Electro Couplers Do Not Re-Couple

I find that my LionChief Plus Hudson works in a similar manner.  I'm not sure how much force it takes to close your coupler, but I find that just a little more speed than what I need with my other engines gets the job done.

 I’m assuming you can push the coil  coupler closed with your finger. Just won’t close when coupling. Some operators have had success taking the coupler apart and smoothing the rough edges so it works smoother. Much of the newer Lionel and MTH rolling stock roll very easy. With 3 rail couplers you often end up chasing the cars down the track trying to close the knuckles.  Uncoupling just the cars you will probably have the same issue. You can try weighting the cars or putting a couple of Atlas die cast hoppers in the consist.

My first step with a coupler that won't close (or open) is go get this Teflon (Polytetrafluoroethylene PTFE) powder and give the coupler a little puff of it. Sorry I don't know the brand name, I moved EVERYTHING thing around in the work/train room and now I can barely find a screwdriver. Labelle??? Probably 20 different Chinese brands on eBay now.

Then when that doesn't work, I know I gots me a real problem on my hands.

While lub will sometimes help, I've found that the "silver bullet" for electrocouplers is to disassemble them and smooth all the mating surfaces.  Reassemble with a new rivet and use some dry lubricant, and they'll couple MUCH easier.  The smoother the latching and sliding surfaces are, the easier they'll couple.

Since I am new at this, my skills are not yet up to disassembling couplers.  For this and other modifications, I plan to practice on a cheap freight car before I try a locomotive.  Plus the locos are still on warranty.

Without disassembling the couplers, I took a utility knife and scraped the black paint off the tops and bottoms of the "triggers" - not sure of the right term but it is the middle piece of the coupler that triggers the coupler to close when it is pressed, silver color below.  Then I sprayed with a Teflon lubricant.  Picture below.

This worked well for the LC+ Hudson and the front coupler of the Legacy C420.  But on closer look, the rear coupler of the C420 is slightly misaligned.  The freight car coupler usually hits the outermost knuckle (if that is the right term) and closes the C420 rear coupler without engaging the freight car coupler.  I will tinker with the C420 rear coupler without disassembling it.  Any suggestions?

For now I run in reverse (long hood forward) when remotely coupling.

BTW, what does an Atlas die cast hopper do differently from Lionel freight cars?  Is it just extra weight?

Thanks.  Great group here!