Double Deck Benchwork Questions

Hi Eliot,

Do the trains need to travel between levels? or Do the levels need to be interconnected?

Basic frame work idea:

That is so cool !

I am running into issues with mine being too close to the wall. Using this idea I could have the main level on the bottom and the 2nd and even a 3rd.

Many thanks fellas. The trains will NOT travel between levels. Both levels will be totally separate geographically and electrically.

Tom . . . . your example is terrific.

Eliot

Some general ideas for double-deck layout design:

* The upper shelf would be narrower than the lower shelf (over most of its length) so it doesn't excessively overshadow it.

* The lower shelf should not be so wide that it makes access to the upper shelf overly difficult.

* Supports for the upper shelf should preferably be minimum vertical depth for aesthetics and space efficiency.

* Clearance between the upper and lower shelves should strike a balance between good access and good viewing for both levels, and efficient use of space.

As part of your design process, I would suggest that you experiment with improvised shelves of different widths at different elevations, to determine basic dimensions that suit you. These dimensions will have a bearing on designing the support structure. 

What minimum radius are you aiming for in your 16' x 30' layout space? Would you anticipate having one duck-under/movable bridge section?

Thanks, Ace

Eliot, think weight when planing modular sections, 2 x 4's can be heavy depending on length, try designing using 1 x 4's and 1/4" plywood with detachable 2 x 4's on the back if needed to hold up the upper level.  Good luck with your two level layout.

Jack

My above photos are from a module job.  I also did it on my last layout by building onto the studs while under construction.  Note same type of cantilevers but built in.  Note, close inspection will reveal descending grade of the upper level cantilevers as it approaches the door :

I"m not sure this is what you're looking for, but here's a few early construction pictures of how I did my levels. Basically I cut plywood cookie cutter style to fit the tracks and elevated them with 1X2's.  Some of the 1X2's will be covered by hillsides and any exposed supports will be blended in somehow or replaced with something fancier.  I secured the roadbed to the supports with 1 1/4" drywall screws.  Make sure, if you're double tracked, to place the screws between the the tracks in case you want to make changes.  That way you don't need to move track to replace or move a support.  Guess how I learned that!!  Since it is double tracked, the weight of the structure plus the curvature around the layout is all it needs to be secure.  After 14 years it hasn't moved unless I move it.  You can even put a drop of carpenter's glue under a few supports to help secure it.

For wiring I just ran the feeders below the main bench work to bus wires.  Again, the wiring will be behind scenery eventually.  Anywhere not covered by scenery I secured the wires behind a support and down through the bench work.  Hope this helps!

Brian,

Sorry to take so long to thank you for your suggestions. Great ideas and a great build. I am going back to the drawing board to refine my layout requirements.

Thanks again,

eliot

Mianne bench work has a cantilever system that will allow the top level to be any distance above the lower level since Tim will make the height of the uprights to your specs.  

Mike

EZ Mike, many thanks. You're bringing the work crew over to help, right? Your son-in-law is a carpenter? OK, break out the Corona

The most important factor in the design in my opinion is to plan for sufficient lighting.  I was not happy with strip leds.  Some of them began to dim after considerable use.  Ultimately, I reverted to nice track lights with leds in them.  I wish I had left a little more room.  Since you are planning for an island type, you will probably have more of the lower covered up than some of the posted plans, thus lighting is crucial.  Good luck. 

@Tom Tee posted:

Basic frame work idea:

Tom did you get these laser cut or jig saw cut? Thanks

Tom's a jigsaw man, but he's very accurate with it.

I would be willing to wager that Tom is using CNC ( computer numerical control ) to cut those supports.

Actually all the parallel edges and inset recesses were cut on a table saw.  All the arm tips were cut on a chop saw.  All the curvatures  were cut with a Bosch jig saw then cleaned up with a spindle sander.  The recess notches were cut with a table saw and trimmed with a jig saw.

The angled lower edge of the 2nd and 3rd level fingers were cut with a chop saw.

This type of fabrication will produce a fair amount of scrap which will be needed for risers.

Something to consider:  Cut a notch out of the side or end of a 4 X  8 or a 5 X 9 table and inset your table saw and / or chop saw with the deck flush with the plywood.  Now you will now  have a nice cutting table for fun cuts.

Keith, I'll take that wager. 

At a show one time someone asked if I used a C.A.D.  My wife responded "No, he uses a T.O.M."

Anything I build can be done with very common big box tools.

Another way to incorporate a table saw with a table is to use a pair of 10' long mid height leg braces which would extend 2' off the end of a 8' long table at a height which a contractors table saw could be set to provide a flush take off surface.

I used this at the entrance of my shop where I could back up a vehicle and rip panels as I pulled them off the truck bed.  Makes for a convenient one man operation.

@Keith k posted:

I would be willing to wager that Tom is using CNC ( computer numerical control ) to cut those supports.

I'd be willing to take your money!  I've seen Tom work with the tools mentioned, so I was 99.99% sure it was not CNC.

Tom that’s **** impressive work mate.

Unfortunately I only have a jigsaw so it’s a tough ask to do the whole lot by hand.

What timber do you use and how thick is it?

How do you attach the panels to each other?

Thanks again for the info.