Dummy Locomotive PCB

So I could combine your board with an R2LC and have a dummy unit that smokes, lights, and couples?

John

Another great idea.  Do you ever sleep?

So is this to be completed boards for sale, bare boards for sale, or shared Gerber files?  

Bob

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have a couple of dummy locomotives to do, and given the costs and issues with some of the dummy locomotive boards, I though it would be nice to use an R2LC, I have a bunch of them hanging around, especially the slightly older R2LC-C07 versions.  Other than a reversed polarity on the lighting outputs, they're pretty much the same as the R2LC-C08 versions.  So, all I need is a convenient way to connect them to the dummy wiring.

Here's my solution.

The .01 caps provide a load for all the triacs on the R2LC so that LED usage is possible without added load components.  The PCB fit under the R2LC and provides convenient connection points for the inputs and outputs without adding to the overall footprint of the package.

I ordered a bunch of boards, we'll see how fast the Chinese can ship them.

Great idea John. So say a guy was upgrading a pair of F3's to ERR, and was going to do a wired tether to the dummy. This board and a R2LC would eliminate the tether? I'm guessing you program the dummy as a second engine on the Cab 1L and all of the lighting commands work via the programming instead of off of the AC commander?

Bob

PS- Sent you a PM about my lighting issues.

Correct guys, this is simply an interconnection board that allows you to simply connect to an R2LC for a dummy or an operating car if desired.  The only components are the capacitors to provide a load for the lighting, coupler, and smoke triacs to allow the use of LED's or other diode isolated outputs.

I know a lot of people, including me, have a few R2LC's laying around that could be put to use.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Correct guys, this is simply an interconnection board that allows you to simply connect to an R2LC for a dummy or an operating car if desired.  The only components are the capacitors to provide a load for the lighting, coupler, and smoke triacs to allow the use of LED's or other diode isolated outputs.

I know a lot of people, including me, have a few R2LC's laying around that could be put to use.

I'll purchase 3 from you. 

I'll do a post when I get the boards in, it'll be a couple of weeks I suspect.

I don't have R2LCs laying around but I would get some. I'm about to make a dummy unit out of an old Lionel RS3. I would love to have this for it.

Very nice John....I'll watch for your post.

Richard

I will be in for 3 kits John.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'll do a post when I get the boards in, it'll be a couple of weeks I suspect.

Looking forward to it.  I'm sure I can find more to put them in. 

It was a real simple project, the kind I like, I can knock them out over the lunch hour!

I just whacked out another one, the TAS EOB tach sensor replacement.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

It was a real simple project, the kind I like, I can knock them out over the lunch hour!

I just whacked out another one, the TAS EOB tach sensor replacement.

I just saw that.  I am adding an ERR, and chuffer to an MTH 30-1119-0-Southern_Pacific_Gs-4_Steam. it has no chuff switch.

Would you recommend I use this tach sensor kit, or just find a place to mount a reed switch, and magnet? 

Well, that's like asking the coyote what's for lunch in the chicken coup!   The reason I designed the Chuff-Generator is I got tired of screwing round with magnets and reed switches!   If you want four chuffs synchronized to the drivers, it's certainly easier to use the Chuff-Generator, especially if you have a Super-Chuffer as it provides the needed power.

This diagram is for a typical TMCC installation, the only addition is I included the automatic ground lights, but those are optional features.

          Click graphic to expand

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have a couple of dummy locomotives to do, and given the costs and issues with some of the dummy locomotive boards, I though it would be nice to use an R2LC, I have a bunch of them hanging around, especially the slightly older R2LC-C07 versions.  Other than a reversed polarity on the lighting outputs, they're pretty much the same as the R2LC-C08 versions.  So, all I need is a convenient way to connect them to the dummy wiring.

Here's my solution.

The .01 caps provide a load for all the triacs on the R2LC so that LED usage is possible without added load components.  The PCB fit under the R2LC and provides convenient connection points for the inputs and outputs without adding to the overall footprint of the package.

I ordered a bunch of boards, we'll see how fast the Chinese can ship them.

I have a dummy MTH Santa Fe F3 B unit that I would like tomado this to. Since I have only an A and B unit, it would be nice to equip the B unit with marker lights, smoke, and an operating coupler. Could this be done using this board or have I been dreaming?

Sure, that's what I had in mind.  Obviously, marker lights would have to be powered from either the headlight, taillight, or both, depending on how you want them to operate.  This is really just a connection board for the R2LC, so whatever you have on the R2LC, you have on this board, just a bit more convenient to connect.  Also, you have the load caps for all the triac outputs so that you can use any type of load external to the board.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Sure, that's what I had in mind.  Obviously, marker lights would have to be powered from either the headlight, taillight, or both, depending on how you want them to operate.  This is really just a connection board for the R2LC, so whatever you have on the R2LC, you have on this board, just a bit more convenient to connect.  Also, you have the load caps for all the triac outputs so that you can use any type of load external to the board.

Can't wait to wait my hands on some. 

I should probably prepare, and test all the old R2LC's I have laying around. Hopefully at least half of them work. 

I have a test board, but you can just open up a convenient locomotive and run through them and test the functions.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have a test board, but you can just open up a convenient locomotive and run through them and test the functions.

I saw that post with your test board.  Very nice setup you have there. 

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Sure, that's what I had in mind.  Obviously, marker lights would have to be powered from either the headlight, taillight, or both, depending on how you want them to operate.  This is really just a connection board for the R2LC, so whatever you have on the R2LC, you have on this board, just a bit more convenient to connect.  Also, you have the load caps for all the triac outputs so that you can use any type of load external to the board.

Jon, several years ago you worked on an MTH PRR shark AB set for me. With the Santa Fe F3 AB set, would I be better off having you slave the B unit to the A unit? Add smoke and light the interior and voila!  Any idea on the cost?

@George Mason posted:

Jon, several years ago you worked on an MTH PRR shark AB set for me. With the Santa Fe F3 AB set, would I be better off having you slave the B unit to the A unit? Add smoke and light the interior and voila!  Any idea on the cost?

Drop me an email and we'll talk.

The boards arrived, and I separated some.

Here's one built-up.

Here's what a kit of parts will look like.

OK...now that's a small capacitor! Fine point tweezers did the job.

.

Lookin' Good. The caps are optional, but needed if you have a non-resistive load on that output, they reliably fire the triac for stuff like LED lighting.  They don't affect anything being there otherwise, so I included them.

My technique for small SMT parts is to put a spot of solder on one pad, that will be on the right when I position the part.  I get the part aligned in my tweezers and then heat the spot of solder and position the part.  Once it's in place, I typically just put the tip of the tweezers on it and touch the soldered joint again to make sure the part is firmly against the board.  That's especially important for multi-pin parts.  Finally, I go around and tack down the other lead(s).

The trick when doing a more complex board is to rotate the board so it's aligned for easy positioning and soldering of the part.

Once you finish those boards, time to move on to a slightly more complex board and do your graduate work in SMT soldering.

Good point about the push down. I didn’t do that, but I can see how that can matter with chips with leads.

Even with resistors and caps, it makes them easier to bond to the board.  But it's really important with multi-lead chips.

I may need a couple John. I will let you know. Not sure what I want to do with my S2's yet.

So tell me how you guys have "extra" R2LC's just laying around.......

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

I may need a couple John. I will let you know. Not sure what I want to do with my S2's yet.

So tell me how you guys have "extra" R2LC's just laying around.......

Well, I don't have a lot of "extras", but I have them because I use them, and I was fortunate that I bought a bunch right before Lionel jacked the price to almost double!

John......I think your smart mother board is the real SMT soldering final exam. Your board pictured has more room.

Richard

I attempted a smart motherboard, my hands are just not steady enough to do that small a component. I am happy when the PCB is roomy as well as a loco upgrading so there is always room for everything.

@Rppoind posted:

John......I think your smart mother board is the real SMT soldering final exam. Your board pictured has more room.

Richard

Yep, that is probably the graduate course, a couple of those chips are pretty fine pitch as well.

@RSJB18 posted:

I may need a couple John. I will let you know. Not sure what I want to do with my S2's yet.

So tell me how you guys have "extra" R2LC's just laying around.......

Bob

I tend to stock spares for stuff.

John....My kits arrived today. The gold pin connectors  are a nice upgrade. Thanks again.

Richard

@Rppoind posted:

John....My kits arrived today. The gold pin connectors  are a nice upgrade. Thanks again.

Nothing but the best for the boys on OGR!

RSJB18  My situation is such that before Lionel jacked the prices up I grabbed a half dozen from the half price fall sale a few years ago and add an extra every few orders so I have spares.

John got mine on Saturday the look great, it will test my soldering skills.

Marty

Mine arrived Thursday John,  I will be trying your method of tweezer, on drop of solder trick and see if mine look more crisp and not cockeyed on the pads.

I don't get them perfectly straight all the time, but at least I get them in the area.

John,

  What are the specs on the caps?  I had a couple go into orbit when trying to place them on the board.   Also would soldering paste help positioning the caps on the board?

Thanks,

    Marty

They're .01uf 50V caps, bog standard 0603 sized parts.  Usually, the most important place to put them is the lighting outputs, that's where you'd likely have an LED.  The exact part I used is: Kemet C0603C103K4RAC7013.