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Having determined that the Milwaukee Road side of my hobby will be 3RS, I undertook to remove the claws from my MTH U30C.  I followed the wires from the couplers to the plug connectors, disconnected the plugs and removed the couplers.  Following reassembly, the engine is dead.  Period.  I will send the locomotive off for repair and be interested to find out what I did wrong.

Now, I am the proud owner of 2 brand new beautiful GP30s and would like to replace the claws with Kadees, however, I would like to have working locomotives when I get done.  In trying to trace the coupler wires, I get lost in the spaghetti and see no little plugs to un-plug.

Before I mess up these two gems, I'd like to get some expert advice on Electro-Coupler-ectomies from the experts.  Please help!

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Ron, thanks.  Being an "A Type" personality, I want everything to be PERFECT which guarantees that almost nothing ever gets done.  The idea had occurred to me but I was hoping for a more "A Type" solution.

I finally did get a locomotive Kadeed, a little MILW MTH SW-1.  Those engines are a favorite, they're so darned CUTE!  The only issue I have with them is that they're "RailKing" which means that I can't change out the traction tired wheelsets without major surgery.  I HATE traction tires for everything they do.

Anyway, I can now couple up to my MILW rib-sided waycar and a few other cars that I've Kadeed.  I've been Kadeeing my passenger equipment for several years and finally decided that my MILW road will be entirely Kadee.

Thanks, again, for your response and very sensible advice!  Now I have to see if Mr. Fitzhenry will troubleshoot my big GE...

Have you ever posted on how you kadeed your sw1? Took the claws off my sw have the kds and now wondering what to do? Being a type A myself I would have to buy three SWs to get one just ok. So as you know not a thing being done and here I sit thinking some old #7 seven would help but that darn sw1 would still not have couplers on in the morning..

Lee

Lee Herr posted:

Have you ever posted on how you kadeed your sw1? Took the claws off my sw have the kds and now wondering what to do? Being a type A myself I would have to buy three SWs to get one just ok. So as you know not a thing being done and here I sit thinking some old #7 seven would help but that darn sw1 would still not have couplers on in the morning..

Lee

Kadeeing the SW-1 was quite simple.  Once the trucks were de-clawed, I chose  and the truck casting protrusion was cut off, I had to find a shim to fill the gap between the truck casting and the Kadee gauge.  Turns out that the leftover faux column material from a Korber warehouse front kit was the perfect thickness.  Next, I had to determine which coupler to use, a traditional 740 or a shorty 743.

The Kadee 740 had half the draft gear hanging out over the claw's pivot-post access hole, therefore, I opted for the 743.  I cut the Korber shim to a snug fit in the pilot and glued both the coupler box top and the shim in place, mounted the coupler box temporarily as a drill guide, and head to the drill press.

Remarkably, the combined thicknesses of the pilot casting, shim and coupler box was 1/2 inch, exactly - the length of my 2-56 machine screws!  I drilled and tapped the entire conglomeration as a unit, then painted, weathered, and reinstalled the completed pilot.  I didn't try any fancy stuff, no fixed pilot, no fill the gap, just a Kadee.  Before checking my OGR mail, I made a couple of moves with the SW-1, a heavily weighted Atlas covered hopper and a rib-sided caboose.  To quote Del Griffith, "Very nice."

I used the Atlas covered hopper as an opportunity to use up a leftover Atlas version of a "Kadee".  I removed the coupler and draft gear from a 2R car that I bought in error for my 3 rail operation; I converted the car and retained the coupler.  There is no comparison, what-so-ever, between the Atlas coupler and the Kadee.  There's nothing like the original.  Rock on, Kadee!

 

Erie Mike posted:

This is new to me.  My concern is that I have a chance to purchase some  K- Line heavyweight Passenger cars.  They are approximately 18" in length.  The box # starts with  38- whatever.  Are these cars true o scale,  thanks, mike 

EM, The K-Line heavyweights are a little on the crude side but O Gauge is all about modifications.  Check your prototype Erie equipment for dimensions and compare.  18" in 1:1 equals 72 feet in O.

Once you've determined that the cars are suitable, post your own "topic" in the appropriate OGR ON-LINE FORUM (see menu tab, above).  To post a topic go to your profile page and click on the BIG BLUE BOX labeled "POST" which is directly to the right of your user name at the top of the page and fill in the blanks.  If I can do it, you can do it!

This is a great group of folks and a fantastic resource that you'll refer to endlessly as you grow in the hobby.  Would that all this had existed when we were kids!

Best wishes!

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