Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Krylon flat clear.

@Bob posted:

I agree.  Specifically, the one I use is Krylon Colormaxx "Flat Krystal Clear."

I concur.  I have used both Krylon Gloss Clear and Flat (Matte) Clear for decaling and/or dulling finishes with great results.  Admittedly, the stuff stinks, so you either should have a spray booth w/ exhaust fan or else do it outdoors.

Testor's Glosscote and Dullcote are great products too, but a long time ago I got tired of occasional availability issues and the high prices of the little spray cans.

@dkdkrd posted:
I don't know what it is about that product but I have NEVER had a bad experience with it, and why I would try something else on a labor of love like that kit to save money is one of those mysteries of human foible-dumb.

There is a good reason to use something else - dry transfers from Clover House are not quite compatible with Dullcote.  They are however fine with Rustoleum Matte Clear which is what I use now for most cars that I build.

OK further update. I Just finished painting a few cars, all with Scalecoat II. A few reefers in Boxcar Red (Brown) and a few in a combo of Yellow/Blue. I dulled one of the Brown cars with Krylon Clear Flat and it worked great. HOWEVER, with the Yellow/Blue car the paint cracked. Not a total loss and the cracking may add to the aging and weathering but am weary of adding more Krylon as it is not the desired look.

Has anyone else experienced this?  Is there a compatibility factor as to what paints will go with what sealer/Dulling coats? Were the Yellow and Blue paints defective?

Any help  here appreciated and this continues

Original Krylon, not the plastic safe version, is listed as an enamel but the solvents in it are more like a lacquer. It will attack a lot of paints, especially fresh paint.

Dullcote is also a lacquer. I have had it attack decals that were a week old when sprayed from a rattle can. Using it from an airbrush I can apply lighter coats, which dry faster and flatter and not had it lift any paint or lettering.

You read a lot of recommendations for various products on the forum but not so much how to use it. How to use it is just as important as what to use.

Pete

I don't know how you guys get good results from rattle can clear finishes. I haven't tried any of the big box store clear finishes on a models because I don't want to mess up something I've spent a lot of time building and painting. My experience with Dullcote from a rattle can has not been good. Frequently it leaves either a visibly grainy (thin coat) or mottled finish (thick coat). Humidity affects the finish greatly as I don't dare use rattle can Dullcote on a humid day (which is frequent around here).

I get my best results with Dullcote using an airbrush. The airbrush sprays the paint in much finer droplets than is possible from a rattle can nozzle. The result is a very consistent flat finish. The amount of shine can be adjusted by mixing some Glosscote in with the Dullcote.

I like Tamiya rattle can paints although they tend to be expensive. I tried their flat finish and I felt that although flat it left kind of a milky, translucent finish.

Finding Dullcote in bottles can be a problem, however. Testors is reducing its model paint lineup greatly. Several years ago they dumped Floquil. About a year ago they eliminated most of their military paints, now I understand they are eliminating their entire Model Master line, both enamel and acrylic. Supposedly Dullcote and Glosscote will remain available however all the changes they are making seem to be affecting the supply of the paints they are keeping.

Ken

 

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×