Dull Topcoat Over Powder

I've heard some use a light coat of hairspray.

I know this is the recommended technique, but when I tried it, I ended up blowing half the chalk off.

I'd really like to get good at weathering as I love the look. 

dont use chalk weather with paint

@BobbyD posted:

I've heard some use a light coat of hairspray.

OMG!  But, if you do, BE SURE IT'S THE UN-SCENTED VARIETY!!!   Many, many years ago I attended an NMRA regional convention and toured some of the locals' layouts.  One of which...how shall we say?...'stood out'.  Seems the chap, in his rush to put more scenery/greenery on the layout chose the expedient thing to do...use his wife's can of hairspray to apply fresh foliage to the tree-covered mountains.  Except the hairspray was 'scented'...and the layout spoke shouted "Hair Salon!".  Perhaps that dissipated over time.  But, I'm sure he grew tired of responding to "What's that smell?"

------------

Separate comment on your inquiry...

Many of us have used chalk powders to weather this and that on the layout.  To fix it in place, avoid transfer to fingers if on an engine or rolling stock item, we would overspray with Dullcoat...only to see the weathering seemingly disappear!  So I'd be really interested if there's a new overspray that minimizes/eliminates that disappointment.  I've since done most of the 'weathering' using washes and paints, dry brush techniques, etc..  But I'd rather use chalks in many situations.

KD

I've been experimenting with powders. I do find it hard to keep them in place. I've mixed the powder with a little water which helps but they can still rub off when handled.
I need to learn more about using paints.
I use Rustoleum clear matte to seal everything in.

Here's an old caboose shell I used to make a yard office.

Bob

All clear coats will dilute colored powders except black soot. It will also eat colored pencils and chalks. Details like rust and marks have to be hand done using acrylic or oil-based paints. I recently started using oil pastels for certain rust marks. Both are not affected.

I apply colored pencils to the roof and wood grain areas last after the clear has been already applied. No need to coat or seal them.

@SIRT posted:

All clear coats will dilute colored powders except black soot. It will also eat colored pencils and chalks. Details like rust and marks have to be hand done using acrylic or oil-based paints. I recently started using oil pastels for certain rust marks. Both are not affected.

I apply colored pencils to the roof and wood grain areas last after the clear has been already applied. No need to coat or seal them.

Very true Steve. The black is about all you see on the roof of my caboose. I had a more streaks and marks on there before the spray ate them for lunch....

So true.  You think you did a great job.  Then you spray it with a topcoat and it all disappears

@Dave Koehler posted:

dont use chalk weather with paint

This ^^^^
Weathering powders like Bragdon’s is a bit more tolerant but if you want something that will stand up to clear coats use Pan Pastels.

Pete

@Norton posted:

This ^^^^
Weathering powders like Bragdon’s is a bit more tolerant but if you want something that will stand up to clear coats use Pan Pastels.

Pete

So, Pan Pastels will tolerate a coating of clear over the top? I checked out their website and they have a nice selection of colors that would work well for railroading.

Pan pastels are pretty durable. You have to be careful when applying as they take some effort to remove if you make a mistake. They can be cleaned off with mineral spirits, maybe glass cleaner though. You will want to practice on some scrap first to get a feel for them.

Pete

Never a good idea, ….paint might not penetrate the powders/chalks and prevent the paint from holding on…..from handling, if the powders or chalks, move so will any top coats, and then you’ll be left with blotchy spots that will just look plain hideous,…..if you wish to top coat weathering, best to use an airbrush with AE (acrylic enamel) or even properly cured acrylics…..a true acrylic is alcohol based, and when the alcohol evaporates off, it leaves the pigment behind ( the acrylic part) when cured properly, products like dullcoat will not lift it….

Pat

I’ve never used pan pastels, so I don’t know how they’ll react to being top coated ….I’ll defer that to the fellas like Pete that know …..

Pat

The smokebox on this engine was done with Pan Pastels. No clearcoat over it as its not easily rubbed off.

Pete

Are the Pan Pastels applied in a similar way to the chalk materials? Basically, dusted on with a brush.

You can use a brush or if you get one of the kits it comes with foam pad applicators.

Pete

What I do is first a coat of dullcote or similar flat finish.  Then I apply powders or chalks,  followed by a sealer coat of flat finish.  I usually use acrylic flat  by hobby lobby. The initial coat helps the powders to adhere to the surface.

@Frank Mulligan posted:

I know this is the recommended technique, but when I tried it, I ended up blowing half the chalk off.

You were too close Frank. Light coats.

@dkdkrd posted:

OMG!  But, if you do, BE SURE IT'S THE UN-SCENTED VARIETY!!!   Many, many years ago I attended an NMRA regional convention and toured some of the locals' layouts.  One of which...how shall we say?...'stood out'.  Seems the chap, in his rush to put more scenery/greenery on the layout chose the expedient thing to do...use his wife's can of hairspray to apply fresh foliage to the tree-covered mountains.  Except the hairspray was 'scented'...and the layout spoke shouted "Hair Salon!".  Perhaps that dissipated over time.  But, I'm sure he grew tired of responding to "What's that smell?"

------------

Wow, not sure how many cases it would take to do that. Did he spray the trees until dripping an hour before the crowd arrived?