement of the FasTrack Block tracks (#6-12060) on the spurs. Again, if you don't plan to store spare engines there, the blocks with the on/off switch aren't needed.

rtr12 posted:

I also certainly admire you guys that can remember and keep track of all these old threads around here! 

Way too much credit. All I do is a Google search and the threads are often one of the results. It helps too have some experience with searching and knowing what terms to use, but it's not rocket science, as they say.

You are giving up all your trade secrets here!   I never think of Google when I'm on here, that's a good idea. I'm not the best with search terms either, it's hit and miss. I do think of searching places where I know a certain thing is, like Digikey parts, ebay etc. Just seldom think of Google for train related things. Gotta remember that one!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RCDM-...essory-/192210827258

Would this work?

This ok?

Robert, your concept is correct. However, if you want to follow the guidelines for DCS wiring there's more to it than just connecting the wires. Here's a more complete diagram specifically for DCS.

The Black tracks are the Lionel FasTrack 5" Block tracks, part number 6-12060, that I mentioned earlier. You simply tap a SPST toggle switch to the Center jumper to turn power on an off. You can mount the toggle switch wherever it's convenient. Again, you don't need these unless you plan to park engines on the spurs while you are running others. They're only so you don't add run time to the engines when they are parked for extended periods and not really running.

The Gray tracks are the power connection tracks. Terminal tracks are easiest to use because they have connectors with wires already attached. If you use a standard track, I don't believe they have connectors underneath, so you have to manually connect the wires, usually by soldering.

The Red lines are block ends. This is where you isolate the Center rail. I don't use FasTrack, so I don't know if it's as simple as pulling the center rail pins and making sure the rails don't touch. I'm not sure about isolating other rails on the crossover switches.

FWIW, we tend to get hung up on suggestions for DCS to separate layouts into blocks of 10 joints, to isolate the center rail and to wire 10-12 blocks per TIU channel. That's how we came up with the suggestion to divide your layout into blocks. RTR12 will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe DCS likes the power connections (Gray tracks) close to the center of each block so power (control signal) is distributed more evenly.

I was just over there and one engine shut off completely here 

This is what I have under my track then to banana plugs into TIU in my terminal piece which is powering the entire thing which is probably the reason the Acela pooped out where it did.

Am I correct that there is a single set of wires going from the 180 to the TIU and a single set of wires going from the TIU to a terminal track? And right now this powers everything except the elevated oval in the middle?

Does the Acela go through the crossovers without any problems and the only place it stops is on the spur shown in the photo? What about the other spur? Can you run just the engine onto the spur and does it still stop?

 How many terminal tracks do you have?

Only 1 set of wires powering that entire layout going direct into TIU then other side of tiu is 180 Brick.  

Yes that’s the only spot on the layout it has problems. 

With power on and the train off, you might want to check the voltage before, at and after the switch with a voltmeter to help narrow down what the issue is.

Do other engines go through that switch w/o problems ? 

Did you run just the engine through that switch and does it stop at the same place?

Stops in same spot. I’ll do some more testing tomorrow. Do you think I could get away with just one of those terminals?

If it stops in the same spot, then I suspect the power connection is somehow broken between the curve and the straight track. I doubt it’s a lack of enough power, but a lack of any power. There’s obviously power on the curve, so power is not getting to the straight and to me it only makes sense that no power is getting to the straight track. Ritchie is right, if you have a voltmeter, check for voltage. If you don’t have one, try putting a lighted car on the spur. You can also try connecting power to the other end, but that doesn’t narrow it down much. You can try a different track there too and make sure all the rails are connected properly.

I don’t have a lighted car but one with freightsounds that will do the same. In the meantime I’ll order the terminal and track I need to finish my layout. Also will let u know how those spdts workout. Need to get more copper wire to make those connections. The beauty of that track is that every piece can be used as a terminal to connect power to. 

You really don't need terminal tracks to add more power feeds. Every full section of Fastrack has tabs for power, as you stated above. They are way overpriced for a notch and wire that is way too small. The 1 and 3/8" sections can also be used to isolate the center rail by just removing the jumper wire underneath.

John if I did add more power feeds where would I connect all of them if I didn’t use that terminal? The tiu only has 1 more output I think.

Then I could connect it to the terminal with this

For discussion purposes, here are what I see as some wiring options:

I suspect you can get away with this, but I can't guarantee you won't run into DCS problems without separating the layout into blocks and adding power drops to each block. Notice the toggle switches are missing.

Here are the toggle switches added.

Here's another option with more power drops, but no block insulators. Again, I can't guarantee you won't have DCS issues. I think RTR12 might be able to comment on that because I believe he ran into issues before he added the blocks.

Here's a repost of the full breakdown I posted earlier. You can try adding the 1 3/8" "kill switch" tracks John mentioned, but you'd have to change where the blocks break so each crossover is in the same block or adding the short tracks between them will cause fitment issues.

I asked that guy who makes the switches on eBay with a 3D printer and said I won’t need a block after the switch unless the other end is continuous but if it’s a dead end there won’t be a problem. Those are very nice. I’ll probably try the first wiring job. If I experience problems I’ll add the other side. I like Legacy better than DCS and prefer the remote vs the app. If that doesn’t work I’ll get either another 180watt Brick or go for the big ZW-L. 

How about one of these? https://mthtrains.com/30-74970

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lSN38DKdcDA

I'm sorry, Robert. I misunderstood what you meant by terminal. You were talking about the terminal strip, and I was thinking track.

John H posted:

I'm sorry, Robert. I misunderstood what you meant by terminal. You were talking about the terminal strip, and I was thinking track.

Yeah the terminal strip sorry. 

DoubleDAZ posted:

 

FWIW, we tend to get hung up on suggestions for DCS to separate layouts into blocks of 10 joints, to isolate the center rail and to wire 10-12 blocks per TIU channel. That's how we came up with the suggestion to divide your layout into blocks. RTR12 will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe DCS likes the power connections (Gray tracks) close to the center of each block so power (control signal) is distributed more evenly.

Didn't copy it, but your wiring diagram on the track plan above looks good to me! And yes, I believe wiring to the center of each block is recommended as well. That is how I did mine and I tried to follow Barry's book as closely as possible when I wired it, didn't want any problems later on. Also 10-12 track joints per block is recommended.  You got it! 

In your most recent post, just above (edit, Dave that is now 4 posts above, I got derailed), scrap all the layouts with no blocks, that will cause problems with the DCS signal. If using only one power feed to a loop, it still needs at least one break in the center rail somewhere. I'd probably go with 2 breaks and 2 power feeds absolute minimum, but quartering it like the last drawing in that post would be much better, IMO.

I had all kinds of DCS problems, even with some pretty small temporary layouts with only one power feed and no breaks in the center rail. I thought they were too small to make any difference, I was wrong!  Those problems all went away when I wired my permanent layout per Barry's book, no problems since then. That is, except for the self inflicted ones I still cause for myself every now and then.

Robert Cushman posted:

I asked that guy who makes the switches on eBay with a 3D printer and said I won’t need a block after the switch unless the other end is continuous but if it’s a dead end there won’t be a problem.

Right, that shouldn’t be there, I missed it when I deleted the other one, but all it was really doing was point out there’s a block there because of the Block track.

RTR12, like I said, I’ve run 2 engines on a single track around the 4x8x10 “L” without any center rail isolation and had no problems, but I didn’t have any switches or additional runs, so the trains were just following each other. However, I too would wire things like the last example, though I’m just not convinced the 10 joints and 10-12 blocks per Channel are hard rules. I suspect a lot has to do with how much equipment you run and how much power you have, but it’s rather obvious that a single power drop can run this whole layout for Legacy, though maybe not for DCS. Since Lionel makes Block tracks, it looks like it would be easy enough to add them. Either way I hope Robert doesn’t fasten the track until he’s sure it’s all working. 

Robert Cushman posted:

How about one of these? https://mthtrains.com/30-74970

I’m not familiar with it, but it looks like it would track the voltage around the track. You’d have to push it onto the spur to tell you if the track after the curve is a dead track. I don’t know if it’s worth $70 though. I’d replace the track after the curve first to see what happens and then pick up a $10 volt meter to test continuity, etc.

It's been several years now (2012-2013 or so), but I had a couple of 3'x6' or 3'x7' circles/ovals of track with no breaks in the center rail and only one power drop to the track. At the time I had 2 engines, one PS2 and one PS3. One or the other was always giving me the dreaded 'engine not found', 'out of range' or one of those other nasty DCS error messages. I did add a switch or two at some point, but the problem started as soon as I got the second engine. It does seem like I wasn't getting errors or at least not nearly as many when I had only one engine and had just gotten back inthe hobby.

Anyway, that all stopped when I built my current layout and followed Barry's book, which made a believer out of me. I don't doubt it probably works for some, but it didn't work for me. I also haven't been around that many other layouts, just mostly the ones I have had on my own.  

I agree on the number of joints and blocks per channel, I think that is just a best practice, but you can also fudge a bit here and there. Compromises have to be made here and there and it's probably ok for the most part. It's really the blocks (or breaks in the center rail) that I am totally sold on from personal experience.   

Robert, if you watch the Harbor Freight ads or Google for their coupons, every so often they have offers for a free meter with purchase. Not a fancy one, but good enough for checking voltages, continuity, etc.

RTR12, that’s interesting. Both my engines are PS3, but I think the Z500 only puts out 4.5 amps. Yes, it’s enough for the 2 engines and 6 lighted cars, but I was surprised I never had problems. Oh well, like I sad, I’d play it safe, so we’ll see how Robert does.

Yes it is interesting. My first engine was PS2 and as I recall, worked pretty well by itself for a while on the small loop of track. I started out with a Z500 too, with MTH starter set.

Also maybe an important question. If Im using 14gauge copper wire, Can I run it about 8ft from the Terminal to TIU or is that too far.

If you have them handy send me a photo of your layouts.

The guidelines for DCS suggest 16 gauge wire from TIU to track is sufficient for runs up to 30’, so I see no reason why you can’t use 14 gauge from the TIU to a terminal block. I assume the 180 and TIU are on one side of the layout and you want to put a terminal on the other side.

14g should be ok. Sometimes wire can present signal issues though.

 Signal issues are hard to know about before a set up is tried. Later; moving it or changing something may introduce an issue that wasn't there before.  You just can't assume anything will or won't work on a whim; IMO it's the nature of the digital beast to vary performance within various environments.

Using higher strand counts when the option presents itself is usually a good idea.... and is often more flexible wire😉

I'm a firm believer in wire gauge oversizing for power, so the power delivery is always up to par and melted looms are more of a longshot. I'd rather replace melted roadbed than wires.... and I'll see any melted track; not so on wires.

  Fat busses & fusing the main feed so the track's (&/or bus)  max amps is never reached is the "ideal" design. (transformer breakers are protecting the transformer by design. The fact they somewhat protect the track/etc. is not really why they are there; ideally you fuse the items ran by the transformer separately🤔)

RTR12 you're right; Barry suggested equal length isolated blocks and feeding the blocks near each block length's centers for the most consistant operation.

Side note. How do I wire this Burning switch tower to a fastrack setup? 

The older version without the plug n play.

just plug into this? 

I believe so. I think the single wire would go to the outside rail connection and the other 3 to the center rail. Hopefully, someone will correct me because I know nothing about Lionel accessories, old or new.

Got the spdt switches.

Check this out. 

Interesting, power is not getting past that first straight track.

This Lionel Video about Fastrack Continuity might help.

Reading all these posts about the nuances associated with DCS make me a firm believer in on board battery power or tmcc/legacy.  I know it has a following but jeeze.  And to answer the original question you seem to have sufficient power.

Says 15-17 around the entire track. I can’t be certain but where that power cut might have a block piece now that I think about it. I’ll check tomorrow. 

Yeah it’s a block piece false alarm everyone. 

Glad the mystery has been solved. I didn’t think you had any block tracks yet, but I guess I should have asked. I thought that was a 30” track there, didn’t notice in the earlier photos that it wasn’t.

These are awesome.

Thank you gentlemen!

Turn your phone over to horizontal before you start any video. 

So if one 180 watt is sufficient for this layout, how big do you need to go to make it worth your whole to get that Zw-L?

John H posted:

Turn your phone over to horizontal before you start any video. 

YES, Public Service Announcement on V-V-S:

Need for a ZW-L is not necessarily determined by layout size. It has more to do with what you are powering with your ZW-L. It all depends on your power requirements. 

If you have a small layout with lots of lighted (non-LED) passenger cars, postwar trains, powered accessories, incandescent lights, etc. on your layout, you might need a ZW-L for a much smaller layout. 

How do I make the top loop turn off with the spdt switch? I got block pieces I can toss in. Just want the ability to turn off the loop. 

If I understand the switch you're using, the top example shows how things are wired now. You have hot and ground coming from the transformer or terminal block to the tracks. There is a break in the center track with a wire from one side going to the In on the switch and the other side to Out1 on the switch. When the switch is On, power is routed to Out1. When you flip the switch Off, power transfers to Out2 that leads to nothing, supposedly tuning power off to the center track. However, since this is an oval and not a dead-end spur, the power is circling the track and coming in from both directions when it hits the switched track, the switch isn't really doing anything in this case.

The bottom example shows the hot wire connected to the In on the switch and another wire from Out1 to the center track. Now when the switch is in the On position, power is routed to Out1 and the track. When you flip the switch Off, it again transfers to Out2 that still leads to nothing, effectively turning power off to the center track.

In both cases, a double throw wasn't needed, but could be useful if you wanted to add something like a red light to the circuit to show power is off. The switch can be added to the hot wire and mounted anywhere, I just used your current setup for the example. 

Here’s underneath of what it looks like.

Spdt where should I put the hot into this?

Actually, after looking at it again, I think you can simply attach it to the post that isn’t being used. Right now if the switch is “on”, the route goes from one side of the track through the switch to the other side. However, if you attach the Hot to the unused post, then when you flip the switch, the route will now go from that post to the track, effectively turning the power “on”.

Thank you again! Problem resolved.

Glad that worked.

Dave don’t take this the wrong way but your a darn train genius! Can’t say d a m n.

Thanks, but you give me way too much credit, I’ve just had some experience with switches and block wiring from the HO days.

Dave, I have another brain buster for you. Can you make a loop connect the top part with 2 Left 0-48 switches with minimum room. I can go as low as o-36 for turns.

Adding a single reversing loop doesn't do much because you can't reverse again without backing through the loop. However, I don't know if you just happen to have the O48 switches left over and want to use them for something, so here are 3 options.

Option 1 uses O-36 switches and O-36 curves to give you both reversing loops.

Option 2 uses O-48 switches and O-48 curves to give you a single reversing loop. A 2nd loop cannot be added without lengthening the oval. This design has an "S" curve between the switches.

Option 3 uses O-48 switches and O-36 curves to give you a single reversing loop. A 2nd loop cannot be added without lengthening the oval.

I used a single reverse loop, and now kinda feel it's two R-loops or forget it. I'd rather have more passing sidings/runarounds or even a fig.8..  I hate backing thru the single loop to reverse a second time. When I'm ready for a reversing chall3nge I prefer a stub siding.

I end up running it until "delivery", then reversing in the loop, then ignoring it by going into endless looping mode 😯   Which is still ok because I enjoy the "campfire" aspect of relaxing with silent looping; but other folks hate looping and prefer more prototyped aspects in operation(times, delivery, loading/unloading; etc..   I.e., learn know your inner engineer; your true impulses and habits as they trump any cool track plans that don't really serve into your actual tendencies while running.  I knew my habits as Gramps and Great Gramps were big model RR guys , plus I ran yearly on the floor for 40+ years. I still played with track plans for two years before detailing anything and then kinda missed playing with the track plans. (I scratch that itch with a floor layout a few times a year now😁)  Not necessarily a suggestion so much as a point to ponder; it may be NA.

Dave; you do have a decent knack for teaching. You naturally "shift views" taylored to the student needs and assume little (to teach well assume the student knows NOTHING.... {very loose Plato}

An Oval and Figure 8 with 4 switches give reversing in both directions without backing up.  Oval and Figure 8 has been my favorite small track plan since Santa brought it to me and my brother as kids.  It is the basis for my existing layout for the last 40 years.

Charlie

Adriatic posted:

Dave; you do have a decent knack for teaching. You naturally "shift views" taylored to the student needs and assume little (to teach well assume the student knows NOTHING.... {very loose Plato}

Thank you, I appreciate the compliment.

That’s a good point Charlie. I concentrated on using the O-48 switches I think Robert already has, but I can work up the Figure 8 if he wants me to.

Remember I’ve got that big hole in the middle. I’m going to go with option 3. But remember I run the pantographs on Gg1 and Acela so that’s why I’ll be squeezing it. 

Dave’s right I only have 2 auto switches o-48s in left hand left. Currently I have the switch on the bottom going into the other switch with 2 dead ends not going over any track. Will take a photo tomorrow for you guys.

Here is the current layout

Robert, something's not adding up. I see extra 10" tracks in each of the ovals, so what you've laid out appears to differ somewhat from the photos we've been working with. Assuming that's the case, here's the best you can do using Option 3. It will require you to add a support as shown. If that goes too close to the gold track, you'll need to adjust the width by replacing 10" tracks with 5", etc., and move the support.

Here is the current.

Dave can you tell me what parts are involved in that loop in the center elevated track?

I don’t have the real version of Scarm so it won’t let me open it up

Do you mean these?

Yes sir. Thank you!

Think I could squeeze an elevated bridge in between the o-36 curves into the middle?

The Atlas 40" bridge is too long with the curves leading into it, but something in the 30" range would fit.

Here are some samples that I found, so I can't vouch for the accuracy. The first is an under arch style, the middle is supposed to be a Lionel double truss bridge and the third is supposed to be an Atlas single truss bridge. Here's a link to Lionel's single truss bridge that is 26 1/8" long, 7 1/2" wide and 12 1/2" tall. Obviously, you'll need to figure out how to support it.

I’m on the Mth subways trestles at 5 3/4” high for this.

How are you supporting the tracks going across the inner opening?

MTH RealTrax O 40-1101 Single Track Steel Arch Bridge, Silver

think this would fit? Should be same height as the subway trestles.

Going to build support same level as the table is at.

I can assume it’s compatible with the trestle set. The only specs I find says the underbridge clearance is 5 3/4” and the trestle rise 6 1/2”. Obviously the track sits on the bridge structure, so they should line up with the tracks on the trestle.

Will find out when it gets here. Ha. Thank you again.

Should be coming in the mail today. Ill let you know how it goes.

Works just gotta make support for it.

Good news.