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Can anyone tell me why the testors dull cote rattle can is producing the the spotty finish as shown below?  There was a coat of testors gloss coat applied prior with no noticeable spots before the dull cotewas applied.  The gloss coat was allowed to dry for over 3 days before applying the gloss coat.  I did some searches online and didn’t really learn anything to address this.

Thanks!BE106B0F-A02E-43D5-8B94-4A798C3DD1E5

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Last edited by Hump Yard Mike
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I don’t know if I’d apply a second wet coat ....you might chance forming wrinkles in both layers of existing clear coats,.....Mike, how many coats of Dullcoat have you applied?....were there any possible impurities on the roof before the Dullcoat went on?.......when this happens, the easiest remedy is to LIGHTLY scuff the smooth areas with fine scotchbrite ( grey or red) wipe the roof down with a clean microfiber and visual inspect for flaws or fuzzies left behind,.....once you’re satisfied the roof is slick & smooth, apply one even MEDIUM coat in one motion and observe the finish,....a hairdryer speeds up the curing process,.....inspect your work and either repeat the scuffing process or apply one more medium coat in one fluid motion to lock it in,......also, test your can on a piece of scrap to be sure it’s not spattering,.......I’ve long since stopped using Testors Dullcoat in favor of Krylon’s flat clear....that product comes out at a higher pressure than Dullcoat, and the can lasts ten times longer for less money,....

Pat

Thanks guys,

I believe there is plenty of pressure in the can and i do not observe any spitting or unusual spray when it goes on.

I have put another couple of coats where the entire surface looks wet, and it is still drying with same surface.  I was sure to shake the can excessively and I am painting in 50% humidity.

Being the model is wood, stripping the paint is not really an option I am excited about.  

Wondering if there is a better product before I paint the bottom of the caboose that may not cause the same issue, but be compatible with the testors gloss coat already on there.  I have had bad luck with rattle cans from big box store causing crinkling when applied over its self or a other colors of the same brand.

I've never had much luck using Dulcote from a rattle can. Lots of time it leaves a mottled finish although every once and a while it comes out good. Like others said humidity has a bad effect on it but I think the main problem is in the nozzle. The spray droplets are too large using the cheap nozzle. I always use an airbrush with Dulcote. Thin it about 25% first, use an external mix airbrush at about 30 pounds pressure. This results in a very fine spray so it goes on evenly and dead flat.

Ken

Thanks guys,

I believe there is plenty of pressure in the can and i do not observe any spitting or unusual spray when it goes on.

I have put another couple of coats where the entire surface looks wet, and it is still drying with same surface.  I was sure to shake the can excessively and I am painting in 50% humidity.

Being the model is wood, stripping the paint is not really an option I am excited about.  

Wondering if there is a better product before I paint the bottom of the caboose that may not cause the same issue, but be compatible with the testors gloss coat already on there.  I have had bad luck with rattle cans from big box store causing crinkling when applied over its self or a other colors of the same brand.

As Pete mentioned, your best results will come from a gun, such as a half descent airbrush........you’re removing the propellant variable and now you’re in control of pressure, and volume of material,.....all you can do with a rattle can is push the button,...😉

Pat

Mike, yes,...the results from a gun will be far better than from a rattle can,...rattle can paints use propellants to get the material out of the can,...those propellants are mixed with the paint, strike one, you can not control the volume coming out of a rattle can, strike two, .....you can not control the pressure coming out of a rattle can,....strike three,......practice with your Iwata, play with the reductions, the pressures and the volume you’ll notice the finishes will be dramatically different from a gun vs a can,....the biggest advantage of an airbrush in this hobby to me is the ability to apply a pin point amount of paint in the smallest area,....you ain’t doing that with a rattle can ,....at least not with out a lot of back masking,...😉

Pat

Before you do anything drastic like trying to remove the paint chemically or with sandpaper, get some of the Dulcote in a bottle and some lacquer thinner. Mix up the Dulcote with 25% thinner and practice with your airbrush on some old models from your junkbox. After you feel like you've got airbrushing down, spray your caboose with very light coats letting them dry for about 10 minutes between coats. Don't overdo it don't let the surface get very wet. It just may get rid of the mottled appearance. I've done this before and have had some success. However it was years ago before when I decided rattle cans were hopeless if you wanted a good finish.

Ken

Can anyone tell me why the testors dull cote rattle can is producing the the spotty finish as shown below?  There was a coat of testors gloss coat applied prior with no noticeable spots before the dull cotewas applied.

Curious as well since I just had a reverse experience where the gloss (I was added it to do the decaling) over the paint over the primer that had been drying for 2 weeks plus lifted both layers of paint right down to the brass.  I've not ever had that happen before.  Beginning to wonder about all sorts of changes in formulation.

If I was going to attempt to remove the paint, are others use 409 or something else?

Before I went that drastic, I would use a magic eraser very lightly to go over this area. Should work fine to remove those spots. And in my opinion, stay clear of rattle cans if at all possible. They do cause these issues from time to time-- especially given you have an airbrush to use. Just my opinion...

Last edited by Jeff78rr

9B2A6C39-261E-4893-B0A6-CB5F681F2AE9I have a decent air brush (iwata) but not clear why the results would be any better using it if the paint is the same lacquer ?  If I did use the air brush, I was planning on using the stuff below but need to pick up some lacquer thinner.  Has this stuff worked well for you?

Besides the points Pat makes, by using an airbrush with a finer spray and lacquer thinner you can hold the airbrush further back so the paint goes on dryer. Normally you wouldn't  want to do that with a gloss or satin finish but in this case you want a flat finish and this will accomplish that with less paint than that rattle can will apply.

Pete

I stopped using T.D.C. a few years back for weathering. Spotty texture is good for what I do. If the spots are large, clean the nozzle. I just use it now only over decals. Seems they changed the formula and also raised the price. It has a satin shine since the change and is no longer flat.

Use Krylon clear flat as a substitute. I buy it by the box / case at Lowes. A large can goes a long way with a lower material cost as well.

Last edited by SIRT
@Jeff78rr posted:

Before I went that drastic, I would use a magic eraser very lightly to go over this area. Should work fine to remove those spots. And in my opinion, stay clear of rattle cans if at all possible. They do cause these issues from time to time-- especially given you have an airbrush to use. Just my opinion...

Question: What is in MAGIC ERASER that removes all these stains and such. Inquiring minds want to know

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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