Electrical Problems with Lionel Lion Chief On Fastrack

Some trains are simply more sensitive to electrical connectivity and while one train may run fine, another may not. Part of the problem with seasonal layouts is that each time you disconnect the track pieces, it can slightly bend the pins and create connectivity issues and that gets repeated (and worse) over time. In addition, since the track is not permanently laid down, it tends to flex, especially on carpet, and that creates more issues.

I would start by testing with a DVM all around the layout to make sure you are getting sufficient voltage to all sections of the track. I would then put a train on it and test it again, with the train at different spots on the layout. That should give you an idea of whether you have any voltage loss locations that are causing the UP to run sporadically and you can repair those areas.

Look at some of the many threads on this Forum about how to deal with FT connection issues and for specific ways to enhance  connectivity, such as this one ...  Need advice on fastrack connection issues | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com) 

Fastrack connectivity can vary over a period of time, even short periods like days.  As my layout grew and I added more track, sometimes the new sections would last for a couple days and then I would have issues.   Pushing down on the track would cause inconsistent voltage with my fingers or a train.   The pins in the track get looser over time and it makes things worse, faster.   I didn’t resolve the issue until I added extra feeds around the layout and did some track maintenance …cleaned it thoroughly, bent the center pins inwards, screwed track down where the surface was uneven, and also cleaned the wheels and pick ups on the engines.  

Thanks, I am in the process of soldering more jumper wires especially on shorter pieces, but my biggest problem right now is trying to test with a DVM. If I finish the connection, I basically get nothing or next to nothing on the meter anywhere. If I separate a section so the connection is not complete, I get full power on one side but nothing on the other rail and vice versa. It doesn't seem to matter where I disconnect either. 

That doesn't sound right. If track power is correctly applied to the layout and two pieces of FT track are connected with soldered wires center to center rail and outside rail to outside rail (it's easy to get them messed up), it's rare that there would not be any connectivity. 

I would go through the steps to solder the tabs underneath each FT piece and then go through the pin bending/straightening and rail squeezing steps, first.

I assume these are DC power packs. How is each connected to the layout ?  Are you using a FT terminal piece for each one ? Try disconnecting two of them and just run the track on one pack and see what happens. Then add one at a time and see if the problem persists. 

Yes, they are DC Power packs, scattered evenly throughout the layout. I will try one at a time and also double check all my solder. I have been known to do things backward before!!

This may be a total misconstruction, but these LionChief DC power packs can be plugged in so that polarity is reversed for one compared with another in circuit power pack, so I wonder if you could be having polarity problems as well?  The DC packs aren't polarized, but the outlets are .  Correct me if wrong.   If I am right, simply making sure each DC power pack is oriented in the same fashion with each outlet might alleviate any phasing problem.

Check for continuity between the center and outside rails with your meter. It sure acts like a short from having one supply with crossed wires. If you get continuity, split in half and try each separately. Keep splitting until you find it.

As an additional follow-up, try connecting all of the power packs to one electrical strip with the plugs oriented the same way.

Even though I still run track powered conventional and TMCC, I am finding that battery powered locos are so much less difficult to run. Also, I can take them anywhere and know they will operate well. The only locos I take to club meets now are battery powered.

@TNT69 posted:

Thanks, I am in the process of soldering more jumper wires especially on shorter pieces, but my biggest problem right now is trying to test with a DVM. If I finish the connection, I basically get nothing or next to nothing on the meter anywhere. If I separate a section so the connection is not complete, I get full power on one side but nothing on the other rail and vice versa. It doesn't seem to matter where I disconnect either.

Again lets start simple, Lionel Fastrack for whatever reason will develop dead spots. Its not that the pins are not touching, they probably are, its high resistance. Go online to MOUSER Electric and order: 571-6409231 their part number/ the MFG is 640923-1 these are the size of the contact blades on the bottom of the track. They will support 22-18 AWG with no issue on short runs. They are called TE Connectivity Terminals.

Simple is always better.

There is a tool by stakeon to crimp them. Best part is they snap into place. Order these and make jumper wires to avoid soldering.

@BOB WALKER posted:

Even though I still run track powered conventional and TMCC, I am finding that battery powered locos are so much less difficult to run. Also, I can take them anywhere and know they will operate well. The only locos I take to club meets now are battery powered.

Bob,

You and a few others are very adamant about batteries.  I highly encourage you to continue to make battery powered locomotives, use them, and keep reporting back to the rest of us how they're working out.  I agree that they're quite promising.

Several questions though that apply to the floor-runners and first timers:

Where can a newbie go to buy one?

Who offers starter sets?

How do the non-tinkerers among us, who aren't comfortable doing conversions, get rolling quickly without having to engineer a solution?

Mike

This is not the kind of thread title that Lionel likes to read.  Lion Chief and Fastrack are supposed to go together like peanut butter and jelly.

In your case, I think that you did some purchasing a tad out of order.  Lionel starts folks on the starter sets, which come with the puny little power packs that can run the original oval and perhaps an expansion pack or two.  After that, they expect you to step up to a real power supply.  Your 120+ feet of track with three DC power packs in my view simply works out to more than they were designed to do.

By the way, DC current is steady and can't possibly have phasing issues.

My advice is to clean everything that was put away for a year and then read some of the many threads here about selecting an AC power supply.

@Long Hair posted:

This is not the kind of thread title that Lionel likes to read.  Lion Chief and Fastrack are supposed to go together like peanut butter and jelly.

In your case, I think that you did some purchasing a tad out of order.  Lionel starts folks on the starter sets, which come with the puny little power packs that can run the original oval and perhaps an expansion pack or two.  After that, they expect you to step up to a real power supply.  Your 120+ feet of track with three DC power packs in my view simply works out to more than they were designed to do.

By the way, DC current is steady and can't possibly have phasing issues.

My advice is to clean everything that was put away for a year and then read some of the many threads here about selecting an AC power supply.

Well, it can have phasing issues,   It’s called a dead short; usually followed by an explosion, smoke fire, and a lot of cursing, lmao

@Long Hair posted:

This is not the kind of thread title that Lionel likes to read.  Lion Chief and Fastrack are supposed to go together like peanut butter and jelly.

In your case, I think that you did some purchasing a tad out of order.  Lionel starts folks on the starter sets, which come with the puny little power packs that can run the original oval and perhaps an expansion pack or two.  After that, they expect you to step up to a real power supply.  Your 120+ feet of track with three DC power packs in my view simply works out to more than they were designed to do.

By the way, DC current is steady and can't possibly have phasing issues.

My advice is to clean everything that was put away for a year and then read some of the many threads here about selecting an AC power supply.

The Lionell fast track does work. Well, the issue is the quality of the steel they use. I have had fast track switches develop dead spots.

In 2019, I obtained my first LionChief Plus. It ran fine on track power and then I converted it to battery power where it runs even better.

@BOB WALKER posted:

In 2019, I obtained my first LionChief Plus. It ran fine on track power and then I converted it to battery power where it runs even better.

Did you keep the LC electronics and just run them on batteries?

Yes, I kept the LC+ electronics in place and merely replaced the track power feed with a Li-Ion 12V battery. It fit inside the shell. I also added an on-off switch. Still running great today.

Well, I have spent the better part of the last week working on this layout, soldering most of the problem areas, disconnecting the soldered wires, double cleaning the track and rolling stock and  trying much of what was offered (thanks for all the input btw) and the #1 problem with all of that seemed to be a bad piece of 4.5" track that no matter if it was soldered or not was shorting out the entire layout. I was lucky enough that I was able to remove it with just a small change in the layout. I also found that one of the new 30" sections I ordered from Trainworld this year had center pins on either end that were broken off and I guess I missed it when I put them together so I ended up using the bad 4.5" pieces center pins and now all is good. EXCEPT, my full Polar Express train shorts the layout on a few of the curves. I can run it with only 1 passenger car and it's fine but with all 4, it has problems. Next job is bring the cars back up for another cleaning and check the connections on the bottom as well. I will attach some video when I get this done and show the full setup.     

Awhile ago, Lionel posted a Mike Reagan video addressing these issues w/ Fastrack.  What I have seen in continuity issues between track sections, and generally, I take a large plier and squeeze the joints.  Usually solves the problem without taking the sections apart.